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Paint in spray gun between coats

Started by 68mmcharger, December 07, 2006, 09:28:40 PM

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68mmcharger

Will paint dry in the spray gun between coats?  Does the gun need to be cleaned and refilled between coats?

resq302

The mixed paint has what is called a "pot life".  You should be good if you apply additional coats within that time but make sure that you do clean out your paint gun after each use otherwise you will be buying a new paint gun like I had to do.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

69bananabeast

are you painting in a booth/outside/garage? all of those affect the Flash time (drying) of your coat due to temperature.. you shouldnt have to clean it between each coat it's more of a preference, as long as you dont leave the paint in it for a lenthy amount of time.  Paint should have like a 10-15min. flash time  before the next coat.  as mentioned  earlier find out about the pot life
1969 Charger  446
1970 Charger  318
1932 Ford Rat Rod   (under construction)

bill440rt

If you are doing a lot of spraying, say an overall paint job, you may have to clean the spray gun tip in between coats. This may also apply if you are spraying in a confined area such as the engine compartment or inside the trunk, sometimes you'll get some paint build up around the orifices of the spray gun tip. I've never had to clean out the entire gun in between coats, though.
You WILL have to clean it out when changing from base to clear. You probably knew that though, duh!!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

TylerCharger69

As long as you continue your next coat between flash times....you should be good...however....I, myself  excercise cleaning practices between coats of metallic paints.   I just run some reducer through the gun before the next coat when using metallics.   Sometimes it can clog up the tip as opposed to plain colors.   Just my 2 cents worth

BlueSS454

The pot life on most paints that I have used is 3 hours.  Generally, by the time you finish applying 1 coat, the flash time has already begun to set in where you started.  It takes longer to go around a car with a paint gun longer than you think.  It took me 2 hours to shoot the color on the Cuda.
Tom Rightler

68mmcharger

Thanks for all the feedback guys!! It sure is nice to have somewhere to get these types of answers. My main concern was if paint would dry in the spray gun tip.

I will be painting in a garage. My base coat will be PPG Deltron 2000 DBC (color 60492), MM paint code. Does anyone know if there is enough metallic in this color that I should run reducer through the gun between coats?

bill440rt

Again, I've never had to run reducer thru the gun in between coats. Maybe just clean the tip, that's about it.

The BEST place to look for these answers, if you're not sure, is the paint store where you're buying the materials. Otherwise, you're just getting opinions, not facts.
Good Luck!
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

Lord Warlock

I've never had to run reducer between coats myself, but I DO always run reducer thru the gun after finishing a painting session (about 2 hours) or when i go thru 2 cups or so.  In my case I rarely mix more than 2 quarts at a time with the reducers/hardeners so I'm not worrying about wasted paint or pot life.  By all means, once you finish for the day, disassemble the gun and clean it thoroughly, or you may have to replace the gun, both of my FLG3 guns turned crappy after not completely cleaning them after use (thought i did, but didn't do a good enough job, and on the next job got crappy results on the inital spray attemtps) 

I've had House of Kolor polyurethane not harden in the gun even if you leave it overnight as long as there was 1/5 of the cup left in it, but if the cup is dry it usually dries in 3 to 5 hours.  Single stage acrylics however would dry in 3 hours (had hardener in it) as would clearcoats.  Don't attempt leaving paint in the gun if you have metalflake mixed though, it collects in the tips. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

hemi-hampton

I was spraying some Sikkens high build primer a few years ago. Pot life was only 1/2 hour in regular temp. I was priming in middle of summer at like 100 degrees & 90% humidity. In less then 15 minutes before I even had 1 full primer coat on car the primer was getting hard in cup/gun (not good). Usually non catalyzed paint like some base coats have a long pot life. It's the Catalyzed paints you have to look out for. LEON.

Lord Warlock

Which guns (and tips) do you use Leon? for basecoats? and clearcoats?  While i've been satisifed with the guns I have for basecoats I've never been happy with shooting clears.  I almost always shoot in temps between 70-90 degrees, and high humidity conditions.  I don't seem to have trouble with flat surfaces doing clears, its usually the vertical ones I had more issues with. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

jordyjim

warlock, is your clear heavy orange peel look on your vertical panels? if its really hot i get that problem, it doesnt flow as well in heat are you using a 2 pack clear or single,try a slower activater, if that doesnt work then its wet sand and buff mate..jim

Lord Warlock

the orange peel seems to be more prevelant on the vertical panels, seems to be fine on flat panels.  The clears usually use a hardener/activator.  Sometimes the orange peel is less noticeable.  But I've gotten used to wetsanding and buffing. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

jordyjim

warlock,are you using a 2pack thinner? or a standard,the 2pack will help it flow more i just use a fast evaporating standard, but its minus 5 degrees in the uk at the moment..jim

Lord Warlock

I usually use the reducer made by whatever manufacturer that makes the paint.  I don't use 2pack thinner, never heard of it.  Painted with House of Kolor clear/HOK medium dry reducer or fast dry reducer/hok activator.   
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

jordyjim

is your reducer our 2pack thinner? i only here the term reducer from you american boys can anyone clarify this?..jim

Lord Warlock

jim, explain for me what 2pack thinner is.  Evidently this is a language difference, or cultural.  Reducer is the same thing as thinner, used with polyurethane enamel paints.  Depending on mixing instructions of the paint, you may have a 3:1 ratio of paint/reducer, or for clears you usually have a 4:1:1 ratio of clearcoat:activator: reducer.   

I assume your 2pack is thinner.  What type of paints do you use it with? 

I pretty much stick with polyurethane enamels, or acrylic enamels.  House of Kolor paint is 2 stage basecoat/clearcoat paint, HOK clear requires a hardener/activator as well as a reducer/thinner. 
69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.

jordyjim

ok i will try and explain, i use what they call 2k which consists of an  iscocyanate based paint and a hardener usually mixed at a ratio of 2 paint 1 hardener and 10 percent thinner(2k thinner] reducer, clear coats are the same, i use polyester base mettallics combined with 2k clearcoat[lacquer} so 2k thinners is the correct reducer for this paint, you can use standard thinner if you want,but it evaporates alot quicker than the 2k thinner i woul call polyurethane a 1k synthetic i assume your reducer contains xylene which is aslow evaporating thinner have you got that...cos i havnt..ha ha ???