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stock 440 water pump housing

Started by comet_666, July 13, 2021, 07:17:49 PM

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comet_666

How many ports are on there where I could put a temp sensor? I have one in there now for my dakota digital gauges, one for my fi-tech and it seems as if there is another one there? I am needing to put another temp sensor there for my electric fan setup.

Thanks!!

Hemidog

Can't you use the fitech to control the fans?

Dakota digital also has an fan control unit that can connect to the excising system to control multiple fans (high/low) (item PAC-2750). This is the one I use.

My WP has 3 ports for potential temp sending units, and I use 2 (1 Fitech and 1 Dakota)


comet_666

The fan harness also has a seperate harness and pigtail just for the temp sensor.

What is the hole (yellow arrow) for?


Hemidog

Quote from: comet_666 on July 14, 2021, 10:40:52 AM
The fan harness also has a seperate harness and pigtail just for the temp sensor.

What is the hole (yellow arrow) for?


That's for one of the heater hoses.

comet_666

Could I stick a temp sensor in there and have it work? What about the other yellow arrow, I believe that was the stock port?
So basically I bought a duel brushless fan package and the wiring kits for them, they cannot use relays and come with a 3/8 temp sensor pigtail that plugs into a harness that plugs into the fans. Or could I hack off the connector on my new harness and splice it into either the fi tech or dakota digital temp sensor?

armor64

you would need to make sure that the sende that came in the fan kit is a thermo switch not a range sender in that case. (fan on, fan off), as that is what signal most other control systems send. Basically making sure the fans dont have a controller box reading temps. i have the base model 600hp FITECH with 1 fan control, but ended up going with the Dakota Digital fan controller for the RTX gauges (took 20 weeks to make FML..) with the DD one, you can easily set on and off for 2 fans, as well as speed shutdown above any mph you want. their bluetooth app is handy as. For my case it was a stacking of issues that helped me decide. I have Fitech (1, 3/8 temp sender), dakota digital ( 1, 1/8 sender), but I also have the proform water pump housing, with only those 2 ports available. not wanting to drill another hole, the DD saves having a 3rd sender.

as a warning about the proform, if you use it and have CVF racing V belt pulley drive with AC, you need to shorten the DD temp wiring boot, its too tall to fit under the AC compressor, careful hacksawing a wiring plug was required...

John_Kunkel

Yellow arrows show the heater return (suction side of the pump) which is not a good source for a temp sender. In the absence of enough usable ports on the pump housing, they make threaded spacers for under the thermostat housing that can be used for the heater hose to free up a port in the pump housing.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mez-wn0028s/make/plymouth
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

comet_666

Oh, I have not seen anything like this before! It says it can be used for water temperature sending units (assuming this is temp sensor?)

armor64

i used one of those 4-port ones for my engine breakin. works well, as long as you dont have clearance issues with AC pump brackets (it raises everything 1.5-2in). the 4 threaded holes come with 1/2npt plugs, so you can use whichever one you need to. Just be careful, the O-ring base was setup for a chevy sized smaller ridge thermostat, not the wide flange thermostat for the 440 i had. lots of RTV and 2 gaskets and it sealed just fine though.

comet_666

Luckily I don't have AC!  oh wait...well I wish I had it but in this situation it might be my only choice! I sent an email to SPAL to check and make sure that will work.
ill keep you guys posted and as always thinks for the assistance!

armor64

ah ok, if its the SPAL kit with their sender, this is the info i found in a few of the PDFs for the install instructions from their site:

"Thermal Switch Installation:
The Thermal Switch is an OE-style, thermostatically controlled sender that switches the fans on at 185 degrees when wired properly. When
the temperature drops to 165 degrees, the switch opens and the fan(s) will switch off. The sender has a 3/8" NPT thread and can be mounted
directly into a water port on the cylinder head or the intake manifold. An adapter is included for applications with a ½" NPT port, other sizes
can be found at most automotive parts stores. It is important to not use Teflon tape or other types of sealant on the threads as it could create a
poor electrical connection that would cause incorrect temperature readings and improper fan operation."

so that sounds like a switch not a gauge sweep sender, so you should be safe with any FITECH/DD controls with on/off power switching. but definitely get it from them directly if they respond.

comet_666

They told me it will only work by itself, not through any other sensor, I ordered the spacer John_Kunkel suggested, SPAL said that would work just fine.
Any special thermostat housing bolts I should use? Other than ones that are an inch longer? Also should I mount the 2 inline 40 amp fuses near the battery or as close as I can to the fans?

Thanks all!

Nacho-RT74

If you still have the ammeter, all accesories should be sourced from alt post, not the batt
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

comet_666

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on July 19, 2021, 08:56:07 AM
If you still have the ammeter, all accesories should be sourced from alt post, not the batt
i'm using the dakota digital which has volts meter. According to SPAL they want nothing in the way (relays or anything else) other than 1 40 amp maxi fuse per lead between battery and brushless fans. I was going to use the starter relay (my battery is located in the trunk) and SPAL said do not do that.