cooked! - UPDATE

[471_Magnum]

Some have you guys may be aware that I've been having some electrical problems that resulted in replacing the dash harne$$:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4055.msg48447.html#msg48447

Harness needed replacing, but I never found anything conclusive with regards to the meltdown. Anyway, spent the money, installed the harness and all was well for a couple of days.

Then it struck again. Driving home Thursday, the stereo cuts out a couple of times then the engine dies. I get a puff of smoke from under the dash. All the gauges are still working. The alternator gauge barely flickered during the whole ordeal.

I get the car off the road, pop the hood and see the insulation cooked off the fusible link, but the wire didn't burn through. Alternator wire is cooked too. I still have juice to the accessories.

Against my better judgement, I tape up the link and try to start the car. To my surprise, it starts, so I high tail it home.

As soon as I get home I disconnect the battery.

Upon further inspection the dash harness looks okay. No sign of where anything shorted. Bulk head connector isn't melted. No fuses blew. All cooking took place under the hood.

I can't find a short anywhere!! I'm not just going to install a new engine harness without figuring out what caused this mess, but so far, everything checks out okay. My next step is to pull the instrument panel and dive in deeper, but I doubt I'm going to find anything.

[Ghoste]

You aren't running the stock alternator are you?

[471_Magnum]

Nope. Late model 60 amp dual field. Got one field grounded. Going to upgrade the new harness for the later regulator.

Been running this set up for several years with no problem (other than "lifetime" alternators wearing out).

My field wire cooked along with the power feed this last time. What could that mean?

[71_deputy]

ouch!!! looks like a tough one-
question # 1- what acc's do you have???

this will only happen when it is running!! right?

so we need to look for a ing/acc trouble.

most small acc's will only cause it's fuse to blow!!  larger current will only do in the fusable link.
power windows, fan, headlight switch- yes- the switch itself can ground out internally causing as short.

since you have replaced the dash harness-that rules out the wiring there.

two cents

[471_Magnum]

I'm running and aftermarket ignition, and I have it wired right off the alternator.

Only accessory I was running at the time was the stereo and heater. Stereo is wired directly off the battery. Didn't notice any fluctuation in blower motor speed, but that's another place to look. Hmmm.

Running relays to the headlamps.Those weren't in use at the time.

[471_Magnum]

Removed my alternator last night to have it checked. Here's what I found:



Is this the cause or just more collateral damage?

[Ghoste]

Well, I'd guess the missing diode is the cause of your other problems.  What made it pull a fade?

[471_Magnum]

I exchanged the alternator for yet another "lifetime" piece.

I'm debating whether to install it, or put it on the shelf and spend $100 on something better.

[Ghoste]

Might as well put it on.  Have you been buying these all at the same place?

[471_Magnum]

These are all "Palladium" alternators from Advance Auto Parts.

Thinking about getting a Powermaster, but I'm not sure what, if any, extra insurance that gets me.

[Ghoste]

I don't either.  You don't have a good old fashioned auto electric guy in town who can rebuild it for you?

[Nacho-RT74]

replace the diodes is a lot easy... just unbolt the case. Front case will be removed with rotor on it. You will be able to see the stator wires on diodes studs ( with 3 3/8" nuts ). remove them to remove the stator.

Diode missing is on the positive bank of diodes, so you need to remove also the nut on exterior big stud ( 7/16" )where heavy black wire bolts, also condenser inside the alternator.

MAYBE, negative bank of diodes terminals are overlaping the positive ones, so if this is real then you need remove the negative bank... piece of cake,. just remove the 4 bolts on exterior of rear case ( top of pic you can see them ).

Join all the parts is also piece of cake but you need:
-grease on rear bearing.
-Remove brushes...they have to be installed after alt is completelly joined.
-be sure that stator wires won't be in middle of rotor way when you bolt them on to diodes studs.

and check outside the car:
-continuity between brushes ( 5-10 Ohms )
-no continuity between chassis and/or any of brushes.
-no continuity between stud and chassis.
-no weird noises when you spins the alt pulley/rotor.

Piece of cake.

[Nacho-RT74]

BTW!!! WHAT THE HELL IS THAT MELTED RED WIRE ?!!! on double field alt only must be three wires, blue and green to brushes, and black to ammeter.

and almosst forgett this: I see a lot hard that a missed diode will cook any part of electricity net. with a missed diode you won't have enough juice to charge, but not cook a wire. You can have also a higher voltage output, but not a higher amperes output as far I know.

[471_Magnum]

Alternator was a "lifetime" warranty piece, so I just exchanged it. Not going to screw around with rebuilding it.

Red wire was used to ground one field as have a '69 that was not originally equipped with a dual field alternator. As stated above, my new engine harness is set up for a dual field and I will be using the later style regulator.

[Nacho-RT74]

It was easier replace the isolator washer on to brush assembly with a metallic washer

[Ghoste]

Man, I never thought of that!  I'm grounding out one field too but I'm going to do the washer thing.  Thanks Nacho.

[471_Magnum]

It was easier replace the isolator washer on to brush assembly with a metallic washer

That IS a good idea, but now a moot point for me since I have a '70-later style regulator.

I just finished putting it all back together. The baby is asleep, so unless I want to incurr the wrathe of mom and child both, I need to wait a couple hours to fire it up.

Got plenty of cleaning up to do in the garage anyway.

[471_Magnum]

Well I got it up and running. Nothing burnt-up while it was idling in the garage.

Unfortunately, I've got a leak on my fuel line that prevented me from taking a test drive. I've got a bad fitting that I'll need to replace. I'll pick one up tomorrow and hopefully put this little project to bed.

[BrianShaughnessy]

Thinking about getting a Powermaster, but I'm not sure what, if any, extra insurance that gets me.

I did the chrome powermaster thing 3 years ago and it still works great.   That may or may not be saying something but I think you've had several of these remans gone bad now.   Try the dual field regulator and see what happens.

Hope it's resolved soon..  Good luck!!!   

[471_Magnum]

Got it going tonight... just in time for weather to turn cold.