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#1
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Re: Dealing with dieseling-run...
Last post by Kern Dog - Today at 01:40:22 AMToday I drove around a bit but still have not pinpointed what causes this run-on. I forgot to mention, it idles at 800 RPMs.
* Cold start and drive. 25 minutes on the road to a friends place, 95 degree day and the engine got up to temp and stayed there. 89 octane ARCO gasoline. On shut down, it had a short 1 second **snort** and then was done.
* Start up and drive to gas station, added 6 gallons of 91 octane ARCO fuel. Small dieseling when shutting it off to fuel up. I drove another 1/2 hour to a speed shop.
Same thing but the 1/2 hour on higher octane gas made no difference. It snorted when I shut it down.
Back on the road, another 1/2 hour to 45 minutes back to the friends place. I let the engine idle 10 seconds after stopping, then twisted the key. It dieseled but as it started to, I turned the key to RUN, then back to OFF. The dieseling stopped.
I did the same thing later when I drove it home.
Keep in mind, the car does not knock or detonate even with the 89 octane fuel.
I know that I could just shut it down in gear and it won't run on but to me, that is a crutch. It should just shut off and stay off.
Since the pistons were cleaned when I had the heads off in February/March, there should be no hot spots there. I had the heads fully apart for cleaning and lapping the valves then so there are no deposits there either. What is causing this?
It only does it once plenty of heat has made it's way into the whole car. It did not diesel when sitting in the shaded garage even at a 180 degree temperature on the gauge. This car does not overheat. It runs fine in hot weather. I've driven it in 110 degree summer heat and it does not boil over or detonate. The Air/Fuel meter runs at 13.8 to 14.0 at cruise speed which is almost perfect for a 10% ethanol mix.
At FBBO, guys have suggested trying Lucas fuel treatment or gas from a better station. I have always figured that if I was not knocking, the gas must be good enough. Some didn't think so but I'd need to know why they think that.
Things left to try:
*Throttle blade opening. Yeah, if the throttle blades are opened too far at idle, maybe the engine slowing after shut down can still draw fuel into the chambers....but something has to be igniting it, right? Could warm/hot pistons alone be enough?
If I am able to close the throttle blades more, I'd need a way to bring the idle back up to the 800 RPM number that I have now. This can be accomplished by increasing the timing at idle either by twisting the distributor or switching to manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance.
*Spark plugs with a colder heat range. If the current plugs are retaining too much heat, colder plugs may work since they would not serve as a heat source to ignite the fuel.
More to come.
* Cold start and drive. 25 minutes on the road to a friends place, 95 degree day and the engine got up to temp and stayed there. 89 octane ARCO gasoline. On shut down, it had a short 1 second **snort** and then was done.
* Start up and drive to gas station, added 6 gallons of 91 octane ARCO fuel. Small dieseling when shutting it off to fuel up. I drove another 1/2 hour to a speed shop.
Same thing but the 1/2 hour on higher octane gas made no difference. It snorted when I shut it down.
Back on the road, another 1/2 hour to 45 minutes back to the friends place. I let the engine idle 10 seconds after stopping, then twisted the key. It dieseled but as it started to, I turned the key to RUN, then back to OFF. The dieseling stopped.
I did the same thing later when I drove it home.
Keep in mind, the car does not knock or detonate even with the 89 octane fuel.
I know that I could just shut it down in gear and it won't run on but to me, that is a crutch. It should just shut off and stay off.
Since the pistons were cleaned when I had the heads off in February/March, there should be no hot spots there. I had the heads fully apart for cleaning and lapping the valves then so there are no deposits there either. What is causing this?
It only does it once plenty of heat has made it's way into the whole car. It did not diesel when sitting in the shaded garage even at a 180 degree temperature on the gauge. This car does not overheat. It runs fine in hot weather. I've driven it in 110 degree summer heat and it does not boil over or detonate. The Air/Fuel meter runs at 13.8 to 14.0 at cruise speed which is almost perfect for a 10% ethanol mix.
At FBBO, guys have suggested trying Lucas fuel treatment or gas from a better station. I have always figured that if I was not knocking, the gas must be good enough. Some didn't think so but I'd need to know why they think that.
Things left to try:
*Throttle blade opening. Yeah, if the throttle blades are opened too far at idle, maybe the engine slowing after shut down can still draw fuel into the chambers....but something has to be igniting it, right? Could warm/hot pistons alone be enough?
If I am able to close the throttle blades more, I'd need a way to bring the idle back up to the 800 RPM number that I have now. This can be accomplished by increasing the timing at idle either by twisting the distributor or switching to manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance.
*Spark plugs with a colder heat range. If the current plugs are retaining too much heat, colder plugs may work since they would not serve as a heat source to ignite the fuel.
More to come.
#2
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Dealing with dieseling-run on
Last post by Kern Dog - Today at 01:17:06 AMAfter a man has spent some time in late model stuff, you forget about some of the picadillies we deal with with old cars.
One of them is the tendency for an engine to sputter and snort when you shut it off. I am dealing with that now.
The car....
440 based 495 with dished pistons shaped like this:
The flat portion sits at zero deck to encourage quench. The stepped down section is dished to lower compression.
I'm at 9.8 to 1 with the Edelbrock aluminum heads. I use a Demon 850 vacuum secondary 4 barrel on an Edelbrock RPM intake. I have NGK BPKR7 spark plugs and electronic ignition.
I had a big Lunati cam in it but now have a milder hydraulic roller. In both setups, I've had the dreaded dieseling when I shut it down.
Here are my findings:
Cold start, I let it run a couple minutes and shut it down. No run-on.
I got it to about 120 degrees and tried again. It shut off like normal.
I got it to 180 and tried once more. Still shut down and stayed off, no run-on.
I did not drive anywhere. It is an 85 degree day and the car was not driven to spread heat around everything. The fuel is not heated from driving either. This was meant to just see how sensitive it might be and I had to start somewhere.
I have read about this subject and seen comments related to how fuel dripping or a throttle blade opening should not cause this condition, something has to ignite the fuel. This is where deposits or hot spots would contribute to this. With the fresh valve job and cleaning that I did a couple of months ago during the cam swap, the deposits are minimal or non existent. Some comments online allude to low quality gasoline being a possible issue even if the car doesn't detonate with it. I would like to know how that can be. I sure am no chemist or engineer but it just seems like if it runs so good on this gas, why would it run-on after shut down?
I just ran it up to 2000 rpms and shut it down while holding the throttle open and it shut right off. The temp was 180. I have not tried that before. I expected it to ka-lunk...ka-lunk...ka-lunk like it has done before.
Maybe with the temperature up to the usual 190-200 that will change.
More to come.
One of them is the tendency for an engine to sputter and snort when you shut it off. I am dealing with that now.
The car....
440 based 495 with dished pistons shaped like this:
The flat portion sits at zero deck to encourage quench. The stepped down section is dished to lower compression.
I'm at 9.8 to 1 with the Edelbrock aluminum heads. I use a Demon 850 vacuum secondary 4 barrel on an Edelbrock RPM intake. I have NGK BPKR7 spark plugs and electronic ignition.
I had a big Lunati cam in it but now have a milder hydraulic roller. In both setups, I've had the dreaded dieseling when I shut it down.
Here are my findings:
Cold start, I let it run a couple minutes and shut it down. No run-on.
I got it to about 120 degrees and tried again. It shut off like normal.
I got it to 180 and tried once more. Still shut down and stayed off, no run-on.
I did not drive anywhere. It is an 85 degree day and the car was not driven to spread heat around everything. The fuel is not heated from driving either. This was meant to just see how sensitive it might be and I had to start somewhere.
I have read about this subject and seen comments related to how fuel dripping or a throttle blade opening should not cause this condition, something has to ignite the fuel. This is where deposits or hot spots would contribute to this. With the fresh valve job and cleaning that I did a couple of months ago during the cam swap, the deposits are minimal or non existent. Some comments online allude to low quality gasoline being a possible issue even if the car doesn't detonate with it. I would like to know how that can be. I sure am no chemist or engineer but it just seems like if it runs so good on this gas, why would it run-on after shut down?
I just ran it up to 2000 rpms and shut it down while holding the throttle open and it shut right off. The temp was 180. I have not tried that before. I expected it to ka-lunk...ka-lunk...ka-lunk like it has done before.
Maybe with the temperature up to the usual 190-200 that will change.
More to come.
#3
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by zacater - Yesterday at 04:09:32 PMQuote from: 73rallye440magnum on Yesterday at 08:08:38 AM#3 restored runs drives stops.
My pics are all high resolution.
Any pics you can send me?
#4
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by 73rallye440magnum - Yesterday at 08:08:38 AM#3 restored runs drives stops.
My pics are all high resolution.
My pics are all high resolution.
#5
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by Mopar Nut - Yesterday at 06:36:37 AMQuote from: 73rallye440magnum on July 18, 2026, 10:50:05 PMIf I knew how on this site!Hit Preview at the bottom of the reply box, it'll open up this "Click or drag files here to attach them." click on it to add pictures.
#6
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by 70 sublime - Yesterday at 06:21:42 AMQuote from: 73rallye440magnum on July 18, 2026, 01:39:37 PMI have a '70 I'll be selling soon-
Plum crazy, white top, white stripe, white interior. 440 column auto. Clean title in my name.
Rapid City SD feel free to message.
Is the 70 a restored fixed up car or project car ?
#7
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by 73rallye440magnum - July 18, 2026, 10:50:05 PMIf I knew how on this site!
#8
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by Mopar Nut - July 18, 2026, 07:44:07 PMQuote from: 73rallye440magnum on July 18, 2026, 01:39:37 PMI have a '70 I'll be selling soon-Pictures?
Plum crazy, white top, white stripe, white interior. 440 column auto. Clean title in my name.
Rapid City SD feel free to message.
#9
Charger Discussion / Re: Charger Market questions…
Last post by 73rallye440magnum - July 18, 2026, 01:39:37 PMI have a '70 I'll be selling soon-
Plum crazy, white top, white stripe, white interior. 440 column auto. Clean title in my name.
Rapid City SD feel free to message.
Plum crazy, white top, white stripe, white interior. 440 column auto. Clean title in my name.
Rapid City SD feel free to message.
#10
Charger Discussion / Re: My free 69 charger R/T ......
Last post by metallicareload99 - July 17, 2026, 12:06:54 PMI don't know how I missed this thread, but glad you are still @ it! As long as the frame and suspension locations are correct the car should drive fine, everything else is cosmetic. The way everyone talks about these cars, the way everyone says how sloppily built these cars are, yours is probably gonna be nicer 