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Author Topic: 409053 - original owner daytona  (Read 29315 times)
bbark9473
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« Reply #175 on: June 25, 2019, 03:14:33 PM »

.
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held1823
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« Reply #176 on: June 26, 2019, 08:53:52 AM »

Not sure if this helps or not since it's my Superbird...but it was handy and of the area behind the battery tray/can.
Good luck!
Scott


yes it does, scott. thanks
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ernie helderbrand - 409053
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« Reply #177 on: June 26, 2019, 09:34:41 AM »

Not sure if this helps or not since it's my Superbird...but it was handy and of the area behind the battery tray/can.
Good luck!
Scott

Note the factory 'waves' in the metal.   Twocents
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I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?
held1823
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« Reply #178 on: June 26, 2019, 09:45:49 AM »

Not sure if this helps or not since it's my Superbird...but it was handy and of the area behind the battery tray/can.
Good luck!
Scott

Note the factory 'waves' in the metal.   Twocents

yes. they are my dilemma on how to smooth out this dent but not overdo it.  not to mention we have to rebuild the top (horizontal) area if reusing the original. i'm almost leaning towards replacing with an amd inner panel.

the right side isn't as bad, although new metal would be far easier to work with here, as well

the threads for both john and gene's car are a huge asset, but i may have overlooked this next question in them.
does anyone have a view of the fender bolt - hood pin mounting hole area? something just seems off with what i have on hand.

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ernie helderbrand - 409053
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« Reply #179 on: June 26, 2019, 11:06:16 AM »

If you are not going to change out the left apron, pulling force will need to be applied,  clamped to the left apron, so the wrinkles can be hammered and dollied out.   The metal has memory, but it will need some gentle force applied in the opposite direction to help it get there.    If you are friendly with someone at a local body shop, it should not be too expensive to have that area worked.    
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moparstuart
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« Reply #180 on: June 26, 2019, 12:28:45 PM »

Try Hard  to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible    Twocents
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held1823
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« Reply #181 on: June 26, 2019, 11:22:17 PM »

Try Hard  to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible    Twocents

This is where I find myself undecided. Logic says replace both sides, to save time and money. I also understand the thought process of what you suggest.
With a reproduction front end on it and the numbers engine long gone, it is never going to be a top tier car.  It is going to be driven.
Most importantly, the car's value is truly of zero consequence here. it will not change hands in my lifetime.

If the fit and quality of the AMD panels are as nice as I'm told there are,  I personally could live with using them.
That said, I have no idea what clean rust-free oem inner fenders go for. Or how much to invest in trying to save these.
I do know i need to decide soon, if i go with repro ones and expect to have a vendor bring them to carlisle.

These are of larry's car (back off, stuie, i'm first up for adoption). Are there not two holes, one with the hood pin it it, and the other a fender bolt?
It will be friday before i can check, but i don't recall seeing two holes on each side of my support.
I guess it's possible i need to drill one for the hood pin, but maybe i'm wrong about the count to begin with and i already have it.

Does someone have a photo looking straight down on this area prior to installing the fenders?
I'm wondering how much metal needs to be added here, and in what shape, to my existing inner panels
These photos make me think i am not missing nearly as much of both the horizontal and vertical edges as i originally thought.
I was thinking that the "slot" or "notch" at the tip of mine was actually an oblong hole to begin with.
My right one, as seen above, is missing more of that oblong hole than is the left side.



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ernie helderbrand - 409053
Mopar John
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« Reply #182 on: June 27, 2019, 08:59:57 AM »

Ernie,
 I have a original B Body passengers side inner fender for you.
Your passengers side seems to be a lot better than your drivers side.
If all you need is a couple of pieces it would be a lot less work than changing the whole inner fender out!
My inner fender would not be a good part for a total replacement because of the rust around the shock tower.
So to cut it up and save the rest of yours may work out?
The price to you is FREE! Just come and get it!
MJ


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held1823
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« Reply #183 on: June 27, 2019, 09:34:35 AM »

Ernie,
 I have a original B Body passengers side inner fender for you.
Your passengers side seems to be a lot better than your drivers side.
If all you need is a couple of pieces it would be a lot less work than changing the whole inner fender out!
My inner fender would not be a good part for a total replacement because of the rust around the shock tower.
So to cut it up and save the rest of yours may work out?
The price to you is FREE! Just come and get it!
MJ



thanks, john. for both the generous offer and for that photo.

could i get you to take another one that shows the rest of that top edge edge that is out of view here?

it will answer the question gary has about how to locate the holes

i'm off for a three day weekend after today, so you may have a visitor

i did lose your number when i managed to put my cell phone through sixty inches worth of mower blades


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #184 on: June 27, 2019, 09:43:58 AM »

let me really push my luck here.

does anyone have the LEFT side that i could purchase?
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ernie helderbrand - 409053
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« Reply #185 on: June 27, 2019, 10:51:30 AM »

The damaged pictured shown areas .Went beyond the nose and inner structure .But seen worse be fixed
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
moparstuart
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« Reply #186 on: June 27, 2019, 11:05:09 AM »

Try Hard  to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible    Twocents

This is where I find myself undecided. Logic says replace both sides, to save time and money. I also understand the thought process of what you suggest.
With a reproduction front end on it and the numbers engine long gone, it is never going to be a top tier car.  It is going to be driven.
Most importantly, the car's value is truly of zero consequence here. it will not change hands in my lifetime.

If the fit and quality of the AMD panels are as nice as I'm told there are,  I personally could live with using them.
That said, I have no idea what clean rust-free oem inner fenders go for. Or how much to invest in trying to save these.
I do know i need to decide soon, if i go with repro ones and expect to have a vendor bring them to carlisle.

These are of larry's car (back off, stuie, i'm first up for adoption). Are there not two holes, one with the hood pin it it, and the other a fender bolt?
It will be friday before i can check, but i don't recall seeing two holes on each side of my support.
I guess it's possible i need to drill one for the hood pin, but maybe i'm wrong about the count to begin with and i already have it.

Does someone have a photo looking straight down on this area prior to installing the fenders?
I'm wondering how much metal needs to be added here, and in what shape, to my existing inner panels
These photos make me think i am not missing nearly as much of both the horizontal and vertical edges as i originally thought.
I was thinking that the "slot" or "notch" at the tip of mine was actually an oblong hole to begin with.
My right one, as seen above, is missing more of that oblong hole than is the left side.


You know i only want the Black one anyways  icon_smile_big
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Mopar John
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« Reply #187 on: June 27, 2019, 11:09:09 AM »

Ernie,
 I have a original B Body passengers side inner fender for you.
Your passengers side seems to be a lot better than your drivers side.
If all you need is a couple of pieces it would be a lot less work than changing the whole inner fender out!
My inner fender would not be a good part for a total replacement because of the rust around the shock tower.
So to cut it up and save the rest of yours may work out?
The price to you is FREE! Just come and get it!
MJ

Ernie,
 I have taken a couple more pictures of my passengers side inner fender.
Now I am questioning the 2 holes vs the 1 you are questioning.
So I went out and took a picture of my Daytona.
It has a 1970 style upper cross bar with the 3 holes in the center for a latch tray?
So the question now becomes does a 1969 Charger cross bar have the 2 holes like a 1970?
You have a 2 hole style cross bar you removed from your Daytona but it has the 3 holes for the latch tray studs.
Hope this makes sense?
MJ


thanks, john. for both the generous offer and for that photo.

could i get you to take another one that shows the rest of that top edge edge that is out of view here?

it will answer the question gary has about how to locate the holes

i'm off for a three day weekend after today, so you may have a visitor

i did lose your number when i managed to put my cell phone through sixty inches worth of mower blades


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Mopar John
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« Reply #188 on: June 27, 2019, 11:31:05 AM »

Ernie,
 I went out to the Daytona and took another picture of the top cross bar.
It has 3 holes in the center where the 1970 latch tray would attach.
So the 1969 Charger s must have used this?
So you need to use that top cross bar you removed from your Daytona and just take the 3 studs out.
If you still have it and it's in nice shape?
MJ


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held1823
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« Reply #189 on: June 27, 2019, 11:59:28 PM »

You know i only want the Black one anyways  icon_smile_big

all yours. see how nice and agreeable i am?

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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #190 on: June 28, 2019, 12:16:52 AM »

john, i will be at the car tomorrow afternoon, to hopefully confirm what you suspect. the photos will be a HUGE help. thank you

since the entire doghouse from the 1970 went on this car, it appears both inner fenders were modified to match the core support from that car.

i had been assuming what i'm left with now was due to crash damage, when coupled with the wrinkles above the wheel on both sides.

here is a side by side comparison of the 26 inch support i have here , and the group of them from the photo you just shared.

the second photo is of the 22 inch support from the 1970 charger, while it was still on the car

is the top cross member the only difference between a 1970 support versus the earlier years?


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
Mopar John
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« Reply #191 on: June 28, 2019, 07:02:18 AM »

Ernie,
 The cross member is different as shown in the pictures.
On the Daytona the small 90 degree piece that forms the corner under the cross member is not there also!
MJ
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held1823
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« Reply #192 on: June 28, 2019, 10:41:58 AM »

Ernie,
 The cross member is different as shown in the pictures.
On the Daytona the small 90 degree piece that forms the corner under the cross member is not there also!
MJ

meaning it's not there on mine, or it's not there on any daytona?

i guess my question is did all daytonas use a modified (for the hood latch) 70 cross member on a 69 part

if that is the case, the one i have would be correct, but we need to mark and drill the holes for the latch

since it's already apart, i want to make sure it looks correct when put back together.

amd mentions their part must be modified to fit a 70 by re-using the baffles from the 70 vehicle

i'm sure the answer to all of this is right in front of my face once i get out to the car later


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
Mopar John
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« Reply #193 on: June 28, 2019, 11:29:44 AM »

Ernie,
 The best way I can say this is that you need to use the cross member you removed if it's in good shape
and remove those corner pieces from the core support I sold you.
If your top cross bar is not good enough I have a loose correct cross bar here also!
MJ
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moparstuart
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« Reply #194 on: August 22, 2019, 12:21:26 PM »

Daytona jack under a Daytona


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held1823
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« Reply #195 on: August 23, 2019, 09:14:49 PM »

that fool buddy of mine has finally made it back to the car. first he decided to take on a case of shingles, and is still losing that battle daily. as if that wasn't enough to cope with, he decided to have a mild stroke on top of it. spent several days in the hospital, and still shows some of the after effects of it. besides the daytona, he also had a late 60's impala and a mid 70's vette in the shop when the double whammy hit. the timing couldn't have been worse for either of us, but i'd much prefer i be the one that kills him rather than his health. 

i had picked up new inner fenders at carlisle, which is why we had paused on the car shortly before his health issues. knowing that i intend to take it completely apart after the talladega meet, i have decided to hold off on putting the drive train back together and just static display it at the meet. now we are in real jeopardy of even getting the front sheet metal back on before then. i kick myself for not sticking with the original plan to leave the 22 inch support in for the meet, but what's done is done. i will likely skip the atlanta portion of the journey, and hope talladega can still be salvaged.

the photo stuart posted is a recent one, as work on the car resumed a day or so ago.

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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #196 on: September 23, 2019, 08:52:13 AM »

i've been slow to update this, so now's the time

we decided to replace the inner fenders. since none of the front end is original to the car, the decision was a little easier. i ordered both inners and a core support, and picked them up at carlisle.

i'm glad we went this route, as there was a little more damage than it first appeared.


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #197 on: September 23, 2019, 08:56:39 AM »

the rail was about a half inch out of place on the driver's side


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #198 on: September 23, 2019, 09:01:28 AM »

moved it back to the rear bay of the shop to prepare for welding the new panels in


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
held1823
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« Reply #199 on: September 23, 2019, 09:07:56 AM »

even though the car will be completely torn apart and dipped after talladega, a few problem areas were addressed as work continued


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ernie helderbrand - 409053
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