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What size bolt?

Started by jdiesel33, January 28, 2009, 10:51:21 PM

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jdiesel33

Attaches a 727 tranny to a 440 block? Width and length?

thanks
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

John_Kunkel


The top four bolts are 3/8"-16 X 1 1/4" long.


The bottom two bolts are 7/16"-14, the starter side is 2" long and the opposite side is 1 3/4" long.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

jdiesel33

thanks man. i appreciate it.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

jdiesel33

Ok, I need help on this. I am going to pull the engine and put it on an engine stand, standard kind with the 4 adjustable arms that bolt to the block. As I understand it, I need to go and buy 4 bolts before hand to mount the engine to the stand. A previous post on this thread gave me the length and width of the bolts that go from the tranny to the block, but I guess that isnt enough. I need thread pitch and width also right? I am taking the engine and tranny out all together. Should I just wait till I get it out and pull those bolts then just get longer versions of those? Would I just take the length of the bolt tunnels on the engine stand and add that to the length of these bolts or do they need to be even longer?

Thanks
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

John_Kunkel


Measure the length of the arms and add 5/8"-3/4", the thread for all four is 3/8"-16 since normally only the upper bolt holes are used for mounting to the adjustable arms.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

jdiesel33

So that is all I need to know? My friend told me I needed more info about the threads themselves like pitch and width? No?
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

jdiesel33

I assume I can just get these at a Home Depot or Lowes or something? I would assume I would need some pretty good quality ones.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

70redbee

I would get a grade 8 bolt just to be sure in the size you need. Never can be too cautious when it comes to your prized mopars.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: jdiesel33 on February 25, 2009, 05:11:47 PM
So that is all I need to know? My friend told me I needed more info about the threads themselves like pitch and width? No?

3/8"-16 is the diameter and the thread pitch.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

jdiesel33

good enough. i guess i didnt know exactly what that notation meant. i probably didnt communicate it correctly. thanks for all the help.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

jdiesel33

Just want to make sure Grade 8 is sufficient on this. The guy at Home Depot said I should go with a grade 10 or above. Is grade 8 sufficient? O'Reilly's and Napa both top out at 8.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

jdiesel33

Also, found a few articles such as this one saying to use Grade 5 bolts!!!!! What is the right one? I hoped to buy some tonight. Any help would be appreciated.

"I recommend AGAINST grade 8 for reasons already mentioned. Grade 8 is superior in items of tensile strength; that is to say where the force is parallel to the length of the bolt. U joints, headers, axle brackets, wheel studs, etc. Grade 5 has a slightly lower tensile strength but its much more malleable. Grade 8s don't bend, they break. Grade 5s will bend and thats a good thing since most of your weight on an engine stand is shear weight... and the tensile strength of grade 5 is waaaay more than sufficient on an engine stand.

I used to think that more is better, but when it comes almost everything in the automotive world, RIGHT is better. Everything has its application, and hard brittle bolts like grade 8 have broken on me before in engine stands and engine lifting.

If you don't believe me, try lifting an engine with a long grade 8 bolt. It will break. But, if you have a shorter grade 8 bolt that you can torque down against the chain, it has a chance because its under tensile pressure and it gets shear strength from the fact that its wedged against the block and can't move. Now do the same test with a grade 5 and the long bolt will just bend.

That was my long winded way of saying; use grade 5 and you'll be happy. Use grade 8 and they'll probably last forever, but if you drop a box out of the rafters on the engine a grade 8 might snap, but a grade 5 will just deform. Ask me how I know. I had two grade 5s and two grade 8s in my Caddy 500 on the stand. The box of toys I dropped from the rafters sheared the grade 8s leaving the engine to hang on the mangled grade 5s."
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

John_Kunkel


I've been using Grade 5 bolts on all on my engine stands for 40 years, never had a failure.

People tend to go overboard on hardware just because it's available, each of the bolts holding a 440 to an engine stand is only holding about 150 pounds.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

grdprx

Appreciate this thread, comes along just when I need it!

So, I went to Lowes to get the propper sized bolts; they were out of the 1 1/2" 7/16 which I needed for the motor mount.  Didn't carry the 1 3/4..

Home Depot doesn't carry 7/ 16 bolts!  So, I'll have to go by O'rileys or something..

maxwellwedge

Motor mount bolts are fine thread - for a reason.
Just call Frank Badalson (and others) they have all the correct hardware for all this stuff for a measly few bucks more and no worrying.