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Modern Bullitt build

Started by keepat, April 30, 2014, 04:44:11 PM

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1969 R/T SE

i think you should supercharge the hemi, they are making some new low profile superchargers, take a look at them

keepat


Pat

Are you going with CF Brackets.  Removing 20-25 lbs of overhang weight might just b noticible, and just the effort  at that level of detail in commendable.
[/quote]

Yes I'm planning on making molds for the four front bumper mounts but I'm not going to start on it until after the body work and paint work is done.
Thanks

Quote from: 1969 R/T SE on May 12, 2016, 03:12:43 PM
i think you should supercharge the hemi, they are making some new low profile superchargers, take a look at them

I had seriously considered a Hellcat motor at the beginning of the build, and I'm pretty sure that would've required modifying the hood which I did not want to do. I liked the look of the vintage hemi air cleaner on top of the two throttle bodies.
Thanks
Pat

charger chris

i am a fair person and up frount person and try to help if i can. i love my mopars thats. all i ever owned first car was my 69 charger at the age of 15.

1969 charger Daytona clone
1969 charger sadly stolen
1970 charger rt
1972 road runner clone

keepat


keepat

I started on the roof of the car by using paint stripper to remove the vinyl top glue, paint, and primer. Then I used a 6" DA sander to remove any leftover glue and paint. As with most vinyl top I was left with some rust and pitting to treat and repair. I coated the roof with a gel rust dissolver and covered the roof with plastic to keep the gel from evaporating. After about 8 hours I removed the plastic and rust dissolver then neutralize the roof with water, and paint prep. One last sanding with 80 grit on the DA sander, a wipe down with Final Klean and 2 coats of epoxy primer. Next I'll will skim-coat the roof, sand and more epoxy primer.
Thanks
Pat





















phantom

Looking good! Are you going for paint under the car, or are you adding some sort of protection underneath also? I bought a transparent bed-liner that i mixed with the intended color of the car. Got both protection and paint under there  :2thumbs:

Homerr

Great to see the step by step process after seeing so many posts of beautifully prepared shiny metal!

keepat

Quote from: phantom on May 16, 2016, 02:44:49 AM
Looking good! Are you going for paint under the car, or are you adding some sort of protection underneath also? I bought a transparent bed-liner that i mixed with the intended color of the car. Got both protection and paint under there  :2thumbs:

I will paint the bottom black same as the top and I like what you did with transparent bed-liner mixed with the color for the wheel wells.
Thanks
Pat

Quote from: Homerr on May 16, 2016, 09:54:33 AM
Great to see the step by step process after seeing so many posts of beautifully prepared shiny metal!

Thanks, I hope it can help others with the same problem?
Pat

moparnation74

Quote from: Homerr on May 16, 2016, 09:54:33 AM
Great to see the step by step process after seeing so many posts of beautifully prepared shiny metal!
Exactly! 

Pat, thanks again for this awesome build thread....Step by step process and Not just showing just a before and after.  This is what helps all of us true hobbyists! :2thumbs:

mopar4don


keepat

 
Thank you gentlemen!
This site is full of awesome builds with a lot of great step by step pictorial that I have used over the years.  It's nice to contribute in a small way and payback others that have helped me over the years.
Pat

keepat

I used a Dremel with a wire brush to scuff the pits, and then block sanded the roof before skim coating it with body filler. Block sanded it again and sprayed a coat of high build primer. FUN! :-(
Thanks
Pat








   

birdsandbees

My arms are aching just looking at the picture!

Looking GREAT!!!  :2thumbs:
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

keepat

Quote from: birdsandbees on May 22, 2016, 01:54:41 PM
My arms are aching just looking at the picture!

Looking GREAT!!!  :2thumbs:

By the time the bodywork is done I'll have Popeye arms ;-)
Thank you!
Pat

mopar4don

Quote from: keepat on May 22, 2016, 12:00:43 PM
I used a Dremel with a wire brush to scuff the pits, and then block sanded the roof before skim coating it with body filler. Block sanded it again and sprayed a coat of high build primer. FUN! :-(
Thanks
Pat



Pat
Let me get this straight, You epoxy primed the roof, then used a dremel with a wire wheel to scuff the pait in the pits???
Is this to ensure the filler would bite down inside the pits?
Did you use the dremel and wire wheel method before you epoxy primed?

keepat

Quote from: mopar4don on May 22, 2016, 09:22:10 PM
Quote from: keepat on May 22, 2016, 12:00:43 PM
I used a Dremel with a wire brush to scuff the pits, and then block sanded the roof before skim coating it with body filler. Block sanded it again and sprayed a coat of high build primer. FUN! :-(
Thanks
Pat



Pat
Let me get this straight, You epoxy primed the roof, then used a dremel with a wire wheel to scuff the pait in the pits???
Is this to ensure the filler would bite down inside the pits?
Did you use the dremel and wire wheel method before you epoxy primed?

Don,
Yes I just trying to scuff the smooth the epoxy down in the pits so that the filler has something to key to.  Before I applied the epoxy I used a wire wheel and rust dissolver to clean out the pits.
Thanks
Pat

Cncguy

I wonder how well this would work on the under side of the roof? You know where the headliner leaves all that surface rust.

keepat

Quote from: Cncguy on May 23, 2016, 02:50:57 PM
I wonder how well this would work on the under side of the roof? You know where the headliner leaves all that surface rust.

I think a good wire brushing and some rust encapsulator like POR 15 would be best for the under side.
Pat

70mopar500

Quote from: keepat on May 23, 2016, 05:19:04 PM
Quote from: Cncguy on May 23, 2016, 02:50:57 PM
I wonder how well this would work on the under side of the roof? You know where the headliner leaves all that surface rust.

I think a good wire brushing and some rust encapsulator like POR 15 would be best for the under side.
Pat


That's what I did and it worked fine. Rich
Rich 70 charger 500 440.  07 Ram Quad cab 1500 5.7 HEMI, 80 Camaro RS 350

keepat

Started to see a little surface rust starting on the hood and trunk that I had soda blasted over a year ago and never epoxy primer. So I pulled them out and power wash them with a solution of Hold Tight which neutralizes and cleans off the excess soda on the bare metal. Then I sanded the panels with 80 grit paper with the DA sander. Before priming the outside I sprayed inside of the frame work with rust encapsulator/frame coating.
Thanks
Pat











Here you can see the left side in the picture is sanded and the right side is the virgin metal after soda blasting.







Using Eastwoods internal frame coating and rust encapsulator I was able to spray inside both the trunk and hood framework in a variety of different positions to coat all the internal surfaces.














keepat

After priming the top of the hood and trunk lid I noticed the trunk lid at the front corners are bent up the same on both sides. I don't remember this shape on my silver Charger trunk! Is this bend correct or should it be flat?? See pictures and please let me know.
Thanks
Pat















Charger-Bodie

Thats actually how it should be. Most make it flat, but thats wrong.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

keepat

Quote from: Charger-Bodie on June 06, 2016, 04:38:00 PM
Thats actually how it should be. Most make it flat, but thats wrong.

I was hoping that was the case just wanted to be sure, this cars body was unmolested and those two corrner bends are to symmetrical to be an accident. Thank you for the reply!
Pat

keepat

After removing the sound deadening held up with contact cement I was able to prep and prime the inside of the roof. Before spraying the epoxy primer and coated the inside of the roof framing with a rust encapsulator.
Thanks
Pat 












keepat

Then I prep and sprayed the floors and package tray. Next I'll seam seal the floor.
Thanks
Pat