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Torsion Bars-73, 74 Charger

Started by greymag, November 08, 2011, 09:03:23 AM

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randy73

Trying to make sure I do the right thing (for a change), if I go with 1" firmfeels, my stock shocks will be fine and if I go with 1.06", I need stiffer shocks, correct?

Thanks again.

Nacho-RT74

that sounds kinda logical... for a low ride setup
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

HPP

It depends on what you mean by stock shocks. If you are talking plain oil filled, oem style, $9.95 at the local box store, no, the are barely capable of controlling stock rates.  Stock appearing, nitrogen charged gas shocks are good up to about 175# wheel rates and that is pushing the envelope. Beyond that you really would do better to get improved shocks. IMO, better shocks will actually go a long way to improving even the stock spring rates and I'd spend my money on shocks before t-bars. The shocks control such a wide range of variables that their quality has a profound influence on how the rest of the suspension works together.  Think of them like what a camshaft is to an engine. Cams and shocks will determine the width of operating range and efficiency of operation within that range.

Remember - the spring determine how much weight it takes to bottom out the suspension. The shock determine how quickly that bottoming occurs.

randy73

Now, how do adjust the car to the proper ride height?


ODZKing

Not difficult, I did mine in my driveway.  Jack up the car and be sure the wheels hang.  In other words, by the frame, not the front suspension.
With the wheels off the ground there is a bolt on the arm as pictured. No doubt there is a "suggested" height for the front end but basically you can have any height you want. That is the beauty of Torsion Bars.

Been a while but I believe clockwise is raise - counter-clockwise is lower. Either way, you'll figure it out quickly.
Also keep in mind, if you lower the left front only, the right rear will look higher, so be sure to do them evenly.

ODZKing

Here are the specs from the service manual, what ever they mean  :shruggy:

randy73

Thanks and can someone translate the toe in part to english?

ODZKing

Service Manual

flyinlow

Quote from: HPP on August 08, 2014, 12:11:41 PM
It depends on what you mean by stock shocks. If you are talking plain oil filled, oem style, $9.95 at the local box store, no, the are barely capable of controlling stock rates.  Stock appearing, nitrogen charged gas shocks are good up to about 175# wheel rates and that is pushing the envelope. Beyond that you really would do better to get improved shocks. IMO, better shocks will actually go a long way to improving even the stock spring rates and I'd spend my money on shocks before t-bars. The shocks control such a wide range of variables that their quality has a profound influence on how the rest of the suspension works together.  Think of them like what a camshaft is to an engine. Cams and shocks will determine the width of operating range and efficiency of operation within that range.

Remember - the spring determine how much weight it takes to bottom out the suspension. The shock determine how quickly that bottoming occurs.


Yea I would agree. Since mono shocks are not available for 73-74 cars I modified the LCA on mine to use a KYB Gas Adjust for a .Monty Carlo.  This shock was almost a little harsh for the stock T bar but seams not quite enough for the FF 1.06.  May have to try and fit a QA or something this winter.