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Author Topic: mopar blue voltage regulator wiring,  (Read 5321 times)
c00nhunterjoe
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« on: June 19, 2009, 10:20:42 AM »

got a constant output regulater, the blue one, and cant recall how to wire it in, trying to get rid of my horrific fluctuations 12.8-16.0 volts, until i can get a 1 wire alternator
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histoy
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« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2009, 11:08:52 AM »

You use the same connections that go to the stock regulator.   The plastic male/female hook together, while the metal terminal hooks to the stud.

One concern is that if you drive your car a lot, the blue constant voltage regulator could ruin your battery from over charging.   I ruined a battery and so did my friend with a '69 Super Bee.   We both switched to solid state regulators that look like originals. 
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lisiecki1
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« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2009, 11:27:47 AM »

You use the same connections that go to the stock regulator.   The plastic male/female hook together, while the metal terminal hooks to the stud.

One concern is that if you drive your car a lot, the blue constant voltage regulator could ruin your battery from over charging.   I ruined a battery and so did my friend with a '69 Super Bee.   We both switched to solid state regulators that look like originals. 

link to said regulator please?
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Remember the average response time to a 911 call is over 4 minutes.

The average response time of a 357 magnum is 1400 FPS.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52527.0.html
Ghoste
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« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2009, 07:53:43 PM »

Yeah, that blue one is a race only piece.
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #4 on: June 19, 2009, 09:38:02 PM »

http://summitracing.com/parts/DCC-3690732/

thats the regulator in question. i wired it back in today, i had it on for years but took it off cause people said its not good to run on the street, but i had a factory style regulator and have burnt up wire harnesses, and constantly have flickering lights and if you put a meter on it the voltage is crazy. anywhere from 12-16 volts. the headlights look like strobes and i constantly blew bulbs.  enough was enough, i had run that blue reg for years with no concern so i put it back on today. i hold a consant 13.94 volts and am happy with that. i dont see how it can hurt my car seeing as how the factory styled ones did and the blue one has not caused me any headaches.
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lisiecki1
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« Reply #5 on: June 19, 2009, 09:52:04 PM »

i have a blue one for my 73, but i'd like some more information on these solid state regulators that ya'll are talking about....
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Remember the average response time to a 911 call is over 4 minutes.

The average response time of a 357 magnum is 1400 FPS.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52527.0.html
c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #6 on: June 19, 2009, 10:14:25 PM »

i'm doing away with all of it and going to an internaly regulated alternator
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TylerCharger69
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If it's not yours......Don't f**k with it!!--Ace T


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« Reply #7 on: June 20, 2009, 09:32:53 AM »

That blue single post regulator......I installed it when I upgraded to an electronic system some years back.   The mail order catalog I ordered it from said that the conversion required the blue regulator.  Long story short....It caused not only my headlights, but all of my other running light bulbs to blow.  Then I find out it is a race only application.  I made the harsh decision to install a...(gulp)...GM alternator.  (I can feel y'all trying to slap me through the internet). It allowed me to do away with external regulators and, honestly... I haven't had any problems with it.  But as far as the blue single post regulator goes....don't use it for a street driver.
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b5blue
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« Reply #8 on: June 20, 2009, 09:50:43 AM »

Hey guys check your GROUNDS!! Nacho's threads on this stuff will help all of you get this stuff right  2thumbs I'm surprised he hasn't chimed in here yet. Best thing to do is clean every connection you can possibly get to then clean it again! No need for a 1 wire change out the repro reg works great if all your connections are good and ALL grounds are in place. I bought a bottle of "DeoxIT D100L" from Techni Tool and it ain't cheap but anything I've cleaned and put it on stays good! (Google it and see the info) Do a search for these problems there is tons of great info here.  2thumbs
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histoy
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« Reply #9 on: June 20, 2009, 09:57:16 AM »

Electronic Regulators:  I'm running a FBO  VR-1 regulator.   They have only a few left in stock and have raised their price to $75.  Phone (541) 942-5920

I've also purchased them from NAPA in the past, so they or others like Auto Zone might carry them.  Be sure to specify the solid state regulator.  They will be about twice the price of a points type unit.
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b5blue
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« Reply #10 on: June 20, 2009, 10:05:21 AM »

I think Mancini has them too.
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #11 on: June 20, 2009, 10:13:39 AM »

can somebody that has had the blue regulator blow every light in the car and melt wiring harnesses please tell me what the regulator did? i have good voltage and good amp flow out of mine and it is consistnat at all rpm ranges. unless you had a regualtor failure i cant see the issue with it.
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b5blue
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« Reply #12 on: June 20, 2009, 02:36:56 PM »

 popcrn
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #13 on: June 20, 2009, 07:22:57 PM »

hahaha, i love that smiley
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Nacho-RT74
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Tired of everything


« Reply #14 on: June 22, 2009, 07:48:09 AM »

Hey guys check your GROUNDS!! Nacho's threads on this stuff will help all of you get this stuff right  2thumbs I'm surprised he hasn't chimed in here yet.

sorry, I'm working hard since June 16 up 29, and just today having a day break, on Walt Disney World on Ice show.

c00nhunterjoe, make a search about regulators conversions on board and you'll find lot of info, with diagrams included. I don't have them in hands right now

the dimming lights on Mopars is pretty much normal, thats a NON CHARGE AT IDDLE deal also pretty normal, that can be get better simply getting a later alt from any Mopar ( 77 etc... ) they are CHEAP, and no need for mods. Also keeping same look and wiring ( except if you have a single field alt what will need some small mod on alt OR wires ). Also does exist upgrade kits to your existant alt in no more than $50 and can get it upgrade up to 105 amps alt.

some more info about that here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

The blue regulator IS NOT RECOMENDED FOR STREET CARS ( not saying you can't use them just not recomended ). They are for race cars. They get more output to get better performance on ignition, but they get out of range volts for some bulbs rated mostly at 14 volts and will be easy to burn them out with 16 volts. You'll notice on a dimming lighst car they burn easy too cause the constant dim in and out. If you save the dimming problem you'll notice will be hard to get a burnt bulb too.
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Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html
c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #15 on: June 22, 2009, 03:28:53 PM »

i have no voltage issues with the blue reg, it holds a constant 13.8-13.9 volts from idle to 6000 rpm.  the stock style reg had no charge at idle with voltage spikes as high as 16 volts.
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0X01B8
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« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2009, 08:23:35 AM »

I ran the blue constant output for years and years and years without knowing it was not intended for street use.  I never had any problems BUT my alternator was severely undersized, like 1 amp or something.   Wink  I have no idea.  Just turning on the headlights would cause it to draw from the battery, even at cruise speeds.
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mopar0166
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« Reply #17 on: June 23, 2009, 09:27:19 AM »

that blue box runs great on my 69, never charged better and runs the hei great
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4406pac
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« Reply #18 on: June 23, 2009, 02:59:24 PM »

I use to run the blue box on all my cars, but it kept going threw alternators, it would look like it was charging on the gage, but it had no amps. I took it to a repair shop and the blue VR blows a diode in them. I went to Autozone and bought a regulator (VR706) it is for 68 and older but replaces the points with electronic. It's about $27 now. Only use the blue one for race.


* VR706.jpg (6.27 KB, 163x126 - viewed 2179 times.)
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #19 on: June 23, 2009, 06:06:19 PM »

if its not allowing any amperage then why dont my lights dim?
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Ghoste
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« Reply #20 on: June 23, 2009, 06:33:56 PM »

Your mileage is varying?
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #21 on: June 23, 2009, 08:02:42 PM »

my mileage?? i'm confused
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Ghoste
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« Reply #22 on: June 23, 2009, 08:36:54 PM »

Just paraphrasing the old ad disclaimer pointing out that not all results are the same.
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mopar0166
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« Reply #23 on: June 24, 2009, 08:25:56 AM »

my blue box works great, maybe its the way i wired it.  no problems at all  knock on wood
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