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AMD skins ??

Started by 69chargerR/T, December 26, 2009, 11:10:27 PM

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69chargerR/T

Has anyone seen this, AMD quarter panel skins :shruggy: I don't see them listed on there site?? Do you guys think these would be good for guys like me that can't afford the $$ for full panels.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-1969-Dodge-Charger-Quarter-Panel-Skin-PAIR-NEW-AMD_W0QQitemZ200417106050QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2ea9ca5882

Daytona R/T SE

Save up and buy the full panels.

You've got to decide which you would rather pay for:

The extra $$$ for the full panels...

or the extra welding, grinding, filler work and block sanding required to disguise the

six foot long seam you're going to have when you install the skins.


G-man

Daytona R/T SE really left you with one option considering.

Full pannels.  :yesnod:

elacruze

 :iagree:

If you can't afford the full panels, may as well just patch in with sheet metal and spend the time working it in; not much less work than the half panel anyway. I went with full panels and I couldn't be happier with them.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

superbirdtom

lord please buy the whole pnel and not the skins you will NOT save any money  In fact you will spend more and your car will be worth less with the quarter skins.    I am waiting for 70 bee whole panels  and I will be a happy man.

AutoRust

My  :Twocents:

If the car doesnt "need" full quarters, why put them in? Skins are fine if you just need to fix around the wheel lip, or the lower quarters. Some guys have a full body shop at there disposal, and all the skills and tools needed to do this major surgery. Some guys live in a condo with nothing but a parking spot and a checkbook.

Good luck.

Dave

:cheers:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

superbirdtom

If you just have a few rust holes  just bang em in and use autobody glue to fill. it will last quite a few years,  for those on a budget.

69bronzeT5

Quote from: superbirdtom on December 27, 2009, 10:58:33 PM
I am waiting for 70 bee whole panels  and I will be a happy man.

:yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

superbirdtom

don't taunt me :hah:   My bee is so crispy that I need full quarters  it is a post car and was previously wrecked and someone hacked in a quarter  through the sail panel. you can still see that the outer wheelhouse is smashed in when you look in the trunk.  I actually need a trunk floor too. I parted out a 70 bee in 1977 and still have the sixpack dash with the vin and had the matching 18 spline tranny but some bastard stole it 4 months ago out of my garage.  :brickwall:

                                    it was an orange sixpack 4 speed console bucket seat ram air hood car.   at least I managed to grab the fenders doors hood ram setup the front disc brake setup the decklid and other goodies.  it has the 8 track with 4 way speaker switch on dash. I might clone it someday  a very cool car indeed

Scaregrabber

The world doesn't need another 69 Charger R/T with patched together quarters. Lets hope you use the full panels on it and fix it correctly.


roger440

My charger has the repair panels  ::)

Its all i could get when i was doing mine. If the AMD stuff was double the price i would still but it for the grief it would save me. I dont even want to think about the hours that went into getting my 1/4's straight with thoses repair panels!

I thought long and hard about ripping them off and replacing with AMD.
1969 Dodge Charger RT/SE
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner - SOLD
2017 HSV Maloo
2003 Holden SS Ute
1970 Triumph 2000 Estate, fitted Rover V8
1961 Standard Atlas
1980 Triumph Dolomite Sprint
1974 Triumph Stag
2003 Subaru Forester

oldgold69

 i have patch panels. but when i heard they were going to make full quarters  i decided to wait till i can afford them . sure your taking more of the original metal off the car but seams will all be in the right spots  with no big filler patch in the middle of the fender  and what about the patch line in the trunk  i think its worth the wait

green69rt

I'm still debating which to use, skins or full quarters.  AMD has both and Adeals will save you a few bucks either way.  I intended to go with skins from AMD.  My thought process is that folks have used skins for years (good or bad) and it worked out.  Lots of high value cars out there with quarter skins on because no full quarters were available or were too expensive.  I still haven't made a final call.  The long (6 foot) seam that is involved with a skin is a problem but leading in the quarter seam on a full quarter is also a problem ( I personally don't want to fool around with the stuff).  I watch the discussion on this site a lot to see what other folks are doing.  Good luck!!

69chargerR/T

If the AMD skins are as good as the full panels they shouldn't need all the work the older skins needed. From what I have read the other brands of skins didn't fit well, the stamping wasn't good,the body lines not good, and they were wavy and needed a lot of blocking the get strait. Sure the full panels are great and may be easier to install, and probably the best way to go. I was just thinking that $550.00 a pair vs $1400.00 a pair is a lot of $$ to save for me !!! I would be installing these myself so if it takes me longer to install that's ok with me.   If the panels are as good as the full ones the extra work will just be at the long seam to weld and fill :shruggy: Am I thinking wrong here :shruggy:

Charger-Bodie

Do you plan to finish out the seam on the back side of the panel? Because that is very grueling work. Ive done it enough times for that alone to be enough reasone to use the full panel instead of the skin. Plus eventually the weld WILL show up . It may be 20 years from now but a weld that long ,where it needs to be is a handicap.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

69chargerR/T

Quote from: 1HotDaytona on January 01, 2010, 12:55:46 PM
Do you plan to finish out the seam on the back side of the panel? Because that is very grueling work. Ive done it enough times for that alone to be enough reasone to use the full panel instead of the skin. Plus eventually the weld WILL show up . It may be 20 years from now but a weld that long ,where it needs to be is a handicap.

I didn't even think about finishing the seam on the inside :shruggy: Is it necessary to finish the seam on the inside ? I'm an auto tech not a bodyman, but I think I can do the panels myself. Well I have to do them myself I do not have the $$ to have someone do them. What happens if you don't finish the seam on the inside, I was going have the seam at top edge of the quarter, just like I have seen pros do when they put skins on.  That way you can't see the seam inside the trunk, unless you stick your head in there and look up. I was just going to under coat the the panel and seam on the inside. I don't plan on my car being a show car, its going to be a driver :2thumbs:

roger440

You dont have to finish the inside off, but i wish i had, or rather i wish the full panels were available when i did it. It will always be visible even though i disguised it a bit with the sound deadner that i sprayed on..

If you have unlimited time available then hey, carry on. My life is too short to do that again. I had whole weeks of time in my 1/4's.

1969 Dodge Charger RT/SE
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner - SOLD
2017 HSV Maloo
2003 Holden SS Ute
1970 Triumph 2000 Estate, fitted Rover V8
1961 Standard Atlas
1980 Triumph Dolomite Sprint
1974 Triumph Stag
2003 Subaru Forester

elacruze

Quote from: roger440 on January 02, 2010, 05:26:31 AM
You dont have to finish the inside off, but i wish i had, or rather i wish the full panels were available when i did it. It will always be visible even though i disguised it a bit with the sound deadner that i sprayed on..

If you have unlimited time available then hey, carry on. My life is too short to do that again. I had whole weeks of time in my 1/4's.



1961 Atlas?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

superbirdtom

Quote from: 69chargerR/T on January 01, 2010, 11:49:17 AM
If the AMD skins are as good as the full panels they shouldn't need all the work the older skins needed. From what I have read the other brands of skins didn't fit well, the stamping wasn't good,the body lines not good, and they were wavy and needed a lot of blocking the get strait. Sure the full panels are great and may be easier to install, and probably the best way to go. I was just thinking that $550.00 a pair vs $1400.00 a pair is a lot of $$ to save for me !!! I would be installing these myself so if it takes me longer to install that's ok with me.   If the panels are as good as the full ones the extra work will just be at the long seam to weld and fill :shruggy: Am I thinking wrong here :shruggy:
>>>> why don't you post some real good pics for people to look at maybe the best and cheapest think to do until you have the money to let a pro do it is glue and bondoerup.   my buddy spent 2 weeks on building this deck on his home himself with the neighbor kid for grunt .   He was so proud of his handywork and he saved sooooo much money because he wasn't going to pay a real carpenter to come do it .  hell its just a deck!.  so finally i went out to look at it . It was a mess  one of the worst decks Ive ever seen   but he was just beeming full of pride :icon_smile_cool:   It did nothing to raise the value of the house, in fact it lowered the value .   just like if you do a crappy amateur job of your quarters it won't increase the value of your car. I am a glue king an  d could have both quarter skins drilled and cut off in a day . then mount and glue the skins in in another 2 days basically its a 40 hour job to get those thingsready for paint.its up to you if you want to do this to learn and have a hands on experience that is good.

69chargerR/T

  

superbirdtom,how much do you charge an hour,if you can do both skins in 40 hours how much would that cost. Its probably more $$ than I can afford.  That's why I need to do this myself :2thumbs:




superbirdtom

AllI am saying is that maybe you have time to do this on the weekends or after work,   but your time is worth something. If you have never done anything like this , you might really regret it . but sometimes if your a handy guy and really do some research and get good advise it will be a rewarding experience of doing it yourself. It might turn out great and then it might not. our shop charges 55 dollars an hour  so to do the skins would be around a grand. to get them welded on then maybe another grand to get them finished and painted. In todays world thats cheap!.  doing quarter skins for somebody that has never done them can be a pain in the ass. jsut be patient because you have your work cut out for you.

As a body shop we would never again do quarter skins, something always comes back on them.  more power to you for giving it a go.

ram68

Hi I am currently in the process of using the amd skins.  They are pretty good, however they still need work to be perfectly straight.  The areas above the wheel opening and area in front of the side marker lights (68 skins) need a work as they are slightly wavy.  Looks like I'm going to need about 2-3mm of filler. I don't think this is bad at all.  So far I've only done the drivers side. I butt welded in above the top of the quarter with no warping. On the side I came down in front of the side marker light and got slight warping in this area.  I'm debating if I'll just use the whole quarter skin on the passenger side.  My reason for going with the skins was my metal was good on the top of the quarter.  I know with the full skins there is less welding, but I didn't want to get into the factory seams along the package tray ,trunk gutter area, and seams near the rear bumper where it does seem to bequite intracite.  I did research on the forum and it seems that no matter what 1/4's you use they all need some work. The weld area has been ground down an filled with kevlar reinforced filler.

69chargerR/T

Ram68, thanks for the reply and the info :2thumbs: I think the panels look great, you did a great job :2thumbs: I think this may be the way I will go also.   If you have any more pics post them up, and keep us informed on your progress and how you like the skins :2thumbs:

200MPH

what if person does not need the whole skin?
Charger

elitecustombody

then don't buy anything :shruggy:


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

200MPH

Quote from: 200MPH on January 03, 2010, 03:10:43 PM
what if person does not need the whole skin?

LOl I meant i just need small  patches
Charger

superbirdtom

theirs places that make patch panels. or just order the skin and use what you need

Mike DC

If I needed multiple patches then I would order a larger skin and cut it up.  Either than or make them from scratch.  The smaller patches being commercially sold usually aren't very good and the price of buying & shipping them will add up to as much as buying a good larger skin.


elitecustombody

Quote from: 200MPH on January 03, 2010, 04:38:47 PM
Quote from: 200MPH on January 03, 2010, 03:10:43 PM
what if person does not need the whole skin?

LOl I meant i just need small  patches

AMD makes lower patches,fit nice ,or as it was mentioned, buy skins and cut them for smaller patches


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan

Troy

The AMD lower patches are made on the same tooling as the full quarters and are very nice.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

200MPH

Charger

Mike DC

Cool, didn't know AMD made patches yet.


Troy

Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

Captain D

I'm responding late; been out for a awhile - But yeah, the full quarters are nice and a lot of body shops that I've talked to in my area keep pressing that they would rather do a full quarter than the skins. However, like any hobby today, you do what you can afford...Restoring an ol' Mopar B-body isn't always cheap...

When I was doing my quarters, I shopped round' and the full quarters were like roughly $2,000 (not including the labor that then has to be put into the work ahead) vs. the skins (GoodMark at the time) were only $399 + freight shipping roughly another $100 so at approximately $1,500 difference. I didn't have the $$ to go w/ the full quarters so I pretty much had no choice but to go w/ the skins. The body shop did a remarkable job and they turned out great. I've even talked w/ Smith Bro. Restoration for guidance/suggestions and viewed some of their completed rides and when considering the savings based on what I could have afford at the time, I'm happy w/ the decision. So, again, the full quarters are certainly nice to have (and if I had the cash I would have liked to have gone w/ them), but I'm just saying that the skins aren't necessarily a bad route to go neither...

Sorry for chiming in kinda late  ;)
Aaron

fireguyfire

Hey guys; just getting started on a '68 project, and am debating the same thing; full quarters vs. skins. I have hung skins before, so I can do it no problem, but I am wondering if someone could give a brief description on how to replace the full quarter? Is it alot more work, and do you get into the structure at all? I gotta think its better to have no seam (therfore less bondo). Opinions?
'66 Coronet 500
'68 Charger
'69 Sweptline Adventurer pickup
'56 Dodge Regent

SFRT

well. having just done it. i will vote for full quarters. the leading part was no big deal at all.
Always Drive Responsibly



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fireguyfire

Can you give me a brief description of how the process of removing old full quarters and fastening new ones?
'66 Coronet 500
'68 Charger
'69 Sweptline Adventurer pickup
'56 Dodge Regent


fireguyfire

For the guys that have installed full amd quarters; how good did they fit? How much monkeying (filling) did they need to get them straight after hanging them?
'66 Coronet 500
'68 Charger
'69 Sweptline Adventurer pickup
'56 Dodge Regent

SFRT

fit great, very little fiddling required.guy at AMD said main issue is wheelwells fitting,if you have original wheelwells, keep them if possible.repair them. replacement wheelwells are the hassle.
Always Drive Responsibly



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fireguyfire

Even the AMD outers are a problem? I think I'm going to have to replace the outers as well as the quarters.
'66 Coronet 500
'68 Charger
'69 Sweptline Adventurer pickup
'56 Dodge Regent

superbirdtom

just use a piece of the outer wheelwells from amd or another supplier for a patch on the factory rusted part. its a torment to replace an entire outer wheelwell.

SFRT

yes. AMD says the main issue is always the wheelwells fitting if you remove the originals. Patch your originals carefully.
Always Drive Responsibly



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Patronus

This is my first time installing AMD metal. Two quarters, valence, corners. ('69) The quarters will need some work to make real nice. The sail panel has some wripples and the 'here and theres....'  Its nice to have something available. Im glad I did the full panels, just didn't want to have a 6' weld. I have heard horror stories about the valence corners yet I was impressed! I've only done one side but the fit is right on.
- got into the passenger side, quarter will need +1/8 across top of door and the corner @ dutchmen/sail will need to be totally redone. 6' weld....hmmm :scratchchin:
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

green69rt

Quote from: SFRT on February 13, 2010, 03:15:39 PM
yes. AMD says the main issue is always the wheelwells fitting if you remove the originals. Patch your originals carefully.

I just did my outer wheel wells.  One used AMD and one used a well from Sherman(long story).  I recommend the AMD. the Sherman was not even flat across the mounting flange to the inner well and required considerable modification to fit right.  As for difficulty,  I thought it was relatively easy if you don't insist on splitting the flange where it mounts to the inner well, inner quarter panel and the inner trunk supports.  I did some measurements to see if was even close on the fitup to the quarter panel and the AMD was right on and the Sherman well will need about a 1/4" tweak.  Maybe I was lucky.  I did patches on my inner wells and it was a lot of work and can be a big fitup problem, lots of compound curves.  Mine took a lot of time.

superbirdtom

If you want to replace the whole outer wheelwell as you did,  yeah getting it behind the overlapping metal is a pain.  Most of the time it is a rust issue not from damage.  all in all to get the right curves contour on the replaced outer wheelhouse for the quarter to fit well to it so it can be spot welded or whatever is a challenge for some. so anyone attempting it just know  they don't just fit and you will have some tweaking to do  just the way it is.

green69rt

Quote from: superbirdtom on February 15, 2010, 11:30:04 AM
If you want to replace the whole outer wheelwell as you did,  yeah getting it behind the overlapping metal is a pain.  Most of the time it is a rust issue not from damage.  all in all to get the right curves contour on the replaced outer wheelhouse for the quarter to fit well to it so it can be spot welded or whatever is a challenge for some. so anyone attempting it just know  they don't just fit and you will have some tweaking to do  just the way it is.

I agree, sometimes you just luck out and sometimes not.  Seems that all body work is that way.  Get the best parts you can, listen to the posts on this site (and others) then go for it. Tweaking seems to be part of life for those doing the metal work themselves.  When I started my project I actually thought that everything would just flange up and all I had to do was weld it in place and go (innocent me!!)

farmerjon

If all I need is the 6" or so behind the rear wheels and a few inchs high is there any place that makes a patch for a 74 charger?  help

TXcharger70

how much of the sail panel Does the full quarter panel include? Or does it just go on the outside of the sail?

Troy

Quote from: TXcharger70 on February 16, 2010, 12:03:07 AM
how much of the sail panel Does the full quarter panel include? Or does it just go on the outside of the sail?
It goes to the roof seam. Here's an original so you can see where it's at:



Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

Captain D

When welding, in this case - new skins on - my bodyman used a crimping tool and welded a spot about 2'' inches all along the new skins, took out the pins that held the skins in place, welded the areas where the pins were, then grinded down the high points in the welds. Do you guys feel as if those welds (a weld at every 2'' inches) is pretty strong?
Thank you,
Aaron

SFRT

thats basically how they where originally made.
Always Drive Responsibly



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Lennard

Can anybody tell me if AMD makes inner sail panels? I can not find them on their website.
If they do make them, please give me the part number so I can order them.
Thanks in advance, Lennard

Troy

Quote from: Lennard on February 19, 2010, 09:27:55 PM
Can anybody tell me if AMD makes inner sail panels? I can not find them on their website.
If they do make them, please give me the part number so I can order them.
Thanks in advance, Lennard

The sail panel is part of the full quarter. I don't believe they sell them separately.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.


Patronus

Quote from: Lennard on February 19, 2010, 09:27:55 PM
Can anybody tell me if AMD makes inner sail panels? I can not find them on their website.
If they do make them, please give me the part number so I can order them.
Thanks in advance, Lennard

I have that particular region of my old quarter in great shape if you need a patch...
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

tylerk

Last time I talked with them they weren't going to be doing just the sail panels.

Lennard

Thanks for the replies guys, I don't really know if I need them but maybe one of you guys can tell...


Patronus

tough to weld to rust, that hole may end up to be twice that size, but you can save it with 2-3 small pieces...
'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

Captain D

Thank you for the response - another odd question here - I've changed body shops since then, but when my car was at the original shop, I told the body man that I want small patch pieces, that I made and measured, to be welded behind a few small holes here and there around the tail-light panel. When I showed up at the shop, the SOB disregarded the small patch pieces and simply fiberglassed over them and said that once he puts seam sealer behind it, it'll be fine since the car is just a daily driver.

I didn't appreciate that and it was not what I had asked for. To make a long story short, I had enough of his BS and took the car since then. But now my question is this - Just how durable is the fiberglass over these small holes (they're not very big by any stretch - but I just like metal behind everything where it should be metal)?

Thank you for your replies and opinions...
Aaron