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Author Topic: How to do a 4 speed swap...with pictures!  (Read 120645 times)
hemi68charger
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« Reply #25 on: January 22, 2013, 07:44:26 AM »

Great write up Chief.......
Maybe I'll do this if I keep my 500... Well, I WILL if I keep the 500.. I have all the necessary items for the conversion... '69-style........
You'll LOVE it!

Oh yeah.... My former 500 was a 4speed car and it was so much fun........   2thumbs
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Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
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GPULLER
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« Reply #26 on: January 22, 2013, 10:20:57 AM »

What about a pilot bushing?  Read somewhere about some sort of conversion bushing for cranks that aren't drilled for them.  Anybody know anything about that?
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Cooter
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« Reply #27 on: January 22, 2013, 11:06:42 AM »

What about a pilot bushing?  Read somewhere about some sort of conversion bushing for cranks that aren't drilled for them.  Anybody know anything about that?

Yes, there is some talk about using a later model "Dakota" truck pilot bearing. However, you must modify the input of your trans by cutting off the excess length and I personally don't like doing that, but it works. The bearing drives into the converter register instead of the original hole that isn't there.
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moparstuart
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« Reply #28 on: January 22, 2013, 12:22:44 PM »

What about a pilot bushing?  Read somewhere about some sort of conversion bushing for cranks that aren't drilled for them.  Anybody know anything about that?

Yes, there is some talk about using a later model "Dakota" truck pilot bearing. However, you must modify the input of your trans by cutting off the excess length and I personally don't like doing that, but it works. The bearing drives into the converter register instead of the original hole that isn't there.
  Dakota roller bearing just used it on my  viper tranny install  , but my crank was already drilled for a manual tranny so no drilling of crank or cutting of the tranny shaft 


* dakota roller bearing.jpg (26.96 KB, 360x480 - viewed 4109 times.)
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AKcharger
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« Reply #29 on: January 22, 2013, 03:21:25 PM »



One quick question - will the existing driveshaft from my 383 column shift work with a 440 - 833 combo, or will I have to have it modified?

 

Nope, it's the same 100%. Column shift or console makes no difference. Only thing you'll find weird sometimes is if you swap out the rear end chunk, you'll find big yokes and small yokes.  But still not an issue, just have to get a diffrent u- joint that fits both. I ran into that when I swapped my center section last time.
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AKcharger
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« Reply #30 on: January 22, 2013, 03:27:26 PM »

I ran into the crank problem...failed to mention that. It's a '67 steel crank and I understood all steel cranks were fine for manuals, but still the input shaft was too long. We simply hacked off about 3/8 from the input shaft with a sawzall®, beveled the edges a bit  and it fit fine with no issues. Don't recall if we used a special pilot bushing. as you can see the missing 3/8 is hardly noticeable




* 2012-10-05 21.29.26.jpg (181.04 KB, 1296x968 - viewed 1373 times.)
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rick
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« Reply #31 on: February 17, 2013, 08:50:02 PM »

I am planning to do this on my 69 charger pulling out the 383 and 727 and putting in  a 426 4 speed I'm in ne, where r u I'm might need some help going to do it next winter
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Troy
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« Reply #32 on: February 17, 2013, 09:17:20 PM »

I am planning to do this on my 69 charger pulling out the 383 and 727 and putting in  a 426 4 speed I'm in ne, where r u I'm might need some help going to do it next winter
AK is in AK (Alaska). Smiley

Troy
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AKcharger
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« Reply #33 on: February 18, 2013, 11:33:35 PM »

Yeah, lol, Troy is correct. So either move up here to Alaska or Im always available her to help :-)
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moparstuart
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« Reply #34 on: February 19, 2013, 08:21:55 AM »

I am planning to do this on my 69 charger pulling out the 383 and 727 and putting in  a 426 4 speed I'm in ne, where r u I'm might need some help going to do it next winter
if your going to a hemi , you might consider doing a tremec 5 speed manual as you dont have to add the tranny hump and just cut one hole for the top loader shifter to come through . You can still use most of the other stock 4 speed stuff or upgrade to a hydrolic clutch also .  With the 5 speed its just for the most part a bolt in deal .
 Twocents
   
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mikeydf14
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« Reply #35 on: February 20, 2013, 06:50:58 AM »

Well Bill she sure looks different from the last time I saw it about 6 years ago.  The pics look like it was done while you still lived in Hampton right?  I found a pic of our Chargers together at Langley, AFB after we did two laps around the track.  Had a fun time that day.  Great job on the conversion.  I am ambitious but not that ambitious!!! 
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mikeydf14
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« Reply #36 on: February 20, 2013, 06:54:42 AM »

Looks like you replaced your carpet too. That's next on my car. Maybe start that effort sometime next week. First time for everything!
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darkside
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« Reply #37 on: February 22, 2013, 03:43:21 PM »

Do you have any pics of the clutch rod and  zbar bell crank  mounted on car?I'll be doing the swap this year and need to see were to install rod and z bar  crank on frame  ,already have motor and trans out of car.thanks
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AKcharger
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« Reply #38 on: February 22, 2013, 04:34:38 PM »

Here ya' go Darkside, I swipped this pics from some other posts. Thing to keep in mind is ALL cars have the cut-out for the z-bar bolt access but not the bracket. Simply make sure the bracket is aligned with the hole. Having the engine out should make a lot of the process go very smooth!
 I'm heading back down to do more work on the car in April, so if you need any specific pics let me know & I'll be sure to get them for you




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darkside
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« Reply #39 on: February 22, 2013, 08:24:57 PM »

thanks!
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fizz
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« Reply #40 on: March 08, 2013, 03:08:50 PM »

So, I just got done marking out for the 4 speed hump and noticed the rear of the hump is over the support brace/hat channel that goes accross the floor and up andthrough the tunnel. When I cut the floor out it will expose this support in the rear of the hole, as shown in the pictures of this thread. How is this finished, or is the top of the hat channel left open in the hole?
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Troy
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« Reply #41 on: March 09, 2013, 09:38:04 AM »

So, I just got done marking out for the 4 speed hump and noticed the rear of the hump is over the support brace/hat channel that goes accross the floor and up andthrough the tunnel. When I cut the floor out it will expose this support in the rear of the hole, as shown in the pictures of this thread. How is this finished, or is the top of the hat channel left open in the hole?
You don't cut or expose the support. Here's a picture of mine. The shiny areas (and the black magic marker line if you can see it) are where the "hump" sits and will be welded.



Troy
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fizz
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« Reply #42 on: March 09, 2013, 12:27:40 PM »

Thanks, so there is a cavity above the support inside the hump, obviously
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AKcharger
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« Reply #43 on: March 09, 2013, 01:04:00 PM »

Correct Fizz, if you use the hump as a templet that support will be exposed but will be covered when the hump is welded on so it's a non-issue. Troy made a more Conservative cut so his looks neater than mine. Either way you go you'll be fine
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chargercrazed
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« Reply #44 on: April 01, 2013, 10:15:10 AM »

AKcharger, Interior looks great. What paint did you use for the console? I have been unable to find a good burnt orange console probably will have to dye a different colored one.
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AKcharger
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« Reply #45 on: April 02, 2013, 08:00:18 PM »

Hi Crazed

I went to a local paint shop and had them mix some SEM interior paint it for me...THIS IS THE WAY TO GO. Any reputable paint shop will be able to match your existing color. I had a place called "Hopps" in Hampton VA matched the B/O you see here and the Bright Blue metallic for my '72 and it was spot on. You do not need a "Dye" simple clean console, spray on plastic adhesion promotor and you're all set!

As far as commercial sources like MOpaint I’d avoid them. They’re all over the place in the color match department, sometimes good, sometimes bad and customer service is poor. Here’s my experience:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4206.msg50381.html#msg50381
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darkside
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« Reply #46 on: June 02, 2013, 03:33:52 PM »

I have a question about the z- bar bracket ,if you look at my pic the  bottom of bracket has a  slot that dips  down  were it lays on the frame .Is that dip supposed to go inside the top of frame  or give it lift ? Bracket doesn't lay flust on top of frame . I want to make sure its right before welding.thanks
http://carphotos4.cardomain.com/images/0016/49/64/16229446_large.jpg
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/49/94/16229449_large.jpg
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BIGBLCK11
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. . . . .


« Reply #47 on: June 02, 2013, 07:53:30 PM »

You have to grind that tab off for a 2nd gen., so it will be flat.  I 'think' the 3rd gens use it, so it is on there to work with either car. 
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AKcharger
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« Reply #48 on: June 03, 2013, 09:34:27 AM »

 iagree

Yeah I don't recall my bracket having that tab thingy
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darkside
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« Reply #49 on: June 04, 2013, 02:05:38 PM »

does this look correct? kinda hard to locate perfect spot going by pics.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/91/39/16231993_large.jpg

http://carphotos3.cardomain.com/images/0016/91/19/16231991_large.jpg

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/images/0016/91/49/16231994_large.jpg
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