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Author Topic: Beginning restoration on 68 R/T  (Read 394 times)
dpm68
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« on: April 30, 2008, 05:49:38 PM »

Hi. I am beginning to work on my 68, and I thought I'd start with the engine bay. My question is, what is the best way to get the paint and grime back down to bare metal. I really cannot afford a dip but might consider blasting, but is there any sure-fire method that is not too hard on the pocketbook? It's hard as hell to hand sand, and there is old battery scuz and rust near the tray. What to do? I know paint strippers are messy, but it sounds sort of easy - am I smoking the pipe here? Thanks, Dave. I am having a rough go at uploading the pics to this site, but they do get the point across. The rusty area is near the old battery tray - and that's about the nastiest it gets in the bay. I'm afraid if I clean it up and try to weld it, it will blow through, but we shall see...Thanks again.


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1hot68
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« Reply #1 on: April 30, 2008, 06:26:19 PM »

blast it !!
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1968 Dodge Charger R/T Clone...493 stroker Tremec 5 Speed And Dana60 3.54Sure-Grip

My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber.
justin1987
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« Reply #2 on: April 30, 2008, 06:39:17 PM »

blast it !!


iagree
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UFO
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« Reply #3 on: April 30, 2008, 08:30:58 PM »

If it's really oily or grimy steam cleaning or high pressure washer used with a degreaser product will make blasting a lot more efficient.
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dpm68
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« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2008, 09:15:30 PM »

Not real grimy. I swear I will take some pics maybe tomorrow, but I have a hell of a time making the images large on this forum. Anyone know how? I have a Mac G4 and use Adobe Photoshop. As for the car, someone sprayed over the factory LL-1 with matte black. Most of it came off with a high pressure water blaster, but I guess I need to (sand) blast it, but have no idea how to do it. I have seen hand held balsters and portable ones as well. Are the hand held ones okay? What is the best media to use? Will it hurt the metal if I go hog wild? Can I blast the body too? It's full of mud in the usual places except for the front clip, which is remarkably near-cherry. My god I ask a lot of questions. But the fact is, is that I am not getting any younger and I am tired of seeing that Charger collect dust in my garage. Thanks to all.  - dave
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69*F5*SE
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« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2008, 05:08:35 AM »

DO NOT attempt blasting any outer body sheetmetal with any form of blasting yourself.  You'll warp the hell out of it.  Yes, wash off all the dirt and grime very well from your engine bay before blasting (before anything).  A small handheld blaster would take forever and you'd want to pull your hair out before you were done.  You need a pressure pot blaster or at least a larger siphon feed blaster to do the job providing you have an air compressor that can keep up with the air demand.  Look through the yellow pages (phone book) and search for a media blasting facility in your area. If there's place nearby see what they would charge you for the job.  The engine bay isn't so large of an area that it would cost an arm & leg.  Plan this resto out before you do anything.  If you get anything blasted you're going to need to have it primed right away otherwise rust will form right before your eyes and you'll be up the creek again.  Don't ask me how I know this so well. Just assume I'm knowledgeable.  icon_smile_big
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1hot68
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« Reply #6 on: May 01, 2008, 06:28:09 AM »

DO NOT attempt blasting any outer body sheetmetal with any form of blasting yourself.  You'll warp the hell out of it.  Yes, wash off all the dirt and grime very well from your engine bay before blasting (before anything).  A small handheld blaster would take forever and you'd want to pull your hair out before you were done.  You need a pressure pot blaster or at least a larger siphon feed blaster to do the job providing you have an air compressor that can keep up with the air demand.  Look through the yellow pages (phone book) and search for a media blasting facility in your area. If there's place nearby see what they would charge you for the job.  The engine bay isn't so large of an area that it would cost an arm & leg.  Plan this resto out before you do anything.  If you get anything blasted you're going to need to have it primed right away otherwise rust will form right before your eyes and you'll be up the creek again.  Don't ask me how I know this so well. Just assume I'm knowledgeable.  icon_smile_big

 iagree   Very good advice .
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1968 Dodge Charger R/T Clone...493 stroker Tremec 5 Speed And Dana60 3.54Sure-Grip

My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber.
dpm68
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« Reply #7 on: May 01, 2008, 06:52:20 AM »

Will can do - thanks!
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terrible one
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« Reply #8 on: May 01, 2008, 03:28:01 PM »


On my Cadillac, I did it by hand. It will definitely be a lot easier for you to get it blasted, but it can be done with some air craft stripper, a wire wheel, sandpaper, etc. if you have the time. What I've learned while working on my Charger is that the easier you want to make it on yourself, the more it will cost!
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #9 on: May 01, 2008, 10:22:54 PM »

You could always D.A. Sand most of the engine compartment & then use a small hand blaster on only the rusty spots if you want to save money. LEON.
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dpm68
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« Reply #10 on: May 01, 2008, 10:38:32 PM »

Funny - I was just looking for a DA and might give it a whack.
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Finn
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« Reply #11 on: May 01, 2008, 10:49:30 PM »

A DA sander and wire wheel worked well, I also have a sand blaster I used for non exterior parts which works wonders...when the blaster actually work. Harbor Freight junk...

good luck!
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #12 on: May 02, 2008, 12:32:55 AM »

Here's a engine Compartment I D.A. Sanded. Came out OK for a driver, no showcar. LEON.

P.S. I know the wiper motor is wrong, Owner had it rebuilt that way & insist it's right.


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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #13 on: May 02, 2008, 12:35:01 AM »

After paint.


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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #14 on: May 02, 2008, 12:37:09 AM »

Partially assembled. SO, A non sandblasted engine comp can provide a decent job. LEON.


* enginecompassembled5.jpg (194.62 KB, 478x360 - viewed 153 times.)
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