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POR-15 is junk

Started by 70-500-SE-EXPORT, May 10, 2009, 08:34:29 PM

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70-500-SE-EXPORT

I bought two gallons of this stuff three years ago. I have used in on about 20 different rusty areas including inside the frame rails of my charger before I put trunk and floor pans in.. I also used it on the entire underside of my 64 polara and on my rockers before I wielded the quarters on my charger. I have used it on rusty floors and over a dozen different things. Within a year the rust was coming through the por 15 on everything I ever used it on. The most unbelievable thing is my charger has never left my temperature controlled garage or seen any moisture in my garage. The rust just eats right through the paint and it can be pealed off on some surfaces in sheets. I used it on brand new primed floors in my charger and my cat pissed on the floor. The piss ate the por-15 and it pealed off in sheets and I found rust underneath. Everything I used it on was properly wire brushed and cleaned before painting and 2-3 coats applied. I have been using rust-oleum paint for 20 years and thought this was better. Im disgusted this company charges $100+ a gallon for liquid s*it. My car is rusting worse from the inside of my frame out and I can do nothing about it because them, not to mention the other things I used it on like my power wagon. Getting the stuff off is impossible unless I sandblast it.  Now I use ospho rust converter and rust-oleum.
68 Charger original SS1 paint with matching # 383hp

daytonalo

I have always said that stuff is Armature hour

Silver R/T

Quote from: 70-500-SE-EXPORT on May 10, 2009, 08:34:29 PM
I used it on brand new primed floors in my charger and my cat pissed on the floor.

POR-15 should not be applied over other paints.
Here's more directions, I hope you follow them before you bash a product.  :yesnod:
http://www.terebinthpaints.com/page/17610196
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

resq302

I have to agree, the stuff does suck!  The company is right down the road from where my job is and I have gone there on numerous occasions when I have had problems.  Specifically their exhaust manifold treatments.  They said that even though I media blasted the manifolds, that got moisture into them and caused them to peel the paint off.  I then had to buy their marine clean and metal ready prep.  More money out of my pocket.  The stuff did the exact same thing.  Brought them back again, this time prior to blasting them again.  They claimed it was cause I had oil or grease on my hands.  Nice try since I wore latex gloves as to not get the POR 15 on myself.  Last time I will ever use that stuff or stuff by that company.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Mike DC

 
The substance itself doesn't seem half bad, basically a liquid pour-able urethane.  But getting it to stick to anything is a b*tch (no matter how well you follow their directions) and it goes from black to purple if it sees any sunlight. 


The modern epoxy primers are a better option IMHO. 




69*F5*SE

I've had it stick to my garage floor for several years after some spilled, but it won't save a car from rust.  I think it would be a better garage floor coating than something to waste on our cars. POR 15 pisses me off.  There's much better products out there now to help in restoration.  Don't believe the hype that POR 15 will solve your rust problems.  It won't.  I followed every instruction to the T with the other components and it still sucked.  I wish I could get the message out to others before they waste their money on it.  Maybe this will help. Those who defend it haven't experienced the reality of it yet.  But, they will eventually find out the hard way. 

Silver R/T

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on May 11, 2009, 03:49:49 AM
 
The substance itself doesn't seem half bad, basically a liquid pour-able urethane.  But getting it to stick to anything is a b*tch (no matter how well you follow their directions) and it goes from black to purple if it sees any sunlight. 


The modern epoxy primers are a better option IMHO. 





If you read directions it does say it must be topcoated. Also epoxy is not ment to go over rust.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

maxwellwedge

Quote from: daytonalo on May 10, 2009, 08:58:39 PM
I have always said that stuff is Armature hour

I agree....It goes well with 3" thick bondo and worm hole metal work.

devilgear

Well good thing  saw this...I was about to buy some soon...By the way I am an amature...haha

mopar_nut_440_6

I am a bit disappointed since I used some on my car. Not much but a bit inside the frame rails and trans x member before I put the new floor pan in. I had read soem write ups on it and it seemed OK, oh well. What about the Eastwood product? I have read some excellent write ups on that stuff.

1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

daytonalo

DO IT ONCE , DO IT RIGHT OR GET ANOTHER HOBBY !!! SANDBLAST OR ANY TYPE OF MEDIA , REPLACE METAL ,WITH WELDER , NOT GLUE OR TAPE OR EPOXY , EPOXY PRIME  OR ETCH PRIME !! ANY QUESTIONS ??? IF SO IT TRULY IS AMATEUR    HOUR

mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: daytonalo on May 11, 2009, 09:45:36 PM
DO IT ONCE , DO IT RIGHT OR GET ANOTHER HOBBY !!! SANDBLAST OR ANY TYPE OF MEDIA , REPLACE METAL ,WITH WELDER , NOT GLUE OR TAPE OR EPOXY , EPOXY PRIME  OR ETCH PRIME !! ANY QUESTIONS ??? IF SO IT TRULY IS AMATEUR    HOUR

I was just curious how the Eastwood product compared!

FYI, I am an amateur and have used advice on this forum to do the best job I can. I had used the POR 15 after sandblasting and metal etch as it was suggested to me by a few sources prior to suggestions made on this site. I will not do that again but like anything else in life, you learn as you go along. I also live by the same philosophy you do and like to do things the right way first time! Of course if you get the wrong info then....

1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

daytonalo

Sorry for outburst , I think I need to work on my approach !!

Brock Samson

Oh yeah,.. 'n what approch is that?..  :popcrn:



daytonalo


mopar_nut_440_6

Quote from: daytonalo on May 11, 2009, 10:03:25 PM
Sorry for outburst , I think I need to work on my approach !!

No worries! I thought maybe you were a Vancouver Canucks fan watching the game tonight!!  :brickwall:
1968 Charger R/T 440 
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 680 HP Cummins with attitude

Brock Samson


71charger_fan

I've had excellent results with POR-15 over the years. I've got a patch in my trunk that's fiberglass cloth and POR that went in during the late '80s and it's still strong and solid. I had it peel off a master cylinder in sheets though. Great luck with it on floors though.

TexasStroker

I never saw anything bad about POR15 till after I had used it  :o

Obviously I used it bc the sources I followed led me to believe it was a good product when used correctly...Those same ple contine to use it with good results.

Mine is currently limited to rear frame rails and has held up great...I did do all the prep per their directions though.  I sure as heck hope it holds up well for the sake it is on there.  I'll likely finish using it on my trunk floor as I have done (if it does blow up in my face I'd have had to re-do it anyway).

This could turn out to be like when I defended the 94-01 Ram dash issues and then had mine crack, hopefully not.
Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
www.amarilloareamopars.com
Founder, Lone Star Mopars
www.lonestarmopars.com
Will set-up a regional Charger meet
Contact me for info!

daytonalo

ASK SANTA EARLY FOR A MIG WELDER !!!!

bull

I bought a quart of the stuff about a year ago to coat the inner roof and firewall of my car but I could never bring myself to use it because the idea has always bothered me for some reason. It just seems like you're putting a candy coating on the metal instead of working with it. Over the past few months I decided I'd rather try a rust inhibiting primer. Can't point to any facts or figures to support my "feelings" but sometimes you've got to go with your gut.


Sooo.... anyone want to buy an unopened quart of POR-15? :D

daytonalo

BOTTOM LINE , "MARKETING " THAT IS IT , IF BILLY MAZE SAID MIGHT PUTTY WAS THE BEST FOR  RUST  9 OUT TEN ON HERE WOULD BUY IT

devilgear

I see what you all are saying about working wit the metal to get it where it needs to be, but will POR15 or something else help stop the spread of rust before you can finally get to dealing with the metal? Or is it good just to leave it alone?

Ghoste

The theory is that the POR stuff will completely seal the rust and prevent further oxidizing by not allowing access to the oxygen.  The reality is a little different, there is a reason it's sometimes referred to as "cancer".

BTW, who the hell is Billy Maze??

694spdRT

Quote from: Ghoste on May 13, 2009, 08:27:45 AM

BTW, who the hell is Billy Maze??

He's probably most known as the OXY Clean pitchman on TV, but he sells other stuff. 

Not to be confused with Vince the Sham Wow guy.  ;)
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi