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Recent posts
#1
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Re: Best street cam for 440 HP...
Last post by Challenger340 - Yesterday at 10:52:35 PMQuote from: tcs69rt on October 31, 2025, 08:07:16 AMI guess I don't know how to ask/write a cam question properly? I didn't know there was a requirement of certain info by some of you. All stock = meant the brakes all around. The rear is a 3.23. And as far as the advice offered by b5blue ...I will take it. Thanks for the help!
As is said when it involves Cam profile reccomendations.... 'output' can never exceed the imput information.
Doesn't matter where you phone.... I get dozens of phonecalls weekly about Cam rec's.... just say'in I can throw Darts over my shoulder too ?
but because Camshaft lobe events determine how much A/F enters and how final cylinder pressures are applied prior to spark ignition, things like actual compression ratio determine what's called "dynamic' or running cylinder pressure as modified by Cam events ?? my DART may be a dud
Just say'in.... a 'stock' 1968 440 is a far different animal than a 'stock' 1978 440.
regardless....
Good Power Brakes Cam for a 'stock' cast iron head 440 HP of unknown internals using factory hp exhaust manifolds is the
ELGIN #E-1094-P
.447" Int / .459" Exh
213* @ 050 Int / 225* @ 050 Exh
115* LSA
Install straight up.... or 2* advanced if you can find a degree wheel.
A 'step up' performance-wise if you are confident of close to 9'0:1 Static Compression Ratio would be the
Elgin #E-1222-P which is Sold as the Summit # SUM-6401 Cam
.466" Int / .488" Exh
224* @ 050 Int / 234* @ 050 Exh
114* LSA
Reccomend:
1.) installing it straight up or 2* advanced (use a degree wheel)
2.) If using a factory Dual Plane Intake grind a .250" deep equalizer port between planes in the plenum.
***** with either Cam insist upon HT-976 Lifters ******
#2
Parts & Accessories Wanted / Re: WTD 68 Charger drip rail m...
Last post by ran396 - Yesterday at 10:49:12 PMI answered you on the other website you sent me question. I just sent you my phone number in private message. Bob Horman
#3
Charger Discussion / Re: Production numbers
Last post by Challenger340 - Yesterday at 10:19:10 PMAround 4,340 1969 Charger R/T SE's
#4
Parts & Accessories Wanted / WTD 68 Charger drip rail moldi...
Last post by tmaleck - Yesterday at 07:54:18 PMMy drip rail moldings got stepped on and bent up pretty badly. Does anyone have a set? 68 Charger with vinyl top.
Tim
kenny_iik@yahoo.com
Tim
kenny_iik@yahoo.com
#5
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Fuel type and cost, what d...
Last post by 426HemiChick - Yesterday at 02:26:54 AMHi Kern, 16 Nov 2025
You're right Kern, Toluene is the ticket. I'd be careful with the stuff. Don't know what hazards it poses. Probably find answers on the net.
I think it might have issues in cold weather.
Take Care
C
You're right Kern, Toluene is the ticket. I'd be careful with the stuff. Don't know what hazards it poses. Probably find answers on the net.
I think it might have issues in cold weather.
Take Care
C
#6
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Old Mopars in the wild
Last post by Chris 69 - November 15, 2025, 11:43:40 PMQuote from: Kern Dog on November 04, 2025, 01:19:30 AMThanks, Chris....I love seeing these "in the wild" pictures you post up.
That black Valiant....
Body looks like a 70-71, grille is a 1969. Hood "Plymouth" emblem was I think 70-72.
What was the price?
Saw the Valiant for sale on Facebook in Anderson, CA... $2500
#7
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Old Mopars in the wild
Last post by Chris 69 - November 15, 2025, 11:41:25 PM1970's Dodge Van. Weaverville, CA. 11-14-25
#8
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Fuel type and cost, what d...
Last post by Kern Dog - November 15, 2025, 09:30:42 PMI have read that Toluene was used to boost octane at one time, they may still use it. No lead anywhere though, that was phased out over 20 years ago, probably longer. The last time I recall buying leaded fuel was in the mid 90s.
#9
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Fuel type and cost, what d...
Last post by 426HemiChick - November 15, 2025, 09:25:29 PMHi High Octane non Alcohol fuel folks, 15 Nov 2025
I'm assuming that you have to go somewhere other than your local QT for the "Non-Alcohol contaminated" fuel. We are in Phoenix AZ, have no clue where to acquire the good stuff . . . . if it's even available here.
Unfortunately, most of our fuel comes from California. The good news is new pipelines are going to be built so we will be able to get fuel from other sources.
Does the 93 octane non "alcoholic" fuel contain Tetraethyl Lead or a reasonable replacement? If the latter, what is the replacement?
C
I'm assuming that you have to go somewhere other than your local QT for the "Non-Alcohol contaminated" fuel. We are in Phoenix AZ, have no clue where to acquire the good stuff . . . . if it's even available here.
Unfortunately, most of our fuel comes from California. The good news is new pipelines are going to be built so we will be able to get fuel from other sources.
Does the 93 octane non "alcoholic" fuel contain Tetraethyl Lead or a reasonable replacement? If the latter, what is the replacement?
C
#10
Interior / Re: REAR shoulder belts, 3 poi...
Last post by Kern Dog - November 15, 2025, 03:57:47 PMI didn't like how short the belts were, the ones with the receiver latch.
I'd prefer that they were longer and stuck up between the seats a little more.
I found that these came in different lengths in the Charger/300/Magnum cars but I haven't nailed down specifics. One thing I noticed about newer cars rear seats....they are often just molded foam without a steel frame like our classics. Maybe that is for weight savings?
These belts are unsupported from the mount to the receiver latch, just nylon without the plastic/vinyl covers like here:
In our cars, the lower seat section slips under the bottom edge of the upper section. This does sort of trap the belts but they can still slip around. I wanted to extend the belts so they would not get shoved in between the seats and hard to reach. Plus, with the ends so short, it isn't so easy connecting the buckle into it, especially for a fat dude.
3/16" steel.....
A couple of bends to it, then clamp the belt to it to mock up....
Test fit of the right side....
The right side sits out about 2 1/2" longer than the left side.
Once I add a sleeve around the belt, it should allow me to click the belt with one hand like a newer car.
More to come...
I'd prefer that they were longer and stuck up between the seats a little more.
I found that these came in different lengths in the Charger/300/Magnum cars but I haven't nailed down specifics. One thing I noticed about newer cars rear seats....they are often just molded foam without a steel frame like our classics. Maybe that is for weight savings?
These belts are unsupported from the mount to the receiver latch, just nylon without the plastic/vinyl covers like here:
In our cars, the lower seat section slips under the bottom edge of the upper section. This does sort of trap the belts but they can still slip around. I wanted to extend the belts so they would not get shoved in between the seats and hard to reach. Plus, with the ends so short, it isn't so easy connecting the buckle into it, especially for a fat dude.
3/16" steel.....
A couple of bends to it, then clamp the belt to it to mock up....
Test fit of the right side....
The right side sits out about 2 1/2" longer than the left side.
Once I add a sleeve around the belt, it should allow me to click the belt with one hand like a newer car.
More to come...