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Author Topic: Flat/Matte Black Paintjob Questions & Advice - Malibu is BLACKED OUT!!  (Read 23263 times)
bill440rt
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« on: December 26, 2011, 10:01:50 PM »

Let me start by saying this is not a Dodge Charger related question, but it is a paint related question. I'm posting it for advice from all the other fellow body guys & painters on here. Anyone on here have any experience or advice doing a flat or matte black paint job?? How "forgiving" is matte black on a car vs gloss?

I'm helping a neighbor friend of mine paint his '81 Malibu 2-dr hardtop. This is NOT a show car, it is primarily a race car but can be street driven. It's powered by a 454 with nitrous, and it'll run very low-10's in the 1/4. He wants it painted matte black.
The body is EXTREMELY nice. It needs no rust repairs at all, & I'm fixing maybe 12 teeny door dings on the whole car. It has your typical "stamping waves" in it, nothing major at all. I'm not going crazy with it perfecting gaps, etc.

My plan is to fix the little dings, buzz the car with a DA with 220 to give it some "bite", and then apply 3 coats or so of high-build primer. Then, I'll block it down by hand with 400 to make things nice & straight. Apply a black sealer, then the matte black paint will be base/clear with a flattening agent. The car will probably be shot with DuPont.

So, how "forgiving" is matte black on a car? If it were to be gloss, I know I'd be spraying polyester or skimming the whole thing. But, I don't want to go thru all that on this car.
Think it would be OK with some high-build and a good hand-blocking on original sheetmetal??
Any other tips are greatly appreciated!  2thumbs
Thanks!  cheers

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« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2011, 10:31:38 PM »

Bill,

Check out the flat black job we are doing following along with Hot Rod Magazine's application of Rustoleum flat black. Super cheap, and it really laid down nice.

We did several patch panels to take care of rust in the lower quarters, welded up some trim holes, a little filler here and there to take care of dimples, and laid down a coat of high-build primer to block it out straight. With the Rustoleum flat, you can block it down with 220, and once over quick with 320 (which is faster than going to 400). I was really surprised at well it laid down, and just like Hot Rod said, it looks bad at first when spraying.... but when it cures out it covers really well and looks great. You have to sand a little finer (400) to use the semi-gloss that we experimented with.

I know guys who paint are saying "Rustoleum, WTF?!"    I thought the same, but but it made a believer out of me. I plan on shooting at least 1 more car with same process. 


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,82517.25.html

As far as forgiving....as with any paint job, you will see poor prep work with any dark color. I suppose you can get away with short cuts with flat white~!? The Rustoleum flat is definitely forgiving with the sandpaper grade.

Good luck.

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« Reply #2 on: December 26, 2011, 10:34:21 PM »

I did CB's in a semi flat black years ago and although not as picky as gloss black, it's close.  

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9459.0.html

Not what you would call forgiving.  White would be a better solution if things need to be hidden.  However with some high build  primer and a long block, you'll be absolutely fine.  As always it's in the details.  After block sanding don't forget to take your time on all the edges to make sure they are nice and crisp all the way around, those make or break the end result.  A total flat black will be somewhat more forgiving than satin, but it'll also look like a primered unfinished car more than anything else.  You're definitely on the right track with matting agent.  



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bill440rt
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« Reply #3 on: December 26, 2011, 10:44:50 PM »

Hey, thanks for the fast replies!!
Mike, I'll run that Rustoleum idea by him to see what he thinks. I'll have to check out that link, thanks!!  cheers

I'll admit, this is my first matte black overall job. I've done smaller areas, but this is a complete. Everyone I spoke with around here leaned towards a base/clear with a flattening agent vs single stage, because it'll provide a more uniform finish. Like you mentioned Dino, he's leaning more towards "satin" than "flat" to get away from the "primered/unfinished" look.

The body is pretty straight, & it still has the original paint on it (now silver). So, there's no filler on the car anywhere. After the high-build, maybe I'll cut it first with 320, then sand again with 400??
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« Reply #4 on: December 26, 2011, 10:51:22 PM »

When you add flattening agent to clear, it's still clear and will flow like clear.  A single stage is so easy to mess up it's not funny.  Two stage will also make life easier if ever repairs need to be done.

As far as dry sanding primer goes I always used 320 followed by 400 on a da sander.   Then I'd go over everything again with an 800 wet, paying special attention to the edges.  You can do this pretty fast, it sounds worse than it is.   icon_smile_big  If you would paint a metallic you'd best go up to a 1000 grit but 800 is perfect for satin black.
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« Reply #5 on: December 26, 2011, 11:26:45 PM »

I would add that the wetter you apply, the glossier the end result. Thin, numerous coats is best to keep it flat.
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« Reply #6 on: December 27, 2011, 06:37:30 AM »

When you add flattening agent to clear, it's still clear and will flow like clear.  A single stage is so easy to mess up it's not funny.  Two stage will also make life easier if ever repairs need to be done.

As far as dry sanding primer goes I always used 320 followed by 400 on a da sander.   Then I'd go over everything again with an 800 wet, paying special attention to the edges.  You can do this pretty fast, it sounds worse than it is.   icon_smile_big  If you would paint a metallic you'd best go up to a 1000 grit but 800 is perfect for satin black.

I would add that the wetter you apply, the glossier the end result. Thin, numerous coats is best to keep it flat.


 yesnod

 i've never used single 1k clear coat with matting additive , only ever used  2k MS & HS clear with matting additive , i always put more then the recommended percentage off matting additive in  , if your using HS almost 1:1 , i also tend to add 10% thinners with it  ,  1 or 2 coats max give it plenty of flash of time between coats , turn the temperature down if in a booth ( for large jobs ie repaints ) , then wack it up high to speed up flash off time , then back down to do a second coat , i just paint it like solid color or normal clear coat ! , although don't thump it on as heavy , hard to explain with out having the gun in your hand & painting it , but you get a feel how close or far or quick you need to move the gun
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bill440rt
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« Reply #7 on: December 27, 2011, 07:20:04 AM »

Cool, thanks!

The only dry sanding I'm planning on doing is just the initial buzz with the DA in prep for the hi-build primer. The rest will be blocked wet. I was going to finish it with 400 wet, then prior to painting apply a black wet-on-wet sealer. I figured that would take care of any 400-grit scratches easily. 400 wet still too rough? Or, maybe go 320 then 600??  scratchchin

I'm leaning very much towards base/clear with a flattening agent. I was going to lay out a few test panels, with progressively increased ratios of flattening agent in the clear. Then, we can compare them to see which one he likes best. It'll take the guesswork out of it.

I feel pretty confident in the application of it, it's basically like any other paint job just with a dull clear. It's gotta be CLEAN though, because there's no sanding or buffing any imperfections out.

Tan top, you're only giving it 1-2 coats?? I guess 2 coats would be fine if it's MS or HS clear. I'm so used to putting on extra coats for sanding & buffing, my last paintjob was 4 coats!  Shocked
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« Reply #8 on: December 27, 2011, 07:50:18 AM »

400 wet is too coarse, 600 is pushing it but it doesn't hurt to try.  That said, depending on the brand of sanding paper the 400 may be close to anothers 600 and the 600 may be closer to anothers 800.  Try it out, if you can see more than faint scratches when you're done then you know it wasn't fine enough. 

Very good idea to do a test run to find the sheen you want.  You can do the same to find out which grit to finish with.  Finish sand a scrap panel divided into three panes, sand one with 400, one with 600 and one with 800.  Now spray your desired base/clear mix and see what you got.  Be aware that the paint job will settle after a while, it will not show all imperfections right away, but two months down the road it'll sag and show every scratch, feather edge and whatever else wasn't pretty much perfect from the start.  My best advice, take your time.  Let everything dry as natural as possible.  If you need to apply a filler, don't touch it for a week.  Force drying may come back and bite you in the butt later on.  Like you said, there's no way to quickly sand and polish here.

Like Tan Top said, it's very hard to explain how to spray the clear but you'll know what he's talking about as soon as you start painting.  2 coats is ok with certain paints and I have to say I haven't painted in several years so products may have changed.  I used to go with one sticky coat and two wet behind it.  Never a thick coat, just wet enough to get the flow you need.
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bill440rt
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« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2011, 08:07:22 AM »

I hear ya. Maybe 600 then is a better choice? I'm so used to cutting & buffing everything for a slick as glass finish, and you can't do that with matte paint.
I would think a sealer should fill 600 grit scratches easily. I've covered 320-400 grit scratches before with it, so I feel safe.

Yeah, I haven't painted a complete car since my green '69, about 3 years or so now. That was in PPG. My local jobber is pretty good with advice, and always gives me tech sheets if I need them.
I'm looking forward to painting this car.

Now, the tainted question.... anyone want pics of this?? I know it's a Chevy & all...  eek  rofl
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« Reply #10 on: December 27, 2011, 09:20:14 AM »

I agree with you Bill, I would probably lean toward base/flat clear. I have used a single stage 'hot rod black' urethane on smaller stuff, and it has got to be sprayed consistent to get a nice uniform finish. With a single stage urethane the closer you spray its more semi-gloss, then the further away you spray it, it gets flatter. Don't get me wrong the 'HRB' single stage is a good paint, but painting an entire car, base/clear is probably the way to go.
Also I have read about using rustoleum and others using John Deere's Blitz Black, but with those paints I have also read there is no UV protection, and if the car is outside a lot, they will fade. I think they are both lacquer based products.

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« Reply #11 on: December 27, 2011, 11:20:47 AM »

I did CB's in a semi flat black years ago and although not as picky as gloss black, it's close.  

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9459.0.html

Not what you would call forgiving.  White would be a better solution if things need to be hidden.  However with some high build  primer and a long block, you'll be absolutely fine.  As always it's in the details.  After block sanding don't forget to take your time on all the edges to make sure they are nice and crisp all the way around, those make or break the end result.  A total flat black will be somewhat more forgiving than satin, but it'll also look like a primered unfinished car more than anything else.  You're definitely on the right track with matting agent.  











Got a question. What did you use for paint on CB's car?


Thanks Larry.
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« Reply #12 on: December 27, 2011, 02:21:51 PM »

That Rustoleum is oil or laquer or something and you can't change the color again without removing it all (incompatible). It will also fade rather quickly - but it's so cheap you can just respray on top of it. I've heard good things about the John Deere instrument panel black (do a Google search) as it's designed to be in the sun and holds its color well. I *think* it's compatible with B/C so you can paint over it. A local hot rodder here uses some paint on his cars that is also reasonably cheap and B/C compatible but I forgot to ask which brand. He says it is slightly more forgiving than gloss paint when it comes to body work - but only slightly. He said it may require one less blocking step.

Troy
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« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2011, 03:26:31 PM »

Rustoleum is an alkyd enamel. Has little UV protection & you'll find if left exposed to the sun it'll dull out. Which might not be a bad thing in this case!  rofl
I think it's OK on small parts & projects, but for this car I'm sticking with automotive-grade refinishing products (Evercoat, Dupont, etc). It's his dime, & he wants a quality job.
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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2011, 04:36:10 PM »

Bill,starting with your primer,if you are using a high build,and you know I use PPG vs. Dupont so I can't say I know their product,but unless you have a real nice primer gun,I have a Sata BF 100 with a 1.7 tip,the way it going to atomize for you might be rough,with that,unless you get the primer to lay out real flat,you should be sanding it with at least 240 and nothing finer to start.320 is just going to ride along the surface and not really "plane " through the primer to cut it and no matter how far you keep sanding,will be a orange peely substrate you are going to apply that sealer and BC/CC matte finish on.
 If your going to use a sealer,again what I use in PPG will fill up 600 grit ,but def do not stop at 400.Remember this is going to be a finish that you will not be able to sand/buff imperfections out of,such as sanding scratches that sank in after settling has occured.
 You are on the right track with the finish being done in BC/CC as per all my PPG rep buddys,for some reason DCC single stage does not flatten the same as their BC/CC,therefore they always do it in Base/clear.NTM,hope you are doing it in a booth,just the same,you get dirt,dust,runs in it,you can't fix them.
 Thats why I love PPG's 2060 "flex-n-flat clear",you can put it on sort-of aggressive,it dries rather quickly,and when it does is perfectly uniform looking,looks nice and "tight" without orange peel.
 Have fun,good luck,yes post pics,you know how we are !!! Cheesy
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« Reply #15 on: December 27, 2011, 07:09:35 PM »


Tan top, you're only giving it 1-2 coats?? I guess 2 coats would be fine if it's MS or HS clear. I'm so used to putting on extra coats for sanding & buffing, my last paintjob was 4 coats!  Shocked


 yeah 4 coats  ok normal solid 2k even MS  ,  when i done my charger used  2k  with a  MS hardener & gave it a light grip coat  then gave it 4 coats.

 yesnod whats  been said in above posts , good awesome advice & info yesnod

 below is just what i have found
  with the number of different paint brands i've used ,  mixing up matt clear coat  &  or matt top coat /textured  or satin clear coat  for modern bumpers & body mouldings etc etc .  found the more coats you give it , the shinyer it becomes  scratchchin
  even normal 2k  matt or textured 2  coats , MS same , with  HS  i tired the recommended single coat , well half  coat  / light grip coat & hit it with a full wet one straight away  ,  works awesome for solids & clear , but  its crap if your trying to paint matt clear coat or solid ,  ok enough of my waffling  ,  could always  get a scrap hood or sheet of metal , do a few full size spray outs  , see what technique works best for you ,
 
 remember its got to be gun finish with this gear , no de nibbing dust & stuff  & if you get a run  your finished  , cant blade it & block it , then  mop it  ,  cause then then that bit will be shinyer than the rest
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« Reply #16 on: December 27, 2011, 08:31:06 PM »

Bill, IMHO if you are going to block it at all. I would lay down 4 coats of poly surfacer,block that down and then reprime with 2k primer surfacer. Block that in stages up to 500-600 seal and shoot with base clear.
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« Reply #17 on: December 27, 2011, 08:53:14 PM »


Got a question. What did you use for paint on CB's car?


Thanks Larry.


I wish I could tell you but it's been over 6 years since I did that car and I honestly can't remember.  It wasn't from any of the big brands.  Our supplier mentioned he had some of this paint and could give it to us at low cost.  I believe it was normally used in industrial applications as it was tough as nails.  It was a pita to paint but turned out pretty good.

If you want to mimick that paint simply take a base black and a clear with flattening agent.  Keep a fair amount of gloss in it, a bit more than satin and you'll have it.






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« Reply #18 on: December 27, 2011, 09:46:21 PM »

Just got back in from more sanding. Thanks all for the replies!  cheers

Brian, I was really hoping to avoid spraying poly on it. I keep telling myself, "race car, NOT a show car, RACE car, NOT a show car..."  smilielol
The car really has straight original sheetmetal. Other than the factory seams, there's NO filler anywhere on it. The 2k primer we're using is Evercoat Uro-Fill. If you've ever used DuPont's ol' standby Uro-Prime, this has GOT to be the same stuff. I used it on my '69, actually. Worked REALLY well. Sprays, smells, fills, & sands the same, at about 1/2 the price.
I was hoping to give it 3-4 coats of the stuff (it's really thick), and then block with 220->400->600.

Paul, tell me more about this PPG 2060 clear!! Can you adjust the gloss with a flattening agent? Or is it ready to spray with only one gloss level?
I have an HVLP gravity feed primer gun (swap meet special) with a 2.0 tip. Works well for poly & hi-builds. I use an old standby JGA for base, & a SATA non-HVLP gravity feed for clears.
We'll be doing all the priming & painting of the jambs in his home garage (I want to use speed clear for this), and he's arranged a booth at a local tech school he is friendly with.
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« Reply #19 on: December 27, 2011, 10:02:08 PM »

Another Thumbs up for the 2060 flexed n flat. Real nice product and yes it can be adjusted to more gloss by adding other ppg clears.
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« Reply #20 on: December 27, 2011, 10:44:13 PM »

Another Thumbs up for the 2060 flexed n flat. Real nice product and yes it can be adjusted to more gloss by adding other ppg clears.


Thanks! I googled it & have been reading up on it for the last hour or so. Looks like I gotta stop by my PPG jobber!
You can add it to other PPG clears to get different gloss levels? Good to know.  cheers
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« Reply #21 on: December 28, 2011, 09:16:09 AM »


Got a question. What did you use for paint on CB's car?


Thanks Larry.


I wish I could tell you but it's been over 6 years since I did that car and I honestly can't remember.  It wasn't from any of the big brands.  Our supplier mentioned he had some of this paint and could give it to us at low cost.  I believe it was normally used in industrial applications as it was tough as nails.  It was a pita to paint but turned out pretty good.

If you want to mimick that paint simply take a base black and a clear with flattening agent.  Keep a fair amount of gloss in it, a bit more than satin and you'll have it.













Thank you.




That Rustoleum is oil or laquer or something and you can't change the color again without removing it all (incompatible). It will also fade rather quickly - but it's so cheap you can just respray on top of it. I've heard good things about the John Deere instrument panel black (do a Google search) as it's designed to be in the sun and holds its color well. I *think* it's compatible with B/C so you can paint over it. A local hot rodder here uses some paint on his cars that is also reasonably cheap and B/C compatible but I forgot to ask which brand. He says it is slightly more forgiving than gloss paint when it comes to body work - but only slightly. He said it may require one less blocking step.

Troy








Somebody had to say it. The Rustoleum won't hold up in my opinion. Within a year an a half it started fadeing on the car in my avatar. Plus, I started getting what appears to be water stains running down the side's of the vehicle.  After cleaning the car and wipeing it down with WD-40 it revitalized the paint to were it almost looked new again. But as soon as the car got wet from doing a car wash it wen't wright back to how it had been.

Troy, are you talking about John Deer Blitz Black?

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/John_Deere_Blitz_Black_paint   

I'm wondering how it would hold up with the hardner catalist.

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« Reply #22 on: December 28, 2011, 09:39:14 AM »

Yep, it's the Blitz black. It's been a while since I read up on all the flat black paint so I've forgotten most of it. A lot of rat rod and off road guys use it.

Troy
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« Reply #23 on: December 29, 2011, 10:55:54 AM »

Quote
Somebody had to say it. The Rustoleum won't hold up in my opinion. Within a year an a half it started fadeing on the car in my avatar. Plus, I started getting what appears to be water stains running down the side's of the vehicle.  After cleaning the car and wipeing it down with WD-40 it revitalized the paint to were it almost looked new again. But as soon as the car got wet from doing a car wash it wen't wright back to how it had been.

 


As with anything, you typically get what you pay for. For a budget-minded race car that sits in a garage most of the year except when at the track, it would be the perfect paint.

The car we shot with Rustoleum is driven year round and sits outside. It collects door dings, paint chips, and rust. When and if it starts looking too ragged our plan is to scuff it and shoot another coat on it. I suppose in year I'll be able to report on it's durability and appearance, but either way it was the right paint for that car.

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« Reply #24 on: January 01, 2012, 12:10:00 PM »

OK, "as requested", here are some progress pics. Just a warning, yes I know it's a Chevy. I apologize if this is offensive to anyone.  Wink

All the bodywork is completed, which was minimal. Here are some just prior to primer. These were taken yesterday, we got everything finished & the car primed.


* Malibu 002 (Small).jpg (45.7 KB, 640x480 - viewed 7140 times.)

* Malibu 003 (Small).jpg (38.48 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6753 times.)

* Malibu 004 (Small).jpg (32.74 KB, 640x480 - viewed 5908 times.)

* Malibu 005 (Small).jpg (34.42 KB, 640x480 - viewed 5759 times.)
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« Reply #25 on: January 01, 2012, 12:14:08 PM »

OK, car has been primed, & guide-coated. I was really hoping to use Evercoat's Uro-Fill, but the jobber sold him some Nason 2K. It worked OK, not as good as the Uro-fill, but I think it'll do the job. Everything was given 3 coats except the roof which was given 2. The roof didn't need any work.

I'm meeting with a paint rep on Tuesday to discuss PPG, & other options. We'll start blocking & jambing it out soon.


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« Reply #26 on: January 01, 2012, 02:08:30 PM »

Nice Work, Bill  2thumbs Doesn't bother me that its a Chevy.... I love looking at bodywork/paint pics no matter what type of vehicle it is.

Thanks for sharing,
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« Reply #27 on: January 01, 2012, 06:01:00 PM »


 
     It doe's look really straight.   yesnod
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« Reply #28 on: January 01, 2012, 06:31:31 PM »

 coolgleamA   popcrn
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« Reply #29 on: March 26, 2012, 07:15:40 AM »

Well, we finally got the Malibu painted last weekend now that winter is behind us.
I jambed it out for him the previous weekend. We decided to use PPG. Paint process consisted of black DP primer mixed as a sealer, black DBU basecoat, and 2060 Flexed-n-Flat clear. I laid out some test panels, one with straight F-n-F clear and the other cocktailed with some 2002 Concept Clear as an eggshell mix. Straight F-n-F clear is VERY flat, no gloss at all. The eggshell mix was a VERY nice satin finish, so my friend decided on that. It's a weird mix, ratio is 9.5-parts F-n-F to 1-part 2002 clear, then reduced & hardener added.

I've never shot an overall flat job before, so I can say now that the base/clear was totally the right way to go. This is AWESOME stuff!  yesnod
VERY easy to use to achieve a uniform finish. Just had to watch to make sure each batch was mixed exactly, and to lay it on evenly & watch your spray gun overlap. (Brian & Paul, THANKS!!  cheers )

Paint job consisted of one coat of black sealer, two coats of black DBU base, and then two coats of F-n-F clear. Sprayed at 70*, baked for 1/2 hour at 140*. Paint was still a little soft, so we let it dry overnight after the bake cycle.
Here's how it looked in the booth, and then when we pulled it out the next morning. I'll try to get some other pics too when he has it back together.


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« Reply #30 on: March 26, 2012, 07:17:44 AM »

A few more...  popcrn



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« Reply #31 on: March 26, 2012, 07:38:00 AM »

Perfect sheen, good job!   2thumbs
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« Reply #32 on: March 26, 2012, 09:44:40 AM »

Looks like an NOS Malibu, Or e-coat. Awesome job Bill!
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« Reply #33 on: March 26, 2012, 04:54:37 PM »

What would be the cost to have a paint job like that done? And how would it be in the rain?,,,nice job!!!
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« Reply #34 on: March 26, 2012, 04:56:35 PM »

Nice work Bill  2thumbs


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« Reply #35 on: March 26, 2012, 05:02:29 PM »

 scope  nice  yesnod
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« Reply #36 on: March 26, 2012, 05:57:35 PM »

I expected nothing less 

Awesome work bud cheers
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« Reply #37 on: March 26, 2012, 06:06:10 PM »

Looks real nice Bill,great job!!!!!! cheers Was wondering how you were gonna like the 2060,glad to see you like it. 2thumbs
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« Reply #38 on: March 26, 2012, 06:59:56 PM »

Hey guys, thanks!
Paul & Brian, thanks for the tip-off on the 2060. Damn, that is some NICE stuff to use! Hardest part was just dialing in a mix to see what sheen my friend liked. But even that was easy because I used one of PPG's mix ratios so it worked out. Yeah Brian, it DOES kinda look like e-coat, but it's just a tad on the flat side from it.

Chris, maybe this might come in handy for some V21?  scratchchin  whistling  icon_smile_wink  2thumbs

Thanks Jason, TT, & Dino!  2thumbs

Dean, cost depends on a lot of factors: prep work involved/body work, labor cost/market area, size of the car, etc. Too many factors.
I can say that as far as materials, he purchased 2 quarts of DP primer, 3 quarts of DBU base, and 3 quarts of clear, not to mention the hardeners/reducers to go along with it. Tab on that was about $750 give or take. But, we had 1 quart of DP & 1 quart of base left over so he can return those back. That also doesn't include primers or other misc materials (tape, sandpaper, etc etc etc).
It is a clear just like other modern urethanes just pre-flattened, so it will hold up to the elements best.


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« Reply #39 on: March 28, 2012, 02:48:51 AM »

Good Lord man.  Listening to you guys talk body work 'tech is like listening to people speaking in a different language.  Hats off to all of you, especially you Bill, that's a great looking car...
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« Reply #40 on: March 28, 2012, 06:25:56 AM »

It came out good Bill!  Nice work. cheers
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« Reply #41 on: April 10, 2012, 03:48:22 PM »

Awesome!! Looks great. Now do the same thing with my GN. LOL
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« Reply #42 on: April 10, 2012, 03:51:13 PM »

Looks great, I love the Hot Rod Black look...
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« Reply #43 on: April 10, 2012, 04:02:06 PM »

Looks Bitchin' Bill!!!! I likey!!!  2thumbs
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« Reply #44 on: April 11, 2012, 05:29:07 AM »

So, WTF Bill, it looks like it runs deep in 9's @ around 140 Plus...What the hell is in it? SB, BB, LS?
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« Reply #45 on: April 11, 2012, 09:50:51 PM »

So, WTF Bill, it looks like it runs deep in 9's @ around 140 Plus...What the hell is in it? SB, BB, LS?

Hey, Cooter!  wave  (Did they get rid of that ignore feature on here already??)   icon_smile_wink  (Yes, I'm really kidding again!)
See the first post.


I'm helping a neighbor friend of mine paint his '81 Malibu 2-dr hardtop. This is NOT a show car, it is primarily a race car but can be street driven. It's powered by a 454 with nitrous, and it'll run very low-10's in the 1/4. He wants it painted matte black.



454 BBC with nitrous. Low 10-sec car. However, it also has a full interior & that is thru the mufflers, and it is street driven. He is one of the track announcers here at the legendary Old Bridge Raceway Park. He drives it to the track, races it, then drives it home.


Awesome!! Looks great. Now do the same thing with my GN. LOL

You near NJ, SRT??   scratchchin cheers

He's almost done putting the rest of it back together. Looks really good now with the bumpers, grille, etc back on it. I can try to get some final pics up if any of you guys are interested.
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« Reply #46 on: April 12, 2012, 10:55:35 AM »

Nope...I'm in Arkansas. My cars biggest problem is little dings and dents...looks like the previous owner set the hood on the roof while installing the motor...little dents comparable to hail damage but not random.
The doors also are wavey...ugh...so it needs lotsa love before any paint can go on.

But looks like u did a amazing job making sure this car is nice and straight!
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« Reply #47 on: April 12, 2012, 08:35:51 PM »

Your 'flat black' paint is better than some people's 'show cars!'  Outstanding work, just goes to show how proper prep makes the best results.

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« Reply #48 on: April 13, 2012, 05:52:15 AM »

Quote


Hey, Cooter!  wave  (Did they get rid of that ignore feature on here already??)   icon_smile_wink  (Yes, I'm really kidding again!)
See the first post.



Nope, I can still see pictures and from the other responses, your name kept coming up. But, I think I will "allow" you again. Seems time I guess. angel









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« Reply #49 on: April 13, 2012, 08:56:31 PM »

 shruggy
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« Reply #50 on: April 14, 2012, 09:53:28 PM »

That car looks great!! Nice job Bill!  2thumbs
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« Reply #51 on: April 15, 2012, 01:49:20 AM »

Great work Bill!

Always expect nothing less, your way to modest!
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« Reply #52 on: April 15, 2012, 10:57:22 AM »

I agree with you Bill, I would probably lean toward base/flat clear. I have used a single stage 'hot rod black' urethane on smaller stuff, and it has got to be sprayed consistent to get a nice uniform finish. With a single stage urethane the closer you spray its more semi-gloss, then the further away you spray it, it gets flatter. Don't get me wrong the 'HRB' single stage is a good paint, but painting an entire car, base/clear is probably the way to go.
Also I have read about using rustoleum and others using John Deere's Blitz Black, but with those paints I have also read there is no UV protection, and if the car is outside a lot, they will fade. I think they are both lacquer based products.

Jason
ppg makes a flat clear caled flat and flexed. i use it on flexible pars   but could be used on a complete.   so if  your substrate is moving around under heat whatever it won't crack. and it holds up well .
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« Reply #53 on: April 16, 2012, 07:42:09 AM »

Great work Bill!

Always expect nothing less, your way to modest!


Hey Frank, thanks! Good seeing you when you stopped down. How's that HEMI coming along??  scratchchin

Tom, yes Flexed-n-Flat is what I used for clear, cocktailed with 2002 for an eggshell finish.

So, just a little update here (no pun intended). My buddy called me over the other night, wanted to show me the progress on the car. He presented me with this little awesome piece of work. Unbeknownst to me, the whole time we were working on this car he was busy building this Charger to show his thanks. VERY cool!
It is a model Charger in paint prep stage. The car is in guide coat & being blocked, half of it is block sanded with sanding sludge on it & masked off, it is very detailed! He really did a great job on it, pics & words do not do it justice. I was completely blown away he would take the time to do something like this. It's in a nice clear display case, & resides in a nice spot on my shelf.
Awesome!


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