505 stroker being built

[timmycharger]

Looking forward to this winter when I will hopefully be dropping this into my Charger.   Trying to do this on a budget so I plan on re using many parts from my current engine.

I will be putting on my:

Edelbrock RPM heads after possibly having them worked (part 60929, 84CC)
Six pack intake with modified outboard carbs (quick fuel plates)
Hopefully if still usable, the Lunati Voodoo 60303 Cam - 226/234 @50, .494/.513, only  has 2k miles on it currently.
Hughes roller rockers 1.6
Hemi 6 qt pan with 1/2 in pickup

Im sure I am leaving power on the table with the cam, that is still up in the air as I am considering a solid roller as well but for now, this is the plan.

I currently have old CPPA/TTI 2 inch headers but I am thinking of dropping down to 1/7/8 or 1/3/4 but not sure yet.

Hoping for at least 550HP and 500+ Tourque with this engine.

I am going to stay with the 3:54 rear end and the Hemi 4 speed but will be putting in a gearvendors OD unit.

Exciting times!





CUSTOM BUILT 505 CI SHORT BLOCK

FULLY PREPPED CHRYSLER 440 BLOCK PAINTED STREET HEMI ORANGE
(.030) 4.350 BORE FINISHED HONED WITH BHJ TORQUE PLATES, MAINS ALIGN HONED, DECKS RESURFACED (NOT ZERO DECKED)
CLEAVITE PERFORMANCE CAMSHAFT BEARINGS AND BRASS FROST PLUGS INSTALLED
CLEAVITE H-ERIES HND RODS AND MAINS
4.250 STROKE MOLNAR FORGED CRANKSHAFT 2.200 BBC ROD JOURNALS MICRO-POLISHED COMPUTER BALANCED
MOLNAR H BEAM CONNECTING RODS WITH ARP 2000 BOLTS AND ICON FORGED PISTONS WITH COATED SKIRTS 10.7:1 WITH CUSTOMERS 84CC EDELBROCK PERFORMER HEADS INSTALLED AND A .040 GASKET TO BE USED
LIBERTY PERFORMANCE MOLY FILE FIT RINGS (STANDARD TENSION OILS)
THIS IS A SHORT BLOCK: MACHINED BLOCK AND ROTATING ASSEMBLY, WITH NEW BILLET REAR MAIN RETAINER AND FAST FISH DOUBLE LIP REAR MAIN SEAL INSTALLED

[Kern Dog]

I don't know it all but I'd be surprised to see 550 HP with a cam that small. No offense meant, it may run well but I'd expect closer to 500, maybe 520.
Good luck to you.

[timmycharger]

Hey there KD, yeah definitely a fair point on the cam.  I am just having the short block built so I have time to think about the cam part.  I am hoping to gain some more HP if I have the RPM heads cleaned up and ported.

[Mike DC]

   
1.75 headers seem a bit small for this combo IMO. 

I would lean towards the 2.00 headers, especially with aftermarket heads.  I might do 1.875 on a street car if they offered an easier fit than the 2.00 ones.   But 1.75 is more suited to a 383/400 motor.  Or a small block 360. 
 

As for the cam, I wouldn't mind starting on the small side on a street car.  The mid-range torque will be great.  You can always move up later if you want to.   

[b5blue]

I think you will be fine. Leave the heads as is to keep up port volume. 

[496polara]

With that cam I would go with the 1 7/8 headers. It will probably be all done by 5000rpm. Nothing wrong with that,especially for a street car. Go up 2 sizes on the cam and you are in a whole nother ballpark.

You may have to slow down the timing advance and limit total with a cam that small and 10.7-1 compression. Premium fuel only and watch for detonation.

[timmycharger]

I picked up the short block over the weekend. The plan is to do the swap at some point this winter, for now I am going to keep driving it this summer while collecting parts. I plan on re using lots of parts from my current engine as noted before.

I am probably going to be moving away from the cam that is in my current engine that I noted above. Looking now into a hydraulic roller. 

I have time to think about what I want to do, likely will give Dwayne Porter a call as he is only a few hrs away from me if I wanted to bring my heads there as well.

[Kern Dog]

I love the look of a fresh engine. New paint, no oil anywhere, all casting numbers and marks easily visible....it is great. 505 inches is a good choice.
A guy at FABO had a 505 with a cam slightly bigger than mine with untouched Trick Flow heads, I don't recall the intake but he I think he had a Holley 950 on it. The engine dyno'ed to 617 HP and torque in the mid 600 range. It all peaked under 6000 rpms too.
Good luck with the build.

[timmycharger]

Thanks KD, those are some stout numbers for sure.  I keep reading your thread on roller cams and what you just purchased, I will be watching very closely as I will be in the same boat with the parts. Other members had great feedback as well that I want to consider.

In your thread you mention the rear freeze plug by the back of the cam. As you can see in my pic below, mine is sitting in very deep, never thought that could be an issue, hopefully it is not. Out of the 100 questions I had for the builder, that wasn't one of them haha.

[Kern Dog]

I'm learning as I go with this just like with other things that I have never done before.
The rear cam plug issue....I'm not pulling the engine to replace it. It does look like the fore/aft position of the roller camshafts need to be more precise since the roller wheels need to sit squarely on the lobes. A flat tappet lifter appears to have a much smaller contact point given the lobe taper and crown of the lifter.
In theory, if a roller cam were too far forward or rearward, the lifter roller wheel would not bear entirely on the lobes, they would hang off the edges.
To compare, here is mine again:



Here is yours:


I wonder if you use a straight edge across the machined edge of the vertical face and measure the depth of the cam plug, what the difference between our two engines is.

The lifters with the big blocks I've done do seem to hang off the edges of the lobes a bit. I'm going to have to ask my camshaft guy if that ever poses a problem.

[496polara]

I love the look of a fresh engine. New paint, no oil anywhere, all casting numbers and marks easily visible....it is great. 505 inches is a good choice.
A guy at FABO had a 505 with a cam slightly bigger than mine with untouched Trick Flow heads, I don't recall the intake but he I think he had a Holley 950 on it. The engine dyno'ed to 617 HP and torque in the mid 600 range. It all peaked under 6000 rpms too.
Good luck with the build.

That was my engine. Posted the build here in the proven engine combos as well. Intake was a Mopar performance M1 single plane.

Dwayne spec'd my cam and I had purchased the intake from him prior to this build coming together.

He is the man for cams lol. Be honest with your expectations and your intended usage for the car.

[timmycharger]

I'm learning as I go with this just like with other things that I have never done before.
The rear cam plug issue....I'm not pulling the engine to replace it. It does look like the fore/aft position of the roller camshafts need to be more precise since the roller wheels need to sit squarely on the lobes. A flat tappet lifter appears to have a much smaller contact point given the lobe taper and crown of the lifter.
In theory, if a roller cam were too far forward or rearward, the lifter roller wheel would not bear entirely on the lobes, they would hang off the edges.
To compare, here is mine again:



Here is yours:


I wonder if you use a straight edge across the machined edge of the vertical face and measure the depth of the cam plug, what the difference between our two engines is.

The lifters with the big blocks I've done do seem to hang off the edges of the lobes a bit. I'm going to have to ask my camshaft guy if that ever poses a problem.

I will go out there at some point later this week and will check that out. Mine is set in way deeper than yours.

[timmycharger]

I was changing out the bag for the short block and did a measurement of the rear plug.  Its hard to see but it looks around 5/8 deep

[Kern Dog]

...OR 7/16".
This coming from a retired Carpenter.