'69 Charger Build - It moves!

[JB400]

 

[Ghoste]

Lots of change in that most recent group of photos.  So the next update should be painting it huh?  Cool!

[Baldwinvette77]

Awwwwwww-Yeaaahhhh 

[fy469rtse]

  very nice , it's come a long way, great work

[6pkrtse]

Looking good. love seeing the progress everyone makes on their projects. Gives me hope for my projects someday.

[chaos52]

Quick update...

Just sprayed the 3rd coat of polyester primer on the doors. Decided to paint the doors and body at the same time to make sure the lines are right.

The body is really close. The passenger's side is blocked at 400 grit. The driver's side body line had some problems, so that needs to be sprayed once more and blocked again.

[tan top]

 

[chaos52]

sprayed the first coat of urethane on the doors today. They're looking pretty straight. Had lots of problems with fisheyes though. Oh well, they'll sand out.

Got the body line fixed on the driver's side quarter and it's blocked at 400 grit.

Getting close!

[Canadian1968]

sprayed the first coat of urethane on the doors today. They're looking pretty straight. Had lots of problems with fisheyes though. Oh well, they'll sand out.

Got the body line fixed on the driver's side quarter and it's blocked at 400 grit.

Getting close!

Fish eye in your primer??  You don't see that to often. Is it some what uniform over the whole piece you did? Or is it only in a few spots.  If it is , uniiform you either have a contamination in your primer / gun, air line or the room you sprayed it in.   If its only in a few spots its probably some  sort of surface contamination.   IF you were able to burry most of them wiht a couple coats of extra primer they should be fine , but if there are pretty distinct  they will probably dont' sand out complete, you may need to re prime.

[chaos52]

Fish eye in your primer??  You don't see that to often. Is it some what uniform over the whole piece you did? Or is it only in a few spots.  If it is , uniiform you either have a contamination in your primer / gun, air line or the room you sprayed it in.   If its only in a few spots its probably some  sort of surface contamination.   IF you were able to burry most of them wiht a couple coats of extra primer they should be fine , but if there are pretty distinct  they will probably dont' sand out complete, you may need to re prime.

That polyester primer is difficult to dry properly when it's cold and dry. When it's not dried completely it's impossible to sand. So, I had to blow hot air on the doors with a kerosene salamander heater. I'm sure that's where the problems are coming from.

It's concentrated in a few spots. Not uniform.

[Dino]

Fish eye in your primer??  You don't see that to often. Is it some what uniform over the whole piece you did? Or is it only in a few spots.  If it is , uniiform you either have a contamination in your primer / gun, air line or the room you sprayed it in.   If its only in a few spots its probably some  sort of surface contamination.   IF you were able to burry most of them wiht a couple coats of extra primer they should be fine , but if there are pretty distinct  they will probably dont' sand out complete, you may need to re prime.

That polyester primer is difficult to dry properly when it's cold and dry. When it's not dried completely it's impossible to sand. So, I had to blow hot air on the doors with a kerosene salamander heater. I'm sure that's where the problems are coming from.

It's concentrated in a few spots. Not uniform.

Yep fuel contamination will do that.  If it was me I would start over and not simply remove the bad spots.  The kerosene is all over, it just doesn't show everywhere.  It's just a pair of doors right?

[chaos52]

Yep fuel contamination will do that.  If it was me I would start over and not simply remove the bad spots.  The kerosene is all over, it just doesn't show everywhere.  It's just a pair of doors right?

I've has issues with fisheyes in the past and they always go away after sanding and priming again.

I'm not too thrilled at the idea of stripping them down again since I've already spent weeks on bondo and primer work. Both doors have sheetmetal work and dents in them.

[Dino]

Yep fuel contamination will do that.  If it was me I would start over and not simply remove the bad spots.  The kerosene is all over, it just doesn't show everywhere.  It's just a pair of doors right?

I've has issues with fisheyes in the past and they always go away after sanding and priming again.

I'm not too thrilled at the idea of stripping them down again since I've already spent weeks on bondo and primer work. Both doors have sheetmetal work and dents in them.

Fair enough, sanding will have to do then.

Just block sand it as best as possible then to take a bit off.  Once degreased and ready for fresh primer, spray a dry coat first and see what it does.

[PtitRaisin]

 

Very good work man!

[chaos52]

Very good work man!

Merci!

[chaos52]

Well, looks like the doors are on track to recovery.

I wet sanded them with 220 and sprayed a couple bare spots with etch primer as always. Except this time the etch primer wrinkled and I could scrape it and a layer of polyester off with my thumbnail! It happened in 3 or 4 spots.

Finally figured out that I sprayed the polyester too heavy in problem areas without doing a light coat first, so it didn't adhere and cure properly. So, I had to 80 grit those places and re-mud them. After getting it back to 220 grit I sprayed everything with etch primer to be sure the problems didn't come back.

Just sprayed both doors with urethane and there are no fisheyes and no wrinkles!

[Charger-Bodie]

Well, looks like the doors are on track to recovery.

I wet sanded them with 220 and sprayed a couple bare spots with etch primer as always. Except this time the etch primer wrinkled and I could scrape it and a layer of polyester off with my thumbnail! It happened in 3 or 4 spots.

Finally figured out that I sprayed the polyester too heavy in problem areas without doing a light coat first, so it didn't adhere and cure properly. So, I had to 80 grit those places and re-mud them. After getting it back to 220 grit I sprayed everything with etch primer to be sure the problems didn't come back.

Just sprayed both doors with urethane and there are no fisheyes and no wrinkles!

Ive always been told not to used etch under poly. The only way ive heard it to be ok is if the etch is really dry. Like weeks....

[chaos52]

Ive always been told not to used etch under poly. The only way ive heard it to be ok is if the etch is really dry. Like weeks....

Yeah, I read that online somewhere. The instructions on the can (Evercoat Feather Fill G2) say to use an etch primer on any bare metal before spraying. I've done that on the rest of the car and it has worked great. Even if the etch primer has only just dried.

[Canadian1968]

Ive always been told not to used etch under poly. The only way ive heard it to be ok is if the etch is really dry. Like weeks....

Yeah, I read that online somewhere. The instructions on the can (Evercoat Feather Fill G2) say to use an etch primer on any bare metal before spraying. I've done that on the rest of the car and it has worked great. Even if the etch primer has only just dried.

Your using Feather Fill G2?  You know that this is a POLYESTER primer , and NOT a URATHANE /POLYURATHANE primer correct?

Maybe I missed some where in your post,  but your spraying  Etch - G2 - Then a urathane primer??? 

[chaos52]

Your using Feather Fill G2?  You know that this is a POLYESTER primer , and NOT a URATHANE /POLYURATHANE primer correct?

Maybe I missed some where in your post,  but your spraying  Etch - G2 - Then a urathane primer??? 

Yes, the layers would be Nason Etch > Feather Fill G2 > Sherwin Williams P30B > Paint

Is there a problem?

[Canadian1968]

No that's right. At first I thought that you were we referring to the G2 as a Urathane primer.  Are you coating the entire panel with the g2 or just spots?  That Williams primer is great stuff has great build properties an has a flex built in.

[chaos52]

No that's right. At first I thought that you were we referring to the G2 as a Urathane primer.  Are you coating the entire panel with the g2 or just spots?  That Williams primer is great stuff has great build properties an has a flex built in.

I usually spray 2 or 3 coats of the G2 and block at 80, 180 and 220 wet before moving on to the urethane. Makes it easier to get it flat. It works better in the summer when I can put it out in the sun and bake it. It stays gummy for a long time in the winter.

yeah, I like the p30b. High build and sands easy. You pay for it though.

[chaos52]

A couple spots to touch up on the doors and it's ready for paint!

I'm looking into having a local body guy spray it. He sprays Standox and has the equipment to mix and measure precisely. It would save me headache not worrying about spraying in a new environment and he might be able to save on materials.

[chaos52]

Feeling a bit down lately...

I've dumped about $13000 into this project and hundreds of hours. It's going to take a few thousand more dollars to get it on the road. I'm going to be moving away this coming summer/fall and most likely won't be able to take the car with me.

I'm sick of working on the thing, especially since I'll barely be able to enjoy it before moving.

I've thought about turning it into a daily driver, but I've built it as a show car. It's too nice for that now.

I've also thought about selling it, but I've put so much time and money into it...I can't bare to think of stopping now.

And I've thought about dropping the project and just letting it sit at my parent's house until I have the time and resources to finish it. That's just depressing.

Any thoughts, encouragement, suggestions are much appreciated.

[charge69]

Sounds like you are definitely burnt out on working on the Charger right now.  We all went thru this if we tore a car completely down and slowly built it back up again. 

Just find some place you can store it for a while (parents house would work if they have the room) and re-group for a while. Work on it a little at a time then back off again. When the Charger nears completion, your excitement about the Charger will return and the day it runs, will be monumental for the project.

Everyone gets down on a project that takes thousands of dollars and many hours of your time. Just back off occasionally and re-group. Don't work on it, don't look at it don't go near it for a month or two. Longer if it helps.

Just concentrate on one area at a time, not thinking about the whole car. Pretty soon, there will be no more areas as you have it completed !!

Again, do not sell your car. Find a way to store it and regain the enthusiasm you had for it when you first got it!