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How to install a vinyal top...with pictures!

Started by AKcharger, April 15, 2009, 11:11:58 PM

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AKcharger

Here's a "how to" for anyone wanting to replace or install their vinyl top. It's not brain surgery but it does take time and patience.  My project is a 'redo" from my restoration back in '05. I made a few goofs when I installed the top (it was my second one, 1st came out perfect) and although it looked presentable, I was annoyed and always saw the flaws. Well, let's begin. First step is of course remove all the trim BUT before you do make the bottom of the trim with tape so you'll know how far down to glue/cut the new top. I removed the front and rear glass,  you don't have t but there are some advantages. First, you can access the retainer clips if any studs (or screws on '70 and earlier) need to be replaced or any rusty spots need repaired. also you can glue down the vinyl in the channel a lot better.


AKcharger

Step 2 pull up top...and be prepared for what you find. In my case the paint peeled up, I did recall and adhesion problem with old paint last resto...now I have to deal with it. Luckily I could use a razor blade and simply scrape off the paint right down to the bare metal in the bad spots. In the good spots I used 80 grit D/A to sand off the old Glue. LESSON LEARNED...if you use a good solvent like PPG MS 251  you can simply clean off the old glue, I discovered this when I was just about done.



AKcharger

Step 3 repairs/prepwork. Here you'll want to make sure the top is prepared, remember, if you do it right you'll NEVER see this area again so take some time. I cleaned everything up and shot the top with Epoxy primer (PPG DP90LF). You can get any color but I picked black to see what t would look like with a black top. I used POR-15 on any surface rust I found in addition to the primer.  One note here is I was very lax with my body work standards where the lose paint was removed. I was tempted to spend hours getting it "perfect" but figured it wouldn't be seen under the bore grain top...we'll see later if I was right.


AKcharger

Step 4 measure top and draw with pencil line in the center of top. I measured, with the help of my lil' pal Jimmy, between the seems to get the exact center, then measured again...and again. After that I measured the center of the roof and drew another line in pencil, a gray primer would have been good here instead of black


AKcharger

Step 5 Time to glue it down! Using 3M super adhesive spray some glue on the pencil line on the top and a glue line on the roof and let it sit 5 min or so. After the glue is ready CAREFULLY match up the lines and glue the center of the top down. When finished only the center of the top will be stuck



AKcharger

Step 6  Continue gluing...Start with one side, spray glue to top and roof, left sit 5 min and CAREFULLY press down. Work in sections about 1-2 feet wide and make sure your hands are clean and free from glue and be VERY careful of glue over spray, that could ruin the top.  I used barrier paper to cover the top to avoid overspray. Oh, also make sure you note holes for emblems before they're covered up!


AKcharger

Step 6A Use caution as you get close to the ends and DO NOT trim the vinyl till the very end, that's one of the goofs I made the last time,  I trimmed it early and when I got the trim installed I found it was too short around the clips. Here's where having the glass comes out, you can get the vinyl all the way down the sides and use the clips to hold it in place. On the sides and back temp install the trim to get the proper length. Top should extend just above the bottom of the trim. When you cut the vinyl be careful NOT to cut into your paint!! Hold the razor blade against the vinyl and pull the vinyl against the blade.


Here's my one goof, remember  when we drew that line on the center of the top and roof? Well, I failed to do that on the back deck area so when I started to glue it down from the drivers side moving to the pax side I had all this extra material...grrrrrrr. OK, so here's what I did, I split the seem on the passenger side and carefully glued them together. The result was satisfactory, you can't tell unless you mach up the seem from the roof and the seem from the deck...they're off a bit



AKcharger

All done! Some last tips:
- If you get glue on the top you can use solvent to clean it off  if you use small amounts for a small area. If you rub real hard or leave it on too long it can "clean" the dye off the top
- Mask off anything and everything you don't want paint/glue on. That green barrier is a LOT cheaper than paint repairs...oh, use auto masking tape, the regular stuff can  peel your paint off if left on too long
- My rear trim (aluminum) was dead, I used 220, then 400,  then polishing compound on a wheel then finished off with 0000 steel wool, came out great.  Hope this helps, have fun!

tan top

Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

The70RT

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Just 6T9 CHGR

No F-in way I'd attempt that my self....kudos to you!

Still waiting on the shop to do mine....I dont know which stress is worse....nah I'll wait ;)
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


Back N Black


devilgear


mopar_nut_440_6

It looks to me as if you removed the trim clips and reinstalled them after the top was on rather than cutting around them. Is this what you did? I will be installing my top myself once my car is painted.

Thank you,
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

AKcharger

Correct Mopar nut. Once the glass is out it only makes sense  to pop the clips off as you can glue the top down more completely and the clips serve to hold the vynal in place as the glue drys. Note; '71-74 have a stud that the clip slides on to, '68-'70's are held in with a phillips head screw. I've done both and like the 2nd Gen's...less chance for corrosion.

Thanks for the kind words guys!

Just 6T9 CHGR

Quote from: mopar_nut_440_6 on April 16, 2009, 11:14:29 PM
It looks to me as if you removed the trim clips and reinstalled them after the top was on rather than cutting around them. Is this what you did? I will be installing my top myself once my car is painted.

Thank you,

Dont cut around the clips!  DAMHIK!

Chris' '69 Charger R/T


mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: AKcharger on April 17, 2009, 12:30:24 AM
Correct Mopar nut. Once the glass is out it only makes sense  to pop the clips off as you can glue the top down more completely and the clips serve to hold the vynal in place as the glue drys. Note; '71-74 have a stud that the clip slides on to, '68-'70's are held in with a phillips head screw. I've done both and like the 2nd Gen's...less chance for corrosion.

Thanks for the kind words guys!
Great job, by the way! Thank you for the info. Funny that 69Chrger piped up because that is where I saw the cut roof and was wondering about that!

Thanks all,
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

Sublime/Sixpack

1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

mopar73


AKcharger

ooops forgot glass!

AKcharger


1970Moparmann

Great thread!  Don't remember seeing this before.  Great detailed instructions!
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

CDN72SE

Your reveal clips look original, are you using the same ones or did you buy some reproduction ones? Great job by the way.
1972 Charger SE

AKcharger

I think they were repro, they're readily available

CDN72SE

Yup seen them in quite a few places, will pick some up soon.

Here was my install, wan't brave enough to tackle it myself. Will try the headliner myself though.









Here is the vinyl back in 1999.



1972 Charger SE