A-833 transmission oil and Dana60 rear axle oil

[mysil bergsprekken]

Hi guys. What oil do you use, and which oil would be best suited for the 4-speed a-833 and dana60 rearend?

I am thinking about using this setup:
A-833: CASTROL AXLE Z LIMITED SLIP 90
          (previously known as Hypoy LS 90)
see: http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014115&contentId=7068181

Dana60: CASTROL MANUAL EP 80W-90
             Mineral manual gearbox oil GL-4
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=9014115&contentId=7068180
There is one called "EP 80 W" also.

What do you think?

[elacruze]

I used Royal Purple MaxGear 75w140 in both trans and axle, and I'm very pleased. The trans is smooth and crisp, the rear axle was set up wrong, I knew the carrier bearings were too tight and the backlash too loose, and after 1800 miles on the Power Tour there is zero shiny stuff in either end. The rear axle is quieting down as the gears mate again, no sign of metal in the oil.

[Budnicks]

Yep Royal Purple is good stuff.......

[A383Wing]

I'm running what the service manual & owners manual calls for: 140w in the trans, 90w in the rear gear

[mysil bergsprekken]

So the service manual calls for either SAE 140 or SAE 90 in the A-833 transmission :
"Fill transmission with multi-purpose gear oil SAE 140. If shift effort becomes extremely high during cold weather, multi-purpose gear oil SAE 80 or 90 should be used"

And I suppose one should not use any higher GL value than GL-4 ? Since the additives in GL-5 is no good for the manual trans. Is this correct?

[Charger-Bodie]

gl-4 for the trans and gl-5 for the rear end. I think some of the other determining factors to the wieght ,etc. are the cars purpose ,climate ,etc.

[mysil bergsprekken]

elacruze:
I've heard good things about royal purple. Seems like royal purple provides a good alternative when it comes to lubes and liquides for mopar. Nice to hear that you hanven't had any problems with it.

One thing thouh; the rumour that synthetic oils are not good for manual transmissions.

And one more thing, the oil you mentioned, "MaxGear 75w140",  is a also a GL-5 oil. What about that?

description:
http://www.royalpurple.com/gear-oil.html

[mysil bergsprekken]

gl-4 for the trans and gl-for the rear end. I think some of the other determining factors to the wieght ,etc. are the cars purpose ,climate ,etc.

Did you mean: GL-5 for the rear end?

[Charger-Bodie]

gl-4 for the trans and gl-for the rear end. I think some of the other determining factors to the wieght ,etc. are the cars purpose ,climate ,etc.

Did you mean: GL-5 for the rear end?

Yes,Sorry about that .Iwill go back and change it. 

[elacruze]

elacruze:
I've heard good things about royal purple. Seems like royal purple provides a good alternative when it comes to lubes and liquides for mopar. Nice to hear that you hanven't had any problems with it.

One thing thouh; the rumour that synthetic oils are not good for manual transmissions.

And one more thing, the oil you mentioned, "MaxGear 75w140",  is a also a GL-5 oil. What about that?

description:
http://www.royalpurple.com/gear-oil.html

I called Royal Purple and asked about the GL-5 rating and the rumors about the effect on yellow metals. Apparently early GL-5 lubricants had compounds that would eat the synchro rings. RP told me that their GL-5 lubricants would have no effect on yellow metal below 350*F, which will never be approached in the transmission, although rear axles can easily get that hot (probably not in a car though)

[mysil bergsprekken]

elacruze:
Nice research! Sorry, but what is meant by "yellow metals" ?
So conclusive on the RP oil, is that it although it has additives making it a GL-5, the additives has no supposed harmful effect on the syncro rings or brass components or whatever is in there.

So the fact that it is a synthetic and not a dino/mineral oil is no issue, you would say.
The real syntetics are made using a "Poly-Alpha-Olefin based technology."
Have no idea how that process is done, or how it affects the end result.
It is just known that synthetic oil is "better" and lasts longer, (don't need to change it that often)

Still there are folks swearing the mineral oils are the ones to be used.
I can't seem to get any wiser on that issue.

[elacruze]

elacruze:
Nice research! Sorry, but what is meant by "yellow metals" ?
So conclusive on the RP oil, is that it although it has additives making it a GL-5, the additives has no supposed harmful effect on the syncro rings or brass components or whatever is in there.

So the fact that it is a synthetic and not a dino/mineral oil is no issue, you would say.
The real syntetics are made using a "Poly-Alpha-Olefin based technology."
Have no idea how that process is done, or how it affects the end result.
It is just known that synthetic oil is "better" and lasts longer, (don't need to change it that often)

Still there are folks swearing the mineral oils are the ones to be used.
I can't seem to get any wiser on that issue.

'Yellow Metals' are copper, brass, and bronze and their alloys.

http://www.brindleymetals.co.uk/brasses-yellow-metals-supplier.html

Royal Purple makes an equivalent to non GL-5 transmission oil, which I probably would have used if I could have found it locally. I used what I had, but that's why I called them to talk to a techie in person.

The major difference between 'natural' and 'synthetic' oils is the purity of the synthetics; they have a higher amount of 'target' molecules, since the target was produced rather than distilled out of the mass of others.

[Chargerguy74]

Anyone run Lubegard in their oil?

[mysil bergsprekken]

ok, so that is what's meant by yellow metals.

RP looks like a good way to go.

"the target molecules was produced rather than distilled out of the mass of others".
It seems difficult for me to fully understand the process of making the best oil, of course, guess I/we just have to listen to what the technicians say about this.

[mysil bergsprekken]

But what do you guys think about those Castrol options that I mentioned ??
Could I go whrong with those?

[Charger-Bodie]

Here is a link to the stuff I recently bought when a friend of mine made me aware of the gl4 vs gl5 deal....I will be trying this stuff in the transmission. The gl-5 stuff thats in the rear will be fine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380341880204&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

[mysil bergsprekken]

Thanks. Redline, yes, I've heard about it. Seems to me as also a good alternative.

As far as I see, their GL-5 oil doesn't say anything about having litited slip additives in it. But I see that redline also sell a small bottle of LS additives. So that might be the solution there.

[69fuchs]

Use GL-4 in manual transmissions with brass syncros. 

GL-5 will not damage the syncros, but it is a hypoid oil that is designed as a high pressure lubricant.
The brass syncro rings have a difficult time gripping the cone on the gear with high pressure lubricants. This can cause difficult shifting, especially under power.

[Troy]

I bought GL4 Penzoil 80W-90 weight from Brewers when I recently had my transmission rebuilt. They told me not to use anything that said "hypoid" in the transmission.

I used Valvoline 80W90 with friction modifier in the last two rear ends because it was easily available.

Troy

[c00nhunterjoe]

So then my tranny might not be burnt up? Its very hard to speed shift and 4th is basicly impossible to do. The harder you drive it the harder it is to shift. It has 80w90 castrol gl5 hypoid gear oil.

[mysil bergsprekken]

c00nhunterjoe:
It would be very interesting to see if your problem with your tranny got better if you decided to change your gear oil to a GL-4.
But I would guess that most likely it is a problem with the levers going from your shifter in into the tranny. one of them might not be correctly adjusted.
But still you should try and change to a GL-4 oil and hope for the best, and let us know ??

[c00nhunterjoe]

The shifter and levers are spot-on.   All gear shifts are "notchy" while speed shifting but the 3-4 is guranteed to miss every time unless I lift slightly on the throttle. When I miss it doesn't neccesarily "grind" that I can tell, but it des not go into gear. I doubt I will do a fluid swap this season. The whole front clip is off of the car right now awaiting me to get the promised time off work that seems to have eluded me somehow

[mysil bergsprekken]

Alright, well hopefully you will have time to work on your charger, and the gear oil replaced, and that it works out for you. If it can be fixed by changing oil, you are well off. Let us know how it goes when you get to it.