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Would running a/c lines under the intake manifold cause any problems?

Started by WHITE AND RED 69, June 04, 2013, 06:09:45 PM

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WHITE AND RED 69

Well, after getting my new aftermarket a/c lines all redone and installed I feel it just looks too cluttered? So I am debating running all the lines through the fender, the filter/drier on the radiator support, and the lines from the compressor under the intake to make it all look somewhat hidden. Will this cause any problems heat wise to the rubber lines? or any other problems I am not thinking of? The lines will fit under the edelbrock RPM intake so the clearance won't be an issue. And I have the fittings and extra hoses to make it work. I just don't want to get the a/c system charged and feel like I should have changed it.

Has anyone seen this done? Or something similar? Or have any suggestions? I just want a cleaner engine bay without hoses everywhere but still have functioning a/c.   :shruggy:

:cheers:
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

Rolling_Thunder

The only problem would be the head transfer from the engine to the lines...    I don't think it would be too big of a deal in the real world however.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

A383Wing

the ac lines get hot on their own, personally, I don't think it's a good idea...heat from engine will cause pressure to rise, maybe more than the system can handle. the pressure line to he evaporator usually is cold before it gets to firewall, now you are gonna heat it up and yer AC may not get cold enough to enjoy

Bryan

Pete in NH

I wouldn't do it. As Bryan mentioned I would be concerned about heat transfer and pressure build up beyond what the system could handle. But beyond that the whole idea brought back memories of the 59 Cadillac that ran the heater hoses under the intake manifold. My cousin was a mechanic back then and told me about how the hoses would bake hard from the engine heat after a few years and then break. Customers were not too happy about a labor bill that was quite steep for heater hose replacement because the intake manifold had to come off.

If you look in the Chrysler shop manuals in dealing with R12 systems you see they suggest placing the cans of R-12 in warm water to help build up gas pressure and get it out of the can. They suggest warm water not beyond 120 degrees. Too much heat could cause the can to rupture. I think that kind of tells you something about R-12 and pressure build up.


areibel

 :iagree:
The high pressure line is warm already from the compressor, warmer (higher pressure) might do bad things to your expansion valve or the valves in the compressor?  And the low pressure (suction) line, that's the return to the compressor.  It's usually larger diameter and cool when everything's operating OK.  A little extra heat might not hurt that line, you don't want liquid refrigerant getting sucked back into the compressor and damaging the valves.  But too much and you might build enough pressure in the suction line that you lose efficiency.

John_Kunkel


Check the temperature/pressure relationship on the chart in the link below:

http://www.pacificseabreeze.com/tech-library/heat-and-insulation/R134a-PT-Chart.htm

The chart stops at 180°F and and the pressure is already dangerously high. Think what the pressure would be during a hot soak after engine shutdown.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

resq302

I agree that it is a bad idea.  Lets face it, if it were cheaper and easier to do that way, why didn't Chrysler do it like that.  After all, ease of installation equals less time assembling which equals less money and more profit.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

WHITE AND RED 69

Thanks for the replies guys.  :cheers:  Glad I asked rather than giving it a shot. I was planning on wrapping them in some sort of heat shield but its probably best not to risk it.

I guess i'm going to leave the compressor lines as is and maybe just try to hide the filter/drier and the lines. That should clean the engine bay up a little.   :shruggy:
1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

ACUDANUT


Cooter

Can you imagine having to remove/discharge A/C system just for an intake/cam/lifter problem?

When attempting to do something "trick", I ALWAYS think of servicing problems after completed. Many times, it simply isn't feasible due to other problems.

I see many cars with everything 'hidden', while it looks "trick", it can be a PITA to work on. I recently repaired a steering column wiring problem in a Street rod. Holy sh*t what POS. Had one of those 'I DID IT', GM style columns in it, with NO thought to servicing after installation. That would work if NOTHING EVER broke from now on, but In MY experience, it just ain't so.

When I designed the long tube headers I built using MH headers for my 1958 Plymouth, I made sure things like SPark plug clearance/replacement, Pipe clearance, etc. was NOT a concern. Although they woulda fit, they woulda COOKED my MAster cyl. and Firewall.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

resq302

Cooter,

Kinda similar to todays cars such as my moms 03 sebring vert where you need to pull the intake manifold off just to get to the back 3 spark plugs!   :brickwall:
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Cooter

Quote from: resq302 on June 06, 2013, 06:29:56 PM
Cooter,

Kinda similar to todays cars such as my moms 03 sebring vert where you need to pull the intake manifold off just to get to the back 3 spark plugs!   :brickwall:

You don't know the HALF of it. Put a 4.7 Liter V8 in a Dodge Durango 4WD one time. 20 Hours. Took me two full days. Mercedes, Sorry, Chrysler, bolted the Front diff. to the engine mounts and engine block. So, not only do you have to remove the entire front end, you have to remove the front diff. Then the entire steering rack, but before that, you have to remove the exhaust, which DOESN'T clear those HUGE cat. Converters by the trans pan, so THAT has to come off.
Then, you have to get to the converter bolts through a little, tiny hole under the starter because in Mercedes' infinate wisdom, they decided to make the Engine plate (Between the engine and trans) SOLID all the way around which must do wonders for the heat in the torque converter. Yeah, it sucked monkey balls.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

A383Wing

been there, done that...also did a 5.4 in Expedition....took me 3+ days

I'm glad I don't do it anymore

Bryan

resq302

And THAT is why I do not want to ever purchase another new car.  I'd rather totally restore and drive an antique truck or power wagon than any of todays toss away cars!
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto