Body guys: order of assembly and adjustment

[66FBCharger]

Guys,
I recently installed two OEM (not repro, if it makes a difference) fenders on my '69. My question is, in order to get gaps correct, in what order do you assemble the parts and what order do you adjust the parts to end up with a nice fitting nose.
For example, when putting the fenders on, do you figure the thickness of the shim(s) for the fender at the cowl first?
Also what tips or tricks could you share to help in the adjustment or alignment of the bolt on body parts.
Right now the driver's side rear of my hood is too high. I have used all the slop in the slots of the hood hinge to hood bolts. I am assuming that I need to move the back of the hinge to the inner fender adjustment down.
Should I adjust the fenders first then adjust the hood to match the fenders?

[Cooter]

I usually start at the top first as that's what will be seen the most, then work down. Of course, the doors are already lined up at this point.

Be prepared for the factory OEM fenders to fit like sh*t compared to today's Computer designed cars BTW.

[Dino]

When the doors are lined up perfectly so thye have a nice even gap with the quarters and rockers then mount the fenders so the gap between fender and door is how you like it.  Spread the fenders out a bit at the front, install the hood and line up the gap between hood and cowl.  Bring nose of fenders back in until the gap is even.  You may need to move the hood to one side as a whole unit, ie without putting it at an angle.  Now install the grille and tweak to get a nice even gap all around.  Lastly install the valance.  Once the top of the fenders are bolted down you can push the bottom of the fenders in towards the valance if neeeded without moving the top.  You may have to compromise a bit as they were not all that precise to begin with but if you do it that way you won't have much issues if any.

[66FBCharger]

When the doors are lined up perfectly so thye have a nice even gap with the quarters and rockers then mount the fenders so the gap between fender and door is how you like it.  Spread the fenders out a bit at the front, install the hood and line up the gap between hood and cowl.  Bring nose of fenders back in until the gap is even.  You may need to move the hood to one side as a whole unit, ie without putting it at an angle.  Now install the grille and tweak to get a nice even gap all around.  Lastly install the valance.  Once the top of the fenders are bolted down you can push the bottom of the fenders in towards the valance if neeeded without moving the top.  You may have to compromise a bit as they were not all that precise to begin with but if you do it that way you won't have much issues if any.

Dino,
Awesome!
How do I move the hood to one side as a unit?

[Patronus]

^ push!

[Dino]

^ push!

I just typed a long post and lost it.   


First of all, remove the hood latch while adjusting the hood, you only bolt the latch in place when the hood is aligned so as not to accidentally pull it to one side.

Let's say the driver's side gap is straight but more narrow than the passenger side.  Open the hood and push it towards the passenger side.  Do it slow first to make sure you clear the fender but be persuasive to adjust it, no pussy pushes here.   

Alternatively you can put shims between the driver's hood hinge and fender, effectively pushing it over.  I prefer the push method myself.

Once lined up you an mount the latch right under the hood striker and you can even tweak the gap by moving the latch around.

I hope this makes sense, sometimes it's easier to do than to explain.

[66FBCharger]

^ push!

I just typed a long post and lost it.   


First of all, remove the hood latch while adjusting the hood, you only bolt the latch in place when the hood is aligned so as not to accidentally pull it to one side.

Let's say the driver's side gap is straight but more narrow than the passenger side.  Open the hood and push it towards the passenger side.  Do it slow first to make sure you clear the fender but be persuasive to adjust it, no pussy pushes here.   

Alternatively you can put shims between the driver's hood hinge and fender, effectively pushing it over.  I prefer the push method myself.

Once lined up you an mount the latch right under the hood striker and you can even tweak the gap by moving the latch around.

I hope this makes sense, sometimes it's easier to do than to explain.

Dino,
It makes perfect sense! Thanks.

[Dino]

 

[bakerhillpins]

Dino,
It makes perfect sense! Thanks.

  Thanks!! 

[69 OUR/TEA]

John,why are you trying to get them to fit precisely,is'nt the car going out for resto,when at that time,all your door/hood hinges should be getting rebuilt and things will change anyway?

[66FBCharger]

John,why are you trying to get them to fit precisely,is'nt the car going out for resto,when at that time,all your door/hood hinges should be getting rebuilt and things will change anyway?

Paul,
I have to bolt the nose back on so I can drive the car. I have no plans to restore the car any time soon. I just want to drive the car and enjoy it.
I am going to rebuild the door hinges this spring before I install the fenders. I am not looking to fit the nose precisely, but, I will have to do some adjustment anyway, so I would like to know how to adjust the nose properly. Maybe I don't know how hard it will be, but I figure if I need to make adjustments anyway, how much harder will it be to do them right?
I love the car and I just want to drive it as much as possible. realistically I don't see me restoring the car for the next several years.