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Lower control arm & drag link situation

Started by hemi68charger, January 19, 2013, 11:21:38 PM

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hemi68charger

Hey gang..
I think I know the problem, but it isn't real clear. I'm putting the front suspension back together with new ball joints, bushings, tie-rods, etc... Now, all of a sudden, the drag link is rubbing against the oil pan ( obviously, it wasn't doing this before ). The same pitman and idler arm are back in the car, so the geometry should be the same. The drag link should be positioned in space with the drag link and idler arm. But, I may have the lower control arm one hex-side off on the torsion bar. I believe the lower control arm needs to swing up one more hex position. Maybe a fresh set of eyes will see something that's obvious for I'm getting tired at this hour....

And yes, I painted the lower control arms black...  :icon_smile_big:  , next time I do the car, it'll get the "cosmoline" treatment....... 
Thanks in advance...
Troy
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

cdr

looks like the center link is on wrong it needs to be turned around the offset goes to the front not the rear
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

cdr

the lower control arm will not affect the center link location
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

Cooter

" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

garner7555

Quote from: cdr on January 20, 2013, 12:36:09 AM
looks like the center link is on wrong it needs to be turned around the offset goes to the front not the rear

I agree.  :2thumbs:
69 Charger 440 resto-mod

charger Downunder

Quote from: garner7555 on January 20, 2013, 12:43:16 AM
Quote from: cdr on January 20, 2013, 12:36:09 AM
looks like the center link is on wrong it needs to be turned around the offset goes to the front not the rear

I agree.  :2thumbs:

I second that
[/quote]

hemi68charger

Anyone have a picture? I could have sworn the service manual showed the bend going aft, not forward..... Charlie, can you take a picture of your '68 if the motor's still in it?

Also, may be a callin' on ya.... It is easy to yank the steering column, but to jab it back in and line up the coupler is a two-man operation......

T
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

HPP

Did you remove the steering box and replace the pitman and idler?  If so, this presents you with a couple of things. 1 - the loose componenets you replaced had a natural sag to them that allowed them to drop low enough to avoid the pan.  2 - when those parts were tight, the steerig box was likely installed with some shims that provided the necessary clearance to avoid contact. This was not an uncommon occurance from the factory in order to equal teh sloppy assemlby toernaces that mopars were allowed.

Dmichels

I had this problem. Maybe this will help you, worth a look. My idler arm mounting holes had some play in them. I could move the idler are up and down to the point where it would contact the oil pan. Here is how I fixed it. I put 2 washers that fit the bolt snug. I then mounted the arm with a washer on each side of the bracket. Once things were the way I liked it I welded the washers in place.
Dave
68 440 4 speed 4.10

cdr

well here is a pic of the junk that came off my junk,call me later,i can load this in my truck & bring it to your house.



LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

mauve66

hard to tell but i think mine looks just like yours and it doesn't hit, and since it didin't hit the pan before the swap :RantExplode: :RantExplode:
Robert-Las Vegas, NV

NEEDS:
body work
paint - mauve and black
powder coat wheels - mauve and black
total wiring
PW
PDLKS
Tint
trim
engine - 520/540, eddy heads, 6pak
alignment

hemi68charger

I believe I have the culprit... I have a 187 pan on my Daytona, hence a 2.02" depth pan whereas the 402 I'm suppose to have is a 1.56" depth pan... I believe that's my culprit. I put everything back to what it was before. Apparently my tolerances were a lot closer than I remembered, didn't really pay no mind to it before since it worked. Maybe the draglink was backwards and cleared. Regardless, I'm going to put it the proper way. I'll remove the draglink, get a proper pan and put it all back together again. Thus, making the Daytona even "more correct"... The life these old cars go through. The previous owner apparently didn't have a 402 pan laying around when they built this 69 440 for the Daytona when they yanked the 426 Hemi that was in it when it came back from England...

the "187" stamping, verifying it is indeed a C-body pan... Now the quest to get a 402 pan... Maybe I have that ole' Hemi pan laying around I can use for barter....

Thanks Charlie, your link was the key to understanding.....
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

hemi68charger

Well, guess what....... I have to start going up into my attic more to see my Mopar stash... Pull this down. I need a 402 oil and what I believe I found is a '70-'71 426 Hemi oil pan.... I'll see if I can trade it for 2 "402" pans....
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

JB400

I know that it wouldn't be numbers correct, but why not cut it down a half inch and bring in the mig welder?  It'd give you a weekend or evening project and get you back on the road quicker.  Then when you do locate the 402 pan, you could put it on later on.  Just a thought. :popcrn:

Sorry, I'm used to making due with what I have, that's why I ask.