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Recent posts
#1
Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires / Re: Rotor upgrade?
Last post by John_Kunkel - Today at 11:32:06 AMDo you know the piston diameter of the calipers you have now? You might be able to improve the braking by going to a larger piston caliper (more clamping power) with the same rotors and won't have to worry about wheel clearance.
#2
Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires / Re: Rotor upgrade?
Last post by timmycharger - Today at 07:26:59 AMThank you, forgot about Dr. Diff. I will be certainly checking into what I can get away with w/o changing my wheels as I want to keep them for now.
Way back, Rich E (Mopar Action) had the great disc swap article that had 12 inch rotors that I am pretty sure fit in 15 inch wheels but they used different type calipers with the pins.
Way back, Rich E (Mopar Action) had the great disc swap article that had 12 inch rotors that I am pretty sure fit in 15 inch wheels but they used different type calipers with the pins.
#3
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Re: 505 Stroker swap
Last post by timmycharger - Today at 07:17:32 AMsome pics:
#4
Engine, Transmission, Rearend, & Exhaust / Re: 505 Stroker swap
Last post by timmycharger - Today at 07:13:28 AMMade some progress over the weekend. The engine/trans/K frame have been removed from below and the disassembly of the engine has begun. Pretty easy process, even doing it by myself which I had to as both my boys were not available and I am far too impatient to wait. Couple of annoying things I forgot to disconnect like the steering coupler and the z bar but after that, smooth sailing.
The US Car tool body lift worked perfectly however there are even easier options out there. I was watching a you tube vid of a member (former?) Chris Birdsong (CB Restorations) and he had a slick set of mounts that go down by the bottom of the radiator support instead of using the bumper bolts which allows the same job w/o removing the bumper and valance.
My homemade rolling rig that was buried in storage for 10 years still worked great.
I removed the starter before remembering I wanted to do a compression test so I ended up rotating the crank by hand with the spark plugs removed to see if all the valves were opening and sure enough, I have a wiped intake cam lobe at cylinder 8.
I will say it was still running well for having only 7 cylinders for who knows how long.
The US Car tool body lift worked perfectly however there are even easier options out there. I was watching a you tube vid of a member (former?) Chris Birdsong (CB Restorations) and he had a slick set of mounts that go down by the bottom of the radiator support instead of using the bumper bolts which allows the same job w/o removing the bumper and valance.
My homemade rolling rig that was buried in storage for 10 years still worked great.
I removed the starter before remembering I wanted to do a compression test so I ended up rotating the crank by hand with the spark plugs removed to see if all the valves were opening and sure enough, I have a wiped intake cam lobe at cylinder 8.
I will say it was still running well for having only 7 cylinders for who knows how long.
#5
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Well....I finally caved-in...
Last post by Kern Dog - Yesterday at 05:15:27 PMNacho's experiences sound like what happens in Chicago, Oakland and Detroit.
#6
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Well....I finally caved-in...
Last post by lloyd3 - Yesterday at 03:17:23 PMNacho...wow! We take a lot for granted in this country obviously. Appreciate that insight.
#7
Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires / Re: Rotor upgrade?
Last post by Kern Dog - July 11, 2026, 04:41:39 AMOh yeah, the 15" wheel will limit the rotor choices.
Generally, the rotor needs to be 3 inches less than the wheel diameter. Not always but that is a common thing.
I have 13" rotors on my red car, they are in a kit from Dr Diff. I have 18" wheels though.
Generally, the rotor needs to be 3 inches less than the wheel diameter. Not always but that is a common thing.
I have 13" rotors on my red car, they are in a kit from Dr Diff. I have 18" wheels though.
#8
Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires / Re: Rotor upgrade?
Last post by will - July 10, 2026, 05:14:49 PM #9
Car Guys Discussion / Re: Well....I finally caved-in...
Last post by Nacho-RT74 - July 10, 2026, 06:48:19 AMToyota is the best rated/valued car brand in Venezuela. Even used they use to be high priced over the rest and still ppl tries to get them over the rest of brands. Toyota has/had a local assembly plant although I think right now is closed by the crisis there so they are all imported now, which increases the prices. And still ppl pay the price.
In the lates 80s we had one 84 FJ60 bought used which was in fact locally assembled. Pretty sure the best car my dad bought ever as a family car (aside a lates 60s FIAT 2300 when he was single bought new and kept it untill 1980 or so when I was a kid). We really enjoyed that FJ60 traveling around Venezuela on vacations.
He sold it on earliers 90s but then on lates 90s got the opportunity to buy again a VERY LOW MILES 86 FJ60 in impressive conditions! But just last long 6 months with us. He got robbed with a gun on his head... almost kidnapped with the FJ60 in fact.
The fear to be robbed/kidnapped with a SUV was the reason he sold the first one. Never happened but with the second one.
The first one was replaced by a 1975 Nova... which, laugh with this, was stolen around 5 years later being parked on the street while was on an used car dealer negotiating it the trade for a 1988 long chassis Jeep Wrangler ( a model never assembled in USA but in Venezuela and Australia, just like a CJ8 but full hardtop)
In the lates 80s we had one 84 FJ60 bought used which was in fact locally assembled. Pretty sure the best car my dad bought ever as a family car (aside a lates 60s FIAT 2300 when he was single bought new and kept it untill 1980 or so when I was a kid). We really enjoyed that FJ60 traveling around Venezuela on vacations.
He sold it on earliers 90s but then on lates 90s got the opportunity to buy again a VERY LOW MILES 86 FJ60 in impressive conditions! But just last long 6 months with us. He got robbed with a gun on his head... almost kidnapped with the FJ60 in fact.
The fear to be robbed/kidnapped with a SUV was the reason he sold the first one. Never happened but with the second one.
The first one was replaced by a 1975 Nova... which, laugh with this, was stolen around 5 years later being parked on the street while was on an used car dealer negotiating it the trade for a 1988 long chassis Jeep Wrangler ( a model never assembled in USA but in Venezuela and Australia, just like a CJ8 but full hardtop)
#10
Aero Cars / CAR VILLAGE SUPERBIRD IS NOW F...
Last post by GOTWING - July 08, 2026, 04:55:02 PMWell it's been awhile since I've posted anything on here. The time has come to put my bird up for sale. RM23U0A167142 "Car Village Bird" It's been a great 22 years since we discovered it. We have had good and bad memories with it. I'm moving on in a different direction now. The cars history is well known on here by now. Here is the listing that I've come up with. Any advice is appreciated positive or negative.
1970 PLYMOUTH SUPERBIRD
Known as the "Car Village" Superbird
Original Vitamin C car
Original U code car.
Original rare white bench seat interior. ( can't find another )
Automatic on the column.
45,000 original miles.
Near mint original broadcast sheet, two found inside car buyer gets both. ( second one is torn )
Numbers matching 440 engine
Transmission is not matching numbers.
Original fender tag in excellent condition.
Original factory vinyl top is still in place.
All original untouched white bench seat interior with the exception of a brand-new headliner & rear package tray in 2005.
Even the carpet is original to the car. The headliner was perfect except for a mouse hole above the driver's sun visor.
One hair line crack in the dash about three inches long. ( The paint guy did it leaning on it ! ) The stitching on the passenger side seat has let go in a couple of places. ( I just cover it up with the original seat belts at car shows. ( I wanted to keep the seats the original material )
The car was found in April of 2004, we purchased it from the guy who purchased it from "Car Village" in Lebanon, PA in 1980. He traded in a Dodge truck on it.
The windshield still has the 1981 expired sticker in place. The car sat inside a two-car detached garage from 81-04 at his house in MD.
Original am radio
NOS $$$$ new old stock nose installed by Mike Mancini after the original was bumped
Into at a car show and damaged a few years later. ( have pictures ) The original nose did have some filler in it anyway probably from previous bumps. NOS nose came from Doug S.
With having the NOS nose it's nice to know there is no filler in it guaranteed. ( I probably got the last one known to exist so I was told )
Hagerty paid out over $30,000 for the NOS nose with paint, new decals rubber strip, swapping the headlight buckets over and the labor from Mike Mancini's American Muscle Car Restorations. The only metal work done on the car was the very lower passenger ¼ panel as it was bent and pushed up some. ( I have pictures on here )
Solid rust-free car with just a repaint in 2005 that we had done. It's kind of a survivor with a repaint if that makes sense.
After an easy repaint, we installed new decals, door handles and a new rear bumper.
In 2005 the fuel tank and lines were replaced along with all four brakes, calipers hoses and master cylinder etc.
Also replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, belt, alternator and all of the hoses. ( saved all of the original parts ) I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Also replaced the heater core. I wanted to make the car dependable which it has been for over 20 years.
New poly glass Good year tires from Coker tire in 2005 ( I have put about 5,000 miles on them )
Spare tire is also a new Good Year tire to match the rest. Has not left the trunk since.
Replaced old washer bottle with new one in 2005 ( not hooked up & Kept old bottle )
Transmission pan was replaced ( kept the original pan ) replaced trans fluid.
The entire exhaust system was replaced and has new oem type factory tips out the back.
Upgraded the carb to an Edelbrock ( saved the original carb to the car )
Upgraded to a MSD electronic ignition. ( saved original distributor ) All original parts go with the car. ( I even saved the old poly glass tires that were on it. )
After market Sun tach in dash is unhooked now with the addition of the new ignition upgrade. ( tach was there when I got it and it worked )
Battery is a couple years old and always has a tender on it.
California car cover is included.
The headlight doors work flawlessly every time not ever one issue with them.
All of the lights and turn signals work fine, interior light works, wipers work, meep meep horn works.
The trunk floorpan and all the other floor pans are original to the car. It has a new trunk mat ( saved original one )
The only metal work done was the very lower passenger ¼ panel as it was bent and pushed up some. ( I have pictures on here )
A couple of things to note**
The original jacks are missing
I have an original air cleaner that I picked up at Carlisle to go with the car but it's in primer. ( The original one was missing when we picked the car up in 2004 ) I would like to keep the Direct Connection one that's currently on it. ( It's been on a few other cars that I have owned over the years. )
The dash lights recently quit lighting up, I need to check the fuses the red high beam light will still come on.
If it sits for a long period of time it will crank a bit until it starts but always does.
I'm asking $225,000 or best offer. Feel free to chime in. I have the car listed on Marketplace & marketplace Mopar groups. I have tons of pictures on my phone that I can send if anyone is interested.
I'm not going to lie it will be an emotional day when it leaves. My wife and I were only dating for about 8 months when we purchased it. My kids all grew up with this car and we have a lot of great memories with it. My wife says I'll regret it. I'm looking for a change and to be honest it's not even enjoyable anymore to drive it. I'm a nervous wreck trying to protect the nos nose on it. The traffic in my area has tripled in 20 years. For the amount of times I drive it compared to my yearly premium is nuts. I'm looking to get a nice E body convertible to replace it.
I have rambled on enough, GOTWING - out.
1970 PLYMOUTH SUPERBIRD
Known as the "Car Village" Superbird
Original Vitamin C car
Original U code car.
Original rare white bench seat interior. ( can't find another )
Automatic on the column.
45,000 original miles.
Near mint original broadcast sheet, two found inside car buyer gets both. ( second one is torn )
Numbers matching 440 engine
Transmission is not matching numbers.
Original fender tag in excellent condition.
Original factory vinyl top is still in place.
All original untouched white bench seat interior with the exception of a brand-new headliner & rear package tray in 2005.
Even the carpet is original to the car. The headliner was perfect except for a mouse hole above the driver's sun visor.
One hair line crack in the dash about three inches long. ( The paint guy did it leaning on it ! ) The stitching on the passenger side seat has let go in a couple of places. ( I just cover it up with the original seat belts at car shows. ( I wanted to keep the seats the original material )
The car was found in April of 2004, we purchased it from the guy who purchased it from "Car Village" in Lebanon, PA in 1980. He traded in a Dodge truck on it.
The windshield still has the 1981 expired sticker in place. The car sat inside a two-car detached garage from 81-04 at his house in MD.
Original am radio
NOS $$$$ new old stock nose installed by Mike Mancini after the original was bumped
Into at a car show and damaged a few years later. ( have pictures ) The original nose did have some filler in it anyway probably from previous bumps. NOS nose came from Doug S.
With having the NOS nose it's nice to know there is no filler in it guaranteed. ( I probably got the last one known to exist so I was told )
Hagerty paid out over $30,000 for the NOS nose with paint, new decals rubber strip, swapping the headlight buckets over and the labor from Mike Mancini's American Muscle Car Restorations. The only metal work done on the car was the very lower passenger ¼ panel as it was bent and pushed up some. ( I have pictures on here )
Solid rust-free car with just a repaint in 2005 that we had done. It's kind of a survivor with a repaint if that makes sense.
After an easy repaint, we installed new decals, door handles and a new rear bumper.
In 2005 the fuel tank and lines were replaced along with all four brakes, calipers hoses and master cylinder etc.
Also replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, belt, alternator and all of the hoses. ( saved all of the original parts ) I'm sure I'm forgetting something.
Also replaced the heater core. I wanted to make the car dependable which it has been for over 20 years.
New poly glass Good year tires from Coker tire in 2005 ( I have put about 5,000 miles on them )
Spare tire is also a new Good Year tire to match the rest. Has not left the trunk since.
Replaced old washer bottle with new one in 2005 ( not hooked up & Kept old bottle )
Transmission pan was replaced ( kept the original pan ) replaced trans fluid.
The entire exhaust system was replaced and has new oem type factory tips out the back.
Upgraded the carb to an Edelbrock ( saved the original carb to the car )
Upgraded to a MSD electronic ignition. ( saved original distributor ) All original parts go with the car. ( I even saved the old poly glass tires that were on it. )
After market Sun tach in dash is unhooked now with the addition of the new ignition upgrade. ( tach was there when I got it and it worked )
Battery is a couple years old and always has a tender on it.
California car cover is included.
The headlight doors work flawlessly every time not ever one issue with them.
All of the lights and turn signals work fine, interior light works, wipers work, meep meep horn works.
The trunk floorpan and all the other floor pans are original to the car. It has a new trunk mat ( saved original one )
The only metal work done was the very lower passenger ¼ panel as it was bent and pushed up some. ( I have pictures on here )
A couple of things to note**
The original jacks are missing
I have an original air cleaner that I picked up at Carlisle to go with the car but it's in primer. ( The original one was missing when we picked the car up in 2004 ) I would like to keep the Direct Connection one that's currently on it. ( It's been on a few other cars that I have owned over the years. )
The dash lights recently quit lighting up, I need to check the fuses the red high beam light will still come on.
If it sits for a long period of time it will crank a bit until it starts but always does.
I'm asking $225,000 or best offer. Feel free to chime in. I have the car listed on Marketplace & marketplace Mopar groups. I have tons of pictures on my phone that I can send if anyone is interested.
I'm not going to lie it will be an emotional day when it leaves. My wife and I were only dating for about 8 months when we purchased it. My kids all grew up with this car and we have a lot of great memories with it. My wife says I'll regret it. I'm looking for a change and to be honest it's not even enjoyable anymore to drive it. I'm a nervous wreck trying to protect the nos nose on it. The traffic in my area has tripled in 20 years. For the amount of times I drive it compared to my yearly premium is nuts. I'm looking to get a nice E body convertible to replace it.
I have rambled on enough, GOTWING - out.