A couple of detail questions

[Richard Cranium]

1. The latch tray in the nose cone; is the finish supposed to be high gloss black, satin black, or flat black?

2. Would that same black be used on the rest of the inner nose cone structure?

3. The picture below shows this seal riveted to the lower valance. Am I correct in assuming that the ugly stud part of the rived protrudes through the valance, or was there a different type of rivet used?

[nascarxx29]

Did you refer to Hemi Genos daytona resto pages.Lots of good pictures and info .

[Aero426]

The latch tray, Z brackets and headlight buckets are all painted a satin black. 

[Richard Cranium]

Did you refer to Hemi Genos daytona resto pages.Lots of good pictures and info .

His & Mopar John's. Good stuff.

[nascarxx29]

Both cars good reference.One of the 2 posts mentioned the # number manafactor for the correct paint

[hemigeno]

3. The picture below shows this seal riveted to the lower valance. Am I correct in assuming that the ugly stud part of the rived protrudes through the valance, or was there a different type of rivet used?

Below is a picture of my car's valance after paint.  Yep, that's how they installed the rivets originally (the unrestored picture you posted is of the same/my car, only prior to restoration).  They did it the "ugly" way because the other end of the rivet without the large diameter flared head would have pulled through the rubber seal really easily.

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm sure that I'll have a few more questions as time goes on.

[Mopar John]

Mark,
I concur with hemigeno on the butt end of the rivits. They stick through the lower valance and are painted! I can not attach pictures to a pm so here are some of the nose seals! I have more to get off a picture disk from the assembly soon!
Mopar John
P.S. I didn't want to hi jack this post so go to my story and see pictures of the sidemarker placement in the lower front valance!!

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks for the pictures John.  My car is currently on the Whirly jig and last week I stripped of the factory undercoating in the four wheelwellsplus& behind the rear wheels and the undercarriage will be blasted as soon as the rain stops. In the mean time, I've cleaned up the engine & got it mounted on the K-frame with some suspension pieces attached. Pictures will follow soon.

[Richard Cranium]

One more question:

Does anyone know who offers paint that replicates the look of bare steel?

[Aero426]

Eastwood has a detail gray paint that would work.  If you have bare steel, depending on the part, another option is to leave it bare and treat it with ECS Rust Prevention Magic.  

[resq302]

Eastwood has a detail gray paint that would work.  If you have bare steel, depending on the part, another option is to leave it bare and treat it with ECS Rust Prevention Magic.  

I agree!  That RPM is very good   excellent, amazing stuff!

[Richard Cranium]

I just looked it up & found some pretty good info here....

http://www.ecsautomotive.com/productdesc.php?co=a&id=1

I'll have to order some.   

[resq302]

Prior to sending out a set of disc brake spindles that I sold to a member here, I restored them by soaking them in evaporust and then applied the RPM to them.  I let them sit outside for a week with temps going varying going down to the 30s and up into the 70s various days.  We also had about 4 of the 7 days rain where they were exposed.  The only area where I started to notice rust was where I must not have covered the part that well as it was very minimal oxidation and the stuff held up perfect.  It did not wash off and withstood the pounding of the rain.  I know any work that requires bare metal now will be getting this stuff applied.

[Richard Cranium]

Here's a couple of update pictures  The engine is all dressed up with nowhere to go....

[resq302]

Just a couple of things I noticed wrong.  The spark plug wire holders were already on when the engine was painted.  Same with fuel pump and exhaust manifolds.

[Richard Cranium]

Just a couple of things I noticed wrong.  The spark plug wire holders were already on when the engine was painted.  Same with fuel pump and exhaust manifolds.

As it is, the engine painted too nicely to be considered original, so I  painted the manifolds with Eastood high-temp paint & I prefer the look of that finish versus burnt off orange engine paint. I knew about the fuel pump & I decided against painting that. The plastic plug wire brackets was something I didn't know about. Thanks.

Anything else that I need to address? 

[resq302]

from what I can see, everything looks pretty good   

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

PCV valve should also be engine color and shouldnt have any clamps on the hose....

[resq302]

PCV valve should also be engine color and shouldnt have any clamps on the hose....

Damn, missed that.  Same for the grommit that gots into the valve cover for the pcv valve.

[Richard Cranium]

PCV valve should also be engine color and shouldnt have any clamps on the hose....

Damn, missed that.  Same for the grommit that gots into the valve cover for the pcv valve.

The grommet is painted, and I promise to take the clamp off.   

[resq302]

damn, the ripe old age of 35 is approaching fast and my eyes must be going blind!   

[Richard Cranium]

In regards to a date coded voltage regulator, what should the numbers be for a car produced on 4/27?

Thanks again! 

[hemigeno]

In regards to a date coded voltage regulator, what should the numbers be for a car produced on 4/27?

Thanks again! 

My  would be anything dated 169 (16th week of 1969) or earlier, within reason.

[Richard Cranium]

Thanks for all of the responses. Question about plating: Are all of the kickdown linkage rods and lower bellcrank supposed to be cad plated? Also, what plating should be on the throttle cable hold down, coil bracket, and distributer hold down?