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Engine Wiring Harness Question....

Started by Hot_Rodder, August 21, 2007, 06:17:18 AM

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What would you suggest?

Beat it until it works?
2 (20%)
Kick it until it works?
2 (20%)
Shoot it?
4 (40%)
Burn it?
2 (20%)
Other? (please specify below)
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 10

Hot_Rodder

 :o Ok, first off, the choices above are not being serious, I wouldn't plan on doing any of that stuff to my car on purpose, had ya going a little though... :hah:
Anyway, here's my problem (since this is my 3rd time trying to post this, I'll make it breif).
I bought 3 wiring harnesses from a certain place that I want mention the name of right now. They finaly came in, and gave them a little look over. Went ahead and pulled the old harness out, taking pic's of locations and so fourth. In one of the pic's below, you'll see the firewall connector for this harness being unplugged, and you'll notice that one of the ports are burned, anyone know what port this is? I need to get a wiring diagram for this car, but for right now, I don't have one :rotz:. So, once trying to install the harness, I started noticing things that wasn't right, or doesn't seem to be right. Here are the things I've noticed so far:
1: When the harness connector comes out (the part that plugs into the firewall), there's only one wire that cuts back toward the brake booster, the old one had two
2: The new harness has more wires in it, than the old one
3: Location of some wires don't seem to line up right, and with the alternator plugged up, the temp sending unit wire has to stretch to reach the sending unit
4: Some of the connectors are different (the brake porportioning valve connector is different, and the main alternator connector wire is different)
5: Some of the wire colors don't match up
6: I'm sure there's more, but these are right off the top of my head

Now, I'm replacing the old harness for a number of reasons, most of which is, one of the previous owners, did a mean hack job on it. They cut off connectors, and left bare wires open, and then some. I don't have a lot to compare with, when it comes to the old harness, but something just doesn't seem right.

Anyway, check the pic's out, there's a few, and let me know what you think. I've been racking my brain some here, and I'm only getting closer to :RantExplode:.

I've thought about ordering up a Year One harness, and compare them, but at $160+ well..... ::)

Hot_Rodder

Here's a pic, please note the burned port on this firewall connector, does anyone know what port this is?

Hot_Rodder

And some more...

Hot_Rodder

and more.....

Hot_Rodder

I have a few other pic's to post, but due to there just over 200 kb size, I can't post them yet.... ::)

Hot_Rodder

OK, I sorta resized them.... Only thing is, I didn't resize them, I edited them... Put 'em on paint shop, and "erased" alot of the background that's not important, seems to have worked b/c it's no longer over 200 kb.... :D

Hot_Rodder

Last pic to post.... By the way, can anyone tell me if they can see where the exhuast pipe stops now? :D

Hot_Rodder

OK, so anyone got any ideas? Like I said, I'm considering getting a harness from Year One, and compare the two.... I dun know :shruggy:

Nacho-RT74

Ok first does look you car is 71 because I can see electronic  regulator but not electronic ignition module on car. Harness on car and the one you got are for electrinic ignition modules. That's not really a problem since you simply can keep unplugged those ignition modules stuff unplugged and will work the same because points dist conects directly to - lead of coil. Then L shaped rubber plug and ECU plug will be floating around. Also ballast double plugs must be plugged on brown wire and any of blues.

The burn spot on bulhead mostly sure is the alternator wire whatr is not rare on Mopars. there ia a solution for that. Can you send me those pics to my email and I will ilustrate you whats the deal on this ? Will post here thought but resized

Damn, you have several harnesses hacked out!!! tranny harness for example. Does look you don't have back up lamps working properlly. Your actually engine harness too. Doesn't need to be hacked to make it works on a points system being electronic one.

If you think on hack it, the better sell to someone what needs it it and get a points one. If not then keep it and you'll have averything ready to electronic upgrade.

In advance I can say the worng color wires are on the one you had on car LOL... they must be cut and replaced at some point of harness.

At the very front of the harness pic ( new and old side by side ) I can say you, your one is hacked, the new one does have:
Violet 90º bullet kind terminal
L shaped rubber plug, Elec ingintion dist plug ( not used to you )
Blue female spade + source to field of alt
Green female spade - source to field of alt
Black heavy wire with eyelet term, Alt stud
Black traced white small eyelet terminal, - lead of coild coming from ECU ( not used to you... dist wire is the one must connected there on coil )
Brown female spade terminal, windshield washer motor ( what it says me that harness is 72 electronic, not 73/74  )
Brown eyelet terminal, + lead of coil
Blue spliced wire female spade, just right at the middle of harness, very bottom of pic, is source to electronic assist choke control unit ( not mounted on your car )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Second pic I can see:
Same blue wire spliced on female spade terminal that pic above and already stated the function.

-Ecu Plug
-Regulator plug
-Ballast plugs, already attached. You can keep that ballast to work AS IS attaching to firewall with your actually setup, just that half of ballast will be the working. If you decide to run single ballast, then brown and blue spliced wires section of double plugs must be the ones plugged at single ballast.
-Gray wire to Oil sender. Apparently you don't have the elec sender unit, you have pressure guage inside you car where arrives directly the oil.

Lat pic appears same wires above plus the brake dist block black wire. Yeh diff plug but should work the same since is not more tha a bullet plug plugging on a stud ( similar to temp sender ). That's the brake fail sensor wire and would turn on brake light at clsuer if some pressure fail. Shares the function with emergency brake pedal.

The black spliced wire with a female spade terminal VERY CLOSE to bulkhead engine harness plug is not more than the brake dist block wire spliced for test purpouse. Plugs nowhere.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ChgrSteve67

I paid $1,000 for all new wiring harnesses for my Charger from Year One and they were worth every penny.

Will cost less than a car fire later.

Steve ( Just my 2 cents )

Ghoste


Hot_Rodder

Hey Nacho, see you found this post, LOL. Anyway, one of the previous owners did this hack job, and I hate it, alot. Anyway, I'll be replacing the points setup with an electronic setup, so those connectors for the distributor and control unit will be used. This Charger is a '72, manufacture date, if memory serves me right ::), is 2/72..... I'll make copies of the wiring details, and take it to the car with me, and see what's what. As for pic's, which one(s) you want? If you'd like some taken a little closer up of things, I can do that too. I started installing the harness on the car, and hooked up what I could, but there are a number of ends with no apparent place to go.... Some I know where they go, but the rest :shruggy:. The ones I do know about are the ECU connector, and the distributor connector, the rest I'll look at with what you've posted above. I've gotten a Year One harness before on a '69 Charger R/T that I had with 440/auto, and it was a nice fit, even though the car has only been gone fore a couple of years now, I miss it :'(.

Since I've started running the wires on the car, I may take a pic or two of it, I've not plugged the bulkhead connector up as of yet though.

Nacho-RT74

Quote from: Hot_Rodder on August 21, 2007, 06:17:18 AM
1: When the harness connector comes out (the part that plugs into the firewall), there's only one wire that cuts back toward the brake booster, the old one had two
2: The new harness has more wires in it, than the old one
3: Location of some wires don't seem to line up right, and with the alternator plugged up, the temp sending unit wire has to stretch to reach the sending unit
4: Some of the connectors are different (the brake porportioning valve connector is different, and the main alternator connector wire is different)
5: Some of the wire colors don't match up
6: I'm sure there's more, but these are right off the top of my head

1:it could be the wiper washer bottle was relocated on to driver side for  while originally 71/72 are on passanger side inner fender
2:jacked off... dist wires where cut for example because your one is not electronic, is points, and maybe to not get the plug floating around. Oil sender is not anymore electrical on your car, replaced with a mechanical system, then wire cut too. Probably the same with temp sender. Coils is being feeded directly from ballast and was unused the bypass ballast feed from ignition switch... not good, then PROBABLY harder to start, specially cold.
3:brake plug is diff shape but works the same. Harness is noticeable new repro. Alt stud is same, just without collar insulator.
5: the new one is the right colors setup. Old one probably replaced because some damages on some point.
6:OK... keep them coming

Probably ( mostly sure ) the YO harness IS THAT SAME ONE you already have.

If you want an opinion YOU HAVE THE EXACT AND PERFECT HARNESS to your car and ready to electronic ignition setup upgrade. If you don't go BY NOW with elec upgrade, you can use that same harness anyway, just that Module plug, Dist plug, and eyelet terminal black traced white wire to - lead of coil will keep unplugged.

Now pics with labels and legen
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Nacho-RT74

Tranny harness needs to be checked or replaced.

Burn spot... terminal needs to be removed from bulhead then cleaned and reinstalled, or better, terminal replaced. Must be the alt stud wire. Tipical Mopar stuff.

Headdlights harness looks perfect and healthy on bulhead plug, but mostly sure must have a similar burnt spot at heavy red wire cavity
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Well, that blows, I had posted a nice reply, and it didn't go through.... Figures... Anyhow, thanks for the pic's with explanations Nacho. The pic's that I'm trying to upload... Are of how the wiring harness is ran right now... Don't think I did a bad job going at it blindedly.... Anyway, I will be converting the car back to electronic ign with a Mopar Dist, and a chrome box.... So... As far as the tran's harness, I have a new one also, and I even have a new A/C harness. The rest of the harnesses are still at a store because this place only had these three harnesses for this car... Anyway, since this does seem to be an accurate repoduction of this harness, and seems to be a very good repoduction of it, here's a link to there site (Nacho, you should know which one it is already due to the fact that the link is over at wicharger)... http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html There may be some pop up ads, so be forwarned, I have pop up blocker, so I didn't see any.

Hot_Rodder

Try this again, here's the last 2 pic's, the first I had to modify for size reasons, even though it was at the max size limit of 200 KB, it wouldn't take it, so now it's under 200 KB....

Nacho-RT74

never have seen before that water temp sender location. Normally is at alt bracket area..

Yes I know evanswiring website, but I make my own harnesses. I won't pay thatmuch for something I made in $20-40 as much ( reusing plastic plugs ). BTW, pop ups ARE REALLY POP UPS, not enlarged pics windows. Just got an engine harness from ebay mostly because 74 is different setup, and my harness has cracked several of the plugs. Also several splices I'm trying to eliminate.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Nacho, when I first saw the temp sender, I thought the same thing. So I tried to see if there was another hole around the alternator bracket (like it was on my old 440), and I have not seen one... I'm not sure what 383 this is, as far as what year, and what it came out of, so.... Maybe on this particular motor, they put it here for some reason? :shruggy:

Nacho-RT74

that's because you where SEARCHING FOR A HOLE like the Alt bracket to NON A/C set ups. you have an A/C setups with compressor removed and a pulley instead. A/C setups  use a smaller alt bracket bolted on different places and water temp sender is not thorught a hole, is at a side of bracket, on curved inner area.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Hot_Rodder

Hmmm... Well, looks like I need to look in anothe area also. That 440 originaly came with A/C, this motor, 383, probably didn't, but then again :shruggy:

Hot_Rodder

I just took these two pic's, a bit messy, but heck, lets see here, previous owner let it sit for a few years.... Owner before apparently hacked the wiring harness... And before that, who knows.... It'll be treated right now, well, do the best I can with what I got. :icon_smile_cool:

srpntlair1

How true it is or not, I don't know, but I heard YR 1 has the rights to mopar wiring harnesses. All I know of as a fact is when I ordered my engine harness 73 400 AC car all plugs terminal ends and everything else were so exact that my 6 yr old son could have connected everything just because it was pretty much everything ended right where it needed to be

Hot_Rodder

Like I had said above, the engine harness for my old '69 R/T I had, to say the least, I had no complaints what so ever. Only thing about this car, is that, despite being a B engine in a '72 car, it's not the original motor, and I don't know what it came out of, and, for right now, I don't know what year motor it is.... So, to say if the harness is right, it maybe, but there may be some differences with this motor versus the original 400 that was in it (other than the bore diameter, amoung other basic differences)... I don't know. I'm still pondering getting a Year One harness, and comparing these together, but if I do, that will have to hold off for a second... :2thumbs: