News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Headlights headache

Started by twodko, September 13, 2011, 11:13:45 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

twodko

I posted a "head light" problem several months back because they wouldn't come on. Parking lights worked fine. Members suggested it was the headlight switch itself (fairly common I'm told). I bought a new switch from Mega Parts and installed it yesterday. I discovered the connector slot that feeds the hi-beam switch was beginning to melt a tiny bit, this is a light green wire going to the HB switch. There was no indication this wire was shorting out against other wires within the connector. I cleaned the harness connector with some contact cleaner and small wire brush...cleaned up well too. Hooked the batt up and turned the HL on. Nice bright HL again then they began the shut off and come back on.....off,on.....off,on. The engine was not running and I was not in the car nor was I leaning on it. Got back under the dash to see if the new switch was heating up and it was fine. I giggled the connector to the switch......no change. I pulled the HL, PL, TS light harness plug from the firewall Nd cleaned it up. I pulled the connector, by the batt, that feeds the HL etc and cleaned them up as well. The ground wires that attach to the rad frame from the grille assembly were tight and solidly grounded. Still on and off, on and off. I giggled all these connectors for any effect and there was none. The I checked out the HB switch and it functioned properly but caused no change in the HL behavior. The light green wire feeding the HB switch from the HL harness plug showed no signs of overheating/melting. So I'm at a loss about where to go from here. The only thing I haven't checked is the HL harness feed to the HB switch itself.... The wire bundle that snakes down through the kick panel to the HB connector. If none of these 3 wires have ab raided insulation suggesting a short to the sheet metal channel in which they run where do I go from here? The parking light DO NOT go on and off with the headlights either......just freakin' weird. Turn sigs, dash light etc all function normally and this has always been a Cali car 98% rust free. Opinions please.
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Nacho-RT74

the green wire arriving to floor dimmer switch its the MAIN INPUT to it ( coming from HL switch at dash ), then this floor switch gets two outputs, since is not more than a selector... red and violet, one for lows, and the other one the highs.

If the input prong/wire ( light green ) its damaged no matter what you selects, will fail for both beams.

try to jump the green wire directly at floor switch plug to red, then to violet... if goes good when jumping, floor switch is damaged
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Mikesmopars01

Check your dimmer switch plug for burnt wires. 

twodko

Thanks you Nacho and Mike, I'm on it!

Tomas
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

twodko

I ordered a new floor dimmer switch and hope this will solve my blinking HL's. :brickwall:
FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

Nacho-RT74

did you jump the switch to be sure ?
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

twodko

FLY NAVY/Marine Corps or take the bus!

mpdlawdog

Same problem here. Thanks for the info :popcrn: will try it when I get home. Another problem to tackle.....I keep telling myself "i love my charger"over and over again....it's keeping me somewhat sane for now
"Life is Tough...It's even tougher when you are stupid"  -John Wayne-

b5blue

Keep in mind there is a overload detector inside the switch itself. (Like a circuit breaker that resets it's self when it cools down.) If your lights come on and off it's ether detecting an overdraw of current or has weakened with age to trigger too soon. If the contact "points" get crusty it could be the only thing wrong with the switch working. I have carefully taken a few apart, cleaned, lubed and used them.   :2thumbs:

flyinlow

I think the headlight switch has a fast reseting circuit breaker built in to it for just the headlights. The taillights and parking lights are fused. If you are driving at night and the headlight wiring developes a short, the headlights will flash off/on so you have some lighting to stop the car on a dark road.

I have heard of dimmer switch problems before. A good place to check.   :Twocents:


Craig



charger_mike75

I had this problem on my 68 and checked all the stuff mentioned here and still had blinking headlights. Turns out my headlight wiring behind the headlights was shorting out on the fender cuz the insulation had gotten wore off the wiring from vibration. I replaced all my wiring and havent had a prob since.