News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Can someone give a "Step by Step"?

Started by HDCharger, February 02, 2006, 09:57:39 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

HDCharger

I have followed Cudakens AMX thread and others and they are very, very, helpful.  However, I am still a little lost.  MechanicallyI am pretty good and I am a decent welder but I am looking for a step by step or by the numbers of bodywork from repair to paint.  Example:

1.  Weld in patch
2.  Epoxy Primer
3.  Metel to Metal Filler
4.  File
5.  Sand with 400
6.  Glazing Putty
7.  Sand with 800
etc,
etc.
Paint



MSG, US Army, Retired
1973 Charger SE
1976 Stepside Powerwagon
2007 Ram 1500 Laramie
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
1967 Dodge Truck

Drop Top

Well the best advice I can give you is send a message to Ken. He and I do things a bit different and I don't want to confuse the situation. One thing I will tell you is that you should apply the Metal to Metal onto bare metal before you spray your sealer or anything else. Thats why its called Metal to Metal. I have made a list of step by step instructions before, the way I do it. With the grits of paper that I use. I don't know if it was on here or the old form.

Doc74

I'm with Drop on this one, as usual now I think of it  :icon_smile_big:  it's very hard to make a step by step list for someone if you don't know what he/she can do with the knowledge and tools present.

If I need to cut a panel to repair rust my list would roughly be

straigthen panel if needed, cut out the bad part
trim the patch till it's completely flush and has the exact same curves
weld patch
grind welds and prep the metal till you can't see where the patch is
apply epoxies, sealers, primers
start with dry sanding grit 320, rotary sander with 400/500, finish with wetsanding grit 1200
paint

Now not everyone is set up to work this way but that doesn't mean you can't try to stay as close to that objective as possible. If there's a way to get a dent out and not use or limit the amount of bondo then do so.
I will agree that a car with lots of bondo prepped right can look just as good as one that has none but give it some time and compare again.

You probably know this but just in case, when using a mig, welding floorpans and frame rails is a doozy, welding a quarter panel patch is something else, it'll warp before you can say supercalifragilisticexpialidiocious and a lot faster too !

So you need to go slow, tack it in place and take your time finishing the job, cool the panel down as best as you can and get some sort of heat shield gel in an autobody store. All bits help.

Oh and detailed pics can help too if you have some, it gives us a better idea to what needs to be done.

HDCharger

Here are some pics.  Looks very similar to the 69 doc is working on.  Dave
MSG, US Army, Retired
1973 Charger SE
1976 Stepside Powerwagon
2007 Ram 1500 Laramie
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
1967 Dodge Truck

HDCharger

MSG, US Army, Retired
1973 Charger SE
1976 Stepside Powerwagon
2007 Ram 1500 Laramie
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
1967 Dodge Truck

HDCharger

Sail Panel
MSG, US Army, Retired
1973 Charger SE
1976 Stepside Powerwagon
2007 Ram 1500 Laramie
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
1967 Dodge Truck

HDCharger

MSG, US Army, Retired
1973 Charger SE
1976 Stepside Powerwagon
2007 Ram 1500 Laramie
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport
1967 Dodge Truck