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Bolt On Frame Connectors?

Started by terrible one, June 24, 2006, 10:40:06 AM

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terrible one

Is anyone here using bolt on subframe connectors? I found that Mopar Performance makes these, and was wondering about them. I wouldn't think that they offer quite the stiffness of welded on connectors, but I would prefer the ease of installation.


Jon Smith

either weld them in or dont bother
the body will still flex with bolt in ones, and corrosion will start where the joints are

tan top

Quote from: Jon Smith on June 24, 2006, 11:14:02 AM
either weld them in or dont bother
the body will still flex with bolt in ones, and corrosion will start where the joints are
:iagree:  weld them in  :thumbs:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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andy74

what if you put the bolt on ones in then welded them? wouldnt that be stronger then just one or the other?

Mefirst

I use the MP subframe connectors, and I just bolted them on, I am planing on welding them later, but I personally don't think you will have any problems eventhough they are only bolted, well maby in the long run.. Use high grade bolts and nylock (sp) nuts...

Another thing, trust me on this!!! You WONT be able to bore the holes for the bolts straight through the hole in the connector, then frame rail and then hit the bullseye on the other side, no matter how steady your hand is.. You need to mount the connectors first where you want them, then hammer them so they really are in place, after that you can start to drill holes, drill the holes from both sides of the connector/frame rail... You also have to mod the connector end on the left side, it will interfere a little with the parking brake cable...

/Tom


bill440rt

Do you have any pics of yours on your car? A 2nd Gen maybe?
I'm interested in the bolt-on ones as well.
Any interference with the parking brake cable itself?
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Wakko

Welding will warp and weaken the metal, keep in mind.  If you DO weld it, do it carefully and slowly, allowing the metal to cool frequently.
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM



terrible one

Great pics man, I appreciate it. Did you notice a big difference or what?

Wakko

Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

crzyc68

Looks great.  Is that X pipe setup a kit or did you custom fab it together?

deputycrawford

I have had 2 X-pipes built for cars. I have one on my 69 Charger with a semi wild built 383 and will never use anything else again. All the "hum" is completely gone in the cab and you still get all the sound out the back. What a perfect mix.
If it ain't wide open; it ain't running.        Rule number one in motocross racing: Pin it; row the gear box; and wait until you hit something.     At work my motto is: If you need me, call someone else.

Mefirst

Quote from: terrible one on June 26, 2006, 12:56:21 PM
Great pics man, I appreciate it. Did you notice a big difference or what?
Quote from: crzyc68 on June 27, 2006, 11:59:15 AM
Looks great. Is that X pipe setup a kit or did you custom fab it together?

The whole exhaust system + Headers is TTi front to rear, cost a small fortune but worth the money spent. The exhaust system is more or less "Plug & Play", really easy to mount..

The sound is a perfect musclecar rumble, it will set off caralarms when you floor it, at idle it sounds gentle but once you hit the throttle, Ladys will pee their pants....

/Tom


crzyc68


4402tuff4u

As stated above, weld them on. Also, if you are going to install the type that does not leave a gap between the floor board and rail connector, make sure you make provisions to run the brake lines and fuel lines some place else, because the rails will in fact be in the way. If you are installing the ones that leave a gap, like the ones I had installed, would'nt hurt to run the lines first - make's life more enjoyable than trying to do it afterwards. Also figure out where the emergency brake cable is going to go through the rail connector and leave a window for that too.
"Mother should I trust the government?........... Pink Floyd "Mother"

terrible one

4402tuff4u and others,

What weld on connectors are you guys using? Where from?

4402tuff4u

Quote from: terrible one on June 29, 2006, 11:47:13 PM
4402tuff4u and others,

What weld on connectors are you guys using? Where from?

I bought mine from Year One using a 20 % discount ($ 80 +/-). Nothing special than just a 2" x 2" square tubing with an angled end. The one thing that was nice was that a window for the emergency cable was already cut out. I thought when I saw it in the YO catalog, that it was going to come with flanges at the ends - but it did not. I had to run the fuel lines and brake lines afterwards and it a bit tricky. That's why I suggest you install them first.
"Mother should I trust the government?........... Pink Floyd "Mother"

Silver R/T

Quote from: andy74 on June 24, 2006, 12:30:56 PM
what if you put the bolt on ones in then welded them? wouldnt that be stronger then just one or the other?

that would work just as well
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Blakcharger440

Quote from: Mefirst on June 25, 2006, 06:43:00 PM
I use the MP subframe connectors, and I just bolted them on, I am planing on welding them later, but I personally don't think you will have any problems eventhough they are only bolted, well maby in the long run.. Use high grade bolts and nylock (sp) nuts...

Another thing, trust me on this!!! You WONT be able to bore the holes for the bolts straight through the hole in the connector, then frame rail and then hit the bullseye on the other side, no matter how steady your hand is.. You need to mount the connectors first where you want them, then hammer them so they really are in place, after that you can start to drill holes, drill the holes from both sides of the connector/frame rail... You also have to mod the connector end on the left side, it will interfere a little with the parking brake cable...

/Tom


Hey Mefirst could you show a pic of how you modified your connector to not interfere with the parking brake cable ???

T16

Anyone got any pics of YearOne connectors to 3rd gen..? They must be bent or something.?
It´s a little more complicated on the 3rd gen  :icon_smile_angry:

daytonalo

Do yourself a favor , throw those in the garbage ! use the U.S car tool sub connectors , they weld in and they follow the countour of the floor pan . There is no comparison to the bolt in type , if you think about it the bolt in ones attach to 16 gage metal [ front to back ]. The U.S car tool weld to the floor and the front and back !

autodynamics

do you have a pic of the U.S car ones?

Chryco Psycho

I use a 1" X 2" square tube & notch the tube where it needs to be bent & weld the notch closed  I have them installed on my 3 rd gen  , I install them 2 wide & 1" tall so you cannot even see them 

bill440rt

I'm also using the MP bolt-on ones. The underside of the car is painted real nice, so welding them in now is not an option. I fitted them up, drilled the holes, & then painted the connectors body color to match the underside of the car.

Instead of just bolting them in, I will also grind to bare metal both the connector mating flange and the car where the connectors meet. Along with bolts, I will also use 3M bonding adhesive to install them. I figure, even if I can't weld them in, at least with the adhesive it'll be stronger than just bolting them in alone.

The parking brake cable will go OVER the connector, just under the floor. I'll put a small piece of rubber tubing over the cable to prevent rattling or rubbing on the connector.
They fit great, & are easy to install.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

daytonalo

Here they are , I know they look like shit  :yesnod:

firefighter3931

Quote from: daytonalo on November 06, 2006, 03:44:50 PM
Here they are , I know they look like shit  :yesnod:


I don't think they look like $hit at all ! The US cartool connecters are a nice fitting piece and they look like they were factory installed.  :yesnod:

I have the MP connecters welded in on my 68 but i'll go with the US cartool units when it comes time to tie the frames on the 70.  :icon_smile_cool:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

daytonalo

I say this because even after viewing and understanding how the US car tool sub- con are installed , some people will still make the argument that there is no advantage . Whats that saying , YOU CAN LEAD A HORSE----------
                                                                                                              Larry

Goldfinger71

US CAR TOOL !!
John and the guys know there stuff and are also a bunch of good guys!
1971 Charger R/T   GY9 Dark Gold Metallic, V1Y Gold Top, GY4 Light Gold Interior- A/C, Rimblow, PW, Front Disc, AM-FM, Tach, Light Package, Slotted Tips, Trailer Tow Package(MIA)and a few other odds and ends...including a luggage rack!

autodynamics

who had the info where to purchase the us subframes from???

firefighter3931

Quote from: autodynamics on November 07, 2006, 06:08:31 PM
who had the info where to purchase the us subframes from???

Magnum HP carries the US Cartool line. Greg Z at Magnum HP is excellent to deal with.  :icon_smile_big:


http://www.magnumhp.com/drivesusp.php



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

BlueSS454

I bought a set of the Competition Engineering blot on connectors from Summit Racing and welded them on.  It took me about an hour.\
Tom Rightler

dkn1997

Quote from: daytonalo on August 31, 2006, 09:38:06 AM
Do yourself a favor , throw those in the garbage ! use the U.S car tool sub connectors , they weld in and they follow the countour of the floor pan . There is no comparison to the bolt in type , if you think about it the bolt in ones attach to 16 gage metal [ front to back ]. The U.S car tool weld to the floor and the front and back !

can you mig those in?  I am considering a set and a friend has a mig welder.  How difficult was it?  consider that I am not a welder and my buddy who has the machine knows how to weld, but he's no expert either...
RECHRGED

Silver R/T

that is exactly how you weld them in
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Goldfinger71

Hey Guys,
You can deal directly with John at uscartool.com or give him a call at 919-855-8200 :icon_smile_cool:
He is also fabricating a few 66-67 Charger items as well(ie...trunk medallion,etc.)
1971 Charger R/T   GY9 Dark Gold Metallic, V1Y Gold Top, GY4 Light Gold Interior- A/C, Rimblow, PW, Front Disc, AM-FM, Tach, Light Package, Slotted Tips, Trailer Tow Package(MIA)and a few other odds and ends...including a luggage rack!

SeattleCharger


   What are these for exactly?   ???


Why would you want anything else?  Just give me a Charger and I'll be happy.

Silver R/T

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722