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dixie horn wiring to stock horn button

Started by Brightyellow69rtse, June 20, 2012, 08:33:21 PM

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Brightyellow69rtse

id like to wire the dixie horns i got from jc whitney to the stock horn button. the kit came with a 4 pin 40 amp relay. i got all new wiring harnesses in the car and i would rather not cut anything. its already mounted im just trying to sort out the wiring. any help would be great thanks!  :cheers:

Nacho-RT74

You have three options...

first one, not use the relay coming with kit and use your existant one. I'm PRETTY SURE, will be able to handle the horn blower load. I already have made it, true with regular two horns air horns, but usually 2, 4, 7 horns blowers works exactly the same with allmost same load, with just more tees to feed more horns alternativelly, never at the same time on this case.

Next option is simply take the output from stock relay which actually is the source to feed the horns ( positive signal output from relay, green traced red wire ) to buzz the stock horns. Now will become on the trigger to the relay coming with kit, then make a new pigtail harness to feed the kit relay, adding batt source, chassis source and output to the new horn blower.

Next option ( 3rd )... you can reuse the stock wiring just not using the stock relay. This is in case the stock relay doesn't hold the horn blower load

Stock relay uses 3 wires. Trigger, Output and + lead from batt/alt net. The 4th pin on aftermarket relay is just ground, which on stock relay is taken from chassis.

Output to horns is green traced red, Black is trigger, which actually drives negative from steering wheel switch, and + lead of batt/alt is violet. You can simply press tabs on original terminals to remove from roiginal plugs and relocate to new relay plug. Will need to add a ground source taken from Body

pay attention on kit relay instructions. Normally the are suited or ilustrated to be triggered from a positive source. This time will be reversed.

Just my prefference, I allways try to remove everything unnecesary, and I can't see a reason why keep two relays in line. So I would choose the options number 1 or number 3, although the most common is the number 2
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Brightyellow69rtse

i have no desire to use anything i dont really have to. so im totally fine losing the factory relay.

the car has a violet wire which is the 12v

black w/white tracer

and 2 green wires

my relay has 4 pins numbered 30, 85 86 87

the compressor has 2 positives and one negative

heres the exact relay i picked up http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762

one pin broke off the relay that that came with the horn

Chryco Psycho

the factory switch is just a switch to ground
I would connect the power to the battery terminal on the start relay & connect it to #30 , the terminal opposite to that goes to power the horns . The other 2 terminals to the right & left are the the low power circuit , 1 can connect to the 30 terminal with a jumper & the other connects to the black wire going up the column . The horn switch in the column grounds the circuit closing the relay & switching power to the horns

Brightyellow69rtse

got it working great. just one weird problem. i have the neg on the compressor grounded to the battery which really improved the speed of the song its perfect now. only weird thing is when i mount the compressor it screws up most of not all the horns blast at once. if i just zip tie the compressor it works fine. but the moment the body of the compressor gets grounded through the mounting bolt it goes all crazy. any idea why this is happening?

ill prolly just mount it to a piece of delrin then mount the delrin to the car as an insulator but for the life of me i have no idea why its doing this.