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How well should the car stop? W/ 4 wheel drums

Started by XH29N0G, January 18, 2015, 06:13:36 PM

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ws23rt

A simple test is to hit the brakes hard and if they lock up what more can one want.
The difference with disc is the recovery time ---cooling off--- is quicker.
Usually one panic stop at a time is all we encounter.

XH29N0G

Quote from: ws23rt on February 18, 2015, 10:00:31 PM
A simple test is to hit the brakes hard and if they lock up what more can one want.
The difference with disc is the recovery time ---cooling off--- is quicker.
Usually one panic stop at a time is all we encounter.

Thanks everyone, as usual, there are a lot of suggestions to follow up on and tests I can do.  This is very helpful.  Once the salt is off the roads I will see if I can lock up the tires.  It does stop, I just don't have the feel on the pedal like the stop rate is fully proportional to the pedal pressure.
   
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

green69rt

Several mentioned that the front drums may need adjustment, after all that is where 80% of your stopping power is.   Easy to check and should probably be the first thing to check.  How do yours stack up? 

polywideblock

knew I'd find it  as charger -bodie  said  musclecarbrakes .com  "brake in a box" kits   

                                           http://musclecarbrakes.com/


  and 71 GA4  383 magnum  SE

XH29N0G

Quote from: green69rt on February 19, 2015, 08:44:00 AM
Several mentioned that the front drums may need adjustment, after all that is where 80% of your stopping power is.   Easy to check and should probably be the first thing to check.  How do yours stack up? 

Thank you.  Can you clarify what you mean by stack up? 

(I have never worked on brakes before.  Can you also advise on how to tell if they are adjusted correctly.  My understanding is that they are self adjusting. They do not pull to the left or right and were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.  I am still not certain that it is not simply that I am not accustomed to the way the pedal feel should be and that they simply are not locking up because I put larger tires on the car.  I still think I might see if I can lock them up once the weather warms as a first test, but if others think I should be doing something else, let me know.)
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

green69rt

Quote from: XH29N0G on February 21, 2015, 05:29:30 PM
Quote from: green69rt on February 19, 2015, 08:44:00 AM
Several mentioned that the front drums may need adjustment, after all that is where 80% of your stopping power is.   Easy to check and should probably be the first thing to check.  How do yours stack up?  

Thank you.  Can you clarify what you mean by stack up?  

(I have never worked on brakes before.  Can you also advise on how to tell if they are adjusted correctly.  My understanding is that they are self adjusting. They do not pull to the left or right and were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.  I am still not certain that it is not simply that I am not accustomed to the way the pedal feel should be and that they simply are not locking up because I put larger tires on the car.  I still think I might see if I can lock them up once the weather warms as a first test, but if others think I should be doing something else, let me know.)

By "stack up" I mean how well are they adjusted.  And the only way to tell is to do a little test.  Leave the tire/wheel mounted on the car.  Pry out the little oval shaped rubber plugs on the back of the backing plate.  Get a brake adjusting tool, sometimes a screwdriver works just as well.  Look thru the hole with a light and find the star wheel that adjusts the brakes.  Turn the wheel by hand as you turn the star wheel by digging the screwdriver blade into the teeth on the star wheel.  When you feel the wheel start to drag on the brake shoes, back off just a little till the wheel turns freely.  Brake is adjusted.   If it takes a lot of adjustment then the brakes where not adjusted correctly.   Problem with this method is you have to know which way to turn the star wheel.  Experience helps or just take the drum off and look at the wheel and figure it out.

Yes, a lot of cars have self adjusters but I really don't know how well they work, that's why you have to check them manually.

Really, the best way to do this is find someone that's experienced in this and have them walk you thru the process.  Once you've done a couple of wheels it is really easy.  You can even do it without the wheel/tire mounted up, I just do it with them on because I'm lazy.

If you need pics I'll pull a wheel and try to post some pictures when I get time.

green69rt

Just read you last post again.  Now, I'm thinking that the person that replaced the brakes did not adjust them properly.   

XH29N0G

Thank you.  I have seen this described and understand what you are suggesting.  I also have a spare set that are assembled that I can look at to get the hang of it. This is something I can check, but not until it is a little warmer b/c my garage was built in 1952 and there is not enough room to do this safely inside.  I'll keep you and everyone else posted about the results. 

Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

PlainfieldCharger

 :Twocents: Make sure you have the self adjusting cable to the correct side. I have seen many rear drums done "backwards"