News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

What headers to buy for a 383 on my 68 charger?

Started by ChargedNJ, October 12, 2013, 06:01:13 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ChargedNJ

Hey guys, anyone have a reco for headers on a 68 charger with a 383? I don't have any crazy requirements...just something reasonably priced. Anything would be an upgrade over my rusty stock manifolds.

Cheers!

Cooter

Reasonably priced is relative.....
You want em reasonable? Then they most likely won't fit great. You want em to fit and last? TTI.
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

cudaken

 I only installed one set of TTI headers and was impressed.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-IM000066_zpsbd20f227.jpg.html]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-IM000067_zpsb31f7623.jpg.html]

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Bodywork/1-TT3_zps903ca042.jpg.html]

The pictures where taken during a test fit to see how much room we had to install the starter. Minny starter turned out to be a pain, not because of clearances but having to remove the started stud that was in the 727 and finding the right wrench to tighten down the bolt. Stock stater would have more than likely a snap!

I have all so had very good luck with Hooker Super Comps! I have had a pair on my 68 Road Runner for 27 years! Think I am starting to get my first gasket leak in all those years. I Love My Hookers! But, the TTI are better as far as the starter is concern.

Charged I have two statements about headers.

1 Make sure you need them. Headers are worth around 5 HP over stock HP manifolds on a mild street motor. If you have 383 2 barrel exhaust manifolds then either HP ones or headers!

2 Don't buy headers by prices. If you want headers dig deep and buy good ones! Cheap headers are nothing but a pain in the Chevy! Thin walls dissipate heat to fast and cook starters, flex and causes leaks. My first set headers where cheap hooker knock offs and where POS. One tube cracked at #3 hole and the ticking was driving me :eek2: nuts!  To thin to wield, so I had to brazes it over and over and over!

Day I :hack: them off I folded them in to little chucks and jumped on them over and over again! God I hated them!

Cuda Ken
I am back

cdr

LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

myk

"imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/mB3ii4B"><a href="//imgur.com/a/mB3ii4B"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js"

1974dodgecharger

dont get those hooker competitions they make everything a pain...though the power and sound is NICE!!!

fy469rtse

And heads , if alloys , plug angle have changed and a set that fits steel heads will have plug issues on alloy's, my advice we are at fault as much as the manufacturers, we modify and change a lot of things to these cars, I would buy a set of dougs to suit what heads I have , uncoated fit them , most sets even with mini starter has to go in with header to that side, you will have to ding areas to suit and you can gain a lot of clearance buy machining raised area to ports , change the angle slightly , and once you are satisfied with the fittment, remove and then get them ceramic coated

XH29N0G

Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on October 13, 2013, 02:52:11 AM
dont get those hooker competitions they make everything a pain...though the power and sound is NICE!!!

I have hooker competitions will try something else (TTI or Dougs) when mine wear out.  I had a lot of trouble getting these in.  After getting them in, I did exactly what fy469rtse - started modifying things with angle plugs etc.  The dinging process was not that bad.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

ChargedNJ

great advice you guys.  I'm going to try TTIs and see how i do.  Once again, thanks for all the quick replies.  I LOVE THIS SITE!!  Great pics cudaken

War wagon

I run the full TTI system, headers ,x pipe, full 3" exhaust . Fit is perfect!! Sounds great IMHO and room with a mini starter. Worth every penny :Twocents:

ACUDANUT

Only Factory HP manifolds for me. :2thumbs:  Headers are a pain and starter killers. :Twocents:

twodko

FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

ChargedNJ

i've had my car for almost 4 years now and i'm just starting to toy around with it...this is a helluva lot of fun i got to say.

Supercharged Riot

Well.. if it is stock, im assuming stock hp manifolds will do.
But if were talking about heads that have some work done on them, i think headers will yield better performance. See below

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0106_manifolds_vs_headers/viewall.html

mopar0166

I have hookers on mine and love them just finished a rebuild on my 440,  the gave average problems for headers to be honest if you expect the headers to just slide, then look for hp exhaust manifolds.  The TTI's are nice but have also heard people complaining about them as well.   headers are alot of money and work to install but the pay off is great in the ends. 

myk

"imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/mB3ii4B"><a href="//imgur.com/a/mB3ii4B"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js"

ACUDANUT

Quote from: Supercharged Riot on October 13, 2013, 10:30:31 PM
Well.. if it is stock, im assuming stock hp manifolds will do.
But if were talking about heads that have some work done on them, i think headers will yield better performance. See below

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0106_manifolds_vs_headers/viewall.html

Not stock, but I am done with headers...period. :Twocents:

ws23rt

I had headers on a 70 charger 440. I put them on because I had them and they were headers. One big pain to install and changing the starter was not fun.  A good question anyone should ask themselves when thinking about adding headers is why? Am I going to use the added breathing? Is their a pay back?
Competitive racing as a motive would justify the hassle. But to add them just because would bring regret :Twocents:

fy469rtse

Extra thought , headers on a 383 , where I'm sure that there all made for 440 blocks .
so that puts headers down and in further in engine bay, but slight clearance issues to stock steering arm's, just watch that when you start dinging for clearance, note turn wheels lock to lock as arms geometry changes on arms

cougs

Agree, but the good ones and don't look back.  The question is will you see an TQ/HP increase on a stock engine over HP manifolds?  I'm debating this internally right now. 
1968 Charger 383/727  Restored to Stock!

XH29N0G


I know I responded already, but I thought some more information might be in order. 

So I put some cheap ones on mine when I was in high school and there was no problem with fitting them or putting them on.  Then they rusted out, so I put some Hooker competition ones on and had a difficult time getting them in.  I suspect others would have had an easier time of it.  Once in however, they fit.  Then I swapped for angle plugs and needed to ding them.  It is possible they hang a little lower than they would on a 440, but I don't notice it.  I like them.  Next time, I will go with TTI or Doug's because of what I have heard about fitment.  my  :Twocents:
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

odcics2

Tried many brands and Hookers fit the best and worked great.  Also lasted a long time with no leaks, too.
5 years later sold them and got over 1/2 the $$ back towards another set.   

Whatever you get, make sure you get equal length tubes. They are tuned for an RPM range.   Also watch for primary diameter.
Don't go to big on a street engine, or you won't see the increase in torque you are looking for.

Like all aspects of engine building, the parts work in a certain range best.
Always easy to over cam, over carb., over intake... Well, you get the picture.

I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?

fy469rtse

Hookers or dougs , tti jump in price , but what ever you choose , just put in the time to make sure they fit, so the improvement you will feel won't be ruined by them touching rattling on something

Mebsuta

I like the headers I have, but don't know exactly what they are.  Previous owner told me they were Hedman, but that was 25 years ago and they don't look like the Hedmans of today.

They are 1 3/4, four-into-one.  The way the tubes are configured, they look like Hooker Super Competition, but there is no Hooker badge on them.  They fit in 1968 383 RR with power steering, 4 speed, and factory-type starter.  They were already old when I got them and they are still on the car.  I know they'll have to be replaced some day, so I look around, and everything either needs a mini starter, or won't work with PS or 4-sp, or some other exception.  

ChargedNJ

Hey guys.  So i picked up a pair of used headers the other day that the seller claimed were never used (and it looks to be the case).  But even if not, they were only $80 so i figured it was worth the risk.  I'd first like to identify what brand they are, as he didn't know and there was no packaging.  The only marking on them is the number 79130.  It doesnt appear to be a lot or date cose as the number is the same right to left.  They are 1 3/4 in pipes with a 3" collector.  Any help is appreciated!!