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Vacuum headlight doors operated from solenoid valves now

Started by ncmiller1, March 16, 2012, 06:37:56 PM

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ncmiller1

I recently rewired my '68 Charger using a Ron Francis wiring setup and his kit uses an aftermarket headlight switch, which meant that I had to use my old headlight switch to operate the vacuum headlight doors, and the new switch to turn on the headlights.  This was very annoying, but since I planned on doing a complete custom dash (and my old headlight switch had a huge vacuum leak) I wanted to keep the new headlight switch.  While the dash revamp hasn't quite got off the ground yet, I did finally wire up a couple of solenoid valves powered by the wire to the headlights so that when I turn the lights on, the doors go open without having to utilize the old switch.

First, I bought two 12v 3-way 2-position solenoid valves for about $15 each (model 3V1-06).

Second, I attached 3/16 brass hose fittings to the appropriate inlets/outlets on the valves.

Third, I made a bracket connecting the two valves and mounted them underneath the battery tray.

I didn't have any diodes around so I wasn't able to use two sources of power yet (low and high beam power).  This means that until I fix it, the doors are only open when the regular low beam lights are selected.

After connecting the vacuum tubes, all worked well!  No more vacuum lines going into the cab of the car, and no more vacuum leak.  Since my Charger isn't an all original factory car, this was a nice upgrade.  Now if only I could dive into the whole custom dash project...  Anyway, hope this is at least an interesting read for some of you!





Plumcrazy

Looks like a nice high tech fix.  :yesnod:

But as a 70 owner I don't need it.  :cheers:

It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

A383Wing

I came up with a similar switch years ago...sold a few and still running mine on the Daytona...

you don't need diodes...all you need is to hook your 12v positive lead to the center terminal in your dimmer switch..it will have power all the time when headlights are on and does not matter if low or high beams are on

Bryan

ncmiller1

Thanks for the tip A383Wing!  I will rewire it with that lead, since that will be way easier than incorporating a bunch of diodes

A383Wing

that's where I have my power wire for my solenoid switch tapped into

Bryan

tracpack440

Quote from: A383Wing on March 16, 2012, 10:00:47 PM
I came up with a similar switch years ago...sold a few and still running mine on the Daytona...

you don't need diodes...all you need is to hook your 12v positive lead to the center terminal in your dimmer switch..it will have power all the time when headlights are on and does not matter if low or high beams are on

Bryan

Great idea. Do you still have more of the switches for sale.  Or know a part number and where i can buy one,
Thanks mike.
1969 Charger  R/T SE 4 spd dana

A383Wing

I don't have anymore...have not sold one for years now...mainly because my switch was about $150 and there are reproduction vacuum switches now for the 68-69 Chargers that attach to the original headlight switch

Bryan

tracpack440

Thanks for the reply. I just bought a repro vacuum switch. I havnt installed it yet but i will soon.
thanks.
1969 Charger  R/T SE 4 spd dana

crzyc68

Do you have any other photos of how the solenoids are connected together and what fittings were used? 

ncmiller1

Here is a terrible drawing of how I connected the 2 solenoids.  I cut off the head of a bolt to connect the two together because those ports needed to be blocked off anyway, then I used brass air hose nipples (can't remember where I purchased them) for the other ports. 

crzyc68