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Author Topic: Block sanding question  (Read 35781 times)
elitecustombody
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« Reply #225 on: June 05, 2012, 09:50:06 AM »

At this point it's hard to determine if it's base or clear that is causing the solvent pop,but usually it's the clear, if you let the base sit 25 -30 minutes before shooting clear and allowed 10-15 minutes between color coats,then it's the clear. But regardless where it's coming from,you have to let it breathe for a week before any material is going to be applied over it. I strongly advise to wait and then shoot more clear.As long as your base is on nice and even without blotches and mottling ,that's all you need. Buy slowest hardener for the clear.That way it will flow out much nicer and will allow solvents to escape before hardening up
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Stefan
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« Reply #226 on: June 05, 2012, 10:00:44 AM »

Yes I sprayed thin coats of base because of the metallic and let it sit 10 minutes between each coat. Then I waited almost 2 hours before clear, then 2 thin coats with 10 minutes between. Halfway through the 3rd coat of clear I realized that I needed to slow the gun movement way down to let the clear flow. So basically there is one full wet coat of clear which was the last coat.
Thanks for the advice. I have a friend that can spray in his booth, the problem is the booth is enormous for spraying semi trailers and my garage probably has less dust in it..
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elitecustombody
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« Reply #227 on: June 05, 2012, 11:39:42 AM »

Prep it and have your friend come over and shoot few coats of clear ,but get the slowest hardener for the clear this time
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« Reply #228 on: June 14, 2012, 02:16:06 PM »

Decided I had enough of this project for awhile. So instead of spraying again I just sanded it down quick to 1500 and then buffed.
The solvent pop left little crater's so it really needs to be sanded and cleared again but it's kind of a good thing because I'm a little disappointed in the color.
This silver is cool up close but otherwise it just basically looks gray. So I'm thinking next winter when the engine is out, I'll add some bigger flake to the clear or maybe tint it?
But for now I'm just going to enjoy it the rest of the summer.



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7chargers
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« Reply #229 on: June 14, 2012, 02:28:41 PM »

I think it looks really good considering you did it yourself. I'm sure you learned alot during the process to make it alittle nice next time. Some chrome rims with that Silver and I think the color will grown on you. Nice to see another good looking Wisconsin Charger!  2thumbs cheers
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Dino
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« Reply #230 on: June 14, 2012, 03:38:57 PM »

I know your tired of it, been there and done that many times but think this through.  You will feel just the same when you start it in the winter.  I would sit down, have a cold beer and go for it.  Sand it down and start over, it won't be nearly as much work as it was before or as it will be later.  You won't regret it.
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« Reply #231 on: June 14, 2012, 03:47:46 PM »

It will be better for all of the solvents etc to escape from the finish before you add more to it anyway. A few months will be gone before you know it.
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« Reply #232 on: June 14, 2012, 04:45:39 PM »

I too, rotz been there.. Going to re shoot all the cars at some point. Where is that point anyway? Body work looks good.
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« Reply #233 on: June 14, 2012, 11:21:18 PM »

Some advise, Next time don't use a high solids clear. You'll find it lays down much better. Twocents Twocents LEON.
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1BAD68
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« Reply #234 on: June 17, 2012, 03:32:41 PM »

I want to thank everyone on here that offered their advice on my project  cheers
Took the Charger to a Fathers day "Wings & Wheels" show today and got a lot of really nice compliments on the car.
It's not perfect but I must say the body is really straight (at least it looks that way to me) and the color looks way better in person.
Here's a couple pictures from the show.





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« Reply #235 on: June 17, 2012, 03:37:33 PM »

 2thumbs
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« Reply #236 on: June 17, 2012, 03:43:25 PM »

Looks good mang! Enjoy it..  coolgleamA
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« Reply #237 on: June 17, 2012, 09:28:38 PM »

nice job. in the last pic it looked like you added cop lights. smilielol  it displays great. pat yourself on the back. yesnod
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« Reply #238 on: June 18, 2012, 08:25:41 PM »

Hey the looks great. 2thumbs
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superbirdtom
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« Reply #239 on: June 20, 2012, 08:31:04 AM »

I want to thank everyone on here that offered their advice on my project  cheers
Took the Charger to a Fathers day "Wings & Wheels" show today and got a lot of really nice compliments on the car.
It's not perfect but I must say the body is really straight (at least it looks that way to me) and the color looks way better in person.
Here's a couple pictures from the show.







  looks go  enjoy it  adn think how  muc youve learned  and have the title of true hobbyest doing it all yourself.
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AirborneSilva
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« Reply #240 on: June 20, 2012, 12:43:26 PM »

Wow, if that was your first attempt at blocking and painting you should be proud of yourself, looks good  2thumbs  Now come help me do mine  icon_smile_big
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doitmopar
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« Reply #241 on: June 21, 2012, 10:26:32 AM »

It looks like you're a natural 2thumbs
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69finder
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« Reply #242 on: July 09, 2012, 09:53:24 PM »

I think you did a great job.  At least you are out enjoying your car!  At some time you have to draw the line!

I was going to suggest 1200 DA (I've saved a few clears like that) but now, I wouldn't touch it!  Drive it! Smiley  Very jealous btw!
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cdr
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« Reply #243 on: August 16, 2012, 09:43:28 AM »

from the pics i think you did a great job  2thumbs 2thumbs
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« Reply #244 on: August 16, 2012, 05:28:06 PM »

Hey, that car looks pretty good from where I am sitting. I also have a similar problem, way way to much clear on the car. overall the paint was pretty poor with spotting, striping and water spots (I should have painted it myself!) but until I can afford to repaint it I am just going to try and wet sand the clear and buff it and make do with the results. The car was painted on 9-10-11. For the next 3-4 weeks I pushed it out into the sun and let it bake every chance possible. It has since been sitting in my garage untouched. My question is with so much clear on the car, and after sitting that long what would be the best grit paper for wet sanding it? I am familiar with the process involved from my time working at the body shop. This car is purely for my driving enjoyment and will never be entered into any car show so it doesn't need to be "show quality" Just looking for some experienced advice on how to proceed from here. I would post pics but the car is "buried" behind a mountain of other stuff in my garage. Thanks in advance for any advice!
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« Reply #245 on: August 16, 2012, 08:27:36 PM »

There's some really useful info in this tread.your car looks great,question about the 3M guide stuff with the weird applicator .I like the way it looked on your car .I could see the low spots.were you able to see high spots with that stuff?and also were do you find sand paper 16 inchs long?
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73charger440
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« Reply #246 on: August 16, 2012, 08:30:59 PM »

How do you think this block would work?    http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-block-98167.html
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Cooter
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« Reply #247 on: August 16, 2012, 09:17:14 PM »

Bottom line is this.....YOU sprayed that car and did the block sanding...Job VERY well done indeed. Looks a million. All those late nights with sore arms from blocking paid off bro.
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« Reply #248 on: August 17, 2012, 06:24:26 AM »

and also were do you find sand paper 16 inchs long?

I get a lot of my supplies through Eastwood. The local paint shop wanted $62.00 for the same roll of sandpaper.

http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/sandpaper.html
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« Reply #249 on: August 17, 2012, 06:29:20 AM »

.I could see the low spots.were you able to see high spots with that stuff?

The guide coat is used to highlight the low spots. THe high spots will appear as you sand with the long block because you will take all the primer off the high spots exposing the metal. Block sanding is an art which I have yet to master.
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