bricklayer
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« on: July 29, 2010, 06:26:15 PM » |
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I am ready to start engine for the first time since restoration how do i prime the oil pump and run oil through the entire engine thanks tom my car is a 69 charger 383 with a mopar performance electronic ignition orange box again thanks tom
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2010, 06:40:02 PM » |
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Yank out the distributor and gear, buy a priming shaft (Mopar Performance sells them) and stick it in a drill chuck and spin it in reverse (counter-clockwise). You will feel it when the oil starts pumping. I like to do this for about 30 seconds and then spin the motor 90 degrees and repeat, 90 degrees and repeat.
P.S. Counter-Clockwise on big blocks, Clockwise on small blocks.
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bricklayer
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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2010, 07:32:30 PM » |
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do i need to mark the distributor when i take it out? And what about putting it back in thanks tom
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2010, 07:36:23 PM » |
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If the distributor is in the right spot now and you aren't sure about how to put it back then you better note the distributor location, the rotor location and the slot in the drive gear location and forget the step about rotating the engine 90 degrees at a time like I mentioned above.
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68X426
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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2010, 07:40:35 PM » |
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Be sure to use a big horsepower drill, like a Milwaukee, 1/2 inch, corded, you can use up and burn out a little old hand drill fast. Don't ask how I know. 
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The 12 Scariest Words in the English Language: We are Here from The Government and We Want to Help You. 1968 Plymouth Road Runner, Hemi and much more 1968 Dodge Charger, 318 and not much else 1958 Dodge Pick Up, 383 and loud 1966 Dodge Van, Slant 6 and cool Does this make my ass look fat? 
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TylerCharger69
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« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2010, 06:48:29 PM » |
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Yes....mark the distributor and also mark where the rotor is pointing as well
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mauve66
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« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2010, 07:00:04 PM » |
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i assume you have the long rod to do the priming with?? it requires a 1/2 inch reversible drill, you used to be able to buy the larger chucks and replace the small 3/8 chuck but its been a long time so i don't know if you can still do that part
you will have to rotate it some to make sure the oil galley gets uncovered, when i did my first one i was pumping and pumping and nothing was happening, i thought what the hell, so i kept the drill going (3rd battery) and rotated the crank just a little bit and whamo, got oil like a water hose across the garage
this was on a B block, i assume RB blocks have the same deal with the galley being covered at some points in the rotation, i don't know about small blocks
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Robert Las Vegas, NV
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bricklayer
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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2010, 09:47:48 AM » |
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I'm getting the priming shaft from local dodge dealership monday. when i priming the oil in engine it is just turning the oil pump and nor the cam gear where i would lose my timing.Correct thanks tom
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mauve66
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« Reply #8 on: August 01, 2010, 10:11:05 AM » |
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priming doesn't change the timing cause you take the intermediate gear out (the one that the distributor slides into) but to ensure proper oiling is happening you should rotate the crank after pressure is up (you can tell when the drill slows down) and that will change the timing so you need to be able to reset it, if the intake/valley pan is still off you will be able to see if its oiling right away but if the oil gallery is at the covered spot in the cycle......
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Robert Las Vegas, NV
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R2
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« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2010, 11:44:57 AM » |
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As above,,,,
I usually put a mark on the distributor housing and a corresponding mark on the block so i can line the distributor back up when i drop it in,,eg a magic marker or piece of tape....
NOTE the position of the GEAR before you remove it,,,and put back in the same orientation,,,,,,,
NOTE the position of the rotor as well...........
I usually snap a few quick pics of the gear position, rotor, etc,,,on my digital camera,,,,in case i dont put things back together right away.....this way i have somthing to refer to later just in case......
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