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Electronic regulator

Started by Nacho-RT74, October 24, 2011, 09:37:25 AM

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Which one would you use ?

P3690731
0 (0%)
P4529794
11 (100%)

Total Members Voted: 11

Nacho-RT74

P4529794




or P3690731




I know the blue one is stated FOR RACE USE ONLY.. but I have known several guys have used on regular use with good results. I got both
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ODZKing

Unless you're racing it ... I'd go with "correct"   :2thumbs:

3480150 = P4529794

Plumcrazy


It's not a midlife crisis, it's my second adolescence.

tan top

first one !!  P4529794   :yesnod:   

have  read & heard the blue race only ones heat up the coil & reduce its life  :scratchchin:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Nacho-RT74

why? the coil has nothing to do with charging
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Ghoste

I'd use the correct one.  Do you really need the constant output one?  (other than its intended application)

tan top

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on October 25, 2011, 12:25:04 PM
why? the coil has nothing to do with charging

not  100% on this Nacho  just trying to remember something that i've read , many years ago   on the over heating the coil  with the race only regulator !! ,  think  the race regulator  keeps the voltage as   minimum of   13.5  or something similar 



Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

68neverlate

I like the look of original, so I'm with everyone else on this one.     :yesnod:     

Not meaning to steal your thread at all Nacho so please   :slap:   me if I'm out of line, but, what would a racing voltage regulator do for you to get an "edge" over stock?  If you wanted to run a hotter spark wouldn't you just upgrade your ignition and/or coil instead?    :shruggy: 

All I can see a "racing" voltage regulator doing is putting a higher voltage to the field and possibly increasing the overall power output of the alternator.  And if that's what you were trying to achieve, wouldn't you just upgrade your alternator instead?  Just wanting to confirm my understanding of things... 

maxwellwedge

The "correct one" should have white lettering......But I'm splitting hairs

Nacho-RT74

I got both because being overseas wanted to test both on same shipping.

I like more the yellow one... and I have seen NOS yellow ( real NOS ) not white :shruggy:

why my question? because I have known several ppl using the blue one on street with success and without any fail on anything else, so just wanted to know your thoughts
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

ODZKing

I just looked at the one I just purchased from Chrysler (dealer) again and my mistake, it is black with yellow letters and 2 pins as pictured   :yesnod:

maxwellwedge

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on October 25, 2011, 09:27:55 PM
I got both because being overseas wanted to test both on same shipping.

I like more the yellow one... and I have seen NOS yellow ( real NOS ) not white :shruggy:

why my question? because I have known several ppl using the blue one on street with success and without any fail on anything else, so just wanted to know your thoughts

Assembly line were white lettering and "ELECTRONIC" was not a slanted font. They had a Pentastar and didn't say "Mopar" on them. The Yellow can be NOS but have later dates on them. Originals all have a round dime sized raised "dimple" on them. Not sure after 71.....I guess they might of been yellow.

Here is a better pic of the original style. 46th week of 69 date.

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

gtx6970

The 3 pin one is some weird one for 1969 Imperials only,,,, I think.

1970 and 1971 or so were white print.

similar to this one

Then sometime in the early to mid 70's Mopar used this same print style but with yellow print color.
Reason I say this, is there is a 1975 or 76 duster I used to work on that had one. And it was dated correct for the car.

gtx6970

These  Later Mopar perf versions with the MOPAR in block print is an over counter release that ( afaik) is not OE correct for any vehicle

Nacho-RT74

welll actually I didn't care about correctness on this ;)

I was wondering WHY there are two diff versions one is MP and the other one it looks is not not as far I remember. I remember have seen two diff PNs for same black box... not the printed PN, I mean the service ( labeled on package ) PN
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

tan top

Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

maxwellwedge

Yes - They both have different part numbers - good post TT

Bill is correct as to the 3 pin being an oddball....Imperials - maybe......truck - maybe. Not right for our stuff though.

nascarxx29

If I can find the issue or 1970 cars magazine Im pretty it was in there.They did a 70 V code charger roadtest.The vintage engine compartment picture though reversed image .Showed a yellow lettered voltage regulator
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

maxwellwedge

No way - No Sir!

If it appears yellow then it is the filter/ age/ lighting of that shot.

UFO

This one?

Nacho-RT74

and ITALIC characters too... sure everyone shows its differences
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

nascarxx29

Thats it thats the picture flipped image and yellow voltage reguulator :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

gtx6970

Quote from: maxwellwedge on October 27, 2011, 08:09:40 PM
No way - No Sir!

If it appears yellow then it is the filter/ age/ lighting of that shot.

Magazine car is most likely a pre-production or pilot car and probably should not to be used for restoration purposes

maxwellwedge

Quote from: gtx6970 on October 29, 2011, 09:38:23 AM
Quote from: maxwellwedge on October 27, 2011, 08:09:40 PM
No way - No Sir!

If it appears yellow then it is the filter/ age/ lighting of that shot.

Magazine car is most likely a pre-production or pilot car and probably should not to be used for restoration purposes

Yes to that.
Maybe the regulator was replaced with a parts department piece before that magazine got the car. The non assembly line over-the-counter parts were perhaps in the dealer stream already. I have seen original magazine tests with parts department batteries.....let's face it - stuff failed.

I'll be happy to invite you all to look at date coded originals still on the cars.