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Tach for my 3rd gen..?

Started by T16, August 18, 2007, 11:17:21 AM

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T16

Anyone have any tips for a tachometer for my 3rd gen..? Dont want to mess up the interior, so i´m thinking of placing it under the dash.. in the center...
Another option would be replacing the clock with an stock tach.. are these hard to find..? Expensive..?

Would be great with some info or some links  :icon_smile_big:

Ghoste

I like the factory tachs in those cars and they aren't impossible to find, but they aren't cheap either.   :Twocents:

T16


Ghoste

Don't know on e-bay.  I remember looking at some last week at the Nats because a friend of mine is looking for one for his car.  I looked at some that Greg Garner was selling from Real Time Engineering and my memory wants to say they were around 2 or 3 hundred bucks but I think he has a website and it might be best to check there than to trust my crappy recall abilities.

chgr500

Quote from: Ghoste on August 18, 2007, 11:21:17 AM
I like the factory tachs in those cars and they aren't impossible to find, but they aren't cheap either.   :Twocents:

I wondered about these tach's offered through year one....should be a 7k tach  :icon_smile_question:  seem reasonably priced..

$229 71-4 b body... $238 with the wiring harness

Charger1973

Yeah for some reason the "repro" 3rd gen tachs go to 8k but the originals were 7k.   :shruggy:

Ghoste

It's okay to take them higher now, the original Chrysler warranty's are all used up.  :icon_smile_big:

chgr500

Quote from: Charger1973 on August 18, 2007, 07:27:49 PM
Yeah for some reason the "repro" 3rd gen tachs go to 8k but the originals were 7k.   :shruggy:

That's the same tach I currently have...quit working a few years back....I have purchased the RTE solid state replacement parts,  but have yet to install it......the original tachs use a paper circuit board...Hmmm.... paper and 25+ years=no workie tach  :cheers:

no318

I thought that the 7000 vs 8000 RPM was due to year.  E-body used the same tach, right?  That is what I had always heard, and I THINK the earlier ones (ie 1971) were 8000 and later ones (ie 1974) where 7000.  Not sure on that.

Nacho-RT74

alll 7K... 8K are repro.

price... more less the same but originals without warranty to works
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

BMOTOXSTAR

Wish I had a Tach for my 73' Rally. :pity:
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Ghoste

It's as easy as a couple hundred bucks and an afternoon of your life.  :yesnod:

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: no318 on August 18, 2007, 09:27:15 PM
I thought that the 7000 vs 8000 RPM was due to year.  E-body used the same tach, right?  That is what I had always heard, and I THINK the earlier ones (ie 1971) were 8000 and later ones (ie 1974) where 7000.  Not sure on that.
nothing from E body cluster is interchangeable.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Ghoste

Surprisingly, even the bulbs for lighting the two style clusters are different.


Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Ghoste on August 19, 2007, 09:51:11 AM
Surprisingly, even the bulbs for lighting the two style clusters are different.

of course... cluster ligthning on E bodies is an external panel below dash pad
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

The70RT

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T16


chgr500


Nacho-RT74

Quote from: T16 on August 19, 2007, 01:33:52 PM
Quote from: 71charger_fan on August 19, 2007, 11:05:43 AM
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again..  :eek2:

really is not necesary. Remove radio and cluster screws to get room. You can install from below the dash frame. I have removed the clock on that way.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

T16

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on August 19, 2007, 03:24:21 PM
Quote from: T16 on August 19, 2007, 01:33:52 PM
Quote from: 71charger_fan on August 19, 2007, 11:05:43 AM
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/71-74tac2.jpg

Hmm.. ship worldwide..

But dont know if I want to tear my dash down again..  :eek2:

really is not necesary. Remove radio and cluster screws to get room. You can install from below the dash frame. I have removed the clock on that way.


Ok.. may work.

Nacho-RT74

it is some tricky, but is posible to do it
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Charger1973

I always pull the dash for stuff like that.  I just pulled mine and installed the 150/tach gauge cluster yesterday, and reinstalled the dash today.  Its a peice of cake after you do it a few times. 



BMOTOXSTAR

Dear 3rd Gen Master,
    Please teach me your ways of removing dash pad & cluster. :yesnod: I am very confused, other threads confuse me about this removal. :shruggy:
I am a Green Grasshopper that needs your wisdom. :yesnod: :shruggy:
73' Dodge Rallye Charger 400/4BBL
06' Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4X4 HEMI
15' Dodge Dart 2.7 SXT

Nacho-RT74

complete dash frame:

-Remove headliner moldings at sides, inside windshield molding and then pillar post panels.

-Remove door sill moldings and kick panels.

-let fall steering column from dash frame. Unplug harnesses undercolumn.

-unplug every wire linked with body harnesses and switch: brake pedal switch, hazzard flasher, both sides door jam switches, rear harness at driver side kick, rear speaker harnes if equiped, rear deff harness if equipped, emergency brake switch, headlights dimmer, dome light plug, speedo wire, A/C harness at box, heater wire, vacuum lines, radio antena wire, seatbelts sensors wires, engine bay harnesses from bulhead,remove bulkhead from firewall ( 2 7/16" nuts on engine bay ).

-remove speaker grill: 3 phillips screws at fron, 4 1/4" hex screws at windshield vents.

-remove 4 3/8" bolts at windshield area.

-removing kick panels you will find 2 ( one at each side ) 7/16" or 1/2" bolts, dunno remember... loose NOT REMOVE those bolts.

-Then dash frame will be ready to remove, just need slight flipt it up and let it fall to you.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html