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Non Rallye dash to rallye conversion?

Started by Vegas_Nick, January 01, 2017, 12:58:55 PM

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Vegas_Nick

How hard is the conversion? Would it take replacement of the entire dash? I am looking at some of the updated clusters out there but they are all the rallye style dash. The one that I have now is non-rallye.

Thanks!

BLK 68 R/T



BLK 68 R/T

I'm not sure on the 3rd gen charger. Hopefully someone with the knowledge will chime in.

E5 Charger

I'm doing the same thing on my 74, but using an original cluster. You don't need a new dash. You can replace the standard with the new cluster, but you will need a new wiper switch. I'm not sure about the headlight switch. And, will need new pulls for each switch. The only problem is the dash wire harness. The standard uses a circuit board and your new one will have separate wires for each bulb. I'm not sure how difficult this would be to rewire. I needed a new harness, so bought a rallye one.

Vegas_Nick

Quote from: E5 Charger on January 02, 2017, 11:44:28 PM
I'm doing the same thing on my 74, but using an original cluster. You don't need a new dash. You can replace the standard with the new cluster, but you will need a new wiper switch. I'm not sure about the headlight switch. And, will need new pulls for each switch. The only problem is the dash wire harness. The standard uses a circuit board and your new one will have separate wires for each bulb. I'm not sure how difficult this would be to rewire. I needed a new harness, so bought a rallye one.

Thanks man! I wanted to swap over to the Autometer gauges anyway with the Rallye cluster so I am no too worried about the wiring.

Nacho-RT74

are you talking about these clusters ?



Since you are making a custom aftermarket job, you can cut your existing wiring and modify it for the aftermarket setup. Of course, having a Rallye cluster already in car would be maybe a bit easier since won't need to hack up all the wiring, just maybe partially.

the 12 pin connector gets all the sources for them, depending on which gauges will you use on your setup

You get on the multipin:
-12 volts for voltage limiter, which won't be anymore for the voltage limiter, but a keyed ( on RUN ) 12 volts source, being a blue wire. You can spread that source to every gauge will need 12 volts to work
-Dimmer source for lighting. Same as above, spread it for every bulb source. Its an orange wire.
-Pilot turning lights. I don't think you'll be using it EXCEPT if you get gauges with this feature. These are tan and light green wires. There are some gauges with the pilot lights feature, including high beams and brake on same gauge.
-High beam pilot light... its a red wire... same as above
-Brake light... its a black wire coming from emergency brake pedal switch and also splitted into the prop valve into engine bay ( to indicate pressure failure ). Same as above, if you don't get a gauge with this feature, won't be used.
-Black ground wire... same as the 12 volts keyed source, you can spread it everywhere is required from the multipin conector
-Violet wire is the temp sender... will go to the temp gauge you select. This is a negative source.
-Gray wire is the oil sender... same as above to the respective gauge, also negative source, HOWEVER will need to consider the sender change, for a gauge kind, not idiot light
-Blue traced wire ( well I think this is traced, can't recall if the 12 volts one is the one traced ), fuel sneder, also negative. Need to consider the gauge meeting with the ohms rate for Mopar ( 10 to 70 ohms ). Same for all the gauges.


-Mostly sure you will get a voltimeter instead an ammeter ( althought I'm a fan of ammeter instead ). So will need to splice together the ammeter wires. These are not into the multipin conector. If getting an ammeter, follow the ammeter instructions. These can or not, be a full load or shunted system ( remote reading ). For the voltimeter, the 12 volts keyed wire can be the source. Remember this is a RUN circuit source.

As mentioned, the wiper switch is diff just because the shaft length. You will need to find the propper one for rallye cluster... or modify your one, shortening your existant switch. Its posible to make it, I did it once. DUNNO if the harness will reach the wiper plug to the other side. I think will do.

Headlight switch is the same, not a prob

Having a Rallye culster already on car makes this conversion a bit easier, but still some hacking job, meeting terminals with the gauges you select, and needing some more lighting sources for the gauges.

for the pilot lights you can use some pilot bulbs with bezels and insert them between the two big gauges blank space. ( if not using one of those gauges with the 4 pilot indicators in it )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Next problem will be the knobs and nuts for switches. These are diff from the standard dash. not easy to find, specially the wiper switch knob.

Dunno how the A/C-Heater control unit will attach to that cluster bezel.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Vegas_Nick

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 03, 2017, 12:11:53 PM
are you talking about these clusters ?



Since you are making a custom aftermarket job, you can cut your existing wiring and modify it for the aftermarket setup. Of course, having a Rallye cluster already in car would be maybe a bit easier since won't need to hack up all the wiring, just maybe partially.



Thanks man! Very informative!

Starting with this:

The wiring won't be too big of a deal. I'm an avionics guy by trade so wiring is what I love. If I can't find the correct switches, I won't sweat it too much. I'm looking at making an Arduino touch screen control for all the lighting and wipers any way.

Thank you again!

Nacho-RT74

you can also "fabricate" a male conector for the existant round multipin on harness and make a custom job without hack any wire... and easier to plug and play into the existant harness. I did it once on a custom dash for a 74 Dart of a friend of mine. Didn't cut any wire but used the existant terminals to plug in them all the wires for the aftermarket gauges. That allowed me to work all the wiring  attached to the cluster on bench, then plug it on the existant conector
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

well, actually what I did is get Molex kind plugs like these ( but 12 circuits )



and male terminals. The existant multipin conector use Molex female terminals. Removed from the existant round multipin and inserted into the new Molex plug. Then made the harness attached to cluster on bench and run it to the male molex plug... VOILA! cluster can be removed anytime you want without deal with every gauge individually and easir to work on it on bench getting wires at the right lenght and right splices everywhere. Cleaner and comfortably job

will need maybe more circuits depending on the gauges you will use. For example, an electronic tach, running wires allong the underdash harness

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Vegas_Nick

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 03, 2017, 08:21:59 PM
well, actually what I did is get Molex kind plugs like these ( but 12 circuits )



and male terminals. The existant multipin conector use Molex female terminals. Removed from the existant round multipin and inserted into the new Molex plug. Then made the harness attached to cluster on bench and run it to the male molex plug... VOILA! cluster can be removed anytime you want without deal with every gauge individually and easir to work on it on bench getting wires at the right lenght and right splices everywhere. Cleaner and comfortably job

will need maybe more circuits depending on the gauges you will use. For example, an electronic tach, running wires allong the underdash harness



Awesome! I have some of those in the bench stock!

Nacho-RT74

some round multipins are not exactly molex, although still round barrel kind terminals... check for that. My 74 it was ( it was standard cluster, now is rallye ), the 74 Dart I worked on, it was too. Mostly sure your one it is too. I have seen earliers being not Molex, but barrel kind terminals, kinda diff from Molex still pluging on same pins on cluster printed circuit board

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

This is the cluster I made for 74 Dart



and here is the rear view, with harness attached and the molex plug



even used same Mopar stock color codes for the harness attached
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Vegas_Nick

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 04, 2017, 12:43:45 PM
This is the cluster I made for 74 Dart



and here is the rear view, with harness attached and the molex plug



even used same Mopar stock color codes for the harness attached

Wow Nacho, that is beautiful work. Makes me more anxious to get going on this. I'm in the "make it reliable to drive daily" while I gather parts and pieces to continue the build.

Nacho-RT74

Nice your job will be on a 74! another 74 being saved ( I was watching your thread about it ).

I love resto-mods on non too much valuable cars, but easy to get them back to stock if wished. that's why I made the Dart cluster on that way. No hack on the stock wiring just replacing the round plug for the square plug, and the cluster was made on an extra bezel. The original one was saved.

also made a search for a nice indicator lights panel ( the gray stripe on top left corner ).

Unfortunatelly the Dart owner died on a motorcycle accident ( it was a very good friend of mine ) in february last year, and now the family is getting fight for the Dart, which is still not finished, although able to be driven. I won't help to finish the car if the family don't fix their internal problem.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Vegas_Nick

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 05, 2017, 11:06:18 AM
Nice your job will be on a 74! another 74 being saved ( I was watching your thread about it ).

I love resto-mods on non too much valuable cars, but easy to get them back to stock if wished. that's why I made the Dart cluster on that way. No hack on the stock wiring just replacing the round plug for the square plug, and the cluster was made on an extra bezel. The original one was saved.

also made a search for a nice indicator lights panel ( the gray stripe on top left corner ).

Unfortunatelly the Dart owner died on a motorcycle accident ( it was a very good friend of mine ) in february last year, and now the family is getting fight for the Dart, which is still not finished, although able to be driven. I won't help to finish the car if the family don't fix their internal problem.

I always hate hearing stuff like that. That is one reason that I have willed my radio collection (I restore/collect old tube radios from the 1920's through 1940's) to local non-profits.

But any way.. I have just ordered a cheapy set of VDO gauges for now while I save up the money and make the plan for the conversion to the Autometer dash. Thanks again for your insight!