Questions about 74 Charger SE

[workworkwork]

I recently purchases a 74 Charger SE. The pictures looked better than the car actually is. I have another 74 base model charger but there are a lot of differences between the two cars that I am not sure what is original and what is modified. So here are my questions because I am trying to get this car back to where it should be:

1) The SE has a rally dash. In the middle top of the rally dash is a small hole that always glows bright white. I thought that would have been the high beam signal. My base charger has a different dash with a small blue indicator for high beams. Should there be some kind of colored lense or something in that hole on the rally dash? If so what does it look like and where can I get it?
2) The SE has a floor console. The Steering column is a lot different than the one on my base model with shift on the column. In the SE steering column it as a tab sticking up on a steering column that pivots on the column. It seems to be a lock for the key. But when I turn the key the car will not start. I have to both turn the key and push in a button on the bottom of the dash and the car will start. Having been used to my base model charger this seems bizzare to me. Is that button push start original to the car or did someone add that? Should an SE just start by turning the key?
3) The doors don't quite fit properly. On the passenger side the window is actually about a quarter to a half inch too far forward to seal the gap at the front of the C pillar. Is that window position adjustable? Could someone have put a 71 or 72 door on the car to cause this issue? Not sure why this would be like that? Anyone have any ideas?
4) The doors don't line up properly. They kind of sick out at the bottom. Are these adjustable in some way? Could this be another sign the doors are not the correct year for the car?
5) The trunk is an aftermarket part. I can tell because it does not fit as well as it should and the paint pealed on the underside revealing an aftermarked unprepped surface. Does anyone know where I can find an original rust free trunk for a 74 charger? When I close the door of the car the metal is thin enough that you can actually see it flex on the trunk

I am sure I will have more questions as I go through the car more but these are enough for now. BTW. pictures can make a car look a lot better than it actually is. Even if the car is on the other side of the country I recommend going to see it in person before you buy it. I might not have purchased this car if I had seen it in person first. But now that I have it, in for a penny in for a pound.

[1972DodgeChargerSE]

1. That hole should have a little red "lense" in it that says brake.
2. Floor columns and column shift columns are very different. The floor one should have the depressor key lock thing like you talked about. Do you hold the button to start the car or just hit the button once? If you hold it my guess is it connects the starter when held. If you just push it on/off then it is probably just a normal kill switch. Either way it is after market.
3. Does the window seal at top? Maybe it is very slightly rolled down or maybe your seal is messed up?
4. You can adjust the stricker for the doors and that may help. Rebuilding hinges could also help. You could also just have doors that were poorly repaired after an accident.
5. It will be VERY hard to find a nice original trunk floor as any car with a nice trunk floor is likely restorable. You can also modify a AMD trunk floor for a 74. AMD metal is supposed to be very good and should fit well. I believe you could also switch to a 71-73 gas tank and not have to modify an AMD trunk floor, but Nacho will have to confirm this. If the deck lid is flexing when you shut it the skin has likley came seperated from the frame in the center and needs ro be reatached.
I hope that helps and good luck with restoring your 74s. You should also post pictures of your cars it would be nice to see them.

[workworkwork]

I should have been more clear on the trunk. It is actually the trunk lid that is aftermarket. The floor looks ok and original. But the trunk lid definitely not an original part. The metal is too thin and where the paint peeled on the underside you can see it is an aftermarket metal. So, I would need a trunk lid if I can find one.

[workworkwork]

1. That hole should have a little red "lense" in it that says brake.
2. Floor columns and column shift columns are very different. The floor one should have the depressor key lock thing like you talked about. Do you hold the button to start the car or just hit the button once? If you hold it my guess is it connects the starter when held. If you just push it on/off then it is probably just a normal kill switch. Either way it is after market.
3. Does the window seal at top? Maybe it is very slightly rolled down or maybe your seal is messed up?
4. You can adjust the stricker for the doors and that may help. Rebuilding hinges could also help. You could also just have doors that were poorly repaired after an accident.
5. It will be VERY hard to find a nice original trunk floor as any car with a nice trunk floor is likely restorable. You can also modify a AMD trunk floor for a 74. AMD metal is supposed to be very good and should fit well. I believe you could also switch to a 71-73 gas tank and not have to modify an AMD trunk floor, but Nacho will have to confirm this. If the deck lid is flexing when you shut it the skin has likley came seperated from the frame in the center and needs ro be reatached.
I hope that helps and good luck with restoring your 74s. You should also post pictures of your cars it would be nice to see them.

Thank you for the information. The button I just press and release. I am guessing there must have been something wrong in the steering column for them to add a button like that then. So that little hole should say brake. I wonder why the light is always on there. Where can I get the little missing lens for that spot? The emergency brake is not set. Maybe another fault to track down?

[1972DodgeChargerSE]

I should have been more clear on the trunk. It is actually the trunk lid that is aftermarket. The floor looks ok and original. But the trunk lid definitely not an original part. The metal is too thin and where the paint peeled on the underside you can see it is an aftermarket metal. So, I would need a trunk lid if I can find one.

Oh, sorry about that misumderstanding, a deck lid shouldn't be to hard to find look around on craigslist,they pop up relatively often here. You can also see if vegascharger has one he parted out a few 73/74s. Also any 3rd gen decklid will do, it doesn't need to be off a 74, as all the deck lids are the same.

[1972DodgeChargerSE]

1. That hole should have a little red "lense" in it that says brake.
2. Floor columns and column shift columns are very different. The floor one should have the depressor key lock thing like you talked about. Do you hold the button to start the car or just hit the button once? If you hold it my guess is it connects the starter when held. If you just push it on/off then it is probably just a normal kill switch. Either way it is after market.
3. Does the window seal at top? Maybe it is very slightly rolled down or maybe your seal is messed up?
4. You can adjust the stricker for the doors and that may help. Rebuilding hinges could also help. You could also just have doors that were poorly repaired after an accident.
5. It will be VERY hard to find a nice original trunk floor as any car with a nice trunk floor is likely restorable. You can also modify a AMD trunk floor for a 74. AMD metal is supposed to be very good and should fit well. I believe you could also switch to a 71-73 gas tank and not have to modify an AMD trunk floor, but Nacho will have to confirm this. If the deck lid is flexing when you shut it the skin has likley came seperated from the frame in the center and needs ro be reatached.
I hope that helps and good luck with restoring your 74s. You should also post pictures of your cars it would be nice to see them.

Thank you for the information. The button I just press and release. I am guessing there must have been something wrong in the steering column for them to add a button like that then. So that little hole should say brake. I wonder why the light is always on there. Where can I get the little missing lens for that spot? The emergency brake is not set. Maybe another fault to track down?

It could be something wrong but if the switch isn't in plain sight it is more than likely anti-theft. I don't know where or if you can buy the little lense, but the light constantly staying on is a bad thing as I believe it is a brake failure light. I don't really know much on how it works though but I am sure someone who does will chime in.

[Nacho-RT74]

71/72s and 73/74 althought interchanges without issues, will get a dif cilinder hole provision, so, will need to be sure which one you get to match the cilinder.

71/72 attachs with spring clips just like the doors, so the hole looks the same than the door ones... 73/74 are attached with a big nut, so hole is bigger AND with two flat areas to index and keep the cilinder in place while tightening the nut.


Cluster lenses... I recall somebody reproduce and selling those

[Nacho-RT74]

One note about the press and release button... It sounds just like the interlock reset button normally mounted at a side of ECU... Not saying is that but by your description, sounds similar

[workworkwork]

This is the 74 charger SE I purchased. You might have seen it on ebay recently It looks better in the pictures than it does in person. What the pictures hide is that all the chrome everywhere needs to be redone. Looks nice and shiny in the picture but it is all pitted and worn. The body looks good in the picture but in reality it has a lot of imperfections, waves and dings. The engine was spruced up. there is overspray on the oil filter where they sprayed the engine blue. The engine smokes a bit. The doors are worse in person than in the pictures. You really see they don't fit very well when you see the car. There are a few trim pieces missing altogether. I am still assessing what I need to do to this car. The paint on the outside is a different color than the door jambs. Was repainted but poorly done. I am thinking I need to take this car to a body shop and get it redone. From the pictures it looks like a turn key survivor. In person it actually needs a lot.

[pmike]

Could the hole on top of the dash also be the "fasten your seatbelts" indicator? 

[VegasCharger]

Hello and welcome 
I've attached 2 pics to see if this is what you are referring about the bright light in your dash cluster.

Also even though your parking is not engaged, the switch could be out of position or stuck out of the return position causing the indicator light to glow.

1st pic is a view of 74 Rallye cluster out of the car with a red circle indicating the location of the brake warning light.
2nd pic is a close up of the lens showing the "Brake" text.

[workworkwork]

Yes that is exactly it. That lens is missing and the light behind it is constantly on. Ok, so it sounds like that is fault, maybe in the switch that I need to track down and I need to find that little lense that says brake for my 74 cluster.

[ODZKing]

One note about the press and release button... It sounds just like the interlock reset button normally mounted at a side of ECU... Not saying is that but by your description, sounds similar

Nacho beat to this one.  Yes, it sounds like someone disconnected the seat belt interlock system and installed a switch.  Rediculous system but that is what your button sounds like.  Aftermarket, for sure.
73 and 74 columns are different as well.  Slight as the may be, they are different.
And "Bob" (not me) just put a 73 tank in his 74.  Tanks are less expensive.

[EccentricMagpies]

This is the 74 charger SE I purchased. You might have seen it on ebay recently It looks better in the pictures than it does in person. What the pictures hide is that all the chrome everywhere needs to be redone. Looks nice and shiny in the picture but it is all pitted and worn. The body looks good in the picture but in reality it has a lot of imperfections, waves and dings. The engine was spruced up. there is overspray on the oil filter where they sprayed the engine blue. The engine smokes a bit. The doors are worse in person than in the pictures. You really see they don't fit very well when you see the car. There are a few trim pieces missing altogether. I am still assessing what I need to do to this car. The paint on the outside is a different color than the door jambs. Was repainted but poorly done. I am thinking I need to take this car to a body shop and get it redone. From the pictures it looks like a turn key survivor. In person it actually needs a lot.

Is this the car out of Florida?  If so, yeah it did look like a nice car in the photos.
Sorry to hear it wasn't as nice as advertised.   Did you talk to the owner?

[workworkwork]

It was sold through a dealership there in Florida. Yes, it definitely needs a lot. I did speak to the salesman and asked a lot of questions before I purchased. Unfortunately the answers weren't that accurate. I have learned through this experience that photos can make a car look a lot better than it actually is. You would never guess by looking at the photos that every bit of chrome on the car is heavily pitted and all needs to be redone. In the photos it looks nice. You don't really see all the imperfections in the body. Just looks like a nice car with straight body in pictures. But, this car needs a bunch of body work. What might look like a reflection of the sun in the paint is actually wavyness in the panels, dings, dimples. Someone basically did a cheap paint job to spruce the car up and it looks better from 40 feet away. But, they didn't paint the door jams etc.They didn't fix any imperfections in the body. It was a scuff, tape and spray job to make it look shiny. That exterior red color is a different red than the door jam red. That is how cheaply the paint job was done on the car. So, hopefully this might help someone. No matter how nice the pictures look or how many questions you ask there is no substitute for seeing a car in person. Now that I own the car I have to fix a bunch of stuff. Like the windshield wipers don't work. There is a weird modification where the car starts with a button. The brake warning light is always on. The engine is a bit smokey and tired. All the plastics on the outside need replaced. I ordered new markers. Needs new tail lights. The reverse lenses are yellowed and the right one is from a base charger and left an SE. Even the vinyl top needs to be replaced it is pealing off along the rear trim and looks pretty past it. Pretty much the car needs to be redone. Seems like an ok starting point for a restoration but not what I thought I was buying. Its a little embarrassing to admit but maybe this candor will aid another charger fan make the right purchase or find the right car by seeing how different a car can actually be from what it looks like in a set of pictures.

[EccentricMagpies]

You are not alone.   It happens a lot.  As you have written here, it would be nice to put out a 'warning' for upcoming buyers.  But not everyone is going to read a post related to '74 ignition issues hoping for buyer beware advice. 

You could start a thread that could capture other members stories.  And maybe one exists, not sure.
I know there is a 'do you regret' something or other.     

All in all... I hope everything works out with the car. 

[ODZKing]

What it boils down to is ALWAYS GO LOOK AT THE CAR FOR YOURSELF!
Mine was in Indiana. And while I had a friend go look at it for me with a list of things to look for, his opinion and mine were not on the same par.  Sufice it to say had I sen the car, I would have passed.
Enough said ... the car is done now and I'm happy but I wasn't when it rolled off the truck.   

[RJS]

Let me start with the first little problem.
Open driver door and knell down to operate emergency brake by hand. You will notice a pin switch (like a door jam switch) that is supposed to hit brake lever when the brake is off to turn off Brake light in dash.
Is the wire on that pin switch? if not find it and attach. If the wire is on pin switch when the brake is released does the arm push the pin switch in to turn off light? If not correct.
Lastly push pin switch in all the way with you finger to see if switch itself actually works to turn off light.


Problem 2:*****NOTE: Dash cluster would have to be removed to access this lens

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Lenses_Gaskets/E-body_Indicator_Lenses_Rallye.htm

Ron

[workworkwork]

Let me start with the first little problem.
Open driver door and knell down to operate emergency brake by hand. You will notice a pin switch (like a door jam switch) that is supposed to hit brake lever when the brake is off to turn off Brake light in dash.
Is the wire on that pin switch? if not find it and attach. If the wire is on pin switch when the brake is released does the arm push the pin switch in to turn off light? If not correct.
Lastly push pin switch in all the way with you finger to see if switch itself actually works to turn off light.


Problem 2:*****NOTE: Dash cluster would have to be removed to access this lens

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Lenses_Gaskets/E-body_Indicator_Lenses_Rallye.htm

Ron

This is terrific information. I am going to check it out tonight and report back what I find. Thank you also for the performance graphics information. That seems like it is what is missing from that round hole. I am going to order the red brake light lens. Sounds like they will sell you just one if you need just one of the three.

[74bluecharger440]

Where are you located as I have lots of 74 parts trim and  such

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm not sure the brake lense from E body is the same than B body BUT could work

[Ghoste]

According to the website at BEA they are, at least thats how they list them. 

[workworkwork]

Well, the little switch where the emergency brake pedal pushes when released has the wire attached but doesn't seem to do anything. I played with the switch and depressed it by hand but the light is always on in the dash. Maybe the switch is just bad. Not sure. Now that I know what is suppose to turn it off I can work this item. Anyone sell those switches?

[Nacho-RT74]

the brake light is also turned on by the proportioning brake valve switch warning you there is a brake fluid pressure fail

[workworkwork]

the brake light is also turned on by the proportioning brake valve switch warning you there is a brake fluid pressure fail

I did not know that. I will check the fluid to see what might be happening there. Brakes do seem to work ok.

The SE is new to me. I have a couple more questions. Should the floor console have a light for the shift plate so you can see what you shifted to on the automatic version? Mine is dark at night.
Also, should all SEs have the wheel moulding and rocker panel moulding? Mine doesn't. It is a Lynch Rd car so the fender tag doesn't have much info. But I don't see screw holes where the wheel moulding would have been.
Also, how big of a job is it to remove the door guard moulding. In the pictures is looks ok but in reality it is heavily pitted and not very nice looking up close.

Also what is the best way to touch up the silver accents for things like the dash where there is  a silver ring around each guage opening or the dash emblem? Looks like silver paint. My base model dash has chrome accents on the dash. Does everyone just get a piant brush and some silver paint or is there a better method?

[ODZKing]

Should the floor console have a light for the shift plate so you can see what you shifted to on the automatic version? Mine is dark at night.
Also, should all SEs have the wheel moulding and rocker panel moulding? Mine doesn't. It is a Lynch Rd car so the fender tag doesn't have much info. But I don't see screw holes where the wheel moulding would have been.
Also, how big of a job is it to remove the door guard moulding. In the pictures is looks ok but in reality it is heavily pitted and not very nice looking up close.

Also what is the best way to touch up the silver accents for things like the dash where there is  a silver ring around each guage opening or the dash emblem? Looks like silver paint. My base model dash has chrome accents on the dash. Does everyone just get a piant brush and some silver paint or is there a better method?

Let's see if we can't answer some of these questions. Yes!  There is a bulb in the shifter plate and when you shift the indicator actually changes colors to indicate drive, neutral etc. Not hard just kind of complicated.  You have to remove shift handle, the plate on the console, then remove the shifter mechanism from the brackets. 3 bolts and lift off.  You'll see the bulb under there. #57 bulb.  I replaced mine with a BA9S LED, works great.
W/O mouldings, yes SE standard. If you look here http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1973/73_Charger_Total0006.jpg you'll see they were included in the SE package. I suppose you could delete them but you'd pay for them anyway. Easier back then to just take them off after you got the car if you didn't want them. Holes were probably in the fenders unless they've been replaced or filled in.
Door guard moulding ... mine was the same and the rubber portion had shrunk so it looked awful. Probably will be holes at either end as I believe they are screwed on (mine were) you'll have to fill.  Otherwise just stuck on.
As far as the dash, I just used a silver/chrome paint pen and pledge. It was the plastic chrome but unless you want to have it redone which is costly, this is the easiest and best looking way. That is what I did anyway.

[workworkwork]

Thank you. This is good info. Took the shift plate off per instructions. Found the bulb socket wire is broken off. Does anyone make those? It clips firmly into the shift plate. Also The shift plate is pitted and needs replaced. But it looks like it is held with pins that probably need to be drilled out. Do these pry off the backing or do you need to drill them apart? I like the LED idea for putting this back together. The LED should last the rest of my life.

[Nacho-RT74]

the brake light is also turned on by the proportioning brake valve switch warning you there is a brake fluid pressure fail

I did not know that. I will check the fluid to see what might be happening there. Brakes do seem to work ok.

unplug the wire first to prop valve to check if turns off

The SE is new to me. I have a couple more questions. Should the floor console have a light for the shift plate so you can see what you shifted to on the automatic version? Mine is dark at night.

I think you got the answer

you should fine an orange wire underneath the carpet... if unexistant, you should fine the wire extension coming from passenger side kick panel.

Pitted bezzel... they are available as repro ( Check BEAPART.COM ). Removing ? pins needs to be cut or drilled. These are smashed to keep in place. Dunno how would be mounted the repros.

Also, should all SEs have the wheel moulding and rocker panel moulding? Mine doesn't. It is a Lynch Rd car so the fender tag doesn't have much info. But I don't see screw holes where the wheel moulding would have been.

I never have seen an SE without those. Rocker are not being repopped... Wheel openings are.

Also, how big of a job is it to remove the door guard moulding. In the pictures is looks ok but in reality it is heavily pitted and not very nice looking up close.

Do you mean the top belt mold ?

need to remove the weatherstrip then will have access to the mold screws. Both are attached with phillips screws.

However to get easier access to them is better remove door panels, remove the bottom glass bumper ( attached on lower of door inside ) scroll down COMPLETTELY the glass, then will be easier to get access to these screws. There is also a nut on rear of door.

Also what is the best way to touch up the silver accents for things like the dash where there is  a silver ring around each guage opening or the dash emblem? Looks like silver paint. My base model dash has chrome accents on the dash. Does everyone just get a piant brush and some silver paint or is there a better method?

I think answered, but you have this option too:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/341577552550454/permalink/772995226075349/

[ODZKing]

Pitted bezzel... they are available as repro ( Check BEAPART.COM ). Removing ? pins needs to be cut or drilled. These are smashed to keep in place. Dunno how would be mounted the repros.

Got mine on EBay, it was way less. Like $35.00 - But I see there are none on now less that $69.
Don't bother with the used ones, they are all pitted I'm sure.
EASY to install.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-74-ROADRUNNER-CUDA-CHALLENGER-A-T-SHIFTER-PLATE-/231298952195?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35da7dec03&vxp=mtr

Also Classic Industires: http://www.classicindustries.com/product/mopar/e-body-challenger/parts/md4022.html

[workworkwork]

Where is the wire to the prop valve that you are talking about? I would like to try that but I am not sure where to look.

[Ghoste]

There should be a brass block downstream from the master cylinder.  The wire actually comes off the safety switch but its inside that combination valve with proportioning and distribution.  Just follow the brake lines from the master cylinder until you hit brass.

[Nacho-RT74]

not brass, 3rd gens got the Kelsey Hayes cast iron combo valves



attached to inner fender driver side, close to the Booster

[ODZKing]

Nacho is correct. If it is still factory, the plug that goes on the top of the valve just pushes on and is kind of the shape of a bell.
Here is the only shot I have of it, sorry it is so bad but you can see it on the top of the valve.
Here is another shot from the web.

[Nacho-RT74]

The one on top is actually Bendix, but also cast iron! Some cars got the Bendix one

[ODZKing]

The one on top is actually Bendix, but also cast iron! Some cars got the Bendix one

I was just illustrating the plug ... mine is the one on the bottom.

[Ghoste]

Ok, but its still downtstream from the master cylinder.

[workworkwork]

Well, the advice was correct. The proportioning valve connection removal turned off the light. Checking the master cylinder I found the front compartment was empty of brake fluid. Got to have a leak somewhere. Now I need to fix the leak and bleed the brakes. I guess that light actually works if you know what it means.

I ordered the replacement chrome plate on the shift panel. I will take pictures as I replace and post them.

Next issue is the exterior door lock on passenger side does not seem to unlock the door. Pulling up the button will unlock the door. I took door panels off and the lock looks connected from what I can see. Not sure what is going on. There is a small rod that goes down from the door lock to the latch mechanism. But the window covers things up. The window also seems to be about a 1/4 inch too far farward so it does not seal on the door frame. With the door frame off is there a way to adjust the position of the window. Looks like there are some white nylon looking places that connect to the window somehow.

The battery hold down was missing. Got one from Vans Auto on ebay. It is really nice. Easy fix for that. The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well. I ordered the chrome silver pen. I look forward to using it to spruce up the areas where the silver and chrome trim is missing or damaged. I disconnected the connectors under the seats and found the button under the dash was no longer needed to start the car. Just turning the key at that point worked. It looks like that button was added in response to something to do with that mechanism and when the connectors under the seat are disconnected the car works normally.

Thanks o everyone for the advice and help. You guys know your stuff. If anyone has advice on the latest items in this post that would be much appreciated also. 

[ODZKing]

Master cylinders seem backward.  Usually the front reservoir is the back brakes.
You probably have a wheel cylinder for the drum brakes seaping.  Quite common.

[EccentricMagpies]

....The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well.....

Were these all cracked or broken?   Usually just a can of SEMS black paint will make a huge improvement for these if it's only scratches

You sure are getting a lot of things done.  Great job

[workworkwork]

....The seat backs were all scratched up and in bad shape. Got new ones from ebay. They went on easily and fit well.....

Were these all cracked or broken?   Usually just a can of SEMS black paint will make a huge improvement for these if it's only scratches

You sure are getting a lot of things done.  Great job

Not broken or cracked. The plastic is strange in that the surface scratched off in various places leaving a whiter looking plastic subsurface underneath. The surface grain seems to sluff off where scratched. Kind of like the plastic degraded over time or something. So, the scratches and a few areas of damage stood out like a sore thumb. I will take a picture and post. The reproduction ones have a very minor difference in appearance to the grain of the plastic but you have to have them side by side to notice the difference. Once in the car they just look pretty good. I will take a picture of that as well.

[ODZKing]

Yeah, everyone calls it "chalky".  Certain colors were worse than others. I don't know if it's because white absorbs more light or something they put in the dye but they are always bad.
Mine has that as well, but until I can afford new ones (which will have to be a second mortgage on my house), these will have to do.

[workworkwork]

Yes, that is it. Except mine are black and actually look worse than the white door panel in the picture. But that is exactly it. Now I know to refer to it as "chalky". Funny but my base model 74 never had this issue but it has spent much of its life in a garage. Same plastic parts as the SE I am working on. So, the sun must do the damage to the plastics. Or maybe heat and a combination of sun.

[workworkwork]

Here are some pictures of the chaulking seat backs and the reproductions on the car. Also, that silver chrome marker pen is great. Works so well at the faded out silver edges. You can do it free hand and do a really nice job.

[workworkwork]

The chrome mirrors were pitted and looking pretty bad. Ordered new ones from 521 Restorations. They are a good match for the originals. I have shown both so that you can see they match and what the new ones look like. The only issue is the black plastic gasket is a tiny bit too short. The mirror hang over the front edged of the gasket by just a tiny bit.

[workworkwork]

Here is the restoration mirror on the car.

[Nacho-RT74]

I would't keep the original gasket with just a refresh on finish. Some armor all should do it!

[workworkwork]

I would't keep the original gasket with just a refresh on finish. Some armor all should do it!

I think I might put the original gasket back on. Not sure why they don't realize the ones they are shipping are too small for the mirror. The mirror itself is very nice.

[workworkwork]

latest adventure for my 74 SE. Took her out for a drive to put gasoline in her. Checked all the fluids before I left. Drove for about 20 minutes and the transmission suddenly wouldn't engage into any gears. Stopped the car. Checked the fluid. Nothing on the stick. All the transmission fluid disappeared in that short time. Had to get towed to a dodge dealer near me. Can't wait to find out where all the fluid went. I didn't see it burning or smell it burning. So, the mystery is on. Maybe it leaked out the pan but I should know next week.

[ODZKing]

Huh, sorry to hear work3. Let us know what happened.
On another note, where did you buy the repro seat backs.  They seen to fit well.

[Nacho-RT74]

Bob, these seat panels are availabe from Vans on ebay... $225. They are the ones were being sold by Mopar metroparts, now out of bussines. Those are the ones I got in white ( posted on 3rd gen board ). They are the ONLY NICE PANELS available for our cars... And they exist because are the same used on E bodies... I hope SOMEDAY IN THE FUTURE will get same manufacturer making door panels to 3rd gens, and FORGETT about Palco(dashtop ) and AccuS**T pieces of crap!!!

[workworkwork]

Bob, these seat panels are availabe from Vans on ebay... $225. They are the ones were being sold by Mopar metroparts, now out of bussines. Those are the ones I got in white ( posted on 3rd gen board ). They are the ONLY NICE PANELS available for our cars... And they exist because are the same used on E bodies... I hope SOMEDAY IN THE FUTURE will get same manufacturer making door panels to 3rd gens, and FORGETT about Palco(dashtop ) and AccuS**T pieces of crap!!!

Yes, That is where I purchased the seat backs. VansAuto. I have purchased a few other items from them and so far everything I have purchased I have been satisfied with.

[workworkwork]

Well the fun never ends when you buy an old car like this. The verdict is in from the Dodge dealer near me. Here are all the things they told me over the phone:

1) The seal on the transmission pan and one other seal (can't remember which one) are bad and leaking. Need replacement.
2) The rear brake lines actually have a hole in them and need new ones fabricated. Rear wheel cylinders and shoes also need replacing also.
3) The idler arm was coming apart and the car was not safe to drive. Apparently a must fix it now item.
4) The kickdown linkage was missing altogether.
5) The k member body bushings are falling off the car. Apparently completely rotten. Shop doesn't think they are available. Anyone know where to get these?

The joys of buying a car that the place I bought it from says "no worries we did a 74 point inspection and the car is in great shape and ready to drive anywhere." They are having a laugh.

[Ghoste]

Yeah, used car dealers sure like to live up to their reputation don't they?  Fortunately, that stuff is all relatively easy to fix although not necessarily at a dealer where everyone is used to working on new stuff with parts as easy to get as walking to the counter.  Not to mention shop rates.

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

Welcome to the joys of owning a 40 year-old car!

As Ghoste said,  a new car dealer is not the best place to have this kind of work done. The labor rates alone will be expensive. You might want to ask around and find a small local independent shop. Even so, the cost of owning an old car can be high if you have shops do all your work. Not to mention many of today's mechanics have little idea how to deal with your cars old technology. This is a good opportunity to get a factory service manual and some tools and start to learn about your car. You'll find plenty of help here.

[ODZKing]

Well, let's see what we can find for you here.
Brake lines, I wouldn't fool around with - http://finelinesinc.com/1971-1974-dodge-charger

Rear wheel cylinders and shoes can be got at NAPA so don't let them tell you otherwise.

Idler Arm 3402583 also still available from NAPA Part Number: NCP 2683589 - Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts $92 if you want stock. If you were going to go with a Firm Feel steering box or something like that, get it from them.

Kickdown linkage, maybe one of the members here has a set or EBay as long as you know what you are looking for.
I'm sure someone here can post pics so you can compare and have an idea.

As far as k member body bushings, there are a lot of isolators, shields and bushings uder there.  Which ones? Everyone calls them something different - so a diagram or pictures would be helpful.
And believe me they can be found somewhere, don't worry.

Don't let it get you down because believe me, it can and I've been there.  It'll all be good in time.   

[workworkwork]

The bushings are large and somewhat rectangular. I saw them when I changed the oil that they were in bad shape with one falling off. They are about 2 inches by 3 inches. They are located just behind and to the inside of where the front wheel well is located and they are low along what looks to be part of the frame. I can't get a picture because the car is still over at the dealership. I decided to let them fix this round of issues with the exception of the bushings because they said they can't get them. But you are right. They gave me a price of about $1900 which seems like a lot of money for this amount of work. That would be to fix the first 4 items on the list but not the bushings.

That may cause me to delay getting the paintwork / body work done as I was not expecting to spend nearly 2k for basic mechanical repairs.

[ODZKing]

These?

[ODZKing]

It's called a "Body Hold Down Isolator" 3466584 is the bottom - 2 required but the same and there is one above it you can't really see. 3466587 is the other (also 2)
Parts Voice says CollectorsAutoSupply.com in OROVILLE, WA 98844 has them. 800-414-4462 they don't list a price but that place isn't cheap.
Try Silke's Auto Parts Inc. Jacksonville, FL (800-997-7998) as well, he is much more reasonable.
While on the phone, just ask them to describe the part to be sure that is what you need.  Things get bagged wrong all the time ... just double check.

[workworkwork]

Yes the ones in the picture look like the ones that are falling apart. Although only one side had a metal shield like I see in the pictures. The other side didn't have that smaller metal shield that seems like it is part of that bushing sandwich. I will look at those two sources. This diagram is useful. Thanks.

Ralph

[workworkwork]

They have this set on EBAY. Are these the same ones I would need for this?
This is the description and picture:

MOPAR B-Body Polyurethane Sub Frame Body Mount Bushings

Polyurethane Sub Frame Body Bushings

1973-1979 MOPAR B-Body

Charger, Coronet, Satellite, GTX, Roadrunner & Superbee

Why Polyurethane?
Polyurethane is an ideal material for performance suspension bushings. Don't get us wrong, rubber suspension bushings are a proven compromise, however in a performance situation additional horsepower, plus size tires and all mix with normal atmospheric conditions and undercar grit and grime to stress rubber bushings beyond design limits. Polyurethane bushings are firm enough to control movement and maintain alignment in sway bars, control arms, and other stressed suspension components without the harshness or resonance associated with solid metal suspension bushings.  We believe that after experiencing the precise steering, road feedback and the added firmness polyurethane bushings offer, you'll never go back to rubber bushings.

[ODZKing]

Yes, only the driver side has the shield.  It is the starter splash shield although it is called something else in the picture.
3462965 and is called Cross-member support lower splash shield. Left only 318, 400 in 73, all engines in 74.

As far as the EBay auction, shame you would have to buy all that stuff but I guess if you are going new with some, may as well do them all.
Minor difference in shape but that would be them.

[workworkwork]

Yes, only the driver side has the shield.  It is the starter splash shield although it is called something else in the picture.
3462965 and is called Cross-member support lower splash shield. Left only 318, 400 in 73, all engines in 74.

As far as the EBay auction, shame you would have to buy all that stuff but I guess if you are going new with some, may as well do them all.
Minor difference in shape but that would be them.

Awesome. I am amazed at how much you guys know about these cars. I am glad I am sharing this journey and getting some great info. I am also very glad that these parts are available. There are moments of depression that come on where I think what have I gotten myself into. But the folks her have helped to snap me out of it and get me back to the dream of driving this car around in its full glory.

[Daytona R/T SE]

When changing those K member isolators, be sure to check the K member for rust.

It's not unusual for the K member to be completely rusted out where the isolators mount.

[workworkwork]

I hope that is not the case. If it is rusted out there I imagine that would be a very big deal. What can be done if it is rusted out there?

[Nacho-RT74]

patched... or replaced... as usual

[workworkwork]

Got the car back this evening from the dodge dealer. Brakes work now. The brake light is off that was on the dash. The steering works. So, the new idler arm and alignment must be ok. Doesn't pull to either side. The kick down linkage must work. I accidentally squealed the wheels leaving the dealership. Hopefully the transmission is all buttoned up. Didn't have any problems with on the way home. Now its time to start tackling more of the cosmetic issues. I have new arm rests so that might be another job for the weekend. I will post pictures as I work on them.

I wish we had another 4 months of Summer. 

[workworkwork]

Some updates for the 74 Charger SE. Feels a little more like my car after working on a few more things. Got the console fixed up. Got the drivers mirror on. Replaced the arm rest witha reproduction.

[workworkwork]

Here are the armrest replacements and side mirror.

[VegasCharger]

That shifter bezel looks sweet 

Great progress

[Ghoste]

Love the chrome mirror selfie. 

[workworkwork]

The chrome mirror is like a funhouse selfie. It kind of makes me look like I am having a baby. 

[Charger74]

I was just thinking also, if you had to replace the k member isolators, you might want to check the torsion bar bushings as well.   If nothing else, might help stiffen things up.

[workworkwork]

I was just thinking also, if you had to replace the k member isolators, you might want to check the torsion bar bushings as well.   If nothing else, might help stiffen things up.

I do have to replace the k member isolators but I have not done that yet. I will look into the torsion bar bushings. This car is full of hidden surprises. This is sad but true. I found a piece of white duct tape hanging down on the drivers side. I pulled on it and it came off in a big section of duct tape where it had been painted over with a black undercoating to make it look like the rest of the bottom of the car. In reality is was covering up a hole about 10 inches by 5 inches. You could probably put your foot right through the floor on the drivers side. I am almost afraid to look under the car again. I am going to have to get this car into a body shop and have the floor pan replaced. I will get them to do the bushings at the same time. When you look at the pictures is looks so nice

[Charger74]

Ouch on the hole.  That is always the fun of some of these cars.  Never know what someone has hidden from you.

[74bluecharger440]

pistal grip shifter would look good in the new chrome