Dash Removal Help?

[440]

I'm pondering removing the dash from my 69 Charger and unfortunately the car is complete.

Does the windshield need to be removed for dash removal ?

Anyone have an exploded diagram ?

Thanks,
   RJ

[Domino]

1) yes
2) I don't

[FLG]

I think you can remove it with the windsheild on but its going to be a pain in the arse, if you do some searches there are plenty of threads on the matter.

[BananaDan]

Everyone I have spoken with have said the windshield has to come out to get the dash out.  You might be able to do it leaving the windshield in, but you may have to use a sawzall.      As for diagrams, the Service Manuals have really good diagrams and pictures of the dash frames from a behind view.  I've been using them for my resto to properly route the dash harness and install the relays in the proper spots and such.

Dan

[squeakfinder]

 I think the bolts on the inside of the bottom of the windshield would be difficult to remove with the glass still installed.  

[440]

  That's what I was afraid of.

Maybe I'll save that project for another day

[doctor4766]

That's what I was afraid of.

Maybe I'll save that project for another day

What's it need to come out for?

Just had a look at mine and like said, you cant remove the top bolts with the windshield rubber over the top of them. Not just difficult but I'd say impossible.

[elacruze]

I took the dash out of my R/T with the windshield in in 1984 (I was 23) and I'd not do it that way again.

[440]

It needs to come out to be repainted/ re dyed.... I got my new dash pad and need to take the cluster out to send off to be restored, so I figured now is as good as any. If the windscreen has to come out then I think I'll wait...

[BananaDan]

I am in the middle of restoring my interior and I left mine in because I just had my windshield replaced a few years ago.  When you get the interior gutted, or if you're not doing a gut restore, at least remove your front seats, dash bezels/panels and dash pads and glove box.  Get in there with a vacuum and suck out all of the crap that is laying in the horizontal surfaces in your dash frame.  Then clean it up real good with your favorite cleaner.  You can then get a roll of auto paint masking plastic in rolls.  Just cover everything with plastic that's in the front area of your car. I went to an auto body store and bought a 24 foot roll for like 15 bucks.  Once everything is covered and protected, lay a few coats of SEM Trim Black on the dash frame.  The stuff flashes in less than 5 minutes and is dry to the touch in less than 10.  You can easily get 3 coats done in 30-40 minutes.  The masking time is going to be the most time consuming, but you're talking about a weekend project versus many many weekends of a complete dash restore.  I guess it depends on what state your dash frame is in currently.   

Dan

[doctor4766]

It needs to come out to be repainted/ re dyed.... I got my new dash pad and need to take the cluster out to send off to be restored, so I figured now is as good as any. If the windscreen has to come out then I think I'll wait...

When you're ready to have the windscreen removed I'll put you onto someone in Adelaide.

[440]

The dash itself is in great shape, like someone had previously restored it, however, it doesn't match the rest of the car and it bugs me. The interior has also been reupholstered so everything else is like new.

I suppose a quick spray job on the frame and top panel would suffice till I'm ready to do a complete restoration. I just hate doing things in halves if I know I'm going to have to do it again.

[440]

I just got the cluster out and the dash removal looks easier than I thought regarding the frame and padded pieces etc, however, I do see the screws that are hiding under the windshield rubber.

Should sealant be used where the frame meets the firewall ?

[doctor4766]

Wouldn't have thought so. But I could be wrong.
The correct sealing of the rubber to body and rubber to glass should eliminate the need for that.
I see where you're coming from though.

[440]

That's what I thought but it appears someone used sealant on this one, you can see it around the screw etc..

[BananaDan]

That's a good lookin' cluster.  If you have to spray the top of the dash, then forget my idea.  I thought you only wanted to paint the frame (driver facing and floor facing areas).  I was lucky and the body shop painted the top of mine for me when they had the windshield out.

Dan

[440]

My cluster will be going off to Instrument Specialties like yours Dan. The regulator got wiped out and killed a few of the gauges I will be upgrading the clock with a Tic-Toc-Tac and an Evans wiring harness.

I suppose I'm this far I might as well just pull the dash, steering column, windshield and paint everything. I have a bunch of other stuff to be sent off to be dyed so might as well send the pads and vinyl bits off too... Do it once and do it right...

I wish BE&A did kick panels, I noticed one of mine has a small corner chipped off, only noticed it while pulling the dash vent out  

[BananaDan]

If you have EI, make sure you tell them so they can upgrade your tach for EI also.  You also have a choice with the ammeter.  I left mine as an ammeter, but some people have it converted to a voltmeter, with either a voltmeter face, or an ammeter face.

[440]

I have the Mopar EI. Mine just says Alternator so I suppose it's a ammeter as it says -40 -20 0 +20 +40. I'd rather have whatever is stock but I have a high output alternator. Voltmeter would be more beneficial I'd say though.

The Charger Specialties Tachs are modernized so that wont be a problem.

Where does everyone get the penstar decal for the vin tag as mine is nearly rubbed off?

Also, Are the sliding knobs for the heater/ac controls available as Repro ?

[doctor4766]

WHat's the go with having a tach that isn't set up for EI?

[440]

Your up late  I guess for a points ignition set up...

[Nacho-RT74]

I think you can remove it with the windsheild on but its going to be a pain in the arse, if you do some searches there are plenty of threads on the matter.

not on 1st and 2nd gens, yes on 3rd gens

[440]

I think you can remove it with the windsheild on but its going to be a pain in the arse, if you do some searches there are plenty of threads on the matter.

not on 1st and 2nd gens, yes on 3rd gens

How do you get the screws in question out under the rubber gasket Nacho ?

[Nacho-RT74]

3rd gens are not under the rubber ( in fact, glasses on 3rd gens are not attached with rubber weatherstrip, 3m strip and sealant instead, or urethane if "upgraded" or replaced ), so they are posible to remove with windshield in place. Bolts are just right below the glass lip on some locations what don't disturb with glass mounting

1st and 2nd gens are mandatory remove the windshield because the dash frame is bolted just right on the glass lip channel

[BananaDan]

WHat's the go with having a tach that isn't set up for EI?

I was told if you have a non-EI modified tach with a car that has been upgraded to EI the tach won't be accurate.  I don't know the nitty gritty technical reason of the tach internals for why that is, but it's one of the questions Instrument Specialties ran me through when we scoped out the job.  They asked me if I wanted the clock upgrade to quartz movement which I did, they asked me if I had EI, which I do and they asked me if I wanted to keep the ammeter as an ammeter which I did.  They also ask what you want the odometer set to.  I got her back from body and engine/mechanical resto last September and put about 200-225 miles on her before putting her away for the winter so I had them set the odometer to 200 miles to reflect her rebirth.

Dan

[gtx6970]

any good shop can have it out in under and hour and IMO is the only way to do anything major under or in the dash

my back can't lay in that position that long like it used to

[doctor4766]

any good shop can have it out in under and hour and IMO is the only way to do anything major under or in the dash

my back can't lay in that position that long like it used to

This is true. But there IS the risk of glass breakage during removal OR refit. *Even if it's your own car you're working on AND you're a pro
It's a risk that must be taken though if the job is going to be done properly.

[440]

I think pulling the cluster is the hardest part with all the connections etc. The rest is fairly straight forward.

My back is still a bit sore from putting a new regulator in with the hopes it would bring life back to some of the gauges. The cluster was still installed and the clutch pedal kept getting in the way of my arm making it extra difficult.

[440]

Well I made some headway today and it's pretty much time to pull the windscreen out, disconnect the last remaining few things, drop the column and out she comes. You can also see the original color of the car around the ash tray, kinda cool finally knowing a bit more history as to what color it used to be....

I was quoted $233 to pull the windshield out and reseal it. At lease they insure the glass so if they break it they will replace it, $890 for a new screen and they provide a new gasket. They also said it might be a bit cheaper if they can reuse my gasket.

As always you find little surprises along the way like a couple of the studs on the back of the fascia were broken and the previous owner put a strip of foam to keep it from rattling, wrong screw here and there so... time to order a few more bits   

I do have a few questions however, Are the heater control knobs being reproduced?

Also, what is supposed to cover the blower box?

Anyone reproduce the headlight vacuum harness w/grommet ?

[doctor4766]

There's a cover that's made if fibreglass I think, that screws under the dash to cover the heater box. Just can't find a pic atm
And you can get new decals for the A/C control sliders. Not sure if the actual knobs are reproduced though.

[440]

There's a vacuum activated door that closes it off but surely it wouldn't be open like that when the door is open. I'm not terribly fussed about the AC stuff but it would be nice if it's at least complete under the dash, so that if a later date I or whomever else wanted to ad the AC all they'll have worry about is firewall forward. All I really need are the hoses to the center vent and outer vents and whatever covers the heater box.

I'll have to track down some of those decals. 

Does your Charger have AC Paul ?

[doctor4766]

Might have some spare hoses kicking around somewhere. I'll take a look.

Yes my Charger is an A/C car but when I bought it, it seems that any and every possible part that they could remove to sell seperately was taken off before the sale.
All A/C accessories including the whole heater box, All the driprail moldings, bumper overriders,vinyl roof moldings, front and rear glass moldings, wheel well moldings etc etc etc were gone and I had to source myself.
I've replaced all but the under hood aircon parts to this date.
Maybe before next summer................

[440]

Awesome, A/C is almost mandatory in Aus. I bet that wasn't cheap getting all the bits for your car... Luckily I have all of the A/C equipment under the dash except for the 3 A/C hoses for the center vent and the two outer vents.

Can you take a pic of your heater box when you get a chance ?  

Thanks,

 RJ

[440]

Well, I got the dash out yesterday and   I can't say it was terribly hard, quite easy actually, but the visual after tearing apart a perfectly good car is a bit overwhelming. The thought of the end result is whats keeping my spirits up.

Whoever installed the windscreen went nuts with the silicone which removing was a pain. At least it's pretty much ready to go to the body shop now to get the window channels sealed and resprayed. To my surprise the lower corners of the window channels looked quite good, and all of the reveal clip screws came out without a hitch.

Should there be sealant between the dash frame and the firewall ? There was sealant on mine and over the reveal clip screws...

Also, what's the best way to seal the windscreen and clips to protect against rust and future deterioration?

I also got my repop kick panels from Dante's and I am anything but impressed. If I didn't live so far away I would return them. The grain is terrible - similar grain as the fascia panels which stands out and looks wrong from first glance upon opening the box. Also, instead of a molded standoff for the screw fixing they give you a nylon spacer...... The panels come from "Dashtop by Palco Industries". I should have asked more questions before ordering them    

I'll end up using my original kick panels as the grain is correct and the BE&A A pillar grain is the same.

[doctor4766]

Also, what's the best way to seal the windscreen and clips to protect against rust and future deterioration?
Make sure the fitter applies heaps of butyl mastic between both the rubber and body, and the rubber and glass.
Enough such he has to clean up what oozes out ofter the rubber is "locked up"
Might not protect the clips as they will always get wet in the rain but enough sealer should stop water getting into the cabin.

[440]

There was hardly, if any mastic around the rubber or glass. Most of the mastic was between the dash frame and firewall, behind and covering the reveal clip screws. I think this is why they fared so well. Luckily there wasn't any evidence of new rust forming, but I'm still going to ask the body man to lead fill and seal the corner seams.

I think the mastic between the dash frame and firewall was original as the original body color is evident underneath and was simply painted over when the car was painted.

I'm sure looking forward to getting this part of the car finished......

Want some new repop black kick panels and a black dash pad Paul ?  Do you know where to find a vent control knob for a side vent ?   


 

[doctor4766]

I'd like to get some upper door pads one day lol (keep me in mind)
Hey which vent knob are you referring to.. have a pic?
I may have something

[440]

I'll be turfing (selling) mine once I put the new ones on.. You've seen pics of mine, interested in them even though they are painted? If you could easily strip the paint they would be fine.... 

[doctor4766]

Can't remember if I have seen them actually.
Can you email me please?

I'll take a look if I have that knob for you. I'm sure I've got a couple of spare vents at the shop.

[az69rtcharger]

I just removed my windshield and dash unit and can't believe how easy it was and I had no one help me, now just to remove the heater unit and then off to the media blaster so I can start the body work and paint next week, I'm so lucky to have a rust free body that only requires minor work.

[440]

Yes az69rtcharger, it was a lot easier than I thought too....

I'm going to send my dash frame off to get dipped and coated but I'm a bit worried about letting it out of my control with the VIN tag still attached to it...

[doctor4766]

Pretty sure you can buy those special rivets, Someone here will know.
That way you can remove it before sending the dash off.
Or you can do what I did and use standard rivets to reinstall the tag.
Yeah I know it's not "correct" but my whole car is non original

[440]

I have some of the special rivets coming along with the Chrysler Penstar logo transfer for the VIN. I suppose once it's painted you wouldn't see that they were new.... Although if road reg suspected something I'd be in for it