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Author Topic: 1969 B-body A/C - Heater box overhaul , wanna follow along ?  (Read 62493 times)
440
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« Reply #50 on: December 15, 2011, 05:47:27 PM »

Hmmmmm, I know someone with a vinyl cutter who has made some small decals for me in the past, so I may try to get them to cut out some small text. Stick on the knob and if they move around due to their small size maybe a satin clear to "set" them and also increase their durability.   
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Dino
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« Reply #51 on: December 15, 2011, 07:32:06 PM »

Hmmmmm, I know someone with a vinyl cutter who has made some small decals for me in the past, so I may try to get them to cut out some small text. Stick on the knob and if they move around due to their small size maybe a satin clear to "set" them and also increase their durability.   

I'm sure that's a viable option.  One note on that, and this may never happen if it's a weekend cruiser, but if you spray something with a satin or even a flat clear then you can never do any type of polishing as it will increase the gloss.  Pushing these buttons repeatedly will effectively polish them.  Check the knobs, is the temp button the shiniest?  Now if you don't use any type of clear then the edges of the small decals will catch all the griome and they will become visible fast.

I think the decals from performance car graphics should work pretty well because they sit flush with the side edges of the knobs and then tuck underneath the bottom.  It's the route I'm going unless I find a way to restore hte knobs without decal.  And yes I will share it with all of you if I do find a way.   cheers
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« Reply #52 on: December 16, 2011, 07:27:33 PM »


  The decals from performance car graphics have extra tabs on them so you can bend them around the knobs, they may or may not work better.

Those are the ones I used on mine...cant tell there is a decal on there
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« Reply #53 on: December 18, 2011, 03:11:26 PM »

I restored my A/C controls and they look brand new. I didn't use decals but transfer script instead. After I applied the letters I clear-coated the buttons so that the letters wouldn't rub off when being pushed. Yes, it does take patience but the result is so rewarding! Don't have a picture atm but the controls look like new from the factory!

btw. why is the underside of the panel chrome? it totally stands out - I painted mine black (excepte the surface where the buttons slide on) - looks better imo.
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« Reply #54 on: December 19, 2011, 08:36:36 AM »

The underside of the panel is Chrome----either a rough surface that is chromed or a smooth surface that is chromed---depending on the supplier.  These panels are diecast and have a tendancy to pit.  This particular one has not been repopped.  Having them rechromed is expensive.  I like the idea presented to paint this a semigloss or flat black.  It would look better than the chrome.  Of course, it wouldn't be "original".  I wonder if the paint would rub off as the controls are moved back and forth?  Maybe this was why they didn't paint them originally?  Does anyone have any experience having these rechromed?  Cost?  Who did it?  If you painted this part, did the paint hold up to control knob movement?
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ChargerST
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« Reply #55 on: December 19, 2011, 11:06:51 AM »

I prefer the painted underside of my panel. The paint doesn't rub off as I only painted the rough parts - the levers slide on a thin smooth line which I left chrome.

Here is how it looks like (altered gtx6970s picture with photoshop):



* accontrolpanel.jpg (83.37 KB, 800x450 - viewed 2665 times.)
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Chatt69chgr
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« Reply #56 on: December 27, 2011, 04:32:34 PM »

Hmmmm!   That looks a lot better than a pitted piece.  I may end up painting mine.  Probably would paint the same color and texture as the dash and steering column.
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ChargerST
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« Reply #57 on: January 08, 2012, 01:23:53 PM »

Here are two pictures of my control unit. It shows how I did the chrome parts and how the transfer script looks like on the buttons - came out pretty good.



* Foto0318.JPG (57.28 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2605 times.)

* Foto0319.JPG (40.71 KB, 640x480 - viewed 2591 times.)
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PocketThunder
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« Reply #58 on: January 09, 2012, 04:32:13 PM »

Just want to post in this thread so i can find it in the near future.  I will be going thru all of this with my car.   popcrn

Paul

EDIT:  Ok i'm the moron, i see its a sticky already in this section.    slap

Edit again: Bill, if you have free time, can you post pictures of the routing of all the duct work and also pictures of the routing of everything on the engine side?  Thanks.
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« Reply #59 on: February 02, 2012, 09:27:31 AM »

I removed the cardboard shroud, which was torn and flaky at best, and broke 2 of the 3 small clips that hold the wiring to the frame.  Can you buy these?  Also is it worth spending 3 bucks on a new shroud or should I just make one myself?
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« Reply #60 on: February 03, 2012, 04:20:08 AM »

Made the cardboard shroud myself. Very easy to do - you just need a sharp knife.
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gtx6970
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« Reply #61 on: February 03, 2012, 07:28:46 AM »


Edit again: Bill, if you have free time, can you post pictures of the routing of all the duct work and also pictures of the routing of everything on the engine side?  Thanks.


When I get back to it in the next week or so I'll see what I can do( waiting on parts to show up )
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Iron Chef
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« Reply #62 on: February 26, 2012, 11:36:46 AM »

I just want to say that this is a fantastic thread.  The attention to detail and workmanship is a sight to behold.  If only all things in this country were done with such care.

I won't be starting my '71 for several months as I'm moving and will be putting up a steel shop building to do the work in, but I'm currently collecting parts and threads like these really get me looking forward to the project.  2thumbs
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« Reply #63 on: February 27, 2012, 03:55:44 PM »

Got asked via PM how I did the transfer script - here ya go:

1.) sprayed the buttons satin black - you can still tell where the original script was which helps lining up the new letters

2.) put the transfer script paper over the decals and used a pencil to rub the letters off the paper onto the buttons. when you're done with one letter just move to the next till you're done.

3.) put on several light coats of satin clear so that the script won't come off when touching the buttons.

That's it - very easy to do and gives a way nicer result than the decals. you just have to find the right script.
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bakerhillpins
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« Reply #64 on: February 27, 2012, 08:24:28 PM »

you just have to find the right script.

What transfer script did you use and where did you pick it up?
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« Reply #65 on: February 28, 2012, 04:15:32 AM »

Got them locally at an electronics shop. You should be able to get them at any paper supplies store, try Staples. The transfer script is made by Avery but there are other ones as well. Don't remember the font size but I think it was 1/8"

You should be able to get them here: http://www.ehobbies.com/trains-paint-and-accessories-woodland-scenics-dry-transfer-decals.html
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Dino
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« Reply #66 on: March 26, 2012, 11:13:25 AM »

Got asked via PM how I did the transfer script - here ya go:

1.) sprayed the buttons satin black - you can still tell where the original script was which helps lining up the new letters

2.) put the transfer script paper over the decals and used a pencil to rub the letters off the paper onto the buttons. when you're done with one letter just move to the next till you're done.

3.) put on several light coats of satin clear so that the script won't come off when touching the buttons.

That's it - very easy to do and gives a way nicer result than the decals. you just have to find the right script.

You know I may have to try that.  I have the pcg button kit so I'll try those first, but if I'm not happy with them I'm going your route.
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« Reply #67 on: April 25, 2012, 11:16:43 AM »

I'm doing my buttons at the moment and think I'll attempt the transfer route. Unfortunately I'll have to order them online as they are not available here. Was one sheet enough?
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ChargerST
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« Reply #68 on: April 25, 2012, 01:33:32 PM »

One sheet was enough.
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440
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« Reply #69 on: June 19, 2012, 11:50:33 PM »

Woodland Scenic products should be able to be found in any reputable hobby shop or train store.

From what I can tell the closest transfers from Woodland Scenics are part #DT507 Gothic White Transfers 1/16" - 3/16". 1/8" is the correct size.

While your at the hobby shop pick up a can of Tamiya TS-79 semi gloss clear lacquer spray to seal the transfers.
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ChargerST
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« Reply #70 on: June 26, 2012, 09:30:00 AM »

Do you have a picture of your finished control unit?
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440
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« Reply #71 on: June 26, 2012, 09:39:03 AM »

Who's, mine ?
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ChargerST
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« Reply #72 on: June 26, 2012, 01:41:24 PM »

Yeah, wanna see how yours turned out  cheers
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440
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« Reply #73 on: June 26, 2012, 09:40:50 PM »

I'm trying to figure out a way to test the multi-control unit before assembling it but I think it's going to be an install and see if it works  lol

Some of the buttons I had were in great shape and they were shiny, so I may coat them in gloss like original. I polished the dead chalky "white" plastic off of the poor looking buttons and they look pretty good. I wonder way some neighboring ones go white and others not?

I'm still a bit undecided if I want to paint them black first like you did. I like the uniformity of doing it that way but at the same time I want to alter them as little as possible. Mine currently vary slightly in shade which is hard to tell without a close inspection.

If I had a spare set of buttons I'd try a few things for the best results.
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« Reply #74 on: July 20, 2012, 12:32:40 PM »

Hello do anyone have any luck locating a Blower motor resistor for a charger w/Air???   I'm stuck and cant find one.
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