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Author Topic: How long did your expensive repro battery last and what did you replace it with?  (Read 10568 times)
1969chargerrtse
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« on: October 30, 2010, 07:24:42 AM »

I've only had my car for 3 years and the repro battery is starting to get weak. I'm torn on throwing in a sears Die Hard, or doing what Chris did by gutting out the shell and putting a smaller battery inside?
What are your thoughts and what did you do?
I don't want to spend another 300+ for this type of battery.

P.S Hey Chris, can you post your link on how you did the battery in a a battery thing?


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mauve66
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2010, 08:39:55 AM »

i've seen pics of people using the repo housing to slide over the autozone battery but haven't seen it in person.
read somewhere that you could buy just the housing so you wouldn't have to cut open a new battery for it but someone on here said you can't buy the housing any more
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2010, 08:52:49 AM »

It's just a car Battery...Don't sweat the small details.  Twocents
Get a new one.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2010, 09:02:52 AM »

It's just a car Battery...Don't sweat the small details.  Twocents
Get a new one.
It's those small details that make the car stand out, and people go "wow" when I lift the hood, that means something to me.  Anyone can go to a parts store and throw in a battery, but one of the things that stood out about the engine compartment was the original looking battery and cables.  I don't mind spending big bucks if I get 7 years out of it like a Die Hard, but 3?
Also, " get a new one".  A new what?  Expensive original type that doesn't last long for big bucks in a hard economy, or just some cheap battery and lose the total original look?
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2010, 09:03:39 AM »

i've seen pics of people using the repo housing to slide over the autozone battery but haven't seen it in person.
read somewhere that you could buy just the housing so you wouldn't have to cut open a new battery for it but someone on here said you can't buy the housing any more
The top plate type, or a whole battery box?
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ACUDANUT
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« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2010, 09:09:21 AM »

It's just a car Battery...Don't sweat the small details.  Twocents
Get a new one.
It's those small details that make the car stand out, and people go "wow" when I lift the hood, that means something to me.  Anyone can go to a parts store and throw in a battery, but one of the things that stood out about the engine compartment was the original looking battery and cables.  I don't mind spending big bucks if I get 7 years out of it like a Die Hard, but 3?
Also, " get a new one".  A new what?  Expensive original type that doesn't last long for big bucks in a hard economy, or just some cheap battery and lose the total original look?
IMO a Battery does not "lose the Look"....Whatever floats your boat.
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pandamarie
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« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2010, 09:44:50 AM »

I have a few repo battery boxes that another battery could be put inside and still look original, but they are for 6 volt tar top batteries. Nobody has ever questioned it even at a concourse. They run about 75 last time I bought one. Someone should have one for the Mopars, I just havent found it yet.
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Ghoste
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« Reply #7 on: October 30, 2010, 09:47:04 AM »

I wouldn't mind one of those fake tops myself.  I've also found the repro ones don't last worth snot and I too am also one of those people that enjoys the idea of the little details making the difference.
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Troy
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« Reply #8 on: October 30, 2010, 09:53:56 AM »

I just don't open the hood - keeps things "mysterious"... Cheesy

Although, if I knew where to get on of the fake boxes I'd probably get one for at least one of the cars. I wouldn't spend the cash for a repro battery that looks great but doesn't function worth a darn. I drive my cars way too much to deal with that.

Troy
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #9 on: October 30, 2010, 11:37:04 AM »

I wouldn't mind one of those fake tops myself.  I've also found the repro ones don't last worth snot and I too am also one of those people that enjoys the idea of the little details making the difference.
2thumbs

Hey, I didn't do all that work to keep the hood closed. rotz

Restored engine compartment minus original looking battery. =  2thumbs

Restored engine compartment with original looking battery and cables.  =  coolgleamA +  drool5

 icon_smile_big
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ACUDANUT
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« Reply #10 on: October 30, 2010, 12:36:51 PM »

If a old "Factory Style Battery" floats your boat....More power to you. Twocents
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The70RT
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« Reply #11 on: October 30, 2010, 12:41:13 PM »

I plan on gettin the optima dry cell...no fuss no muss. I suppose you could get a box or top for it also. They are more then a diehard etc but supposedly last longer Huh
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« Reply #12 on: October 30, 2010, 12:41:35 PM »

So far mine have always lasted at least as long as Ive owned the car!  coolgleamA
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #13 on: October 30, 2010, 12:42:12 PM »

If a old "Factory Style Battery" floats your boat....More power to you. Twocents
It floats me. I just don't care for the high cost and short life. Kinda once ya been there, you don't wanna go back.
Just looking for other ideas and thoughts.
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« Reply #14 on: October 30, 2010, 12:43:49 PM »

I plan on gettin the optima dry cell...no fuss no muss. I suppose you could get a box or top for it also. They are more then a diehard etc but supposedly last longer Huh

The newer repop batteries are supposed to be the same as an optima . The older repops were fill with acid types ,but the ones in the last 5 or so years are way better.



Rob, Did you have to fill yours when you got it?
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
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« Reply #15 on: October 30, 2010, 01:01:17 PM »

Would the spiral cell stuff fit properly in the old style cases?
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #16 on: October 30, 2010, 01:03:57 PM »

Brian, Remember back when I asked you and chris a 100 questions a week?
I was gonna get the acid one but you advised me to get the gel Optima type for the extra $ because you redid a GTX or something because of the acid that over flowed on the fender skirt area. No regrets. It's just not lasting long which seems to be normal? From what I'm reading. I hope chris post his thread of how he redid his. I remember him saying cutting into a lead acid battery was not fun.
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« Reply #17 on: October 30, 2010, 02:27:40 PM »

Brian, Remember back when I asked you and chris a 100 questions a week?
I was gonna get the acid one but you advised me to get the gel Optima type for the extra $ because you redid a GTX or something because of the acid that over flowed on the fender skirt area. No regrets. It's just not lasting long which seems to be normal? From what I'm reading. I hope chris post his thread of how he redid his. I remember him saying cutting into a lead acid battery was not fun.

Oh yeah. I remember that now.  The Optima type need to be keep charged all the time . Even an Optima  will not last well if it is allowed to be drain somewhat all the time. These cars dont usually get driven enuf to have a stable charge. You really need something like a tender to get the longest life from the battery.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #18 on: October 31, 2010, 09:07:18 AM »

 popcrn

Chris?


I know you Have a detailed thread about putting a battery in the repro shell.  Don't make call you at home. nana
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nvrbdn
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« Reply #19 on: October 31, 2010, 09:22:07 AM »

here is something that works, i did it to my golf cart batteries and a car battery and it works great. take a gallon of distilled water and heat on the stove. hot but not boiling. then add 10 tablespoons of epson salt and stir till dissolved. take the acid down in the battery to the cores. add the water to the battery after it has cooled down and charge all night. the epson salt water will dissolve the gunk at the bottom of the battery that makes contact between the cores which is shortening the charge of the battery. when i did it to the golf cart, those 6 batteries ran that thing like new. 2 years now and still running strong. the car battery is in the cougar and it can sit for weeks at a time and whenever you hit the key it starts. try it. 2thumbs
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« Reply #20 on: October 31, 2010, 09:57:03 AM »

here is something that works, i did it to my golf cart batteries and a car battery and it works great. take a gallon of distilled water and heat on the stove. hot but not boiling. then add 10 tablespoons of epson salt and stir till dissolved. take the acid down in the battery to the cores. add the water to the battery after it has cooled down and charge all night. the epson salt water will dissolve the gunk at the bottom of the battery that makes contact between the cores which is shortening the charge of the battery. when i did it to the golf cart, those 6 batteries ran that thing like new. 2 years now and still running strong. the car battery is in the cougar and it can sit for weeks at a time and whenever you hit the key it starts. try it. 2thumbs

These batteries are sealed and the caps are glued on. That process does work well on lead acid batteries though.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
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« Reply #21 on: October 31, 2010, 10:28:13 AM »

soooo where are you dumping the acid when you

here is something that works, i did it to my golf cart batteries and a car battery and it works great. take a gallon of distilled water and heat on the stove. hot but not boiling. then add 10 tablespoons of epson salt and stir till dissolved. take the acid down in the battery to the cores. add the water to the battery after it has cooled down and charge all night. the epson salt water will dissolve the gunk at the bottom of the battery that makes contact between the cores which is shortening the charge of the battery. when i did it to the golf cart, those 6 batteries ran that thing like new. 2 years now and still running strong. the car battery is in the cougar and it can sit for weeks at a time and whenever you hit the key it starts. try it. 2thumbs
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Robert-Las Vegas, NV

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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #22 on: October 31, 2010, 10:45:29 AM »

soooo where are you dumping the acid when you

here is something that works, i did it to my golf cart batteries and a car battery and it works great. take a gallon of distilled water and heat on the stove. hot but not boiling. then add 10 tablespoons of epson salt and stir till dissolved. take the acid down in the battery to the cores. add the water to the battery after it has cooled down and charge all night. the epson salt water will dissolve the gunk at the bottom of the battery that makes contact between the cores which is shortening the charge of the battery. when i did it to the golf cart, those 6 batteries ran that thing like new. 2 years now and still running strong. the car battery is in the cougar and it can sit for weeks at a time and whenever you hit the key it starts. try it. 2thumbs
Oh boy.  popcrn
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nvrbdn
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« Reply #23 on: October 31, 2010, 11:42:09 AM »

i jar the acid and wait for a low battery on one of the other vehicles.use it with the distelled water to top them back off 2thumbs
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« Reply #24 on: October 31, 2010, 03:33:41 PM »

I agree 1969chargerrtse.  If the car is modified quite a bit then I'd say go with whatever. But when you're sticking close to original the OEM looks the best.  Mine I got from Antique Auto Battery.  It is going on 5 years now and the only issue was last year, over the winter it got weak.  And when I called and asked about the warranty, they said I'd have to send it to them at my expense and they would decide if it was covered.  So if it's not, I was out the shiping and the carkas fo the battery.  There are several places I see in MCG all the time.  The next one I will try is the one in PA, i forget the name right now.
But again, I agree, I believe it dresses up under the hood.


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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #25 on: November 01, 2010, 04:44:24 AM »

Was reading some stuff on a Mopart thread about where to get them delivered for 229.00  Not bad I may just buy another in spring.  Others also said they got 3 years and carried a jumber on the 4th year.  I guess I could carry a spare batt and jumpers in the trunk for the 4th year?


From moparts

" I just bought my sealed Group 27 battery through Fred Gilmore. Very responsive and great to work with.
He placed the order and it was in my car 2 days later!
$229 including shipping was by far the best deal I could find for that particular battery. "

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bill440rt
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« Reply #26 on: November 01, 2010, 06:01:53 AM »

I agree 1969chargerrtse.  If the car is modified quite a bit then I'd say go with whatever. But when you're sticking close to original the OEM looks the best.  Mine I got from Antique Auto Battery.  It is going on 5 years now and the only issue was last year, over the winter it got weak.  And when I called and asked about the warranty, they said I'd have to send it to them at my expense and they would decide if it was covered.  So if it's not, I was out the shiping and the carkas fo the battery.  There are several places I see in MCG all the time.  The next one I will try is the one in PA, i forget the name right now.
But again, I agree, I believe it dresses up under the hood.


 iagree
Nothing kills a bone-stock looking engine compartment worse than a parts-store battery.  puke Worse yet are crusty battery cables.  rotz

I've had my sealed red-caps for at least 5 years now if not 6. I just throw a battery charger on them every now & then to keep them fully charged. I keep telling myself that someday I'll invest in one of those multi-port battery tenders.
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« Reply #27 on: November 01, 2010, 06:31:14 AM »

Just did a quick search on the YO website. Thought I'd seen them before.
This one's listed for a Camaro but with further investigation you can probably find the correct MoPar item too.

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?input=battery+b+body&SM=1&SC=
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« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2010, 07:28:32 AM »

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1
But keep in mind, you're paying close to $100 for a decent battery and then another $65 for the cover which may or may not look good and/or fit right.  For another $40 or so, you can get an actual gel cell that is correct.
And bill440rt - right on the money on the crusty posts.  I neglected to mention that I went the extra few bucks and got the gel-cell which is no mess!  Always clean and no maintenance.  But like any non-ff the shelf parts, I just chalk it up to another expense of having a classic car.   cheers
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #29 on: November 01, 2010, 05:31:14 PM »

Yeah come to think about it the 229.00 batt is probably acid and that aint happening.
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« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2010, 05:48:34 PM »

Here is the one I got. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYSLER-MOPAR-GROUP-27-RESTORATION-BATTERY-1969-1973-/250648635434?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5bd2a82a
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #31 on: November 01, 2010, 09:02:58 PM »

That one looks pretty good and it's sealed, maintenance free, too.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #32 on: November 02, 2010, 04:48:19 AM »

Nice, how much was shipping?
Mine was only 3 year rated.
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« Reply #33 on: November 02, 2010, 08:05:39 AM »


Looks like almost 50 bucks to ship  eek
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« Reply #34 on: November 03, 2010, 10:47:15 AM »

Mine has been in my car for 7 years, always keep it on a battery tender. Sometimes you can find blem batterys on ebay, usally the blems on the case cannot be seen once installed. they are usally 75.00? less.  cheers 
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Just 6T9 CHGR
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« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2010, 06:42:09 PM »

Sorry I missed this one.....heres the topic.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,28459.0.html


Little sucker is still going strong!
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Chris' '69 Charger R/T

1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #36 on: November 03, 2010, 07:53:32 PM »

Sorry I missed this one.....heres the topic.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,28459.0.html


Little sucker is still going strong!
Thanks.  2thumbs

After reading all the work you did, I may just buy another new one.  icon_smile_big

I don't have a safe shop to cut into the gel battery.


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« Reply #37 on: November 03, 2010, 08:56:07 PM »

After reading all the work you did, I may just buy another new one.  icon_smile_big
  iagree
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mauve66
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« Reply #38 on: November 05, 2010, 03:30:47 PM »

the ebay one looks just like the YO battery that they want over 4 bills for  brickwall brickwall
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Robert-Las Vegas, NV

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« Reply #39 on: November 05, 2010, 03:34:48 PM »

After reading all the work you did, I may just buy another new one.  icon_smile_big
  iagree

So wheres the fun in that??
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« Reply #40 on: November 05, 2010, 04:19:07 PM »

The fun is driving it.  And then  cheers
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #41 on: November 05, 2010, 06:12:16 PM »

After reading all the work you did, I may just buy another new one.  icon_smile_big
  iagree

So wheres the fun in that??
Not blowing myself up and dying in burning pain of acid while trying to do what you did.
Dropping in the new battery and taking a cruise.  shruggy
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #42 on: November 06, 2010, 11:43:08 AM »

I stopped by a collectors house today and all his cars were on battery tenders.  I asked how they worked and how long the battery's last?  He said great, and forever.  So I'm gonna buy a new battery in spring and a battery tender for the winter months.
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« Reply #43 on: November 06, 2010, 12:04:36 PM »

I've had my repop mopar battery in the hemi car for six years.  When I'm not driving it daily/weekly the battery stays hooked to a battery tender and I occasionally check the water level.  The longest I've gotten before using the battery tender was two summers.  The repops don't winter well.

I agree that the battery makes the look, but I also use an overpriced Mopar battery from the dealer in other cars.  They go on sale especially this timme of year.  It helps, but not quite the 60s look.
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« Reply #44 on: November 06, 2010, 05:17:57 PM »

I stopped by a collectors house today and all his cars were on battery tenders.  I asked how they worked and how long the battery's last?  He said great, and forever.  So I'm gonna buy a new battery in spring and a battery tender for the winter months.
They're on sale right now at Harbr Freight ... something like 7 or 8 dollars.
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y3chargerrt
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« Reply #45 on: November 07, 2010, 03:00:28 AM »

I leave my repro gel battery hooked up to a battery tender 100% of the time that it sits in the garage.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #46 on: November 07, 2010, 08:11:06 AM »

I leave my repro gel battery hooked up to a battery tender 100% of the time that it sits in the garage.
How long have you had it?

I'm wondering if it's my starter?  I pulled the battery charger off of it and it cranked over slowly.  I thought that was odd but it's cold in the am.  I went for a 30 min drive and it cranked over slow again and I thought it was just weak and on it's way out. When I was leaving a friends house after the car sat in his driveway for an hour, it cranked over fast and started the car with no problem.  I'll have to keep an eye on what going on.
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1969chargerrtse
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« Reply #47 on: November 08, 2010, 06:56:28 PM »

I stopped by a collectors house today and all his cars were on battery tenders.  I asked how they worked and how long the battery's last?  He said great, and forever.  So I'm gonna buy a new battery in spring and a battery tender for the winter months.
They're on sale right now at Harbr Freight ... something like 7 or 8 dollars.
Found it for 7.99  Thanks.  2thumbs


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« Reply #48 on: October 27, 2012, 01:35:44 PM »

" I just bought my sealed Group 27 battery through Fred Gilmore. Very responsive and great to work with.
He placed the order and it was in my car 2 days later!
$229 including shipping was by far the best deal I could find for that particular battery. "

Any contact for this Fred Gilmore fellow?
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« Reply #49 on: October 27, 2012, 02:51:25 PM »

bull, here's a link to a moparts thread i'd saved that has Fred Gilmore's email contact...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=6074278&an=0&page=0

fgilmore@speednet.com
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« Reply #50 on: October 27, 2012, 03:17:49 PM »

Why doesn't someone take up selling the shells only for a conversion.?
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« Reply #51 on: October 28, 2012, 07:09:17 AM »

bull, here's a link to a moparts thread i'd saved that has Fred Gilmore's email contact...

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=6074278&an=0&page=0

fgilmore@speednet.com

Thanks. 2thumbs
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