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best spot weld cutter ?

Started by gtx6970, August 17, 2011, 11:45:39 AM

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gtx6970


Well ?

Gotta 1968 Charger coming in and need to remove some sheetmetal

Troy

Blair.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRC-13224/

Smyth Automotive (paint center) carries some very similar that I have used in the past and I'm sure Kentucky Motors probably has them too. I use the 3/8" version but I believe you can also buy them in 1/4". Use lots of cutting oil. I used one bit to remove the front floors in the Charger, disassemble a 69 front clip, and remove the trunk pan, extensions, and tail panel on the Challenger.

If you're pulling floor pans that are even remotely rusty I've found that an air hammer/chisel is much better/faster when you're against something thick (like a frame rail). I've also used a grinding wheel in tight spots. I'm getting good at tearing things down...

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

bull

An air hammer with a nice cutting chisel works great. I recently cut the rear crossmember spot welds out of my car with this:

Domino

Another tool in the arsenal is a die grinder with a round/spherical burr (followed by the air chisel)

If the outer layer is to be saved, I use a 1/4" burr and make a deep crater.
If the outer layer is scrap, go with 1/2" and make a shallow crater.

PA Dodger

I used the one Troy recommended and it works great. You can remove the spot weld without distorting any panels. then you just dress down the remaining weld. It's a little more finesse than an air chisel or grinding wheel.
'69 Charger / '69 Dart convertible/ '74 Cuda

TexasStroker

Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
www.amarilloareamopars.com
Founder, Lone Star Mopars
www.lonestarmopars.com
Will set-up a regional Charger meet
Contact me for info!

Silver R/T

This one works the best

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Spot-Weld-drill-bit-cutter-Snap-blue-point-/120729950230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1c10d816
It stays sharp for LONG time, (I've removed 2 quarter panels with it so far) and It DOES NOT hurt underlying panel so you can just weld right on the spot where old weld used to be. It does not leave holes that you have to weld afterwards.
However if you want to go cheap route there work good for low price
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-95343.html
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

gtx6970

Quote from: Silver R/T on August 19, 2011, 12:50:39 PM
This one works the best

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8mm-Spot-Weld-drill-bit-cutter-Snap-blue-point-/120729950230?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c1c10d816

That is what I had  in mind . Something that leaves the underlying metal as intact as possibile.
I assume these work in a normal 3/8" drill ? same as normal drill bit

TIA btw

Silver R/T

http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

PA Dodger

Thats exactly what the Blair tool does. The center point is spring loaded so it doesn't penetrate anything.It leaves a ring of the top panel material to be ground down flush. You can also replace the cutter when it gets dull. I got mine from Eastwood with 2 different diameter cutters.
'69 Charger / '69 Dart convertible/ '74 Cuda

Silver R/T

Quote from: PA Dodger on August 19, 2011, 09:19:24 PM
Thats exactly what the Blair tool does. The center point is spring loaded so it doesn't penetrate anything.It leaves a ring of the top panel material to be ground down flush. You can also replace the cutter when it gets dull. I got mine from Eastwood with 2 different diameter cutters.

Not exactly true. If you're not careful with it you will go through both panels and why would you have to grind off leftovers from the top panel.
The one I've shown in picture cuts 1st panel off completely. Just use spring loaded center punch to make drilling start easier
http://www.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Troy

I've not had much luck with that kind (I have a couple laying around). If you push too far on either you'll cut the underlying piece. You do have to grind down the "ring" that is left after using the Blair tool but, in my opinion, it's easier to control. Plus, if you cut through the piece you're keeping you now have a perfect hole for plug welding in exactly the same spot where the original weld was - and no grinding involved. I wouldn't do that on a frame rail of course.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

ktneifert09

I've done both quarters, both floors and the rear panel with the Harbor freight bits. I've gone through about 7 or 8 of them but theyre only $3. That's my recommendation.
Plans are useless; planning is indispensible.
Especially with an old car!

69*F5*SE

Blair gets my vote as it has worked very well for me.  Get the skip proof pilot cutter.   :Twocents:

gtx6970

Thanks for all the recomendations boys.
Ted Stephens dropped of a whole bunch of sheetmetal last monday.

The intended car will be picked up mid- to late Sept . so I have some time to find the best one to use

69*F5*SE

Here's the one you want from Blair:

http://shop.blairequipment.com/Premium_Skip_Proof_Spotweld_Cutter_p/11093.htm

Got mine cheaper on ebay but, you may find it at your local bodyshop supply. Get the kit that comes with 3 cutters and an extra pilot bit.

The70RT

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elitecustombody

I've tried them all, Blair is the only cutter I use


AMD-Auto Metal Direct  Distributor, email me for all your shetmetal needs

Stefan