News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Is there any reason I shouldn't use washers on the lower ball joint bolts?

Started by bull, April 25, 2011, 10:21:01 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

bull

I don't think the lower ball joint to steering knuckle bolts came with washers but I couldn't think of a reason they would bother anything. Can you?

Oh, and I just noticed while posting this pic that I might want to put that lower ball joint cotter pin in from the other direction. :icon_smile_blackeye:

A383Wing


a washer sometimes will "crush"......thus leaving the ball joint not tight in the knuckle

bull

I understand what you're saying but I don't think that has happened here.


six-tee-nine

I have never ever seen any washers used in suspension linkages. Most washers are made out of a softer material (cheap iron). therefor the washer can easily get pressed together under the stress of the suspension movement.
Unless you used high qualitiy grade steel washers i'd be removing them
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


resq302

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

gtx6970

washer under the nuts is aftermkt parts only. Due to the hole position is different and requires the washer to put the cotter pin thru the slots in the nut

bull

Quote from: gtx6970 on April 26, 2011, 06:08:31 AM
washer under the nuts is aftermkt parts only. Due to the hole position is different and requires the washer to put the cotter pin thru the slots in the nut

These particular bolts don't have cotter pin holes because they use a prevailing torque nut, but I hear what you're saying. The aftermarket kit did come with a washer for the upper ball joint stud.

elacruze

You can use washers with 2 considerations; as stated above, they must be grade 8 hardened so they can't retreat, and you must remove the washer after torquing to verify that there is clearance between the washer and neck of taper if it protrudes above the ball joint surface.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

John_Kunkel

The main reason washers are used is to prevent the face of the nut/bolt from scarring the structure.

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

elacruze

1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

bull

Quote from: John_Kunkel on April 26, 2011, 03:40:30 PM
The main reason washers are used is to prevent the face of the nut/bolt from scarring the structure.

Yea, that's why I wanted to use them here. Anyway, I'm not married to the idea.

westcoastdodge

no washers on my '68,my pal has a '71 demon and there is no washers on that :2thumbs:
I don't care what is is designed to do,I want to know what it can do.
Gene Kranz

John_Kunkel


Coming from the aircraft industry I'm well aware of the old rule about using a washer on everything, especially items that are removed often. However, newer aircraft don't always adhere to that rule; mostly for weight considerations and due to the fact that the mating surface of newer hardware is smoother.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

bull

Quote from: John_Kunkel on April 26, 2011, 03:40:30 PM
The main reason washers are used is to prevent the face of the nut/bolt from scarring the structure.




Kern Dog

Quote from: terrible one on April 25, 2011, 11:44:32 PM
I say go for it. By the way, looks beautiful. :2thumbs:

Looks fine to me. I've also have used washers if a condition exists where the cotter key hole sits too far up on the threads.

375instroke

A washer came with my ball joints.  It looks like a thick, shiny POS.  I couldn't torque it to the FSM spec of 100ft-lbs.  It felt like I was stretching the stud.  Took the nut off, and the washer was squeezing out, but the threads and the bottom of the nut looked fine.  Assembled without the washer and it torqued up fine, but the cotter pin hole is too far from the castellations.  I'll have to find two hardened washers for them.

John_Kunkel

You have to understand that 100 ft. lbs. is the minimum torque, if the cotter pin hole doesn't line up at 100 ft. lbs., keep tightening the nut until the hole lines up.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

375instroke

By too far, I mean the hole is above the nut and needs a washer to place the castellations close enough to the hole so a cotter pin will even engage with the nut.

Draco

  The factory bolt was grade 8 and the nut was a tall castle nut no washer. thank I would head to the junk yard if you can't find your old ones.

375instroke

Here's the old one, and it wasn't installed properly either.  How's the cotter pin going to do anything if it isn't even touching the nut, let alone be inside the castellations?





The new nut is the same height as the old one.  With a thick, hardened washer, the cotter pin is at least half way into the castellations.





Here's the POS washer I couldn't get to torque to spec with that came with the ball joint.