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Will a four core aluminum radiator work in my Superbird?

Started by hotrod98, October 06, 2011, 11:10:55 PM

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hotrod98

I'm going to make some changes to my bird to improve the cooling system. I plan to make at least part of the power tour in it next June. Champion makes a four core aluminum radiator that will bolt in and use my factory shroud but I'm worried about clearance between the radiator and the fan blade. I'm currently using a 223 seven blade non clutch style fan but I've been looking for a 224. In addition, Ill use an open style pusher fan on the front. Was also thinking about buying a better water pump. I cannot drive the car the way that it is now in this southern heat even though it has a new stock radiator along with a pusher fan.
Anyone have any experience with making these kinds of changes.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

A383Wing

I would think you should not have a problem....what is the depth of the radiator you got now compared to the 4 core aluminum one?

C5X DAYTONA

I have not run a 4 core but I did install a 4 inch Griffin aluminum 2 row.   It keeps my race car on the 160f thermostat racing and in my street car it kept my clone Daytona cool in the hot summers with the a/c on.   I live in Palm Desert CA and it does hit 120f in the summer.   I never had a cooling problem at all with this set up.     I remember thinking, if the engine temp hit 200f which was straight up on the needle it was getting warm.  But that was only in traffic.   It never got over 180f with the a/c running on the highway in the summers.  A fan clutch would not fit.   In the race car I can use any fan spacer to get the correct fan to shroud combo I was after.    With ac I had to build a custom shroud because there was not enough fan, shroud, ac clutch and idler pulley room.   But with no ac,  You have lots of room.   Also,  I have always used a stainless 7 blade flex.   What is the core/tank thickness?   I also run a baffled water pump to control water pump impeller cavitation.   BTW,  I put just over 100,000 miles on that Daytona before I sold it.
Caution.... Low flying aircraft.

Dirtybird

I had my 956 recored by a friend, and had him add an extra core. Looks stock- except from the front- which you can't see anyway- helped alot! :Twocents:

moparstuart

GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

WINGIN IT

Quote from: Dirtybird on October 07, 2011, 10:08:49 AM
I had my 956 recored by a friend, and had him add an extra core. Looks stock- except from the front- which you can't see anyway- helped alot! :Twocents:

This makes a lot of sense to me, if you want to keep it primarily stock appearing  :2thumbs:

swissmopar

Quote from: hotrod98 on October 06, 2011, 11:10:55 PM
I'm going to make some changes to my bird to improve the cooling system. I plan to make at least part of the power tour in it next June. Champion makes a four core aluminum radiator that will bolt in and use my factory shroud but I'm worried about clearance between the radiator and the fan blade. I'm currently using a 223 seven blade non clutch style fan but I've been looking for a 224. In addition, Ill use an open style pusher fan on the front. Was also thinking about buying a better water pump. I cannot drive the car the way that it is now in this southern heat even though it has a new stock radiator along with a pusher fan.
Anyone have any experience with making these kinds of changes.
I had the same temperature issues even it never gets so hot here. I put in a 4 row Champion radiator 4 weeks ago no clearance problems at all, still using the factory shroud. Either the MP aluminum water pump, nor the pusher fans really helped. It was the 4 row aluminum radiator which made a huge difference. I can take a few pics next week. Temperture does not raise above 200 degrees anymore in any driving situation.

dreamcatcher

My SB runs hot too...in fact so hot I cant drive it..my radiator almost touches the fan with no spacer.It is wide but only 2 row.I want to install an aluminum radiator too but I cant find one to fit my car.Both outlets are on the same side on mine(passengers).I have never seen a radiator but it matches my engine outlets.
1970 Superbird Tribute 440 auto
1968 Charger 426 6 pack auto
1971 Chevelle SS Tribute 350 4 speed
1970 Mustang 351 C 4 speed
1969 GTO 400 Ram air III 4 speed
1972 Charger (soon 5.7 hemi auto)
1973 Charger 440 auto (U code)
If you've never been scared (even a little) then you've never gone as fast as you could have!

BigBlockSam

just changing to an aluminum radiator will make a big difference  :yesnod:
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

loctite

I have a 4 core alum radiator in mine and it would overheat big time. I had to make a custom fan shroud and I am running an after market fan that will push more air then stock. I Also poured in some snake oil( water wetter) and after all that it would still overheat. I finally removed the thermostat and left it out and it now stays cool. Around 180. I will put it back in when it cools down. It takes a little longer to warm up but so far so good. O by the way its a 392 hemi with a big block chevy water pump.

dreamcatcher

Chevy water pump?  :scratchchin: How does that work?I think just a pusher fan would help.Mine runs 200 to 230.But I would still got with aluminum if I had the choice.  :yesnod: Speaking of shrouds...Does that large rubber piece that goes down by the K-member have anything to do with cooling?I never put that on my car as I cant find a picture and cant figure out how it fits.
1970 Superbird Tribute 440 auto
1968 Charger 426 6 pack auto
1971 Chevelle SS Tribute 350 4 speed
1970 Mustang 351 C 4 speed
1969 GTO 400 Ram air III 4 speed
1972 Charger (soon 5.7 hemi auto)
1973 Charger 440 auto (U code)
If you've never been scared (even a little) then you've never gone as fast as you could have!

HPP

The basic rule of thumb with cooling is overheating at low speed tends to indicate air flow problems, while overheating at cruising speeds indicate water speed problems. 

Airflow is related to fan size, spacing, coupling methods, and its related air flow routing as provided by shrouds and panels and other obstructions in the path of air flow. 

Water flow is related to pulley diameters, thermostat temps and styles, hose types, and engine block internal water passage cleanliness. 

Most cooling issues can be traced to one or several of these pieces that either have been altered from stock, or if output of the engine has been increased, have not been improve a corresponding amount to support the additional power output.

dreamcatcher

I have also heard that mopar changed from a clutch fan on these cars to dirrect drive fans for a fix.I am running a clutch fan at this time.
1970 Superbird Tribute 440 auto
1968 Charger 426 6 pack auto
1971 Chevelle SS Tribute 350 4 speed
1970 Mustang 351 C 4 speed
1969 GTO 400 Ram air III 4 speed
1972 Charger (soon 5.7 hemi auto)
1973 Charger 440 auto (U code)
If you've never been scared (even a little) then you've never gone as fast as you could have!

loctite

One more thing. I had an overheating problem on another car and tried everything. After doing alot of reading on this I found out that you can have to much water pump. One that push'ed the water to fast thru the system. (hi output or so much more % pump and so on) The water has to go thru the radiator slow enought to cool. Water going thru to fast won't cool down enought. This makes since  because the radiator is where the water cools.  Sounds crazy but I put on a stock pump and that fixed the problem.

62 Max

Mine bird the original 956 with a new three core,factory shroud,223 fan,6 blade a/c pump and 180* thermostat,has "never" ran hot under any conditions.

dreamcatcher

Quote from: 62 Max on October 08, 2011, 12:12:13 PM
Mine bird the original 956 with a new three core,factory shroud,223 fan,6 blade a/c pump and 180* thermostat,has "never" ran hot under any conditions.

Was the fan dirrect drive or clutch?
1970 Superbird Tribute 440 auto
1968 Charger 426 6 pack auto
1971 Chevelle SS Tribute 350 4 speed
1970 Mustang 351 C 4 speed
1969 GTO 400 Ram air III 4 speed
1972 Charger (soon 5.7 hemi auto)
1973 Charger 440 auto (U code)
If you've never been scared (even a little) then you've never gone as fast as you could have!

62 Max

Quote from: dreamcatcher on October 08, 2011, 12:14:37 PM
Quote from: 62 Max on October 08, 2011, 12:12:13 PM
Mine bird the original 956 with a new three core,factory shroud,223 fan,6 blade a/c pump and 180* thermostat,has "never" ran hot under any conditions.

Was the fan dirrect drive or clutch?


No clutch.

SBBob

When I first got the Bird it over heated on a regular basis.  Cleaned the block with flush twice and that helped a lot, but driving in a parade or traffic was still nerve wracking.  I used the original top and bottom tanks and had a custom 5 core radiator made.  Looks stock with the correct number and the fan shroud fits perfectly.  This added about another 1/2 gallon of fluid and the temp now stays right at 185 degrees even when moving slow.
Superbird Bob - 426 Hemi, 4 Speed, 3.54 Track Pack

dreamcatcher

All good information to look at here.I have owned a few vetts and they have smaller air intakes than the birds but never had a problem untill I installed headers and a blower.Headers put too much heat under a hood.Will never run another header.I wrapped them and it helped a bunch.I know my bird can run cool.I will post a few pictures but something must be different with what I am running.I have a wide 2 row core and my fan almost touches the radiator now.I dont think I can go any thicker.But maybe a non-clutch fan and a good pusher.I run a 190 thermostat now
1970 Superbird Tribute 440 auto
1968 Charger 426 6 pack auto
1971 Chevelle SS Tribute 350 4 speed
1970 Mustang 351 C 4 speed
1969 GTO 400 Ram air III 4 speed
1972 Charger (soon 5.7 hemi auto)
1973 Charger 440 auto (U code)
If you've never been scared (even a little) then you've never gone as fast as you could have!

Charger-Bodie

Mine cools perfectly with the correct fan clutch and the Glen Ray max cool Radiator. 170 all day long even when its hot. Sitting in traffic once it wormed up to about 180, but only once and it was a hot one that day and we were just creeping along.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

moparstuart

Quote from: dreamcatcher on October 08, 2011, 10:42:44 AM
My SB runs hot too...in fact so hot I cant drive it..my radiator almost touches the fan with no spacer.It is wide but only 2 row.I want to install an aluminum radiator too but I cant find one to fit my car.Both outlets are on the same side on mine(passengers).I have never seen a radiator but it matches my engine outlets.
i can get you a champion ( im a champion distributor)
that will work  call me if you need help

GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

hotrod98

I have an aftermarket radiator in the car now and that could be part of the problem. Not sure. I think I'll try the four core aluminum radiator and a new water pump. The only time that it overheats is when I'm idling around in traffic. I do have an open style posher fan but it's still not enough. It's so strange how some birds run cooler than others. It could be engine timimg, distributor timing, jetting or a little bit of everything combined.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

HPP

Quote from: hotrod98 on October 10, 2011, 09:06:57 PM
The only time that it overheats is when I'm idling around in traffic. I do have an open style posher fan but it's still not enough.

That is an airflow problem. An open style pusher fan is not moving enough air in traffic to keep it cool. Shroud with a fixed pitch fan/puller setup correctly would be much more effective.

BigBlockSam

QuoteI have an aftermarket radiator in the car now and that could be part of the problem

:yesnod: that very well could be . aluminum rad plus an hp water pump and a big pusher fan . not all pusher fans are equal . get the biggest one you can and i always get an open pusher fan, so the shroud won't block airflow. . when you have an aluminum rad and your temp gets high . the pusher fan will bring it down pretty quick .
if you have the stock rad and your  temp gets high the pusher fan will help a little but it takes a while .
  plus i use two bottles of water wetter in the antifreeze.
i went through hell getting my rod drivable . small rad , cause there's no room for a bigger one . when i switched to an aluminum rad , that was the key to getting the temp down . good luck  :cheers:
I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img

hotrod98

Quote from: HPP on October 11, 2011, 08:11:45 AM
Quote from: hotrod98 on October 10, 2011, 09:06:57 PM
The only time that it overheats is when I'm idling around in traffic. I do have an open style posher fan but it's still not enough.

That is an airflow problem. An open style pusher fan is not moving enough air in traffic to keep it cool. Shroud with a fixed pitch fan/puller setup correctly would be much more effective.

You wouldnt want a shrouded pusher fan. That would block air from being pulled through by the regular fan blade. That would make the problem worse. I'm using both fans while idling around.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams