Engine Wiring Harness Question....

[Nacho-RT74]

About the black heavy wire with burnt spot on cavity. Don't worry, just cut terminal conector and install a new one OR clean and polish the old one. I would cut, add a new terminal, crimping and also solding. Those terminals are still available new.

That wire runs from there up to black side of ammeter with an splice in the middle. That splice have two red wires, the one to fuse box batt side and the ignition switch one and three blacks, the one coming from bulhead, the one running to ammeter and one running to headlighst switch. Replace is not that easy ( beside the tedious job of retape )

Really replace terminal is just enough the weak point is JUTS there, rest normally is completelly safe. I would upgrade also the charging system and wiring, but that's another story. For a while that will be enough to at least start the car and in fact use it SAFE.

About the compressor clutch taped wire. That wire simply runs from A/C control switch up there, Untape and replace the complete wire won't be that hard since is a separated harness from rest of underdash harness. The easier way is just cut the damaged section wire splice a new one solding, taping and shrinking tube there. However being not that hard I would remove and check. we don't know the reason why become damaged since different from the black Alt wire above what is a tipical fail because regular use, this one could it be shorted on engine bay somehow and then started to melt along the line. That's not a normal damage because normal use.

To remove that harness from the rest just need:
1- remove green and blue wires from bulkhead cavities
2-Unplug harness from A/C control unit ( both pigtails ) On larger pigtail you will find a black wire coming from underdash harness that needs to be removed from A/C plug to unlink the A/C harness from the underdash harness... press the terminal tab on cavity like you do on bulkhead terminals.
3-Unplug accesories source wire. Is a bullet kind terminal. You won't need to search it... harness will let you fin it LOL.

That will be enough to work inside the car and untape harness to check that clutch blue wire from end to end. Rest of harness is inside dash running up to A/C box resistor, but blue wire doesn't run up that point Harness section runing up A/C box is just the blower speed selector resistor wires. If the rest of that blue wire is perfect ( what allmost sure it is ) probably you will be saying ALL THIS F****NG JOB TO SEE THE WIRE IS PERFECT AND JUST DAMAGED THE VISIBLE SECTION ?... I say YES and you know now rest is safe .

P.S.: I say replace is not really hard but that doesn't mean comfortably LOL. The uncomfortably job is try to remove the harnes from the wiring plastic rail above the cluster inside dash

[Nacho-RT74]

ACTUALLY i'M THINKING ABOUT ALL THIS STUFF:

loosen terminal with black traced white wire...

melted plug ( probably same wiper plug you show on another pic  )

red traced yellow wire with female bullet plug... nothing wrong about, just dunno what it is... will check diagrams

AND on second pic... that heavy red wire 

[Hot_Rodder]

Hmmm.... Where to start.... jeeze, good question, lol.
All right, loose wires.
The connector I'm pretty sure, as discussed before, is probably wiper connector, the switch isn't even in place on the dash....
The black wire with white tracer, 
The bullet plug, ummmm  either...
The second pic, that big red wire, I think is connectoed, just doesn't look like it in that pic, I'll check it again when I go outside.

As for the black wire on engine harness, I'll go ahead and replace that connector terminal.



P.S.: I say replace is not really hard but that doesn't mean comfortably LOL. The uncomfortably job is try to remove the harnes from the wiring plastic rail above the cluster inside dash


Ummmm, I got some fairly good size hands, I hope it's not gonna be that much of a pain, otherwise, I'll loosen up that dash cluster assembly, and hopefully do it the easy way.... Plus, I'm a good size guy anyway, trying to get under that dash in the first place isn't all that fun either . . But one way or another, it'll get done.

Here's another question for ya about "missing wires" which I can't comprehend why in the world I missed this earlier when I was comparing them . It's the bottom right hand side wire, a blue/green kind of color

Also a pic of the current exhuast setup, and the new alternator installed.

Also, check the previous pictures, and try and take notice to the wires behind the radio, see any of the sheavthing missing on any of the wire, like someon might have cut some of it off to try and tap into it or something? I don't know what has happened to this car, but dang. Also, got to thinking, the burned wire, might that have something to do with the tying of the wires together?

[Nacho-RT74]

The wires on radio area ( green violet and black ) are speakers wires. Green positive left channel ( dash speaker ), violet, positive right channel ( rear speaker ), black, common negative.

Dunno wat else to see on that area beside that.

The blue/greenish cut wire on old engine harness plug must be in fact the COMPRESSOR CLUTCH wire that is tapped on back of bulkhhead. You wiill need install the blue wire from your new A/C harness on that engine harness plug, removing from the male plug came with your new A/C harness.

[Hot_Rodder]

 . And around we go about these harnesses. Ok, so what wire is what. I got two missing wires that I know of, one on the tranny harness connector, and the one on the engine harness connector. So what's what? This si starting to become quite the pain in the  . On the other hand, it's worth it, so...

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok... I don't get your doubt hahaha... lets start again

You have 2 extra wires on tranny harness and engine harness right ? both cut. Those wires were both the old A/C harness

Also you have a new harness what it is the A/C harness... right ? WITH 2 WIRES.

Well, all you have to do is remove the male plug isolator from your new A/C harness and get two spade male terminals One of them will be inserted on engine harness plug. The other one will be inserted on tranny harness. As I can see, the blue one from A/C harness ( compressor clutch ) will be added to engine harnes and green wire from A/C harness ( blower ) will be added on tranny plug.

Is more clear now ?

[Hot_Rodder]

Leme try this, this way Man this wiring is being a pain

On the old Tranny harness there's 4 wires, all cut, new one, there's only three wires, therefore, missing one. On the int that wire, I think, is the one that's burned some

On the old engine harness there's however many wires on it, but on the new one, it's short one wire, and it's the blue/green color.

So you said:
You have 2 extra wires on tranny harness and engine harness right ? both cut. Those wires were both the old A/C harness

If by saying this you mean the above, then yes .

HMMMM, I must not be fully awake yet, my heads a bit spinning right now, LOL. :
As I can see, the blue one from A/C harness ( compressor clutch ) will be added to engine harnes and green wire from A/C harness ( blower ) will be added on tranny plug.

Can, if you don't mind, pulling up the pic of the new tranny pic, and pointing out which wires you're talking about . I have the harness next to me right now, and I'm looking at it scratching my head, lol.

[Nacho-RT74]

let's try with a graphic explanation LOL.

Cut blue/greenish wire on old engine harness is Compressor clutch wire.

Cut Green wire on old tranny harness is blower wire.

You will remove the new A/C harness male insulator plug from harness, and those male spade terminals will be inserted on your new engine and tranny harnesses empty cavities  to get again same original setup.

Those empty cavities on new harnesses are already filled on bulkhead plug with same wires to compressor and blower. So you will complete the route to feed the blower and compressor.

Better now ?

making this you'll have engine and tranny harnesses linked by the A/C harness... That's the way it was made

[Hot_Rodder]

 . Got it now, too bad it took a dang picture for me to get it though . So, as you said, just install this harness in those locations, and hopefully everything will work fine.... Only time will tell..... By the way, still have not had the chance to go and get a replacement female spade connector for the inside of the car for that black wire, and still need to work on that burned wire..... But right now, I'm working nights, so....

Thanks Nacho for all the help so far.

[Nacho-RT74]

Maybe I got it hard to explain ? sorry but my english sometimes could it be some confusing 

Chargerspecialties, paddock, year one etc... have those terminals. Paddock has then sold as 10 pieces kit.

http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=6654&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPlymouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D70%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPlymouth%20Electrical&mscssid=9EF203767EA7411AB81E6424EC6A1071
http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=6653&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D4%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CDodge%2FPlymouth&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D70%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CDodge%2FPlymouth%20Electrical&mscssid=9EF203767EA7411AB81E6424EC6A1071

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/headline.asp?hid=112AA4833

http://www.chargerspecialties.com/catalog.htm ( check wiring repair section )

[Hot_Rodder]

Hey Nacho, you forgot one connector, and I just realized it b/c I started wondering what in the world it is..... On the pic that has the pic's of the bulkhead connector in it, the first wire coming off the harness is two black wires, going into one spade terminal connector, I think this is a female connector. It's a little difficult too see, but it's there....

[Nacho-RT74]

you mean the labeled on 5 now ( file edited )?... sorry I forgott yes. Is just a plug to test the brake light at cluster to be sure wiring and bulb are good up to cluster on brakes warning system, goes to nowhere. You ground that plug just to be sure you have a nice brake warning system and you'll have the alarm in case of brakes emergency on road without need to unplug and ground the prop valve plug

Is just spliced from prop valve plug wire

[Hot_Rodder]

  Another one of those wires that just "hangs around"

[Nacho-RT74]

well really is the ONLY one that once you get everything plugged on engine bay will be hanging around.

The problem right now is: for a while you don't have the stock oil sender, ECU module, elect dist and winshield washer, all those wires will be hanging around LOL.

[Hot_Rodder]

yeah, it's that way... for now But eventualy, it'll have the M.P. elec. dist, chrome box, ect ect ect...

Hey Nacho, got another question for ya, I found, under the dash, another somewhat melted connector.... I need to get a pic of it for ya, but I have no clue to where this one goes....... I think it's got three wires in/out, most, if not all, orange colored if I remember right....

Sorry about the first pic quality, but I'm sure get the point? My memory is obviously not for.... but it was somewhat close, 4 wires instead of 3, and there are orange wires, but there's also black... Close, but still.....

[Nacho-RT74]

For the area I can see you took the pic and colors, definitivelly should it be A/C control lightning plug.

What I definitivelly I don't get is how the hell that plug is able to get melt . I'm toward from was an external melt, not internal.

They are 2 black ( negative ) and two orange ( positive from cluster dimmer ) because 71/72 A/C control panels use two bulbs, one at each side, and both socket pigtails are spliced directly from T plug. You don't have to worry because you can reuse the T plug you won't use from the A/C harness LOL... Just clean and polish if posible the terminals and insert on the plug.

On second pic the cut wires from speakers are more visible. Good radio option... stereo and cassette pigtail . Just sold, tape &/or and shrinking tube on each one

[Hot_Rodder]

A little bit later on today after I get some sleep, worked last night, I'll get up under there, and see what I can see, plus fix those two previous mentioned wires for the bulkhead connector..... Then maybe, hopefully, fire it up.

[Hot_Rodder]

All right now, lets see here..... Tried to connect the harness connectors to the bulkhead connector, and I can't get it on. I don't know why it's not wanting to go on, but it doesn't want to. Any ideas? Right now I'm trying to get the tranny harness on first, then go to the wiper, which I have not replaced, followed by the forard harness, then the engine harness (which is new)... I have not tried the engine harness yet, but hopefully it will go on without a problem.... Both the wiper and forward harnesses are original for now.

[Nacho-RT74]

Probably terminals are not aligned with cavities. Is not weird being the new ones without the rubber filler on plug cavity what makes they move some freely

[Hot_Rodder]

I'll try moving some of the wires around little later on once I've gotten my sleep for today. If that doesn't work, then I'm concidering switching at the plugs. Nothing wrong with the old one, other than the look of age, only the wires were messed up. I guess we'll see what we see..

[Nacho-RT74]

is not the plugs... that rubber filler is attached on to wire and terminal. nothing to do with plug. Don't worry... will finally be plugged just need more dedication.

[Hot_Rodder]

well, I took a flat head screwdriver, and "dedicated it" on it place. I had to push she male spade connector toward the center because it was too much toward the outside, and it went on. The others went on well. I had just a little bit of a problem with the engine harness connector, but nothing much, with my somewhat big hands, had a little bit of a time getting to the connector well enough to get some leverage on it to push it on, so I took a pry bar, and gently pushed it on, no damage done. On the insdie, got all that hooked back up, left the fuse block hanging for now. Hooked the battery up, with a fire extinguisher near if needed. No smoke, no fire,  . And that goes for both inside and outside of the car. Turned the key to the on/run position, again, no smoke anywhere . Turned the key to start, and the starter engaged,  . But quickly found out the battery has dropped some bit in power .  . Is there some kind of an unseen force that just doesn't want this car to run? Or is it "The curse of the old cars" thing? Either way, when I'm heading home tomorrow, I'll stop and pick the battery charger up... again...

[Nacho-RT74]

Even with some drain on power engine should start on. The power drain is another diff story. Unless you have the drain for a while is cranking, what is NORMAL... In fact is normal get discharge reading with just open the door and put the key on Run position since you are having consumption on cluster, on engine bay ( ballast ), dome light, key in buzzer, etc...

Once you have everything hooked up on engine, check on start position for 12 Volts on bue wirea at ballast and around 9 volts on + lead of coil.
You must get 12 volts on Start position at + lead of coil.

That's enought to start the engine if dist is good, with good timing etc... gas on carb.

If you want to be sure about no drain on engine bay, for example on charging system ( reg an alt brush ), just unhook reg and alt fields untill get started the engine.

BTW check for a thread I started to get a good charging system, with upgraded alt and wiring.

[Hot_Rodder]

I saw you talking about how to wire up a good charging system. The battery is pretty much dead, when I first got in, and turned the key, the motor turned over, and quickly slowed down, and I mean slowed down, so I brought the battery charger over, and once I get it hooked up, I'll see what it reads first, the needle will only go up to a "15" reading, and that's at a max charge, so, we'll see what we see when I plug it up.