DodgeCharger.com Forum
January 27, 2023, 02:23:26 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Please remember: this is the place to discuss Chargers - NOT the place to discuss politics. Political posts will be locked or deleted at the Moderator's discretion.
 
   Home   Help Calendar Login Register Chat  
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Vinyl top - Yes or no?  (Read 5428 times)
Silver R/T
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9,922


1968 Dodge Charger R/T


« Reply #25 on: October 05, 2016, 10:21:28 AM »

I have rust issues on my 68 R/T, mostly cause of vinyl top which held in moisture in the window corner and caused rust.
I will not be putting it back on. I really love Charger roof line without vinyl top, looks like exotic car. Vinyl top belongs on grandmas Chrysler or Cadillacs imo.
Logged

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722
CRW-FK5
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 305



« Reply #26 on: October 05, 2016, 10:29:18 AM »

I have rust issues on my 68 R/T, mostly cause of vinyl top which held in moisture in the window corner and caused rust.
I will not be putting it back on. I really love Charger roof line without vinyl top, looks like exotic car. Vinyl top belongs on grandmas Chrysler or Cadillacs imo.
I don't really see the rust issue as a concern anymore with these cars, as they simply aren't exposed long enough to the harsh or wet conditions for it to even be a factor.  If you're restoring a car you really should be fine, from a rust standpoint, going with a vinyl top.  To me it's not even part of the equation.
Logged
Lennard
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,757


Living the dream.


« Reply #27 on: October 05, 2016, 01:00:40 PM »

I have rust issues on my 68 R/T, mostly cause of vinyl top which held in moisture in the window corner and caused rust.
I will not be putting it back on. I really love Charger roof line without vinyl top, looks like exotic car. Vinyl top belongs on grandmas Chrysler or Cadillacs imo.
I don't really see the rust issue as a concern anymore with these cars, as they simply aren't exposed long enough to the harsh or wet conditions for it to even be a factor.  If you're restoring a car you really should be fine, from a rust standpoint, going with a vinyl top.  To me it's not even part of the equation.

For the people who don't just use their car for the local show and shine, (like myself) it is part of the equation. Some people use a car what it was built for in the first place, a daily driver.
Logged
Laowho
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 429



« Reply #28 on: October 05, 2016, 02:19:53 PM »


I'm bummed that if I wanna leave it off we have to chuck the original chrome. Can't find it, but there was an AZ storage car that had an awful roof under vinyl after skinning. Guess a lot depended upon pre-top prep? And just cuz it's one of the better lookin vinyl top cars, still doesn't mean it doesn't look better w/o it. Oddly enuf, they did a survey here and it was pretty much split.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=68050.0

Double-darned. Wish it never got started.
Logged
Lennard
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,757


Living the dream.


« Reply #29 on: October 05, 2016, 03:41:55 PM »

Why do you have to delete the chrome?  It still fits without the vinyl top.
Logged
Laowho
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 429



« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2016, 03:56:37 PM »

I read elsewhere here that itsa different drip rail for hard top. Is this wrong? Hard to imagine it remaining so raised. I'll have a better look.

There's this aftermarket

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-68-69-70-Dodge-Charger-Drip-Rail-Moulding-Molding-Trim-Set-Roof-Edge-NEW-/290631314837

Description says, "NOTE: Originally there were two different OEM part numbers for sets of this trim with and without the vinyl top. These reproduction moldings are built to specs in between the original two OEM sets in order to fit applications both with and without a vinyl top."
Logged
Lennard
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,757


Living the dream.


« Reply #31 on: October 05, 2016, 04:32:46 PM »

All the drip rail moldings are the same for vinyl and non vinyl tops. I know several non vinyl top 68 and 69 chargers with the check mark  moldings ( lower  sail panel) in place.
Logged
Patronus
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,662



« Reply #32 on: October 05, 2016, 09:21:41 PM »

No
Logged

'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE
JR
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,645



« Reply #33 on: October 06, 2016, 07:11:31 AM »

I like painted roofs with the vinyl belt trim installed. I think it complements the lines nicely.
Logged

70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green
CRW-FK5
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 305



« Reply #34 on: October 06, 2016, 06:00:24 PM »

 
I have rust issues on my 68 R/T, mostly cause of vinyl top which held in moisture in the window corner and caused rust.
I will not be putting it back on. I really love Charger roof line without vinyl top, looks like exotic car. Vinyl top belongs on grandmas Chrysler or Cadillacs imo.
I don't really see the rust issue as a concern anymore with these cars, as they simply aren't exposed long enough to the harsh or wet conditions for it to even be a factor.  If you're restoring a car you really should be fine, from a rust standpoint, going with a vinyl top.  To me it's not even part of the equation.

For the people who don't just use their car for the local show and shine, (like myself) it is part of the equation. Some people use a car what it was built for in the first place, a daily driver.
2thumbs
Logged
Nacho-RT74
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19,561


Tired of everything


« Reply #35 on: October 08, 2016, 09:13:09 AM »

the problem with rusted under vinyl is mostly because assembly plants saved $$$ on paint on Vinyl top cars.

I'm a vinyl top lover, so I'm byassed. Go for it after a good primming ( epoxy if posible ) and paint job on area.
Logged

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
Kern Dog
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8,353



« Reply #36 on: October 11, 2016, 11:57:14 AM »

Both my 68 and 69 Charger originally had a vinyl top. They both won't get them back after the resto.  I don't think a vinyl top looks good and I always wonder what is hiding under it... rust? bondo?

I think they can be a nice addition to certain cars but not all. I like GTX models with them, Satellites an Sport Satellites. Charger SE models, maybe 318 or 383 cars. For the most part, I like them on the cars that were not specifically the top performance versions.

My 70 had one but I scraped it off before bodywork began. I see no reason to ever apply one to the car again.
Logged
cdr
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,258


Pattison Texas


« Reply #37 on: October 11, 2016, 12:38:08 PM »

I have rust issues on my 68 R/T, mostly cause of vinyl top which held in moisture in the window corner and caused rust.
I will not be putting it back on. I really love Charger roof line without vinyl top, looks like exotic car. Vinyl top belongs on grandmas Chrysler or Cadillacs imo.
I don't really see the rust issue as a concern anymore with these cars, as they simply aren't exposed long enough to the harsh or wet conditions for it to even be a factor.  If you're restoring a car you really should be fine, from a rust standpoint, going with a vinyl top.  To me it's not even part of the equation.

For the people who don't just use their car for the local show and shine, (like myself) it is part of the equation. Some people use a car what it was built for in the first place, a daily driver.


                                    Me too  iagree
Logged

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr
Dreamcar
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 883



« Reply #38 on: October 13, 2016, 06:03:37 PM »

Even though I'm far from having to make the decision (sheet metal is still being replaced), I sometimes wonder what to do with mine...its a numbers 383, Q5 turquoise with white vinyl top and white interior, stainless rocker moldings and wheel moldings. My wife thinks I should put one back on because like another poster said, without it, that's a lot of (i.e. 18ft) of primary color, which in my case is turquoise.

The one thing that seems to bother me is that if I go completely stock with the color and vinyl, only magnum 500 style wheels would look good if I want to go with 17s or 18s. However, I'm not sure I want magnum style wheels. However, without the white top, I feel I can have any wheels and it'll look good.
Logged

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
Laowho
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 429



« Reply #39 on: October 14, 2016, 06:36:41 AM »


"You had me at wife." Just sayin. You're probably gonna stop there. In our case, we'll be painting the whole car anyway and will have several months to decide, if you can call it that.
Logged
krigel
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 158


« Reply #40 on: October 14, 2016, 06:54:57 AM »

I'm going to paint the whole thing and fill the holes in. If I have to re drill them at some point to put the trim back on, I will. It's not tough to drill through paint if you are careful. I don't think removing the top is going to make that much of a difference in value. It's not a hemi car...it's a 383. Putting the top back on is easy enough later.
Logged
Troy
Administrator
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 11,141



« Reply #41 on: October 14, 2016, 08:47:52 AM »

Even though I'm far from having to make the decision (sheet metal is still being replaced), I sometimes wonder what to do with mine...its a numbers 383, Q5 turquoise with white vinyl top and white interior, stainless rocker moldings and wheel moldings. My wife thinks I should put one back on because like another poster said, without it, that's a lot of (i.e. 18ft) of primary color, which in my case is turquoise.

The one thing that seems to bother me is that if I go completely stock with the color and vinyl, only magnum 500 style wheels would look good if I want to go with 17s or 18s. However, I'm not sure I want magnum style wheels. However, without the white top, I feel I can have any wheels and it'll look good.
With that color definitely go with the white top and interior! Of course I'm partial. Will it look as "muscle" as another color without the top? No. But I know a guy with a light yellow 69 with a white top and interior. I call it the "grandma car" - but it's an original Hemi 4-speed so look out! I do like white tops. Particularly on darker colors. They may not scream "performance" but these cars look pretty awesome standing still. Performance is all about what they can do - not how they look. I've seen a ton of cars that look fast but are very tame (my old yellow Barracuda with the 150k mile 318 with A/C and auto trans was one).

Troy
Logged

Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.
Dreamcar
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 883



« Reply #42 on: October 20, 2016, 10:45:49 AM »

Even though I'm far from having to make the decision (sheet metal is still being replaced), I sometimes wonder what to do with mine...its a numbers 383, Q5 turquoise with white vinyl top and white interior, stainless rocker moldings and wheel moldings. My wife thinks I should put one back on because like another poster said, without it, that's a lot of (i.e. 18ft) of primary color, which in my case is turquoise.

The one thing that seems to bother me is that if I go completely stock with the color and vinyl, only magnum 500 style wheels would look good if I want to go with 17s or 18s. However, I'm not sure I want magnum style wheels. However, without the white top, I feel I can have any wheels and it'll look good.
With that color definitely go with the white top and interior! Of course I'm partial. Will it look as "muscle" as another color without the top? No. But I know a guy with a light yellow 69 with a white top and interior. I call it the "grandma car" - but it's an original Hemi 4-speed so look out! I do like white tops. Particularly on darker colors. They may not scream "performance" but these cars look pretty awesome standing still. Performance is all about what they can do - not how they look. I've seen a ton of cars that look fast but are very tame (my old yellow Barracuda with the 150k mile 318 with A/C and auto trans was one).

Troy


You make an excellent point Troy. I'm likely going to put it back on. If my numbers engine block checks out as rebuildable, then I will likely stick with the tag and have the white top. The wheel choice will just be a little more limited as far as finding something that I think works together.
Logged

"And another thing, when I gun the motor, I want people to think the world is coming to an end." - Homer Simpson

1969 Charger, 383, Q5/V1W, A35, H51, N88,  numbers match (under restoration)
Laowho
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 429



« Reply #43 on: October 21, 2016, 02:40:35 PM »


We have some 906 heads for engine bay correct, and the original jack, so might go with a black top change-up if it goes that far. (Black dash helps.)  shruggy
Logged
Pages: 1 [2]  All   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.095 seconds with 17 queries.