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Getting the engine up on the stand.

Started by Ponch ®, April 12, 2006, 05:27:14 PM

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Ponch ®

Any good tips on how to set it up using a hoist? I have a 4-point 1250 lbs stand for my 360.

"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

dodge freak

My only tips are to make sure you use long enough bolts so the nuts go on all the way maybe even use two nuts. Make sure the bolts, washers and nuts are not the cheap ones. I have had them get bent after a while. Maybe use harden bolts but those are not going to be cheap. I would use harden nuts and washers fore sure.

Ponch ®

Quote from: dodge freak on April 12, 2006, 05:47:44 PM
My only tips are to make sure you use long enough bolts so the nuts go on all the way maybe even use two nuts. Make sure the bolts, washers and nuts are not the cheap ones. I have had them get bent after a while. Maybe use harden bolts but those are not going to be cheap. I would use harden nuts and washers fore sure.

i bought a set purpose engine stand bolts, so they should be long and strong enough.

How about lining it up..is that pretty hard? im a little worried about properly setting the arms of the engine stand to fit the engine...but i guess ill figure it out.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

dodge freak

On my stand the mounting head came off. I bolted it on while the engine was on the hoist, then I lifted the stand up a little to slide it on. Just make sure all the bolts are on before you start tighten them. Don't forget the arms that mount to the head.

1973_WP29P

I take the mounting plate off the engine stand and mount it on the engine (It is easier to center the plate this way). After that lower the engine down to the stand (This makes it easier to line it up and you don't bust your back lifting the stand). Slide the mounting plate back into the stand and make sure to secure it from turning when you set it down (You can flip the stand really easy if you don't, been there, done that). Now lower stand and engine to the floor (Make sure the weight is distributed evenly to all the wheels or you can tip the hoist over also, almost been there, done that).


                                                                                                        Rod

Chryco Psycho

I use the top 2 mount holes & the bottom 2 to spread the load as wide a s possible on the rear of the block

8WHEELER

I also prefer using the two top holes then the two bottom holes. This engine is not in the
bottom holes yet in this picture, because I was not there yet, so I needed longer bolts.

Dan
74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.

Ponch ®

Quote from: 1973_WP29P on April 12, 2006, 06:49:47 PM
I take the mounting plate off the engine stand and mount it on the engine (It is easier to center the plate this way). After that lower the engine down to the stand (This makes it easier to line it up and you don't bust your back lifting the stand). Slide the mounting plate back into the stand and make sure to secure it from turning when you set it down (You can flip the stand really easy if you don't, been there, done that). Now lower stand and engine to the floor (Make sure the weight is distributed evenly to all the wheels or you can tip the hoist over also, almost been there, done that).


                                                                                                         Rod


sometimes I'm amazed at my lack of common sense. It hadnt occured to me to try that...that seems like the easiest way to do it. Thanks!

I was gonna do it yesterday, but apparently I need about an inch or so of washers on each bolt. By the time i got back from the hardware store, it was too dark.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

Old Moparz

Hey Dan, (8Wheeler)

Is this something you added? (See arrow in pic) On the stand I have, it's just a bolt that tightens against the tube inside that rotates. I like this idea better since I had an engine on it once that started to rotate because the bolt wasn't tight enough. That scared the hell out of me when it looked as though it was ready to flip.

Ponch, what holds your stand from rotating?

Bob
               Bob                



              I Gotta Stop Taking The Bus

Ponch ®

Quote from: Old Moparz on April 13, 2006, 02:08:28 PM


Ponch, what holds your stand from rotating?

Bob

the same as dan's...that little pin that your arrow is pointing at. The tube inside is has holes for it to go in. Its kinda short, so I might get a longer bolt and use it instead.

So from what I gather here, I take it its not a good idea to rotate a complete engine on the stand?
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

8WHEELER

Quote from: Old Moparz on April 13, 2006, 02:08:28 PM
Hey Dan, (8Wheeler)

Is this something you added? (See arrow in pic) On the stand I have, it's just a bolt that tightens against the tube inside that rotates. I like this idea better since I had an engine on it once that started to rotate because the bolt wasn't tight enough. That scared the hell out of me when it looked as though it was ready to flip.

Ponch, what holds your stand from rotating?

Bob


Yes the engine stand came that way ''Harbor Freight'' the older style did use a bolt to press down on the inside tube. I
used it so much on my first engine stand and it wore a groove on the inside tube pretty bad, I don't use that style anymore.

I prefer not to rotate the engine after I put the heads on, it can be done if you are strong enough and carefull enough
but I no longer do it, just not worth the risk on some of these engine stand.

Dan
74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.

Ponch ®

Quote from: 8WHEELER on April 13, 2006, 03:07:38 PM

I prefer not to rotate the engine after I put the heads on, it can be done if you are strong enough and carefull enough
but I no longer do it, just not worth the risk on some of these engine stand.

Dan

yeah, I think ill play it safe on that. I really only wanted to rotate it when im cleaning it and painting it and to change the oil pan, but thats not really necessary.

How much does a complete small block weight anyway? My stand is for up to 1250 lbs.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

Bandit72

Quote from: Ponch on April 13, 2006, 03:12:35 PM
Quote from: 8WHEELER on April 13, 2006, 03:07:38 PM

I prefer not to rotate the engine after I put the heads on, it can be done if you are strong enough and carefull enough
but I no longer do it, just not worth the risk on some of these engine stand.

Dan

yeah, I think ill play it safe on that. I really only wanted to rotate it when im cleaning it and painting it and to change the oil pan, but thats not really necessary.

How much does a complete small block weight anyway? My stand is for up to 1250 lbs.

1250 will be fine...i had my complete 413 on a 1000lb stand...i didn't like it too much because it seemed to "give" quite abit but it was only on there for afew days...

later  :icon_smile_cool:
Daddy ran whiskey in a big black dodge
bought it at an auction at the masons lodge,
Johnson County Sherriff painted on the side,
just shot a coat of primer then he looked inside,
well him and my uncle tore that engine down,
I still remember that rumblin' sound.....

Ponch ®

ok fellas...i have a problem here. Seems that no matter how i try to adjust it, I cant get all four of the stands "arms" to reach all four holes. I can get 3, but I end up about an inch short on the last one..

Am I doing something wrong, or is it possible that the plate or the arms on my stand are simply too small?

I dont want to go back to the store where I bought it and look like a dumbass ....
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

RD

rotate the mounting plate 180 degrees and try it that way.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

dodge freak


71440charger

try bolting the two bottom bolts to the bottom of the motor the ones that are horzontal to each other then skip a hole and bolt the other two in ( that is skipping a hole on each side and try that.
The Killer Cam

Ponch ®

Quote from: 71440charger on April 14, 2006, 12:15:33 PM
try bolting the two bottom bolts to the bottom of the motor the ones that are horzontal to each other then skip a hole and bolt the other two in ( that is skipping a hole on each side and try that.

thanks guys...i tried all your suggestions (and everything else I could think of) and still no dice. HEre is my predicament:



Notice the lower right arm wont reach to where the bolt is. Im thinking that maybe i could get holes drilled on the arms 1/2" to 1" farther out, and then it should reach. I dont want that to compromise the strength of the arm. What do y'all think?
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

Troy

Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

bull

Quote from: Ponch on April 15, 2006, 02:14:25 PM
Quote from: 71440charger on April 14, 2006, 12:15:33 PM
try bolting the two bottom bolts to the bottom of the motor the ones that are horzontal to each other then skip a hole and bolt the other two in ( that is skipping a hole on each side and try that.

thanks guys...i tried all your suggestions (and everything else I could think of) and still no dice. HEre is my predicament:



Notice the lower right arm wont reach to where the bolt is. Im thinking that maybe i could get holes drilled on the arms 1/2" to 1" farther out, and then it should reach. I dont want that to compromise the strength of the arm. What do y'all think?

Looks like the two lower straps need to go to the two lower bolt holes instead of the next ones up like you have it.

Ponch ®

Quote from: bull on April 15, 2006, 03:09:30 PM


Looks like the two lower straps need to go to the two lower bolt holes instead of the next ones up like you have it.

they wont reach, even straightend out horizontally.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

Ponch ®

so how stupid (or smart) is it if i simply run the bolts through the plate directly to the block, like this (im only using the arms as spacers):



The lower arms are bolted on normally to the block,  through the 'middle' holes.   
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

71440charger

try it this way
The Killer Cam

Ponch ®

Quote from: 71440charger on April 15, 2006, 07:51:36 PM
try it this way

the two bottom arms arent long enough. about 1 or 2 inches short.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

Troy

Mojo, I don't think running them straight in will be a problem but you still need to get the bottom two bolted in right? Or did that work when you moved it up?

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

firefighter3931

Ponch :

(1) remove the flexplate off the crank before you bolt on the plate.

(2) try rotating the plate 180* and leave all the bolts loose so you can adjust the sliding arms.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Ponch ®

Quote from: Troy on April 15, 2006, 08:44:19 PM
Mojo, I don't think running them straight in will be a problem but you still need to get the bottom two bolted in right? Or did that work when you moved it up?

Troy


yeah, the two lower arms do reach the middle holes.

here's a better pic of the tentative set up:



Quote from: firefighter3931 on April 15, 2006, 08:48:30 PM
Ponch :

(1) remove the flexplate off the crank before you bolt on the plate.


I've been trying to do that - I dont know if you can tell from the pic, but I have the engine on the ground (on an old tire) in a pretty awkawrd position and I dont think its stable enough to have enough leverage to hold the crank bolt in the front. Otherwise, the crank turns when I try to undo the flexplate bolts. I'm gonna give it another shot tomorrow, when my brother is here to help - today ive been flying solo with this.
"I spent most of my money on cars, birds, and booze. The rest I squandered." - George Best

Chrysler Performance West

8WHEELER

It is very easy to get the flex plate off. Put a wrench on the bolts to take off the frex plate, if the engine
starts to turn over, just put a piece of wood like an old hammer handle, through the flex plate and past the block
about 4inch's and turn it untill it hits the block, then you can take all the rest of the bolts out with no problem.

Dan
74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.