- Welcome to DodgeCharger.com Forum.
News:
It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.
Recent posts
#1
Interior / Re: Classic Auto Air
Last post by Kern Dog - Yesterday at 11:13:43 PMMixed bag of nuggets today.
Randy changed the Schrader valves on the low and high side ports, evacuated the system, put it on a vacuum at 30" and let it cook for 35-40 minutes.
It held so he filled the system with R-134. The air through the vents felt cool but not cold. I figured that since the car sat in the sun, the dash was hot and it takes awhile to cool off the metal parts.
I parked the car with the windows closed and we went to lunch. Afterwards, I hung around the shop awhile. It sat for about 2 1/2 hours.
On the way home, it blew warm air the entire 78-80 miles.
At home I noticed that the compressor clutch wasn't staying engaged. It would click on for about 1/3 of a turn, disengage, then about 10 seconds later try to engage again.
I was advised to bypass the hi-low switch so I ran a jumper wire to it.
The compressor clutch stayed engaged and the air started blowing cool....then got really cold just like it should.
The low side read 26, the high side was 110. The load of the compressor wanted to bog the engine. A few minutes in, the belts would sometimes squeak. Sometimes the compressor knocked like a lawn mower with no oil in it.
I'm wondering if the compressor is failing. The low side numbers seem too low.
I will call the Classic Auto Air tech line tomorrow and see what their guy thinks.
Randy changed the Schrader valves on the low and high side ports, evacuated the system, put it on a vacuum at 30" and let it cook for 35-40 minutes.
It held so he filled the system with R-134. The air through the vents felt cool but not cold. I figured that since the car sat in the sun, the dash was hot and it takes awhile to cool off the metal parts.
I parked the car with the windows closed and we went to lunch. Afterwards, I hung around the shop awhile. It sat for about 2 1/2 hours.
On the way home, it blew warm air the entire 78-80 miles.
At home I noticed that the compressor clutch wasn't staying engaged. It would click on for about 1/3 of a turn, disengage, then about 10 seconds later try to engage again.
I was advised to bypass the hi-low switch so I ran a jumper wire to it.
The compressor clutch stayed engaged and the air started blowing cool....then got really cold just like it should.
The low side read 26, the high side was 110. The load of the compressor wanted to bog the engine. A few minutes in, the belts would sometimes squeak. Sometimes the compressor knocked like a lawn mower with no oil in it.
I'm wondering if the compressor is failing. The low side numbers seem too low.
I will call the Classic Auto Air tech line tomorrow and see what their guy thinks.
#2
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Old Mopars in the wild
Last post by Chris 69 - Yesterday at 10:50:13 PMMid-60's Dodge Pickup and 1962 Dart. Redding, CA. 5-13-24
#3
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Old Mopars in the wild
Last post by Chris 69 - Yesterday at 10:48:52 PM1965 Plymouth Fury. Redding, CA. 5-10-24
#4
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Old Mopars in the wild
Last post by Chris 69 - Yesterday at 10:47:42 PM1954 Dodge M152. Redding, CA. 5-9-24.
#5
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Trickflow 240 heads and harlan...
Last post by moparguy01 - Yesterday at 09:58:47 PMI am putting together a 512 with trickflow 240 heads. The valve tip alignment is off. Since i already have the harland sharp rockers, id hate to have to buy another set to address this. Is there any other way? Ive heard about B3 racing making offset shims, but is that the best option? I added a couple pictures of what i am talking about.
The cam is fairly agressive, .588/.606 solid flat tappet, so im thinking it not contacting in the center of the valve stem wont last very long.
Not sure how many of you fellas still check here, but what the heck!
Thanks!
The cam is fairly agressive, .588/.606 solid flat tappet, so im thinking it not contacting in the center of the valve stem wont last very long.
Not sure how many of you fellas still check here, but what the heck!
Thanks!
#6
Aero Cars / Re: Daytona XX29L9B383263 -V2-...
Last post by fc7_plumcrazy - Yesterday at 06:41:38 PMad says "sale pending"
Carsten
Carsten
#7
Electric, Gauges, & Lights / Re: 1969 Charger--Convert Amme...
Last post by b5blue - Yesterday at 06:10:41 PMI think Dino did that? 
#8
Electric, Gauges, & Lights / 1969 Charger--Convert Ammeter ...
Last post by Chatt69chgr - Yesterday at 04:32:45 PMHas anyone hired Redline Gauge Works to make this conversion? What did Redline do and what did they charge? I'm asking here since I can't get Redline to answer the phone.
There would appear to be two ways to do this. One is to buy a small voltmeter (like a Bosch 8215) and do the appropriate mechanical engineering to fit it into the existing rallye dash hole. They second would be to just use the existing ammeter. Disconnect the wiring to it and install a resistor in series with the ammeter. Glue a new scale onto the existing ammeter faceplate. I'm not sure what size resistor would be required. Maybe use a variable resistor like a 500K or 1 Meg Ohm potentiometer in series tied to a 13.6V source and vary the resistance until the gauge needle is at the midpoint. Remove potentiometer and insert fixed resistor. Then vary the voltage source and note the gauge needle positions for say even voltage increments from 8-14 volts? Would need to make a paper gauge face to glue to the existing gauge. Just a thought.
So has anyone chased this rabbit?
There would appear to be two ways to do this. One is to buy a small voltmeter (like a Bosch 8215) and do the appropriate mechanical engineering to fit it into the existing rallye dash hole. They second would be to just use the existing ammeter. Disconnect the wiring to it and install a resistor in series with the ammeter. Glue a new scale onto the existing ammeter faceplate. I'm not sure what size resistor would be required. Maybe use a variable resistor like a 500K or 1 Meg Ohm potentiometer in series tied to a 13.6V source and vary the resistance until the gauge needle is at the midpoint. Remove potentiometer and insert fixed resistor. Then vary the voltage source and note the gauge needle positions for say even voltage increments from 8-14 volts? Would need to make a paper gauge face to glue to the existing gauge. Just a thought.
So has anyone chased this rabbit?
#9
Aero Cars / Re: HEMI CHARGER 500 WAS AT WO...
Last post by Dave Kanofsky - Yesterday at 07:02:18 AMHi Sbird69...your teaser makes me think know more than you have shared so far... 
Thanks for the trailer, now bring on the feature presentation!
Thanks for the trailer, now bring on the feature presentation!
#10
Aero Cars / HEMI CHARGER 500 WAS AT WOODST...
Last post by Sbird69 - May 13, 2024, 08:04:02 PMThere was an Aero car driven to Woodstock in New York at the start of the infamous 1969 Rock festival.
It was one of the very few built 426 HEMI 4 speed cars with a Dana 60 with 4.10's
Something about having a new car with those two tiny emblems on the middle of the doors that just puts a smile on your face,
You can't say too much more to top that!
It was one of the very few built 426 HEMI 4 speed cars with a Dana 60 with 4.10's
Something about having a new car with those two tiny emblems on the middle of the doors that just puts a smile on your face,
You can't say too much more to top that!