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Author Topic: Hood skin to brace calking  (Read 752 times)
oldcarnut
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« on: March 24, 2017, 10:52:41 AM »

I stripped and blasted my hood down to bare metal in prep for paint but noticed the calking/adhesive blob spots have come unstuck in several locations.  While sanding down the hood I noticed there were some dips in the contour that had been leveled out with filler on a previous repaint. If I press open the gap a little more between the brace and skin it will take care of most of it without filler but if I press the skin down on top of the old calking blobs, it gives the dip.  Did these calk blobs shrink over time as well as come unstuck?  What's a good replacement to use to re-glue them together?  
Found this post for some answers.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,128147.0.html
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68RT440
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2017, 10:19:29 AM »

Some of those have come loose on my '68 hood as well. I plan on removing them and marking the locations, having the hood acid dipped and e coated and then reinstalling them. I plan in using 3Ms panel bond to re glue them to the hood. The panel bond should stay flexible enough that it wont shrink and pull the sheet metal and pucker it like the original material did
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1968 Charger R/T, matching numbers 440/727, black with green top and interior, currently getting restored by me
oldcarnut
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2017, 08:57:57 PM »

I'm not so sure that panel bond stays flexible.  I used it to bond my rear window plug and it dries up pretty hard.
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68RT440
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« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2017, 07:52:26 AM »

I didn't word that quite right. It does dry hard to the touch, but it's able to expand and contract with different temperatures. The pucks on my underhood structure are like rocks and once they dried from the factory, it was the metals job to move around. The way the panel bond is designed, it can expand and contract instead of pulling the metal around
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1968 Charger R/T, matching numbers 440/727, black with green top and interior, currently getting restored by me
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