News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Front suspension adjustment

Started by boss429kiwi, August 14, 2011, 06:35:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

boss429kiwi

Hi

Once again, I am new to MOPAR's so I am sorry for the basic questions.

My Superbird seems slightly too low at the front.
I wish to raise it approx 1/2". Approx how many turns on the adjustment bolt will be required?

Any advise  :ahum:

What would the factory height be. Is there a messurement?

Thanks
NEW ZEALAND (aka Paradise)
1973 De Tomaso Pantera GTS widebody
1970 Superbird, 6pack, 4 speed, Tor-Red, Buckets, restored by Julius
1970 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed, calypso Coral, white shaker
1970 Boss 429 KK2457, Concours, Calypso Coral (SOLD)
1957 Chevy truck, big rear window, ocean green, STOCK!.....nice!

hemi68charger

There are torsion bar adjustment bolts on either side, 3/4" socket, perferably 1/2" drive. I typically adjust the front so it's about a 1/4 to 1/2 lower then the rear. I measure from the bottom of the rocker just in front of the rear wheel well opening and then measure from the bottom edge of the front fender. I'm sure there's a preferred or "Professional" way to do it, but I do it from a shadetree back-yard garage approach and from standing back and looking at it. You'll see the rack/slope you want...............

Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

3--Daytona

( from the been there,done that dept,) You should take at least some of the car's weight off of front wheels. Makes screws turn lot easier,  if adj, screw is froze up, free it up, don't get a longer  "cheater bar" like my friend did. He striped threads out of adj, screw, car fell like a ROCK, missed his head by 1 in.

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: 3--Daytona on August 16, 2011, 07:35:35 AM
( from the been there,done that dept,) You should take at least some of the car's weight off of front wheels. Makes screws turn lot easier,  if adj, screw is froze up, free it up, don't get a longer  "cheater bar" like my friend did. He striped threads out of adj, screw, car fell like a ROCK, missed his head by 1 in.


I had that happen too. Very scary deal.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

HPP

Quote from: boss429kiwi on August 14, 2011, 06:35:48 PM
I wish to raise it approx 1/2". Approx how many turns on the adjustment bolt will be required?

What would the factory height be. Is there a messurement?

Thanks

I'd start with one full turn, drop and jounce the car, and see how you like it. If you raise it more than an inch, your alignment will change and require adjustment or your tires will wear. Caster, Camber, and Ride Height are very inter-dependant on a mopar and changing any one of them alos changes the other two. Speaking of which, if an alignemnt is required, ask for as much positive caster as possible up to 5*, zero to negative .5* camber, and combined totalt toe in of .125 inches, not degrees.

The factory ride height is actually measured under the car. Measurement A is from the floor to the bottom of the lower ball joint. Measurement B is from the floor to the bottom of the t-bar socket. Subtract A from B and you should be somewhere between 1.5 and 1.78 with point B being higher.Exact difference I forget as it varys from the different car lines, but is somewhere in that range.  Restore the car to this height and I almost guarantee you won't like it's nose up attitude.

You're welcome...and welcome to Dodge Charger.com!

Chryco Psycho


b5blue

I made a gauge out of wood coffee stirrers, cut one till it just fits from the ground to the lower ball joint's lowest point. Mark another one 1 1/8" (or whatever) from the end and tape it to the cut one so the mark is on one end. Be sure the car is on a very flat level surface and use the it to set and recheck after jouncing between adjustments. Drive the car around some and recheck, repeat until stable.
Quote from: HPP on August 16, 2011, 08:26:17 AM
Quote from: boss429kiwi on August 14, 2011, 06:35:48 PM
I wish to raise it approx 1/2". Approx how many turns on the adjustment bolt will be required?

What would the factory height be. Is there a messurement?

Thanks

I'd start with one full turn, drop and jounce the car, and see how you like it. If you raise it more than an inch, your alignment will change and require adjustment or your tires will wear. Caster, Camber, and Ride Height are very inter-dependant on a mopar and changing any one of them alos changes the other two. Speaking of which, if an alignemnt is required, ask for as much positive caster as possible up to 5*, zero to negative .5* camber, and combined totalt toe in of .125 inches, not degrees.

The factory ride height is actually measured under the car. Measurement A is from the floor to the bottom of the lower ball joint. Measurement B is from the floor to the bottom of the t-bar socket. Subtract A from B and you should be somewhere between 1.5 and 1.78 with point B being higher.Exact difference I forget as it varys from the different car lines, but is somewhere in that range.  Restore the car to this height and I almost guarantee you won't like it's nose up attitude.

You're welcome...and welcome to Dodge Charger.com!

gtx6970

1.5 to 2 turns will drop it maybe 1/2"

once you make your adjustment, move the car back and forth 10 ft or so to let the suspension re-settle. then re-measure