I NEED YOUR HELP!

[Flamdremon]

Ok so here is the deal. Im starting a project this summer. a 1970 charger r/t. (wanted to for so long but didnt have the cash but now i do) I was wondering a few things. How much does a charger weigh with only the essentials for racing left in it? with or without its motor. (passenger seats taken out ex ex ex) now the next part. What is the cheapest option of getting 900ish horsepower (goal is to get into the loooowwwww 9s in the quarter) without Nos. yes I KNOW IT WONT BE CHEAP im just asking of all the options whats the cheapest way. And if a hemi is even an option (even if it costs more) ied like some insight on that too. I appreciate all the help i can get here.

[68X426]

A Hemi (of any generation, and any build) is not an option.  The words cheap and Hemi cannot be used in the same sentence.  Take it from this Hemi owner.

Use a bored and stroked 440 and great heads.  A 440 will offer the most bang for the buck.  The professional builders on the forum will provide the details.

[Flamdremon]

I understand it wouldnt be cheap but do you have any rough numbers for the hemi job? Im just trying to gather as much info as possible.

[68X426]

Hemi with 900 horses is likely $30,000 and maybe $40,000.  A hot 440 could be in the 15-20k range.  Again, listen to the experienced builders who will post here over the coming week.  Be patient.

I'll say the obvious too:  you'll need to spend big bucks to get the power to the ground (trans, diff, frame, suspension, tires).

[Challenger340]

A well built carbureted HEMI above 900hp on pump gas(91 octane) runs around $35K, but should get you there depending upon the Charger/Suspension etc. built to handle that power level.
see here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,96184.0.html

Plus 900 Hp Wedges,(again carbureted no Blower or Nitrous) are not much cheaper at that level.

[skip68]

   
Welcome to the site.   Go to our performance section and you can get answers there quicker.  There is also a proven engine combos section from guys that have built and dyno tuned motors.   Good luck.  

[JB400]

Just a suggestion:  Don't start with a 70 Charger.  Instead, build up a tube chassis  and skin it to resemble a 70 Charger.  If you start with a 70, you'd cut quite a bit of it out anyway to get the car safe for competition and to get the car to hook up.  Even after you cut everything out, it's still going to be fairly heavy compared to a tube chassis.  Also, you'd probably end up buying new quarters, tail panel and light weight front end doors and trunk.

  A tube chassis would be safer, lighter, and should be able to handle the horsepower that you're wanting.

[Homerr]

Welcome the DC.

Do you need to get to your goal on the first try?  Have you built a car before?  Do you have the car already?  What is your overall budget?

[Flamdremon]

Its probably going to be a 2-3 year project with a 40-60k budget depending on what i want to do and what money i have. And ied like to get it on the first try if possible. And i dont quite undertand the roller idea

[ACUDANUT]

KEITH BLACK race Hemi's get what ? 1500 horses ? 

[Mike DC]

  
Tube chassis + Chevy drivetrain + 70 Charger outer skin.  Its not what you want to hear but it's the most cost-effective way to get there.  

If you don't wanna do the Chevy drivetrain then use a 440-based setup.  Hemi stands for Have Enormous Money Invested. 

The "70 Charger outer skin" can be a fiberglass shell.  Or it can be just the roof & sides of the steel car mounted onto a custom floor/cage.  Either way don't start with a decent solid '70 Charger R/T body when you'll be cutting off the undercarriage & gutting everything for custom work anyway.  You can buy a $1000 rusty Charger shell with no solid frame that will do the job almost as well.    




Or you can toss the ideas of 900 hp and 9-sec quarter miles, and just build the car you were picturing in your mind (which was probably more like 12 sec in reality).  You will probably be happier with it IMO, and you'll have tens of thousands of dollars less invested.  

[Flamdremon]

Mike can you go in depth for me with your idea? It sounds like something i might do.

[JR]

9 second quarter?

Gutted shell of a car?

I'm assuming you want to build a real life version of Toretto's 70 from F &F?

If you only want to drag race it I'll suggest buying an already built, former race car that's been back halved you can tune/tweak however you like. Chassis work isn't cheap. (No good work is, actually).

I have to ask, do you have experience drag racing or building drag cars? From the sound of your questions it seems like you're looking to jump into something brand new. If that's the case, I wouldn't start out with a 2 ton, 900hp anything. I'd start smaller, cheaper and slower and work up from there.

[Flamdremon]

Im new to building not racing. I drove my ex's dads full blown dragster 2 summers in a row and it went 7.9s  but yes i am new to the building scene and to ur other question fast and furious has nothing to do with it. Im going to go through with this no matter how long it takes to get there. But building shouldnt be TOO terrible i have quite a few friends who know a lot about it that will help me. I just thought ied get some expert advice from you guys before I go too far.

[Wicked72]

Stroke a 440 to 540+ then add a supercharger, I'd go pro charger from the super charger store. You'll be around 1400hp At around 14lbs boost. Full cage, 4 link, ford 9 inch rear. 727 trans from monster. Huge slicks, big gears. I skipped many details yes.  $75,000 all said a done? And alot faster then 9

[Mike DC]

   
Is this thing gonna be a street-driven car?

There are about 3 possible answers:


#1.  A true street car. 
This thing has windshield wipers.  The E-brake works.  It will not run 9s.

#2.  A claimed street car that isnt really one. 
It might have license plates & registration but it's a formality.  There are a lot of cars that claim to be cruisers that are really this. 

#3.  A true track-only car. 

[Flamdremon]

Whats the price difference going to be if i want it to be street legal or not?

[Wicked72]

What you ultimately want from this car? Over powered street car, street/strip, or race only?

[Flamdremon]

Ied like to be able to drag race it AND be able to drive it around but it depends on the price difference. If having it street legal is gonna 2x or 3x the price then maybe not

[303 Mopar]

Its not possible to have a nice streetable car that is also a top drag car too.  You will have a better street car that doesn't do great at the track, or a top drag car that after about 15 min you will hate driving around on the street.   

[Flamdremon]

Theres gotta be a way to get a 9 Second street car.

[ACUDANUT]

Im new to building not racing. I drove my ex's dads full blown dragster 2 summers in a row and it went 7.9s  but yes i am new to the building scene and to ur other question fast and furious has nothing to do with it. Im going to go through with this no matter how long it takes to get there. But building shouldnt be TOO terrible i have quite a few friends who know a lot about it that will help me. I just thought ied get some expert advice from you guys before I go too far.

Don't dragsters do like 4.0 sec. in the quarter mile ?

[Homerr]

If you're going to chop the hell out of a 70 Charger please consider doing it to a non-R/T car.

[Challenger340]

It would not hurt at this point in your planning stages, to google some of the many online Drag Race calculators,  MPH/E.T., H.P/Weight, etc.

Plug is some Vehicle W/Driver weights on the 1/4 Mile E.T range you wish to run, and at least get an idea of Engine requirements.
From there,
you will need to realize that the equipment necessary on the Vehicle, to support that power being able to run those E.T.'s comes into play.
Things like:
* a 4-Link Suspension to PLANT all the power to the tires
* Back-Half or tubbing the rear of the car, to get sufficient Balonies out back to Hook.
* 5500 stall Convertor and Tranzbrake(there is a direct correlation to the E.T. in the required 60/330 ft time)
* Fuel system front to back, Cooling system, Ignition system, 8 point RollBar and tie the unibody together with frame connectors, and on and on.

Long story short here....
Alot of the above can be made streetable, but "maintenance" becomes very expensive ?
For example: Coil over Race Shocks & Hyme ends were NOT designed for the rigors of street driving ? I suspect within a couple of thousand miles depending upon the roads they will all need replacement to stay safe ?

Starting from scratch with a B-Body ? Engine/Trans/Suspension & Vehicle upgrades ? I am thinking a guy could dump $75K just on the mechanical side all said and done ? with NO BODYWORK !

[Daytona R/T SE]

Build a Dart or other "A" body.

They're light weight, cheap and totally worthless for anything else.