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Pressure plate/clutch recommendations

Started by XH29N0G, October 20, 2012, 08:42:43 AM

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XH29N0G

I decided to have my engine rebuilt.  It was a 383 and will have a 3.91 stroke when done.  It should be in the 400-500 HP range.  I am planning to use the stock flywheel (resurfaced) and am looking for a recommendation for, or on what to consider when selecting, a pressure plate.  The old one has about 20K miles on it, but is 24 years old so I am assuming it is a small price to replace it at this time.

I will post more about the car when it is done.  I decided to go with a Tremec 5 speed.  It has a 4.30 rear, and is undergoing restoration right now.

Thanks,

James
 

Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

elacruze

I used a Centerforce. Nice light pedal, no problem holding my 505" motor, very smooth engagement. Expensive but very worth it.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

Brightyellow69rtse

i had a centerforce then replaced it with a mcloud when i did a motor swap. i had a bad pressure plate which caused extremly hard shifting.they replaced it at no cost. its in now and shifts like butter.

BSB67

You should seriously consider a steel wheel.

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

XH29N0G

Quote from: BSB67 on October 20, 2012, 11:02:10 AM
You should seriously consider a steel wheel.


By steel wheel, You mean steel flywheel.  Right?
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

elacruze

Quote from: jfarquha on October 20, 2012, 02:58:55 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on October 20, 2012, 11:02:10 AM
You should seriously consider a steel wheel.


By steel wheel, You mean steel flywheel.  Right?

Yes, and I'll co-sign that. I used one from Hughes Engines.
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

BSB67

Quote from: jfarquha on October 20, 2012, 02:58:55 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on October 20, 2012, 11:02:10 AM
You should seriously consider a steel wheel.


By steel wheel, You mean steel flywheel.  Right?

Yes.  Billet steel flywheel, SFI approved

500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph

XH29N0G

OK, thanks.  I asked specifically about whether a new flywheel would be needed and the builder said this one would do.  It sounds like the advice is to swap it.
Mainly should be SFI approved.  Any recommendations other than Hughes?

It is the third one on the car, but is not a billet flywheel.  The second one was, but the clutch failed and it had to be replaced. 

Back to my first question, it sounds like centerforce or mcloed, but nothing particularly special given my build will not be pushing it too far.

Thanks again for the feedback.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

c00nhunterjoe

Centerforce dual friction. I'm happy with mine. Anything stronger will be dual disc

Chryco Psycho

Centerforce is a Diaphragm type , it has a weird feel when engaging & I have seen them distruct in one weekend , lots of hype but the product is inferior in my experience . I will not use them .
McLeod is what I have been using for decades , they have Borg & Beck [factory] type & are the only ones to make a Borg & beck / Long type PP which uses better leverages & counter weights so lighter pedal & more clamping force , they also have street twin packages using the B&B/Long pp , top quality products .

XH29N0G

Than you all.  This helps and gets me started.

James
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

AKcharger

My Hays works great but then again I only have 300 miles on it. 4th on the Billet flywheel!

Chatt69chgr

Centerforce II clutch disc cannot be bought separately.  You have to buy the pressure plate/clutch combination.  Unless you are slipping the clutch a lot then this shouldn't make any difference since the pressure plate probably should be replaced at the same time as the clutch disc anyway. 

I believe that the original pressure plate that Mopar supplied was a Borg and Beck type.  I've read that the pedal effort was high.  Looks like McLeod has improved on the original Mopar design. 

Rolling_Thunder

I run a McLeod clutch / pressure plate with my 5-speed...         I dig it.    :2thumbs:
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip